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Just curious, if you put an after-market trigger in a Browning, would it be a reliable rifle? While I don't think it should be necessary to replace the trigger in a new rifle, it seems to be a common practice with Vanguards and Remington 700's, so why not a Browning?
He who joyfully marches in rank and file has already earned my contempt. He has been given a large brain by mistake, since for him the spinal cord would suffice.
- Albert Einstein
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You build your resume with every post... Keep it up. You have been given lots of hints and you missed them all.
Congrats!
No, I am simply going by what you said.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Tracker
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You never put oil in a trigger. You do if your so concerned with rust. Your "anti corrosion" ingredient in lighter fluid is an oil
Last edited by Snyper; 02/07/15.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Outfitter
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Is the Browning trigger that has problems the same one they put in Winchesters now???
Its all right to be white!! Stupidity left unattended will run rampant Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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You never put oil in a trigger. You do if your so concerned with rust. Your "anti corrosion" ingredient in lighter fluid is an oil You were talking about oiling the trigger, as in introducing regular oil, be it Rem Oil, CLP, whatever, into the trigger to prevent corrosion. What I said was vastly different. Naphtha is not really oil in the sense of they way you are using it. And it is the DRY naphtha that prevents the corrosion. it displaces the water and doesn't allow it to penetrate the pores of the metal. You no that is different from what you were referring to as oiling a trigger, but I bet you wont admit it. If you allow actual oil in your trigger group, you will experience issues with gumming and grime long before you would have had issues from rust.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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You never put oil in a trigger. You do if your so concerned with rust. Your "anti corrosion" ingredient in lighter fluid is an oil Congrats, a new bullet point for your resume. I can lead you to water but clearly it is going to be harder to make you think.
Last edited by Sitka deer; 02/07/15.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Congrats, a new bullet point for your resume.
I can lead you to water but clearly it is going to be harder to make you think. No, you're just trying to turn the conversation away from the facts and make it about me
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Regular
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I sell firearms at a very large establishment. We sell S2's, AB3's and XBolt's. I own several S2's and like them. I do not own any Browning rifles but own Browning shotguns which are outstanding. I expected the Browning rifles to be better quality than the S2. The AB3 is definitely not and the XBolt doesn't seem to be either. On the other hand I sell a lot of both models of Browning to people that already own one and love them.
Don't roll those bloodshot eyes at me.
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You no that is different from what you were referring to as oiling a trigger, but I bet you wont admit it. If you allow actual oil in your trigger group, you will experience issues with gumming and grime long before you would have had issues from rust. There won't be any issues with "gumming and grime" if you clean it often before reoiling If RUST is the problem, oil is the solution It doesn't have to be dirty 90 wt gear oil to do the job The first ingredient in lighter fluid is an "oil": Light Hydrotreated Distillate
Last edited by Snyper; 02/07/15.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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You no that is different from what you were referring to as oiling a trigger, but I bet you wont admit it. If you allow actual oil in your trigger group, you will experience issues with gumming and grime long before you would have had issues from rust. There won't be any issues with "gumming and grime" if you clean it often before reoiling If RUST is the problem, oil is the solution It doesn't have to be dirty 90 wt gear oil to do the job The first ingredient in lighter fluid is an "oil": Light Hydrotreated Distillate Actually, no it is not an oil. Distillates are light hydrocarbons and evaporate readily (in the case of lighter fluid) and are not as viscous as oils. Oiling a trigger is a recipe for bad things. There are MANY better ways to prevent rust than oil.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Tracker
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Oiling a trigger is a recipe for bad things.
There are MANY better ways to prevent rust than oil. According to you RUST is the problem, not too much oil
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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No dog in this fight, and I admittedly live in an mostly arid climate------------the other end of the spectrum from SE AK, but I use CorrosionX in my triggers that see bad weather. I occasionally flush 'em clean with starting fluid then replace the C-X. Not sure if C-X qualifies as an oil or what, but it seems kind of caustic and very effective. I can't recall ever testing it in SUB-zero temps, but when it's that cold, I'm not worried about rust. Degreasing only takes a minute.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. --Winston Churchill
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Oiling a trigger is a recipe for bad things.
There are MANY better ways to prevent rust than oil. According to you RUST is the problem, not too much oil Have at it then... You obviously know more than everybody else combined...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Tracker
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You no that is different from what you were referring to as oiling a trigger, but I bet you wont admit it. If you allow actual oil in your trigger group, you will experience issues with gumming and grime long before you would have had issues from rust. There won't be any issues with "gumming and grime" if you clean it often before reoiling If RUST is the problem, oil is the solution It doesn't have to be dirty 90 wt gear oil to do the job The first ingredient in lighter fluid is an "oil": Light Hydrotreated Distillate Actually, no it is not an oil. Distillates are light hydrocarbons and evaporate readily (in the case of lighter fluid) and are not as viscous as oils. Oiling a trigger is a recipe for bad things. There are MANY better ways to prevent rust than oil. Some people just can't admit when they are incorrect...even when presented the facts. I guess he isn't leaning too fast... I stand by the statement...oiling will cause more issues than a dry trigger. You say you can just clean and re-oil...well you can also do that on a dry trigger! WOW...what a revelation! I also stand by the statement that you will see issues quicker with an oiled trigger versus a dry trigger...Zippo Lighter Fluid is the best treatment for a trigger, both cleaning and preserving.
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I think the question was answered with the 1st response.
When truth is ignored, it does not change an untruth from remaining a lie.
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Campfire Ranger
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I think the question was answered with the 1st response. +1 Having owned 2 Abolts, one Xbolt and numerous Vanguard and Howa rifles here are the major differences between the 2. 1. Drop forged receiver, simple bolt design that is completely field strippable. 2. X-bolts receiver bridge is so thin it requires the use of 4 screws on each scope base . The x-bolt has 2 advantages low bolt lift and lighter weight. Old and New vanguards are some of the most consistently accurate rifles one can buy with exceptional quality control.Too much cheap metal in the Abolt/Xbolt trigger and bottom metal.
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A 240 Roy 8 twist would have a few S2 in the garage.....
W
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
MtnHtr
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Having owned 2 Abolts, one Xbolt and numerous Vanguard and Howa rifles here are the major differences between the 2.
1. Drop forged receiver, simple bolt design that is completely field strippable.
Actually the Howa/Vanguard receiver is extruded. You can take the firing pin assembly out without tools on the Howa, while with the Browning you'd need a pair of pliers, vice-grips or similar (or a vice) to pull the cocking piece back. For stripping beyond that point both require tools - and much the same tools. FWIW In several decades of hunting I've never had to strip a bolt, on any rifle, in the field, so the difference is moot. YMMV. 2. X-bolts receiver bridge is so thin it requires the use of 4 screws on each scope base. 4 screws would be stronger than two too. The x-bolt has 2 advantages low bolt lift and lighter weight. Old and New vanguards are some of the most consistently accurate rifles one can buy with exceptional quality control.Too much cheap metal in the Abolt/Xbolt trigger and bottom metal. As far as I've seen, both are very accurate, and have very good QC, something the Japanese are very good at, owing, among other things, to work done post war by Americans like W Edwards Deming. As for the "cheap metal", it seems to me that quite a number of makers use aluminium alloy for bottom metal, not just Browning, and not for cost but lightness. In the trigger mechanism the working parts are hard-chromed steel.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Having owned 2 Abolts, one Xbolt and numerous Vanguard and Howa rifles here are the major differences between the 2.
1. Drop forged receiver, simple bolt design that is completely field strippable.
Actually the Howa/Vanguard receiver is extruded. You can take the firing pin assembly out without tools on the Howa, while with the Browning you'd need a pair of pliers, vice-grips or similar (or a vice) to pull the cocking piece back. For stripping beyond that point both require tools - and much the same tools. FWIW In several decades of hunting I've never had to strip a bolt, on any rifle, in the field, so the difference is moot. YMMV. 2. X-bolts receiver bridge is so thin it requires the use of 4 screws on each scope base. 4 screws would be stronger than two too. The x-bolt has 2 advantages low bolt lift and lighter weight. Old and New vanguards are some of the most consistently accurate rifles one can buy with exceptional quality control.Too much cheap metal in the Abolt/Xbolt trigger and bottom metal. As far as I've seen, both are very accurate, and have very good QC, something the Japanese are very good at, owing, among other things, to work done post war by Americans like W Edwards Deming. As for the "cheap metal", it seems to me that quite a number of makers use aluminium alloy for bottom metal, not just Browning, and not for cost but lightness. In the trigger mechanism the working parts are hard-chromed steel. And there-in lies the rub... The non-working parts which are not hard-chromed steel are of very suspect metallurgy and many rust immediately and quickly upon exposure to nasty weather, regardless of the cleanliness or protectants used. I believe there is enough to question whether it might be a dielectric reaction due to the speed.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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And there-in lies the rub... The non-working parts which are not hard-chromed steel are of very suspect metallurgy and many rust immediately and quickly upon exposure to nasty weather, regardless of the cleanliness or protectants used.
I believe there is enough to question whether it might be a dielectric reaction due to the speed.
Dielectric? What? Being both curious, and a metallurgist (at least by training), I just pulled mine down and had a look. The parts looked like steel, so I tried a magnet. All the parts of the trigger group that I could access, including trigger blade, housing, various pins and linkages, attracted the magnet, consistent with what I thought: it seems that it is all steel. Now it is not impossible that under adverse conditions these could rust, but the same is true of any blued steel or even your typical stainless as used in firearms. FWIW after nearly 30 years, including any number of extended periods hunting in rain, the trigger mechanism on mine had no rust at all. As I said a few pages back, I don't baby it either.
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