Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting ELK 2014 Humble Pie

I am sitting down and putting my thoughts and pictures together from this years hunt, our first out west and first backpack hunt.
I hesitate to share. By some standards it was a complete failure, heck by most standards. But, the knowledge gained and time spent in the mountains was priceless. I will be going back each year from here on out.

If you remember (or care), the Original plan was as follows: 12 miles in from the truck for base-camp and bivy hunt out from there for two weeks. After careful consideration, that plan was amended to 6 miles in and bivy hunt for two weeks.
Well, as things go, our trailhead access was not what we thought it would be and the best laid plans of mice and men...you know the rest.

Day 1 - Arriving at the trailhead before sun up we were told that the road beyond where we were at now was �Really rough and would tear up your truck. Not passable.� Ahh, but we had prepared for that by hauling a 4-wheeler all the way from Kansas. Plan �B� was to shuttle people and equipment to the trail head about 5 miles away. 5 miles, three people at a time and equipment on a 4-wheeler, on a rough backroad, not very fun or easy. Enter Plan �C�, get at least half-way there and strike out on foot. Save as much exertion as possible.
By now it was noon. We had our party of seven and all the gear at the midway point to what we considered the start. Ruck up and go.

Immediately it was apparent that we had not prepared as individuals. The group naturally spread out and labored up the incline towards the goal. This was not going to be easy. About a mile in those at the front paused and waited for the group to re-assemble. This short stop will be known as: �Come to Jesus Meeting #1�. The weight of our gear, the altitude, the elevation gain and poor prep were apparent on us all. The solution was to shed weight and un-necessaries. Perhaps two weeks was too long. We dropped a weeks worth of food from the group and hung it up a tree. If we were to stay longer someone (the strongest of the bunch) would come back for it. This dropped weight off of some, but still people were reluctant to give up gear.

The march continued on.

Over the next mile and a half we paused reassembled and started again many times. Finally, we reached our trailhead about three o�clock. Paused for a group picture and decided to continue on to a small lake that was on the map and set up camp for the first night.

We had had our asses handed to us on the first day. And, as a final kick in the nuts, we reached the end of the road and found parked there a truck. Not a monster-truck-rock-crawler-beast of a truck...just a truck.

Day one was just over five miles (three of it on a 4-wheeler) and we were demoralized.

Road doesn't look that bad�but it got worse:


Some Scenery:




Camp #1 location:






As time permits toady I will get all this put together and posted. Perhaps it will save somebody else some pain�although I had to learn for myself.

-Dustin

Day 2- After a cold night where I think all of us had a touch of Mountain sickness (Had to force yourself to eat and drink and had a constant feeling of nausea) we got around the next morning and had what we will call �Come to Jesus Meeting #2�. We prepared poorly as a group. Inventory was taken and we had too many duplicates of gear.

Did the group really need four hatchets?

�Ounces add up to pounds!� was the new mantra. Once again gear was shed and stashed for the return trip.

Today was 4 miles to the pass, a 2000ft elevation gain, and back down into the valley. After day one, it was questionable whether it could be done. I dropped my Ed T stove (2.5lbs as our coldest night was behind us) and my flip-flops (which I later regretted). The remaining food was divided up among us and we set out around 8:30 with a feeling of dread.

The natural separation of the group occurred again on the hike up the mountainside. Up,up,up was all that was in front of us. Every bend and switchback just seemed to lead to another. Walking and pausing the front group of three made the pass at about 1:45 had a lunch, changed socks and needed water. Once the pass was made (elevation 9753) and the hunting grounds were in sight morale was high.

We started the descent down into the valley.

Having to stop at the first water source, we refilled our camelbacks. Taking a rest and feeling good knowing that the hardest was behind us, mother nature reminded us that we were not �out of the woods yet�.

Sitting in a hairpin-turn of the trail with bare mountainside above us, Craig looked up and said, �Look at that f@#%ing bear!� I turned to see a bear running down the creek right at us. ~50 to 60 yards and closing. Fast. Turning to grab the pistol that was still on his pack, I just watched it coming. As Craig turned back with pistol in hand the bear veered off at about 30 yards and angled away from us. You could hear its paws strike the ground as it ran it was so close. All I can remember looking at, as it ran by, was that hump on the shoulders. It was a grizzly.

We sat to let the bear clear the country and let the sickness in our stomaches settle. We waited about and hour.

I think the bear was running anyway. It was not a charge. There were some sheep hunters in the area and perhaps they had bumped it. We just happened to be on the same path as its escape route. As it came down the hill it saw us or winded us, and adjusted accordingly. It was somewhat reassuring know that the bear had the chance and wanted nothing to do with us. But it was also unnerving seeing how fast it was, how big it was, and how quickly a person could be in trouble. I had bear-spray and no pistol. I will not go back without a pistol again. It will just make me feel better.

We ended up sitting long enough that two more from the group caught up to us and we could see the others on top of the pass. We headed down into the valley to look for flat ground to make camp. We were very �bear aware� the rest of the trip.

Day 2 ended with 7.5 miles on the books and finding flat ground at about dark.

We scrambled to set up camp and anxiously awaited our last two party members to arrive. It was a joyous reunion when they did. Before we were completely set up three hunters with horses showed up and asked to set up next to us. Apparently, this was there usual spot. There was no animosity, and over the next few days we got to know them fairly well.

Pass Pictures:






Some sheep at the pass:

Dustin, thank you for sharing your story. It's been a fascinating read so far with some great photography. I'm anxiously awaiting the rest of the story!! Some good lessons to be learned for sure!!

Eric

Day 3 - Day three started with a morning chat around the fire to discuss our hunting and scouting plans. Tomorrow was opening day. The walk in sucked, and it was questionable to whether or not we could get an elk out. Only a few of us might be capable, but that would mean multiple trips out and back to help.

The pain of yesterday was still too fresh.

As if to test us, someone said, �Look at that elk�. On the hillside across from camp (~206 lasered yards) stood a lone 4x4 elk. It watched us a few minutes and then made its way into the timber. The new question was, �Would you shoot it if it is there tomorrow?� Some said yes, some said no. Before it was over the consensus was that a trophy would only be worth the pain of packing it back out. Also, the point was brought up about having a carcass that close to camp, maybe not a good idea in bear country.

We set out to scout and find some fishable water. One of our party had come along to tend camp and fish, so we wanted to get him on some water if possible. The amount of country is enormous. We saw some sign on the trail, but it was overwhelming for us flat-landers. How do you even hunt this? Emerging from the woods we came to a few clearings that we decided to set up on in the morning. It would be a start.

We never did find water to fish on. It was all to shallow. We ventured as far as we dared and headed back to camp. Coming across two sheep hunters we were greeted with,�You must be the Kansas Guys.� That is how we were known to anybody that met us.

Backcountry word travels fast. Especially about silly greenhorns.

Returning to camp early after noon we set up for opening morning. We put another 7 miles on today. We would hunt in two groups of two. Our camp steward would stay behind with a guy that still didn�t feel well and one that got blistered up on the way in. They needed to get better before we could head out and agreed to take a down day or two. We would each set on opposite ends of the meadow till after sunrise and then still hunt around, basically making it up as we went.

The fire was built up for the night and there was excitement and dread about tomorrow. We still weren�t sure if we wanted to get something, and most did not.

One mean-looking scouting party:


Where to start?








An old cabin we found off the trail a ways. I wonder how long it had been there and who used it?

Weren't you the guy asking for elk hunting tips few months back? I wish you the best of luck and can't wait to read some more up dates. Beautiful country out there.
I don't know how long you have to hunt, but I would shoot any legal bull I see my first elk hunt. You can't eat them horns! plus younger bull tastes better, On public land, you just never know if you'll come across more animals or not. If you're complaint about packing out an animal...I rather pack out 300 lbs vs 400. to each his own.
Hopefully the info we gave you was good, but nothing like trial and error.
There is nothing like elk hunting, you're ruined.

I'm enjoying your thread especially how far you planned to backpack hunt for elk. I try to explain to new elk hunters that too many miles from the road on a BP hunt can be a major problem if you actually kill.

Packing out 200lb of tender meat is a lot more fun than packing out 300lb of shoe leather with bigger antlers.

Day 4 Opening Day - On the trail before light headed towards the meadow. The bear encounter fresh in my mind, we made our way towards the meadow. Reaching our destination we went our separate ways.

Sitting with our backs to a tree my partner and I waited. Waited past daylight and saw nothing. So, getting restless we worked our way up the mountain. Craig led me through some sketchy stuff. Rock climbing hand over hand. The idea was to get around and see into the next valley. It didn�t work out, but the view was nice.

We made our way back and met our other group. No sign, no animals, no sound. We looked at the map and split again. This time heading east. Slowly we made our way up the trail gaining more elevation with every step. At one point we stopped and set up to do some cow calls. A shot in the dark. Not long after a few calls a mule deer doe showed up. She was very curious, not sure what we were. She watched, circled and winded us, but still did not run. After about ten minutes she walked off into the woods. It was a fun encounter. Gave us some hope.

We got up and made it to the end of the trail which dumped into another meadow. Ate some lunch, let things settle and decided to try some more calling with a bugle mixed in. The wind was in our face and we heard a ruckus behinds us. Something winded us. Turning around there was our doe again.

Something interesting we noticed: the woods were alive. Birds, squirrels, noise and movement. Once we hit the bugle it all went dead. You could hear a pin drop.

Now, earlier we had heard a two shots soon after we separated from the other pair. We were sure they had shot something. Every possible scenario went through our mind. Trophy elk. Raghorn. Cow Elk. Mule Deer. Bear Encounter. Clean miss. Wounded animal. Dinner bell for bears. We thought of it all, and it was on our minds. After the meadow we headed back to camp to see what happened.

The trip back was hot. All I had on was a short sleeve base-layer,orange vest and day pack. I was sweating horrible. That brought up the subject of �Could we even get meat out before spoilage in this heat?�. Based on our two days in and now being 11 miles from the truck; we felt the answer was no.

Back at camp we found the other hunters. The shots were not them. It was a relief. Our steward had a fancy watch that said it was 83 degrees out. Way too hot. So began another quorum. Can we do this even if we see something shootable?

Day 4 ended with 9.5 miles and a lot of question marks.

Some of the hunting grounds:

Day 5 - Our evening before was spent around the fire discussing our options. Morale was low, we were overwhelmed. True, we had asked hunting advise, but that was long forgotten. Each night we met the other hunters as they came into camp and exchanged sightings. No animals were to be found. They had seen a few cows (two and a calf), a sheep and a few bears but nothing else in the three days they had been there. They said, �Sometimes the Elk are just not here.�

We made the decision that we were in over our heads. With the lack of animals,lack of sign,the heat and the looming 11 mile pack out, we made the decision to take a rest day, bum around camp and head out the following day. It was (and still is) a hard pill to swallow.

The day was spent preparing gear, being lazy and hydrating. We also tried to eat like kings. Some of us were just now getting a normal appetite back. I went up to the hillside beside camp and did some glassing in the morning, nothing too strenuous. Never did see anything. Sitting there, looking down on it all it was picturesque. The tents in the valley, smoke rising from the fire, and one of the guys broke a fly pole out and was playing around. I realized then that this trip was a dream come true, no matter the outcome.

Some rain moved in in the early evening which made things a little uncomfortable. I was worried about the trail condition for the way out. Also, the sheep hunters we met earlier in the week stopped by on the way out. They had seen no animals, and had bear in the camp the night before. That did not set well with us Kansas boys. Although we had been very diligent about keeping a �clean camp�. Hanging our food, eating away from camp and burning trash. That first bear encounter still was in our minds.

It rained sporadically throughout the night. Sometimes hard. It was our goal to be packed up and on our way out by 7 a.m. Thinking it may take the whole day to reach the peak and we may yet again have to divide the trip into two legs with an overnight on the way out.

Day 5 was 0 miles and a long day of introspection in camp.

Camp Views:

Last Day - Up early and packed, we hit the trail by 6:45 this time we stayed together as a group and drove for the top of the pass. Estimates of our time varied widely. At one point I thought I might loose a friendship on the way to the top. But, we made it. And in good time. All the uphill was over by 9:30. Spirits high, we headed down the mountain knowing we would make the truck by nightfall.

One thing I realized though. We could have gotten an elk out. True, our packs were lighter, but only two miles up at a snails pace and the rest downhill...it could have been done physically. But, would it have spoiled? I think in the end we out-thought ourselves.

Stopping at the first campsite we picked up our stashed gear rested a minute and moved on. It was around noon now. We did meet several hunters on the way in. Some on horseback and some on foot. It looked like they were day-trip only due to the lack of gear. All had stories of bears and no game. At on point an older gentleman asked, �Did you dance with the bears?� Reminded me of Jeremiah Johnston - You skin Griz? We also met the game warden on the way out and had to show our tags. No big deal.

At mile eight we were back to the four-wheeler and ready to walk the last leg while the gear was ferried down. Luck would have it a couple of guys and a truck were there, willing to wait and take us down.

**To a person, everyone we met and passed were as nice as could be, always willing to help. It was amazing.**

About 2:30 in the afternoon we were back at the truck. Our elk adventure was over for 2014. Some have expressed they are willing to return, some not so much. I will be going back every year, God willing. Regardless, a lot of knowledge was gained. I have always been one to learn things the hard way (my parents will back that up). I will follow up with my thoughts and gear reviews over time. What worked and what didn�t.

Thanks for the listen�.


Oh yeah, we stopped for some trout fishing on the way home.

That was great read buddy. I admire you for being so brutally honest about your trip.

PM me if you ever want any additional elk intel off-line.

Dave

Really great reading and some cool picts - thanks for sharing.

You're in SE Kansas? I've spent a fair amount of time in that neck of the woods.

Great read. Very similar to my experiences in the Gila Wilderness.

It is what it is. We had no idea what we were getting into, and were not ready as individuals and as a group. I researched and "prepared" for 9 months. None of it was like being there.



I am about an hour south of Topeka.

+1, and it wasn't a wasted trip because you learned from it. You've got to start somewhere.

It's easy to Monday-morning quarterback, but for what it's worth you might consider the following advice. It wasn't long ago that I was in your shoes and I like to think I've learned a few things. Mostly from my mistakes!!

1) You don't need to go 8 miles or 11 miles and up over a pass to get away from most hunters. My buddy and I went in 3-4 miles this year in a heavily-hunted unit and found our animals and few people. Outfitters with horses generally go in further than backpackers, and by going in that far you start bumping into them, as you saw.

2) Elk hunting is all about hunting where they are, and not committing to a place where they're not. Sounds obvious, but that was your main problem. Always have a plan B and C, as in other places to go if your first choice turns out to be a dry hole. Keep moving until you find them; plan on not settling down at a camp until you do. You'd have been better off going in a few miles, checking it out, and then pulling up stakes and going somewhere else. That's much harder to do 10 miles from the truck than 3 or 4.

3) If you can do some pre-season scouting trips, by all means do it. Finding good places to hunt is more important than anything else IMHO.

4) Do some more "shake-down" trips to sort out what you need and what you don't. Most people bring too much gear when they start out, especially food and clothes; I know I did. These trips will help you sort out what you really need and what you don't. Be ruthless in paring down your gear.

5) Work on lightening up your heaviest pieces of gear, one at a time. Tent, bag, pad, and pack.

6) This is just my way of thinking, but that many people in a hunting party is too many. Too much coordination, waiting around, and futzing with gear is the result, and frustration for those who have to wait. You'd be better off splitting up and going to two different places, that way at least you'd have good information(to use next year) on two places, not just one.

7) Conditioning is a tough one. I've run into that problem, and it's no fun. You need a meeting #3, let everyone know that now that the physical part is understood by everyone, it's up to everyone to put in the work or stay home. It's not fair for one or two guys to hold up the group.

Not trying to be critical, just trying to help. Sounds like you have the determination to come back and do better, and that's 95% of it.

Good luck.

Elk in Montana vs deer in Kansas is night and day.
Sounds like you gave it your best effort and that alone is rewarding. I hunt hard when I'm out there so if I don't get lucky I can come home and have no regrets.
Now you know better for next year and even then you'll learn some more. Hope things work out with your boys.

We discovered early seven was too many, but for a first trip I guess we thought strength in numbers. Four would be a max in my mind. A couple of guys splitting the load could go pretty lightweight and fast.

Next year I want to do a spring bear / scouting trip for the '15 Elk season. The plan is not to loose the gains and keep working.

I went in at about 68 lbs with all my gear (including rifle, binos,and 14 days of food, etc...) some were pushing 80 I have no doubt. We just didn't work together. I know where I can improve and will work on it this off-season.

I admire you for the honesty and also for doing something like that that you've never done. The experience gained is priceless compared to some on 24HC who think they are pros by reading.

You actually did it. And for that, great job.

I may be wrong, but I take it you guys were navigating once you set up camp with simple topo maps? How did you guys prep for where exactly you were camping/hunting?

Wow. 68 lbs is a lot of gear, and I bet a lot of that was food. If it were me, not knowing if the chosen location would bear fruit I'd take 4-5 days worth of food and go in half the distance. If the hunting's good, you can always hike out empty and bring in more food; if it's no good, pull up stakes and go to plan B. Just as a data point, my load not counting the rifle was 40 lbs. And that was with a two-man tent, stove, cartridge, and water filter (common gear).

This is very true. Often, you need to go only farther than a day hunter will go, usually not more than a couple miles, a little more or less depending on terrain.