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Campfire Outfitter
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I bought a 700 on a WEB site. The stock is glued to the receiver. Looks like epoxy. The after market trigger is set so that the firing pin moves rapidly forward if: 1. The safety is on, 2. the trigger is pulled, 3. the safety is pushed off.
I've mulled over options... Would like to save the stock, it is a nice looking stock. I may have access to liquid nitrogen and am considering submerging the metal into the nitrogen.
Anyone have a better idea?
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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If it is well and truly epoxied into the stock, first step is to sharpen the hatchet...
Heat is a great softener of epoxy. I would try heating a large old fashioned copper soldering iron and holding it to the metal, repeating often enough to try to sink enough heat into it to soften the epoxy. If that doesn't work, aim the hatchet right amidships on the butt stock...
How about not chambering a round until ready to shoot, even when hunting? Would be one way to get around the malfunctioning safety.
Last edited by gnoahhh; 12/15/14.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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A friend builds BR rifles and commonly glues in actions.
Puts them in a chest freezer overnight then gives them a good whack with a mallet to loosen them up.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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It possible that it was epoxy bedded, a release agent was used, but it was never broke loose for the first time.
I'd try just traditional methods of breaking it loose, first, before resorting to extremes.
What have you tried so far to break it loose?
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Campfire Outfitter
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Sounds like the saftey is working "properly" to me! That's how most Remmy triggers come from the factory . . .
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Most of the Remington triggers are fine. I firmly believe the issue with their triggers is the tolerances were too wide and if all the tolerances added up in the wrong direction then there was a problem. However, in this case it is an aftermarket trigger. I think Timney, but am not sure as I can't view it as good as I would like. I think someone bought an aftermarket trigger adjusted it to several ounces then glued the action in. Having said that the way I have normally tried to remove glass bedded barreled actions is by gripping the stock firmly and slapping the barrel (close to the end of the stock) on a flat wooden surface. I'll try following gnoahhh's & 284luvr's recommendations. Since I live in SD, I probably could just set it outside overnight Won't need a freezer. Also have soldering guns. Thanks.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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freezer over night and a good whack with a wooden mallet and the epoxy with have to be buffed or ground off the action. I used to bed some of my Varmint rifles this way back in the 70's
A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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Campfire Regular
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Dang that sucks, did you know it was glued before you bought it? If you did i hope you got a good deal on it.
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Nothing was mentioned. Bought it at Gunbroker from a pawn shop. I understand that buying things on-line (especially from pawn shops) often is like buying a pig in a poke. Most of the time things work out.
The worst deal I ever made though was from a pawn shop that had just started selling guns on Gunbroker. They got the worst rating from me. The Marlin 336 35 Rem rifle was covered with light rust, the blueing was sanded, the wood had been sanded below the metal. The cartridges wouldn't feed from the magazine. The picture they had on Gunbroker was very poor. I made a big mistake on that one. Also, they would not answer any correspondance. Not all pawn shops are bad, but I am much more careful about dealing with pawn shops any more. I've bought some guns from pawn shops that were good deals and will continue to deal with them.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Campfire Regular
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The SOP for removing a glued in action is to heat the action carefully with a heat gun and then push/pry the action out of the stock. You need to get it pretty (couple hundred degrees) hot but it won't affect the finish or steel. The heat softens the epoxy's grip on the action and it is a less violent method than whacking with a hammer and breaking something you didn't mean to. Poke around at 6BR.com or benchrest.com for more detailed info.
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The SOP for removing a glued in action is to heat the action carefully with a heat gun and then push/pry the action out of the stock. You need to get it pretty (couple hundred degrees) hot but it won't affect the finish or steel. The heat softens the epoxy's grip on the action and it is a less violent method than whacking with a hammer and breaking something you didn't mean to. Poke around at 6BR.com or benchrest.com for more detailed info. That sounds like excellent advice. Would you use propane torch or pewrhaps something else?
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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I went to benchrest.com and the suggestion there was to use the wife's iron. Thanks
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Campfire Tracker
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I accidentally glued one in a number of years ago. I ended up placing it metal side down on a gas space heater. When the metal got too hot to touch, I picked it up with a rag and gave the barrel a couple of whacks with a rawhide mallet. Came out easy enough.
molɔ̀ːn labé skýla
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I've also used a heat gun, they're not very expensive, to heat the metal and stock. Wasn't too long before the action could be pulled from the stock.
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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I've also used a heat gun, they're not very expensive, to heat the metal and stock. Wasn't too long before the action could be pulled from the stock. Harbor Freight sells one that can be bought for 15 bucks. Even less with their easy to get 20% off coupon. http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
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The use of heat to break a bond between epoxy and metal is effective but hazardous to your stocks health.
You can break down the bonds between layers of laminate as well as the bond between metal and laminate.
Use heat at your own risk.
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Campfire Tracker
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I'd use an iron and heat just the metal rather than a torch or heat gun that will also heat the stock
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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I'd use an iron and heat just the metal rather than a torch or heat gun that will also heat the stock Assuming they are in contact, if you heat the metal, you are also heating the stock adjacent to the metal. Heat sufficient to soften one layer of cured resin is not likely to leave adjacent layers of fabric / resin unaffected. I learned this from by trying to release metal molds from lay-ups in boat building. Have seen it happen with both epoxy & polyester resins. I am not saying that this approach cannot be used - only that it can have unintended consequences which can be difficult or impossible to reverse. I would exhaust all other possibilities before resorting to heat.
Last edited by OregonCoot; 12/17/14.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Sorry, but wood is a pretty fair insulator and it would take nearly ridiculous heat to have any real impact and it would be shallow.
Not that you cannot do it, but the action would be free and smoking LONG before serious damage was done to the stock.
And I have removed a bunch of them with heat.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Sorry, but wood is a pretty fair insulator and it would take nearly ridiculous heat to have any real impact and it would be shallow.
Not that you cannot do it, but the action would be free and smoking LONG before serious damage was done to the stock.
And I have removed a bunch of them with heat. Assuming the stock is wood, I would agree with you - heat works fine and you would really have to go over the top to do any serious damage. If the stock is a quality resin / fabric laminate, than I would tread carefully with heat.
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