I had a significant problem with a refinished rifle I bought for my daughter.
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<br>It would rarely eject a shell that had been fired. I had thoroughly cleaned the gun several times. Each time we would go shooting, we would have intermittent problems with the shell sticking. Sometimes all we had to do was let it cool down, but usually it was running a cleaning rod down the barrel and smacking the shell out. Asking around for opinions, two suggestions were made as to the cause of the problem. One was that the chamber could be out of spec, another was that the chamber could have a burr or rust spot in it.
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<br>Most significant in this is that my daughter was very un-happy with me.
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<br>Anyhow, with hunting season starting next week (nothing like the present to change ones priorities), I had to figure this thing out.
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<br>I decided that I could at least try to inspect and/or polish the chamber. I compared my rifle (same caliber) with hers and didn't see any obvious issues (the bolts appeared to go in about the same distance, the extractors looked comparable, etc).
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<br>I got out my new Frau's Dremel tool (with the magic extension wand) -- now you see part of what attracted me to marry this one, even if she doesn't own a gun -- and used some bits I had bought from a vendor at a gun show to polish the chamber. I took a pointed bullet shaped grit embedded tip (I used a green one) and cut it to a blunt shape (so i could get into thte corner of the shoulder area), putting the tip holder out so that only a 1/4" or so of the shaft was in the collet, Scotch taping the collet clamp (to keep from scratching anything). This gave me enough room to not have the (collet/clamp) end of the flexible shaft enter the chamber area. I used fired brass, marking the outside with a permanent magic marker to try and get an idea of where the casings were hanging up at. A chemical known as 'dichem' (sp) is used for sheetmetal layout work and would probably work as well (maybe better). You'll have to remove the stock to get the Dremel into the receiver.
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<br>The only problem I had was that the fired shell casings I had are from my old 99E, which still failed to eject after polishing. I took the gun out yesterday, firing 40 rounds of Winchester 180 grain PSP's (Wal-Mart specials), then firing 25 or so rounds of Hornady 165 grain Light Magnum's. Though I can't tell you the accuracy of the rest of the day (scope loosened up, as well as shooter fatigue, inability to sit still enough -- and apparent blindness), the first three rounds (at 25 yards -- big whoop) were under an inch with two sharing a hole. The gun shoots as good as the shooter.
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<br>I noticed a couple of things I founds interesting:
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<br>1. The point when you are closing the lever and the pressure required to close increases dramatically is when it is cocking the striker. I had always presumed that to be the point the bolt is starting to lift into the top of the frame. So for storing the gun, you can hold the trigger down and the striker will fail to be picked up, this releiving the spring pressure.
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<br>2. The trigger difference between my 99 and hers is dramatic. We both have .308's, mine an E model, lever safety, probably late 50's or early 60's; hers is an A, tang safety. Both are rotary magazines. My trigger has a little creep (prior to let off), and a middle of the road trigger weight. Her guns trigger is heavy, with a VERY crisp let off. Does anyone know of any technical information on adjusting the trigger pull weight? Her gun is too stiff for comfortable trigger pull.
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<br>3. Cheek rests aren't just for bench shooters & Olympians. I put a neoprene sleeve on my stock and stuffed the supplied foam pieces until my cheek rests firmly on the stock while my eye is centered on the scope. Oh is it easier to shoot from! I got my kit from Gander Mtn. I believe it is named Bear or something like that. I have seen the kit in catalogs, though I haven't seen it in any other stores. After I see how far the foam finally settles out to, I'll measure it and either order a correct stock (until I hear the price), order an adjustable check piece mount kit, or more likely order up one of the leather lace on check pads. For the doubting Thomases out there, I am shooting a Pentax (Burris) 1.5-5 x 1" scope, with a Burris one piece mount & the nylon ring type med ht rings (the lowest they make in the nylon). So I am only slightly higher than a two piece mount with standard (low) rings.
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<br>Now that I have solved this problem, anybody have experience with Savage model 755 12 gauges?
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<br>Enjoy!
