Don't know what they weigh exactly but my son took apart a nice one and built a 257 ak. It was really light. As light as most rifles called light weights..built today. 4.6 does seem pretty light but without scope and mounts I'm betting 6 lbs Pm member tjerica1201. Have him weigh it for you....
In the linked thread there's a scoped gun weighing right around 7 lbs and another comment stating his gun weighs 6 lbs 4 oz. Thats beautifully light weigh IMO.
Is the 20.5" gun supposed to be the lightweight version of the 1640?
I'm the source of the apparent confusion from the old post. The original post was about what was the weight of a barreled action; not the entire rifle. Read it again and it will make more sense.
In my old notes the stocks alone weighed about 2 lbs, 8 oz. This included recoil pads.
This particular "complete" rifle as pictured weighs 7 lbs. 8 oz. with Control mounts and a Leupold 1-4X20 scope. But the butt has been drilled out to lessen the weight and it has a 0.8" thick recoil pad.
"It is wise, though, to remember above all else: rifle, caliber, scope, and even bullets notwithstanding, the most important feature of successful big game hunting is to put that bullet in the correct place, the first time!" John Jobson
I have one in 30/06. Without a scope, it weights about 6 1/2 pounds. It's as handy as a 30-30, but kicks hard. It's a lot of fun to carry but less fun to shoot.
Okie John
Originally Posted by Brad
If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
This thread got me to wondering how much my 24" 30/06 Husky weighed. Looks like it is 7.25 lb unloaded. I thought it would be less than that. Must have something to do with where the weight is.
Mine is coming with weaver bases and a side mount base which I'll probably remove. My intent is to use just the irons but if I could still see them over the bases I'd also use a quick detach scope.
It has the steel bottom metal and I'm using Weaver a two piece base with weaver rings. I like them because I've never had them shift when traveling with or using a rifle and they let me mount the scope low.
You can see the iron sights with the scope off, but just barely. They are right in the bottom of the Weaver bases. When I travel with a rifle, I normally carry an extra scope rather than depend on the irons. I do like to have the irons sighted in and ready for emergency use, but I wouldn't want to have to hunt with those irons using these old eyes.
I think a lot of the clean lines (and low weight) these rifles have is due to the really slim barrels and stocks that are just barely there. I've never seen one I didn't like.
I have one just like in the above pic and I can just see over Weaver bases to view irons. The Weaver base charts usually call for Weaver 46 (ring) and 55 (bridge) but recently picked up one imported by Simpsons LTD and see many have 35 and 25- which one of mine has. These mount the scope lower which I find helpful with the older stock style many of the Huskys have.
Looks like I'm using the Weaver 55 and 46 set of bases on mine. I might have to try the 35 and 25 set to see if I can lower the scope a little. Mine has developed a serious trigger problem and needs a trip to the gunsmith anyway.
I have been tempted to try one of the Huber Concept triggers. They make one that is supposed to replace the original Husqvarna trigger but retain the stock safety with little if any modification to wood.
I have 2 of these little rifles. One with alloy bottom metal and the other steel. One is my wife's and one is mine, both are chambered in30/06. We always have one of them with us when camping, fishing etc. Leadminer thank you for the info regarding the Weaver bases as I have been wanting to get lower mounts so as to have functional irons.
The Huber trigger is what is in my rifle and I'm having problems with it. Right now it is acting like a release trigger. It has worked great until now and I'm not sure what has happened. Might just be that an adjustment is needed. I don't mind working on some stuff on a rifle, but I don't do triggers. My brother used to be a gunsmith and I'll get him to take a look at it next week.
The original post reminds me I have to get another scale to weigh stuff like this. I have two with 20.5" barrel (one with full stock and the other LW with Montecarlo///alloy BM). I don't know their weight but are pretty light as Yukoner showed. The other, 24" barrel and steel BM came from Simpsons with the slightly lower Weaver bases. I really like these Swedes with the possible exception of factory trigger. I've yet to see one with the Tradewinds adj trigger. Maybe someone here has. Interesting development with Huber trigger. I would be interested to hear how it sorts out for you.
I talked with my gunsmith about the Huber trigger. The over travel adjustment screw hadn't been backed out enough from the point that it would release the striker. I backed the screw out a turn and it works perfectly. The trigger is really easy to adjust. Only took about 10 min start to finish.
I'm still going to let him take a look at it next week and glass bed the action while he is at it. I noticed that the stock in the area behind the recoil lug, as well as the web of wood in front of the trigger, was cracked at sometime and glued back together. He likes to put a concealed reinforcing bolt in those areas and then glass it in. There isn't much wood in the stock to begin with and what is there is old. I think the glass bedding will save the stock and make this old rifle almost bullet proof.