Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Synthetic Motor Oil

amen

I don't go a long on oil changes but I do add some ZDDP about half way through my oil change interval


sold my 98n Infiniti at 320,000 and it's still going.

All I use is that expensive Super Tech full synthetic from Walmart made by Warren Performance Products (WWP) on bottom of plastic jug. $17 for 5 quart container. Works for me.

Well damn. 7 pages and the debate rages on. It looks like the 'fire is split as well. I guess I could be a good son and tell Dad he wins. He loves to tell me "I told you so". But then that would be giving in. He also taught me to "stand your ground"! Ha! I could always punt...

Conventional motor oils have made some significant improvements in recent years--the difference between conventional vs most synthetics is currently much smaller.

Ya' got a choice: Conventional motor oils carry heat away better than synthetics. Synthetics have less friction.

There are several oils out there labeled as "Full Synthetic" that are not pure synthetic. Mobil One is among those. It is highly refined with synthetic packages added and meets the Group IV requirements here in the US, but allegedly not in other countries like Japan.

Changing the oil frequently is best.......

Casey

In the eastern half of the US, Super Tech full synthetic is manufactured in the same plant as Mobil One. That doesn't mean it has the same additive packages though.

A while back Super Tech beat Mobil One in one of those internet friction tests. I can't speak to the veracity of the test though.....

I use both Mobil One and Super Tech in various vehicles.

Casey

Mobil one, Napa platinum. You can switch to synthetic no matter how many miles on the motor. But as noted earlier may have oil leaks.

This......

Many new vehicles come with synthetic from the factory now. My new Toyota does.

I've used it in a Ford Sport Trac since the vehicle was new and now has 190k+ miles with nothing done to the engine. The F150 before that had sythetic it's full life until I sold it with 170K. I won't use anything else.

But the hunting is amazing. Id settle for a job that lets me sit on the couch after -25.

If ya want to,, a guy can use deisel motor oil in a gas motor. They have the S rating on all the deisel oils I've seen. Has a bit better additive package for the guys who like to extend their oil change intervals a bit without going synthetic. Not that I care.

Already admitted to being a Mobil One user in all of my vehicles...but I end up doing maintenance on other vehicles that usually belong to single mothers, with kids in our scout troop...

Conventional oil has come a long way, that is for sure over the last 15 to 20 years...and if filters are changed routinely, and not ran over 5K ( not talking trucks with huge filters) conventional oil can be changed at 10,000 mile intervals ( or under 12 months)...

As said by Ihookem, using Diesel rated oil is even better than gas conventional oil....I did run an experiment on my older Camry, and ran Mobil Diesel 15W40 for 20,000 miles, with filter changes at 3300 miles....sent it away to be analyzed and it came back as still usable..lot of that is highway miles just to point that out...took the valve cover off and looked at the head... it was not built up with Sludge...at all...

regardless of how often, oil is changed or not, I think the key for longer drains is that filter change more frequently than 5K miles.....I run Purolators, which are $3.25 at Walmart...

even tho I am sure most folks will have zero problems running regular oil in an engine and getting 250 K out of a motor, I still think when push comes to shove, synthetic will still run longer between drains, and it will also still make an engine last longer than conventional oil... which is longer than MOST folks will run a vehicle.. and if you are in a snow belt, your vehicles body will go before the engine ever will....

but synthetics still, are quicker to lube the top end of an engine as the temps get colder, especially way below zero...

they will also keep lubing better than conventional oil when the temp gets real hot out...

and I'll admit, I'd trust a synthetic 0W20 or 5W20 long before I'd trust a conventional oil of that weight, when outside temps are a 100 degrees, and you are sitting in traffic, with your A/C cranked...

and if you are using a conventional oil, if you add a quart of synthetic of the same weight, it will definitely enhance the conventional oils abilities to protect, especially under load, high heat and low temp starting...

but if you are running a synthetic oil, adding a quart of conventional oil, is not going to enhance a darn thing...

the differences in cost, and drain intervals.. one has to figure out where they want to spend their money....I admit, the guys who run synthetic, yet change it every 3,000 miles, might as well be running conventional oil...all you are doing is wasting your money....

but hey, I am talking from the point of a guy running Toyotas.. not a super car, or something exotic...

but there also has to be a reason more and more engine manufacturers are specifying synthetic oil, vs conventional....

and a definite reason Aircraft engine manufacturers recommend synthetic vs conventional...

It was in the 20's the other morning and one of the old JD loaders spun over pretty slow.... Good batteries, just always been a toad when it comes to starting even remotely chilly.



Long story short it gets started every morning during the winter and we don't have a heated shop.


Very curious if it would hurt to switch to synthetic during the cold months?

Been running 15-40 Rotella in the summer and 10-30 during winter. Currently we know it's time to change the oil as soon as it shows low on the dipstick. Typically it takes 100 hours before it burns any oil.


Easier cold weather starting would be really, really nice.

I was running mobil one but switched to napa brand synthetic you can get it with a NAPA gold oil filter cheaper than the mobil one oil alone..........NAPA oil is made by Ashland oil refinery the same people who make Valvoline......

I run Mobil 1 in my F150 (190k miles); just changed the GF's Expedition oil to high mileage Mobil 1 (180k, 10k overdue on the last change and ~3 quarts low - yikes!) 5w-20 in both; 10w-40 in the CJ7's 258, usually Pennzoil, but I hate that motor and really want to do a V8 swap.

Sure ya can Sam...

but if you are a fence hanger, I can pass on from many years dealing with MN temps...mixing something like a couple of quarts of Mobil One OW30 or so, with regular 10W30, will definitely lower its pour point, or the temps it will crank...

ever tried an oil dipstick heater?

I use to have a VW Diesel Wagon back in the early 80s...before I switched to synthetic....It said to use 10W30 in the winter...but it had to sit out ( so my wife could have the garage for her car).. so I got it an oil dipstick heater from NAPA, a Battery Blanket and an Oil Frost Plug Heater... all went into a 3 prong plug in front..

even at 30 below, or colder ( with a 70/30 mix of Diesel # One and Diesel #2) I'd hit the glow plug on that little buzzard first thing in the morning at 6AM, and it never failed to fire up, no matter how slow she cranked....I'd let it run an hour, while I had breakfast and took a shower, then unplugged it and headed off to work... where at times, it was cold enough, I just locked it up and let it idle all day...

The coldest it ever had to set out was one time at 50 below up in North Dakota ( according to the weather service report), but those heaters, still allowed it to fire up...

synthetic added to the mix would have made it even easier...

that oil dipstick heater, was only $4 or $5 in those days...

Valvoline Synthetic is a group 3 oil, as is NAPA which is the same oil...

"My GMC DuraMax diesel truck is also fitted with a dual bypass oil filter system. The extra filtration does not necessarily protect the engine, rather it protects the oil, limiting the amount of abrasive particulates." [b][/b]

"The extra filtration does not necessarily protect the engine"

What? What's exactly what a bypass filter does. It filters out the particles that are large enough to cause wear. I put a bypass filter on my Dodge diesel when I switched to Amsoil at 40K. I also added a FILTERMAG RA365 at the same time. I wish I had put the FILTERMAG on it when it was new but I didn't know such a thing existed. It should have trapped some of the ferrous metal during the break in. I used synthetic oil on my old '78 Chevy PU that I drove from 1978 to 1999 (21 years). I sold it to a friend who is still using it as his deer lease truck.

I only read about half of this thread but change intervals are the most important as long as the correct viscosity is used. Oil gets "dirty" especially in rural and dusty condition before it wears out. You city slickers may see a benefit from syn oils. I use dino oil and change it depending on the conditions with great luck. Only exception is my new truck which requires a blend to keep the warranty valid. That's my advice running ATV's to cars to heavy equipment over the years.

If there is electric near the tractor, this is your huckleberry, Sam.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/magnetic-heater

I try to make sure all of the single moms are serviced with the natural stuff.