On a total impulse buy, I pick up a Tikka T3 Super Lite in .308win. Ordered a EGW rail for it, and will have to play swap a scope to get it to the range for load work up.
My Tikka Superlight is in 270 Winchester. it does not shoot .250 but it shoots 3 shot groups of .75 with Federal Fusion 130 grain ammo,Hornady Whitetail 130 Grain ammo 130 grains ammo shoots .85 Shooting without any fouling from a clean barrel.
I haven,t had any problem with the factory rings as of yet Torqued the ring base to 25 inch pounds and the ring tops to 20 inch pounds.
Handloads might help to decrease the groups but I am happy with the accuracy of the factory loads for the purpose of a hunting rifle for deer out to 400 yards.
I torqued the front and rear stock screws to 35 inch pounds and lowered the trigger pull to 1.5 pounds.
All the Tikka and Sako triggers I've ever adjusted stopped at 2 lbs.
The reason that the trigger pull On the Tikka T3 cant be adjusted lower is that the head of the trigger adjustment screw contacts the bolt that holds the trigger to the action.
Take the bolt out that holds the trigger to the action and take the trigger off and file down the head of the trigger adjustment screw and that will allow the screw to back out farther before it touches the Bolt.
All the Tikka and Sako triggers I've ever adjusted stopped at 2 lbs.
The reason that the trigger pull On the Tikka T3 cant be adjusted lower is that the head of the trigger adjustment screw contacts the bolt that holds the trigger to the action.
Take the bolt out that holds the trigger to the action and take the trigger off and file down the head of the trigger adjustment screw and that will allow the screw to back out farther before it touches the Bolt.
That will allow for a lighter pull.
This is for the Tikka T3
Aha. Thanks for the tip. Never thought of that. Would likely work on the Sako too. So far I've never wanted them lighter than 2 lbs but I'll keep this in mind.
I've filed a few down to get a little lighter pull. But the Better option is to spend $7 and get a Yo Dave trigger spring.....
16bore Talleys are great also, the lows house a 40mm objective quite well.
Why is the spring a better option ?? It didn,t cost me anything but a little time and a 1.5 pound crisp trigger pull is fine with me. Mine would only adjust down to about 2.25 pounds before I filed it down. so it reduced it by 3/4 of a pound. I didn,t bother trying to get it lower as this is a hunting rifle and 1.5 pounds gives me a trigger that is light and easy to shoot but stll heavy enough to feel in cool weather.
Because it allows for an even better adjustment range, and is much more reliable resetting the sear. The factory screw is much thicker, and a bit shorter... it's only job is to make sure the sear engages. So, as you back the screw out the spring is under less compression (and it doesn't have much range)... sometimes to the point of having the sear not reset and the hammer drop on a rigorous run of the bolt. I've had it happen more than once with the screws way backed out. Take yours out, make sure it's empty.... and cycle the bolt hard... see if the hammer ever drops when closing the action.
The YoDave spring is lighter, that allows you to keep the spring under good compression (thus maintaining solid sear engagement), yet maintain the lower trigger pulls achievable by filing the head down.
Here's the pic of the two screws.... OEM on top, YoDave below...
You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
No offense to anyone, as I'm a Tikka fan too.......but I've been hunting Tikkas for the past 15 years, and consider the stock triggers to be very good. What's the infatuation with trying to improve on a great factory trigger?
It is irrelevant what you think. What matters is the TRUTH.
Because it allows for an even better adjustment range, and is much more reliable resetting the sear. The factory screw is much thicker, and a bit shorter... it's only job is to make sure the sear engages. So, as you back the screw out the spring is under less compression (and it doesn't have much range)... sometimes to the point of having the sear not reset and the hammer drop on a rigorous run of the bolt. I've had it happen more than once with the screws way backed out. Take yours out, make sure it's empty.... and cycle the bolt hard... see if the hammer ever drops when closing the action.
The YoDave spring is lighter, that allows you to keep the spring under good compression (thus maintaining solid sear engagement), yet maintain the lower trigger pulls achievable by filing the head down.
Here's the pic of the two screws.... OEM on top, YoDave below...
Yes I believe there would be a point that would happen if backed off to far. I always work the bolt hard and bump the butt on the floor. Trigger remained set and constant in trigger pull.
Thanks for the concern and the tip and the Pics about the spring though.
Although the seems to be no issue at the time if it ever gives me any issue at all I will get the spring.
No offense to anyone, as I'm a Tikka fan too.......but I've been hunting Tikkas for the past 15 years, and consider the stock triggers to be very good. What's the infatuation with trying to improve on a great factory trigger?
Not an infatuation just a preference. Yeah the stock trigger would adjust down to 2-1/4 pounds which is pretty darned good but I prefer lighter and when it doesn,t take much Investment in either time or money why not ?
On a total impulse buy, I pick up a Tikka T3 Super Lite in .308win. Ordered a EGW rail for it, and will have to play swap a scope to get it to the range for load work up.
Don't be a peasant. Establish a surplus of rings, bases, and glass prior to delving into the world of rifles.
Here is a group I shot with my Tikka .308 last week. Pretty uber.
Travis
Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
On a total impulse buy, I pick up a Tikka T3 Super Lite in .308win. Ordered a EGW rail for it, and will have to play swap a scope to get it to the range for load work up.
Don't be a peasant. Establish a surplus of rings, bases, and glass prior to delving into the world of rifles.
Here is a group I shot with my Tikka .308 last week. Pretty uber.
On a total impulse buy, I pick up a Tikka T3 Super Lite in .308win. Ordered a EGW rail for it, and will have to play swap a scope to get it to the range for load work up.
I like Tikkas. Don't really love 'em. With that said, I own two and working up a load will be easy. These rifles will shoot just about anything inside 1.5" and several into 1/2 MOA or better. They just lack something that a solid old Remington or Winchester have. Maybe its 'metal' the Tikkas lack in some places, but they sure as hell shoot.
Nut
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