Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats Stiller Switch Barrel?

Anybody running one? Should be easy with the pinned lug, but it only has ONE pin, which concerns me. Thinking about a Pacnor Remnut in 308 and 243.

I've had no trouble with no pins by bedding the lug tight with clearance only at the bottom. Screw the barrel on to the action and leave it a quarter turn from tight with just enough wiggle room for the lug to spin on the barrel. Dropped the barreled action into the stock. The free play in the lug allows you to work it in. Tighten the action screws. Tighten the barrel to the action using a barrel vice mounted just forward of the stock forend and rear entry action wrench.

I have a single pin Holland lug on my Mike Bryant built switch barrel. No issues in with changing bbls.

THX to both Mr Smiths. I'll roll with it as is.

just get a BAT machine or defiance deviant and forget about weather or not the recoil lug is pinned. me personally I think its too much of a pain to change out your setup like that.

There is absolutely nothing to it. It is as easy as changing a scope.

[video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V_Ou4VPLjJ4[/video]

[video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=IYQ-bNDgf2M[/video]

Looks easy. I'm thinking of a Rem-nut Pacnor so I'll have to remove the stock. I have an H&S torque wrench for that. I'm going 308/243 and I'll just buy guages.

If using a nut you cant use the bedding for alignment so you better make certain the lug is aligned properly beforehand. With a nut two pins might help though I have no experience with it. The rear entry action wrench and barrel vice is so easy I would forgoe the nut.

I just finished a couple of builds set up like this.

One is built on a Shilen DGR action (Stiller Predator with Savage Small Shank barrel threads). The other is a Stiller Predator with a Pac-nor barrel nut.

For both of these I wrapped the edges of the recoil lugs with about 8 wraps of masking tape. This way if there is a slight change in recoil lug position it should still fit, and be snug on the backside where it matters.

Thanks for posting the videos. I have been wondering how complex it was to change out a barrel.

Which barrel vice do yall use?

Calvin

Are you saying you leave the tape on the sides of the lug?

Whose stock is that on the Stiller? Greybull?

Just for bedding purposes I put the tape on the edges. Then take it off for actual use.

Stock is an older Bell and Carlson M40 with butthook. Not sure if they still make it or not.

I run a Stiller with a one pin lug and switch back and forth between my .260 barrel and .308 barrel with no problems. Mike Bryant built my rig and the recoil lug only bears on the rear surface, not sides front or bottom. Only takes a couple of minutes to do with a good action wrench and barrel vice.

John

Tack and Hondo, many thx.

I have a lathe and do my own rebarreling. For Remingtons I use a wheeler action wrench.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/71...gton-700-savage-110?cm_vc=ProductFinding

To keep the recoil lug aligned I place feeler gauges on each side of the lug recess machined into the wrench when tightening the barrel in the action.

I use a barrel vise with copper inserts made from copper ground wire. Any slippage marks on barrel can easily be removed with bore tech eliminator. see pic below