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Thanks for the tutorial TC1! Your stocks look so good it's making me want to start work on my S&W branded 1900 Husqvarna that needs a facelift. I'm holding back because I can't decide whether to remove the M/C or leave it as is. crazy A quick question: Where is the bolt release on your 1640?


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No, it looks nice from here. Very nice. (But nor do I have my nose 2" off the surface of the wood casting my vision at a shallow angle in good reflective light, so I can't be sure. Never ask me to evaluate something like that via an internet pic, when I can't hold it in my hands and critically examine it.)

Everybody's world view and life experiences are different and that makes for a bazillion approaches to the same problem. Some work, some don't, and very few other than the labor intensive old ones stand the test of time. I have made comments based upon my experiences (and all in public, by the way), and from watching too many emperors parade down the street modeling their new clothes.

As an aside, notice how we all use the term "hand rubbed"? If you stop and think about it, how else would we rub a finish? With our feet, with our noses? Elbows perhaps? Ha ha. It's akin to saying "hand tied flies". Not much foot tying going on, and never has a machine been invented that will tie a fly, and I doubt many monkeys or Labradors can do it either. Just a comment about how phrases can be mis-applied in our lexicon.




That post wasn't about terms, it was about results and I think I made my point. This thread is about refinishing a stock and pictures are the best I can do. Like it or not this is the internet. If you were here I would have no problem letting you take it out in the sunlight, turn it at any angle you wanted and even go over it with a magnifying glass. There simply is no shrinkage or popping. I have given my word and displayed proof of it. If that's not enough, well so be it. On some subjects everyone seems to be an expert and this seems to be one of them. While it may not be your method there is nothing new about it. I've been doing it this way for over 12 years now and learned from others who have been doing it for much longer than that.

I started this thread to help others who didn't know how. I hope it helps.



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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Can there be more time elapse in-between the rubbing coats?

That is, can one take a week off and then go back to it again? A year off, then go back again?


I would think a week would be fine. I'm not sure about a year, I've never tried it. I would probably hit it with a light steel wool or wet sand it before I did.



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Originally Posted by Joe
Thanks for the tutorial TC1! Your stocks look so good it's making me want to start work on my S&W branded 1900 Husqvarna that needs a facelift. I'm holding back because I can't decide whether to remove the M/C or leave it as is. crazy A quick question: Where is the bolt release on your 1640?


The bolt release on the 1640 is still there, it's part of the ejector. I took it out and cut it short just before it comes out of the action and then when I made the pattern I ran the wood across the bolt release cutout. It's just enough to cover that area. To remove the bolt now you simply pull the bolt all the way back and push the ejector down with your finger. It's simple and about as fast as before. A Swede taught me that trick.



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Excellent tutorial; thank you for your time, effort -- and patience with questions and not to mention nay-sayers!


"It is wise, though, to remember above all else: rifle, caliber, scope, and even bullets notwithstanding, the most important feature of successful big game hunting is to put that bullet in the correct place, the first time!" John Jobson
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Joe beat me to the first question but I have a couple more. What stock pattern did you use on the 1640 .270? It appears to have a bit of drop at the heel, but am I correct in assuming it still works with a low ring scope mount? It looks similar but a bit higher than the Stuart Edward White style I've been eyeing on Walnut Grove Gunstocks website. Thx


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Originally Posted by CKW
Excellent tutorial; thank you for your time, effort -- and patience with questions and not to mention nay-sayers!


Thanks for the comments. We are in the home stretch now.



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Originally Posted by shootem
Joe beat me to the first question but I have a couple more. What stock pattern did you use on the 1640 .270? It appears to have a bit of drop at the heel, but am I correct in assuming it still works with a low ring scope mount? It looks similar but a bit higher than the Stuart Edward White style I've been eyeing on Walnut Grove Gunstocks website. Thx


On page 1, do you remember seeing that red BRNO 21H I posted? That is the exact stock I used to pattern the 1640. When I bought that rifle the toe of the buttstock came in a seperate package grin

It had a crack in the back tang and had all the corners sanded round by someone who owned it before me. I fixed the bad spots but it still wasn't right. I had the little BRNO restocked and decided to use the original stock as a pattern.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

James Anderson turned it for me.

Yes, the stock has a lot of drop to it but for me it works great in the field. Not so much locked down on a bench but for field shooting positions I really like it.

I'm having a G33/40 built right now and plan on using another 21H as a pattern for it. On the next one I'm going to cut it at the wrist and remove about 1/2 the drop. I'm also going to turn it into a mannlicher with a mid-length forearm schnable.



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WOW !!! Fabulous, TC. No wonder your rifles look so great. A Master at Work, you are. E

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Originally Posted by Oheremicus
WOW !!! Fabulous, TC. No wonder your rifles look so great. A Master at Work, you are. E


Master? No, not by a long shot but would graciously accept the title of enthusiastic garage hack grin



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Thanks for all the work and knowledge sharing. My dad taught me a similar technique as yours, but we always used steel wool. Can you show me how to wet sand and maybe how to use a block. Whenever I wet sanded it just didn't turn out right

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Originally Posted by blairvt
Thanks for all the work and knowledge sharing. My dad taught me a similar technique as yours, but we always used steel wool. Can you show me how to wet sand and maybe how to use a block. Whenever I wet sanded it just didn't turn out right


There are only two reasons I'll wet sand. One is when I use the Boneblack/Rottenstone technique. I do this mainly because this stuff fills up dry paper too quicky. And two, when it becomes nesassary to sand on a finish.

I think the best advice I can give when you went sand is alway's step up a grit from what you would pick for dry paper. Iy you were to to chose 250 grit in dry I would step up the 320 for wet. Keep a wet surface and rinse your paper out often.

I use a regular sand block for as much as possible then I switch to wet paper wrapped around a scotch-bite pad for my tight angled surfaces. Sometimes you just have to free hand it around areas like the checkering.

Of course anytime you do this you're going to have to allow for extra drying time. When I finish I leave the stock in front of a fan for a couple of days and always make the last sanding with dry paper.



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Originally Posted by TC1
I'm having a G33/40 built right now and plan on using another 21H as a pattern for it. On the next one I'm going to cut it at the wrist and remove about 1/2 the drop.


I'd really like to see a tutorial on that process also. This stuff is very helpful for us "non-expert basement hacks." Someday, I'll graduate to the garage.

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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Originally Posted by TC1
I'm having a G33/40 built right now and plan on using another 21H as a pattern for it. On the next one I'm going to cut it at the wrist and remove about 1/2 the drop.


I'd really like to see a tutorial on that process also. This stuff is very helpful for us "non-expert basement hacks." Someday, I'll graduate to the garage.


It won't be a tutorial, it'll be more of a "let's see if I can pull this off" thread but sure, when the time comes I'll show the step by step success or fail.



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The only thing left to do it is wait about 3 or 4 more weeks and let the finish cure. After that happens I'll go back and rub it out with Rottenstone and water. After that I'll wax it and call it good to go.

Could it have been better? I think yes. In hind sight I should have done two more coats of filler on the stock. BRNO used poor quality walnut on these and I have never worked on a stock that had pores as open as these. That said, I'm happy with the results. You aren't going to make a silk purse out of a sows ear and this is a good example of that. I think it's was a huge improvement though and will be good for another 50 years if the next owner so chooses.

I hope some will find this helpful.

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[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Terry



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Terry- I like what you did and thanks for taking the time to post all the pics of the process. I might have missed it but you indicated you had to fix a small crack in the toe of the stock. I am curious about what that entailed and how you did it. Thanks, again. Bruce

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Originally Posted by LEADMINER
Terry- I like what you did and thanks for taking the time to post all the pics of the process. I might have missed it but you indicated you had to fix a small crack in the toe of the stock. I am curious about what that entailed and how you did it. Thanks, again. Bruce


I didn't include that part but it was real easy. After the stock was stripped. I mixed a two part epoxy and carefully pushed the exopy in the crack. After that I clamped the buttstock in a wood clamp and let it sit over night. The next morning the clamp was removed and the excess sanded off.



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Thanks again Terry for the great tutorial!

A couple of questions on how to deal with the checkering.

1) Any special treatment during the whiskering phase? Do you just sand up to the edge of the checkering?
2) Is it an issue to have the finish build up in the checkered areas when first applying the oil and during the hand rubbing part?

Thanks,
Phil

Last edited by Phil09; 02/21/15.
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Originally Posted by Phil09
Thanks again Terry for the great tutorial!

A couple of questions on how to deal with the checkering.

1) Any special treatment during the whiskering phase? Do you just sand up to the edge of the checkering?
2) Is it an issue to have the finish build up in the checkered areas when first applying the oil and during the hand rubbing part?

Thanks,
Phil


On the whiskering I just sand up to the checking. There might be a better way to handle this but whiskers in the checkering has never been a problem for me.

When applying the finish I alway's start away from the checkering and work up to it when rubbing the finish in. By the time I reach the checking there is so little "loose" finish that build up isn't a problem. As far as the checkering goes. I brush on 2 sealer coats, then brush in the 1st finish coat and wipe out the excess. For the remaining coats I work up to checkering then wipe it with a lot of pressure with the palm of my hand when I reach the checkering. There is very little oil going across the stock when I reach the checkering and build up isn't a problem.

When you are rubbing the finish in after about 3-4 coats you aren't using anymore than about 4 maybe 5 drops of finish per coat anyway. Build up isn't a problem.

Last edited by TC1; 02/21/15.


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