Reading the instruction manual that came with my new M18 last evening, it says to epoxy bases. "... ensure that the mounting base is not just screwed on, rather has additional and evenly applied high-quality two-component adhesive used to stick it in place."

What say my expert Campfire advisors? Should I epoxy scope bases? If so, how do I get them off if I ever want to?

I have used LocTite in blue or red a few times to ensure even contact between bases and receiver but usually not. I have Talley one-piece base/rings ready to put on the rifle. If I use epoxy it would probably be marine grade since I have some on hand and we hunt the wet.

FWIW, the manual also says to never shoot hand loads, and its use of English is faintly odd, calling the bolt the chamber most of the time.

I've epoxied-on bases (and the screws that hold them to the receiver) for over 20 years on every rifle I own. You end up with a "monolithic" mount.

I use JB Weld as it's a farily "weak" epoxy. Apply it thinly and evenly across the base bottoms, and a small dab on the end of the screws. Tighten down slowly, alternating between screws. Take up to 5+ minutes to tighten allowing excess epoxy to squeeze out.

Clean up with acetone and/or denatured alcohol and qtips, cotton swabs and paper towels.

To remove bases, take barrelled action out of the stock and lightly kiss the bases with a Benzomatic torch until screws loosen.

I get the cross hairs centered in the tube.
My way of rotating the scope and change the turrets until the hairs cross are in the center.
I have since read about pressing the objective against a mirror and adjust the turrets until the crosshairs line up with the cross hair reflection.

With the rings tight on the bases and the scope, I shim [with narrow shims] the bases until the crosshairs align with the cross hairs.
I then epoxy between the bases and receiver, but leave the screws loose.

After the epoxy is hard, I take off the rings and tighten the base screws.

Now centered scopes can be swapped from rifle to rifle and be on the paper.
Now the rings are not putting a bind on the scope tube.



Alternatively I can put a scope base in modified V blocks and mill out, with a boring bar, the concave bottom of the base.
I can change radius, height, or introduce and offset.... ala Steve Acker.

No, sir. I would not recommend epoxy for bases .

What's your advice based on?

I have never epoxied my bases and have never had an issue. So, for me, there is nothing to fix.

30 years of experience and white privilege.

I think Formid’s method is plenty strong/reliable enough. His extensive testing proves that it is.

Never had one come loose, so never felt the need, until I bought a .22 Match barrel for my G2 Contender. The screw holes were shallow, forcing me to shorten the screws of my EGW rail. Probably would never cause trouble on the rimfire, but just to be safe I mixed up some clear epoxy and ran a bead on the rail, staying clear of the holes. When I torqued it down, the glue oozed out a bit and I wiped it flush. I can see it on the edges, so if it ever lets go, I should be able to see that. I think the loctite on the screws should've kept the glue out of those holes.

The instructions for the Burris bases I put on my Alpine said to smear loctite on the bottoms, so I did. We'll see how that works out.

I typically do not bed two piece bases and personally feel lapping corrects the same issues, but I do like to bed one piece bases or rails. I highly doubt you would ever see a difference in your case with Talleys, but I would lap them.

So in other words, no experience. Thanks.

Math is racist . thirty equals zero . Thank you

I use loctite on base screws only and have never needed more

It's the same as bedding a rifle to me. No downside to doing it.

I don't epoxy
Everything gets degreased with
acetone and gets the appropriate
amount of loctite including the
ring screws. If it has threads it
gets loctite

No, I have never epoxy on bases!

Further, I've never had problems so why change.

I did on a couple of rifles but would not now. I will epoxy bed bases and rails if they appear to need it but most don't. The reason I wouldn't epoxy now is if I were on a hunt and dinged a scope it would be a pain to swap out with out the proper tools. Loctite or even nail polish has not let me down yet even on the medium bores.

I’ve mounted roughly 75 scopes for myself and a few others. Never used any epoxy on bases and never had an issue. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Always

NEVER NEVER epoxy any screws on scope mounts. tighten too 20 inch lbs per screw

Why not weld 'em on?????????

I've done everything cited and a bunch that ain't. Hint.

Welds are Soooooothing and I'm a fan. Hint.

Pass an extended 1913 rail,welds and get THE fhuqk outta the way. I shoot out more barrels,than most you DUMB Fhuqks do bullets. HINT.

It's never been tough to savvy,who actually shoots and who don't. HINT.

1000 words.



Bless your hearts for trying though.

Hint.

LAUGHING!...………...

Thank goodness many didn't follow the 'if it isn't broke, don't fix it' mantra. We'd still be driving to work on horseback.

When I bought my m700 stainless SPS 300 WSM about 10 years ago, the factory was putting a pretty rough bead blast finish on the receivers. I had recoil shear the base screws on the rear mount, So I turned to the collective wisdom of the campfire and was told to use epoxy bedding between the mount and receiver, so I did.

I put release agent on the receiver and threads so when I screwed them together it only stuck to the bases. The problem was solved and has never repeated.

Also, sometimes when you remove scope bases you will notice where oily goop has worked its way under the bases. This means your rig is asking you to bed the bases for uniform fit and bearing.

Why

Because he’s an expert...

I epoxy my bases. Can't see a downside. My rifles get fairly harsh treatment at times, and the extra strength it gives seems like a no brainer.

It cant hurt if you need ‘em strong enough to drop off a cliff.

The Do NOTHING Gang is HILARIOUS,in their "response".

LAUGHING!

Hint...……….

Sincere question-
What is the photo supposed to show
besides a rifle, some dies, and a round?
Since this sickness biz, I no longer have
access to a regular computer, and I'm
relegated to using this borrowed phone
and can just barely make out enough to
get by. In other words, I CSS

Left of the cartridge, the mount is welded to the receiver.

That 1913 rail has a thin weld bead between it and the front bridge of the receiver.

Dave beat me to it.

Can you see the yellow tape?

Oh ok- thanks ( I can just barely make it out now that
I know what I'm looking for)

Blankety- Blanking cellphones will be the
ruination of us all.
I don't know how the kids get so addicted
to having one in their hand every waking hour

" I shoot out more barrels,than most you DUMB Fhuqks do bullets. HINT."

No you don't, you lying little mutt. Punky Stinky, .

If you can use a one piece scope base, you can get around some of the skill required to epoxy two scope bases parallel with the bore and co planar and in line with each other.

All the youtube videos I have seen on epoxy under scope bases, were for a one piece base.

The two piece bases need epoxy more, but would require using rings tight on the scope to position the bases during epoxy hardening.

I have been epoxying the bases to the receiver for quite a while now. They usually separate with little fanfare when needed but never seem to from recoil or hunting. There is very little down-side to doing it. To whomever things JB weld is a "weak epoxy" I will disagree with you. It is actually quite strong as epoxies go. I bed. lightly snug the screw and then tighten properly after a few hours. Don't get the epoxy on the threads. I'm with Stick on the welding,. I think it is better yet. Remington 700 actions rear bridges are ground with less that any precision. Bedding them is very helpful. It you don't think so. Mount a 2 piece base set and drop a level over the top. You will be surprised at how much out of alignment they are.

2 things. The OP never ask about using epoxy on the screws. He ask about using epoxy on the bases. I always do. The other thing is about JB Weld being :"weak" epoxy, JB Weld is rated at the top for strength in 2 part epoxies.

If you don't jig align and epoxy bed 2 piece bases, they are most likely out of alignment. More so on some guns/bases than others. RJ

Oh my,does yet another Clueless Brokedick Whining Kchunt,wish to correlate that she just also happens to be a Lying Piece Of Fhuqking Schit to boot...the "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?



In fairness,welds have no equal and especially when joining max ring spacing. Pardon the splendor of 8" RPM and .473" L/A 180 .796 BC. Google as you must. Hint.




That being said,I've seen (5) 8x40 fasteners,do nice things,in regards to zero retention. Hint.












It's never been difficult to tell who shoots and who don't. Be nice to see the S/A 700 based Bart' 7" RPM 224 Grendel arrive this pass. Hint.

Bless your hearts for trying.

Hint.

LAUGHING!...................

Lotta good info here. I'm taking my time, learning all the while. Going to put it all together and may even shoot a bit before final assembly. Likely going to epoxy the base at that point, and as said, keep it out of screw holes. Right now I'm thinking Loctite on all screws. I don't shoot a lot, at least as I would define that, and am too old to be very rough on gear anymore.

I had never thought of welding but duh! That is a super idea. It is beyond my personal skill and tools, and my second rate method should hold minute of deer.

My initial reflex was to dismiss this idea; but given inevitable production variances in contact surfaces between rifle receivers and mounts, I'd probably give it a try on any rifle/scope combo I expected absolute precision from.

I don't think epoxy is necessary, just make sure things are in line, clean and you properly use loctite.

Stick, where is the photo of your rifle submerged in a stream and the rifle drug through the rocks and mud.

That would really prove you are quite a guy.....

Okanagan;
Good afternoon sir, it's been too long since we've touched base and I hope all is well with you and your wonderful family.

If you were still on this side of the medicine line and if you were so inclined to bring a rifle here for me to work on, then I would ask you if you DID NOT want your bases epoxied down onto the receiver, otherwise all the rifles which come through my shop get glued on.

Why is a good question and I'll do my best to answer as follows.

When I started fooling with horses more than a quarter century ago, I found that they'd loosen pretty much anything off given the opportunity, scope bases included.

I'd recalled reading a story by an old time Montana packer Ed Nixon who'd gone on an Alaska hunt and had epoxied the bases down onto his custom BSA - I think it was a BSA - action which had been barreled to a .338 wildcat which was very close to the .338 Win Mag.

Then after experimenting successfully with epoxying bases on - and not having them come loose on horse hunting rifles, a buddy informed me that some accuracy gurus did that because it takes up any space between the mount and the receiver....

The light went on for me and I began to check the fit of the contour of the base as it related to the receiver and it was seldom the very same. When it isn't, the screws will hold it in place after a fashion if the contour of the base is smaller than the receiver, but less well if it's the opposite situation.

When I was doing millwrighting, we'd use epoxy - JB weld or what have you, when we had slightly worn surfaces which we needed 100% contact on and it worked there too.

My way is as you mentioned - no glue on the screws - so they can come out with moderate pressure. However, in having glued bases onto rifles which are now in use across 3 western provinces, I've not had one person say that the bases loosened off on them. That's with folks who hunt with small planes, horses, quads, jet boats, back packing and just general knock around hunting of course.

Anyways sir, lots of roads lead to Mecca of course - not that we'd go there now or ever, but I digress - however, that's what I do on rifles running through my shop and why.

Hope that made sense and was useful. All the best to you all and we'll be in touch.

Dwayne

70 years ago my father at paccar used gallons of epoxy in his M55 design and follow on contracts for the M107 and M110 mobile artillery.
It is in the pendulum of the equilibrator to position Mercury switches that turn on hydraulic valves to balance the 20 ton barrel from swinging down hill and balance barrel elevation.

At Boeing a tooling machinist can walk into the epoxy shop and be handed a cup full of just mixed Devcon.

In my humble shop where I build myself 3 or 4 rifles a year, I can mix epoxy as fast as some people can mix a drink.

Probably the easiest way to get things right wit 2 piece bases. https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt.../tps-basebed-alignment-tool-arrived#Post

The only deviation from TPS's instructions is, I would use JB Weld ( much stronger), instead of 5 minute epoxy supplied with the kit and use headless base screws for the bedding process, holding the the alignment tool/bases on the receiver with loops of surgical tubing or large rubber bands. RJ

I worked at a place where we had over a dozen different industrial epoxies, mostly in 55gal drums. We used the exact epoxy that JB Weld is marketed to for consumers (there are only a small handful of epoxy mfg's world-wide). I found it was far more "brittle" than other epoxies, and when heated seemed break its bond more quickly. It was primarily used to be mixed with fine silica to use as a trowel-on for industrial-chemical settings to cover and protect concrete from erosion. I call it "weak" (a simplistic term obviously) because it is more brittle and its bond breaks quickly when heated, which makes it ideal for bases/screws. Personally, I wouldn't use it for bedding due to to its brittle nature, but obviously it works fine. IMO Devcon Marinetex and Acraglass Gel are better epoxies for bedding.

Just one man's opinion based on industrial use...

Brad, I hear what you're say'n, but tell me how brittleness would matter when the epoxy is sandwiched between a base and the receiver? Brittleness only matters when you need the material to be flexible. For bedding purposes, you damn sure don't need or want flexibility. RJ

Not true
You don’t want anything brittle when you we dealing with impact/recoil forces

You're dealing with shear forces here. I'll bet 80-90% of the shear forces are taken by the 4 (typically) scope base screws and the rest with the static friction between the base/epoxy bedding and the receiver. The shear forces are in the horizontal plane - please tell me how the epoxy is transferring these shear forces.

Epoxy is good for about 4500 psi in shear.
We covered some of the force last month.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/14868946/1

Heck. You don’t need a 55 gallon drum of it to bed with.


Happy trails

Bob

😂😂

Say what you will, but epoxy brittleness will have absolutely no effect on epoxy bedded scope bases. RJ

I have never glued a base mount on a receiver but I can see the purpose, In my mind the epoxy is not so much to hold the base to the receiver. It is to give the base almost 100% contact with the receiver. The bolts or more appropriately, screws hold the base on the receiver. But the epoxy gives it almost complete contact with the receiver giving it a more steady platform which will prevent movement and secure alignment. There's a certain percentage of contact without the epoxy or else all mountings would require it. But the epoxy will increase the contact area from probably 50%-70% upwards to almost 100%. Brittleness isn't so much a factor. Percentage of contact, or how much of each piece is touching the other is what is needed here. The more the base contacts the receiver the steadier the mounting will be which translates to strength and accuracy.

Did it years ago on a 700 with a NF rail and NF scope. That rig had a tendancy to work things loose. Little JB fixed that completely.

Updates:

Got some excellent help via private messages from a couple of men who mount a lot of scopes. Thank you.

Second, re brittle epoxy: Golf club glue. There is an epoxy specially formulated for high impact strength. It retains a bit of elasticity rather than becoming brittle. It is designed to glue golf club heads to shaft, etc. I ordered some. Brampton and GolfWorks seem to be the two main brands of it. Impact of a golf club face on a ball should be somewhat similar to recoil.

Oh yeah, I remember that thread:

"A #6 screw tightened to 18 inch pounds with dry threads will make 640 pounds of clamping force.With 4 screws this is 2560 pounds of clamping force.
If there is no oil between the receiver and scope bases, the coefficient of friction is 0.8. That would be good for up to 2048 pounds of scope acceleration force.
But if there is oil, then the coefficient of friction is 0.16 and only good for up to 409 pounds of scope acceleration force, and the scope zero will be lost."

So, that static coefficient of friction (0.8) is steel/aluminum (scope base) on steel receiver? I know it's an assumed value , but there would be a good difference between an hi-gloss blued receiver and a bead blasted stainless, no?

If there is a layer of bedding compound installed, how does change coefficient of friction value change when you have epoxy/metal contract? It's still unclear to me Clark, how much of that 2,000 lbs of shear force is distributed between the (1) screws and (2) friction between the scope base/receiver.

I certainly see why increasing the contact area of the scope base/receiver takes the shear load off the screws. And I definitely see why roughening up the receiver (gasp) would make things even better.

You'da' thunked,that someone woulda said something about a clip slotted and double-lugged Marty rail. Hint.




I mean if only for conversation. Hint.



Pardon my having all the T-shirts and BT/DT for decades.....................(grin)

I'm not sure that I follow that logic, using a flexible epoxy, unless you simply want to seal out moisture.

That product is used in a different application. Since there is no fastener holding the golf club head to the shaft, flexible epoxy must fix the golf head to the club by adhesion. Impact and peeling resistance are very desirable. But our scope bases are held in place with fasteners, which provide a clamp load. I don't want a flexible spacer, between the base and receiver. Just like I don't want a flexible washer in a bolted joint, unless it is required for vibration isolation or some other special application.

I'm not sure that I follow that logic, using a flexible epoxy, unless you simply want to seal out moisture.

That product is used in a different application. Since there is no fastener holding the golf club head to the shaft, flexible epoxy must fix the golf head to the club by adhesion. Impact and peeling resistance are very desirable. But our scope bases are held in place with fasteners, which provide a clamp load. I don't want a flexible spacer, between the base and receiver. Just like I don't want a flexible washer in a bolted joint, unless it is required for vibration isolation or some other special application.

Where'd ya get that trigger shoe?


Happy Trails


Bob

Same place he got that trigger.

Boob,

I reckon that's a Tyler,though I've got Flaig and Williams too. Hint.

Not long ago yarded a Williams offa' POS Pre-64 Suckaloo 70.

Hint.



Works well for melding/masking a broken trigger and I've broken more than a few...though they often fail too high up,to do so. Hint..................







FlamingJan,

I never knew RB to make 'shoes. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You gals are always a Treasure Trove of "information". Hint. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart for trying.

Hint.

Laughing!.............

Serious question Big Stick
What advantage does a trigger show offer. I have seen a few in person but never used one. The ones I've seen were on benchrest rifles. Thanks for any info.

Texczech;
Good evening to you sir, I hope the day's been a fine one for you and this finds you well.

While I am not Larry, we are I suppose both from north of the medicine line and share the same barber from the photos I've seen.

Trigger shoes used to be a big deal and seem to have lost favor with a lot of shooters, however I'll admit to having one on about every non-lever action arm in the safe.

The reason I like them personally is that they make the trigger pull sensation different - to me lighter in feel as well as allowing the trigger finger to sense where the pull is at during the process.

On a couple of occasions in my shop I've had non-shoe users guess the trigger pull weight of a rifle with and without a shoe installed and in each and every case they guessed that I'd adjusted the trigger to a lighter weight with the shoe installed.

Anyway sir, while Larry may have different and valid reasons for using shoes, those are mine.

Hopefully that made some sense and was useful. All the best to you all.

Dwayne

BC30cal - that is the same reason Iike them also, On hunting rifles with the trigger set at 2 - 2 1/2 #s they give a more controlable feel to the trigger. and I just shoot better using one, sure wish they were as commonly available as they used to be. Every rifle or pistol I had one on performed better and made me look like a better shooter than I am

I just wish I could gind a good source for them at reasonable prices, I would have one on every rifle. The last one I picked up was from a friend who lived on Lake Moie near Cranbrook, I have'nt
found another one since then.

drover

BouncedCzeck,

The biggest advantage of a Trigger Show,is to grant folks opportunity to see what Splendid Wares will reliably do and I often put on a Trigger Show,while using a Trigger Shoe. Hint. Congratulations?!?

As rifle mass reduces,it's prudent that a trigger's break follow suit and especially during a Trigger Show. A Trigger Shoe is a rather simplistic means to mechanically add leverage,upen what is often a woefully inadequate trigger's face. Hint.

Of course not all trigger's are "equal" in their mechanics or ergo's and a Trigger Shoe is a GREAT equalizer. Wares of repute,reliably wear exemplary triggers,more than a few of which are adjustable in a latitude of range to/fro and port/starboard,as well as LOP,along with break weight and often for each of two-stages. Hint.



All trigger faces should be much wider than issued,because it's easier to remove material,than add it. 'Course given that aid,then same would drift the inlet and it's metal,which simplifies mechanics and maintenance(say a saltwater immersion,or similar gross intrusion). Hint.

I've seen a Trigger Show,very MUCH influence folks cutting checks and procuring Showpieces,because real time results are rather good for Sales. Fact bein',nobody don't not procure in suit,after a Trigger Show. Hint.

Pardon my bolstering Sales,in regards to more than a "few" wares...as the Show must go on.

Hint.

LAUGHING!.................

Sounds complicated. This fall I will have to try gluing a base
down.

I'm trying to carve a seemingly epoxied but broken front bead,outta Sister's Superposed.



I've seen me goop up bases and rings. Lotsa folks are in a hurry to forget,that rifles don't shoot "tight"...they loosen schit. Have seen wayyyyyyyyyyy more base/ring failures,than I have mechanical issues attributed to the rifle proper and of course more scope pukes,than both combined. Tough to beat an extended 1913 rail,to circumvent all of that and (6) cap fasteners sure in the fhuqk IS soothin'. Never had either bobble,but I'm still trying. Mebbe today will be the day!?!(grin)

Much to be said,for connecting dots,right outta da' gate.

Hint..................

A lot of people have already pointed out, bases and receivers do no always match. If the radius on the base is only slightly larger than that of the receiver, the only contact will be in the middle of the base. This will allow it to rock back and forth.
One can test this by mounting a dial gauge on the barrel and placing the indicator point against the objective bell of the scope. By pushing on the scope, you can easily deflect it by 20 thou or more. When you release the pressure the scope should come back to zero. If it does not, there is a problem with the mount. By epoxying the base to the receiver, one can be pretty sure that is not the problem. I would rather not use aluminum bases either.
Re. trigger shoes: One thing a trigger shoe does is, it locates your finger in the same place for each shot. This gives a more consistent weight of pull. Of course, simply shaping the trigger correctly can accomplish the same thing. I always felt that Canjar did a good job of this.
While not many of us torture test our rifles like Limp Stick does, we should all want our rifles to be able to perform that well. Scopes and mounting systems should be tough. A person should be able to use the scope as a carrying handle or let the rifle slide around in the back of the truck. You may not plan on tossing your rifle on the ground but a real hunting rifle should be able to take it. A scope is an aiming device and, if the mount shifts around, it won't do a very good job of aiming at the same place.
By the way, I glass bed my scopes into the ring, rather than lapping. In essence, I am making my own ring insert. It is possible to build some elevation into the mount this way as well. GD

dumbdog,

Your STUPIDITY never wanes,in it's Magnificent Humor,as you simply do your best...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Do tell about your "cutting edge" Crooked Gooped Ring Cap "results" and the inclination amount it "yields". I fhuqking DARE you to post a picture of same. Don't "forget" to cite the blueprint,base,ring and scope particulars. Hint. LAUGHING!

Jeezus Fhuqk you are a CLULESS Kchunt. Hint.

1000 words on just a smallllll linkling,to the magnitude. Google it. Hint. LAUGHING!

Be SURE to "tell" folks "more",about your version of "knowledge","experience" and "results"!



Bless your heart,for Drooling on your keyboard.

Hint.

LAUGHING!.............

All: As usual small twigs post is useless, senseless, immature and profane - the sadness that he (it?) is, is simply underwhelming.
I have been shooting my Rifles with scopes on them for exactly 60 (sixty!) years now - and those Rifles number well up into the hundreds!
I have never "epoxied" the scope bases to any of my MANY scoped Rifles over those decades.
I have, though, tried to "clean-up" some Rifle receivers that had bases epoxied to them - those incidents were nearly as big a pain in the ass as small twig continues to try and be.
I say install correctly and with the correct torque values.
You will be good to go.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

VG, no one had ever used penicillin prior to 1928. In that year would you have stamped your feet and declared it unnecessary because in the previous 60 years you didn't think you'd needed it?

Of course it could be your hunting style isn't particularly hard on rifles and scopes... epoxy on scope bases is a lot like the proverbial handgun - "you don't need it until you need it badly."

Redundancy is always a good thing in mechanical systems...

VarmintGal,

Here's to how very WELL founded your COUNTLESS Insecurities are...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You couldn't knock the "new" offa' used pair of boots,with a 60 year headstart,a tailwind and headed downhill. HINT. Laughing!

What you "brazenly" extoll as 60 years of "experience",is what I simply call "an afternoon" and that dichotomy,is assuredly funnier than fhuqk. Google it. Hint.

Might that be yet another double-lugged Marty rail?!? Hint. LAUGHING!



Might this be yet another? Hint. LAUGHING!



The only thing you "shoot" is your quivering lips and Imagination,though your Drooling CLUELESSNESS never wanes in it's grandiose oblivious humor qotient. Read that again. Now one more time. Hint.

Bless your heart,for doing the best you can,with what INCREDIBLY little you "have" to "work" with. Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so you can "afford" to "contribute".

Please note my GREAT "surprise",that epoxy with a surface area less than a couple square inches and staring you in the face,whipped your ass sooooooooo convincingly. What were the "odds"?!?

Hint.

LAUGHING!..................

Most times yes, all times NO

Dip Stick,

I don't post pictures but I'll try and describe the epoxy bedding of the scope and the potential inclination so you can understand it. Judging from your post, where you have already describe bedding of the ring "cap" when it is plain, to anyone with a functioning brain, that is, one not affected by alcohol induced encephalopathy, that the epoxy is applied to ring base or, the bottom of the ring. I may have a little trouble putting it in terms you can follow but here goes:
You clueless, stupid, dik head. It's hard to tell sometimes if you are truly as stupid as you seem to be but there is certainly plenty of evidence that, if I look up dumb shidt in the dictionary, I'm likely to see your picture.
The epoxy goes in the BOTTOM of the ring, dumass. To clarify, that's the part closest to the floor. To accomplish some forward inclination while, at the same time, getting a perfect, stress free, contact between the scope and ring, you follow these instructions:

First, mount the bases to the receiver and DO use epoxy between the bases and receiver. Second, attach the rings to the bases and remove the tops. Third, rough up and degrease the bottom of the ring. Fourth, cut a couple of thin (.10") strips of .010 shim stock. bend these so they sit nicely in the bottom of the ring base. These will be placed, stacked, at the rear of the rear ring. Can you picture this? Is the struggle making your head hurt? You poor, simple, pretender in all things. Apply some paste wax to your scope tube. Now mix up some Acraglas or Marine tec or Belzona and put some into the bottom of both rings. The shims will be imbedded in the epoxy, at the rear of the rear ring. Press the scope down into the rings and install the tops (or caps, if you prefer. This is the part closest to the ceiling. Look up.) You dont have to tighten these down much. Ideally the contact points will be on the shims and at the front edge of the front ring. the rest will be filled with epoxy. Let it sit overnight. Pop the scope out and clean up, if you like. Clean up the scope tube. Sprinkle a tiny amount rosin in the bottom of the rings, on the perfectly matching surface and clamp the scope in the rings. The amount of inclination you get by raising the rear ring by .020" will depend on ring spacing. Pretend you understand or just keep on luxuriating in the ignorance that is your life! Hint. GD

'475,

If only for starters,not all base/rings are equal. Hint. Congratulations?!?

VarmintGal has never even "seen" anything worth a fhuqk,let alone actually "used" it,but I enjoy how REAL her Imagination is to her. Nor has she come even close in passing,to getting the goody out of anything,save her Pretend. Hint.

Bless her heart.

Hint.

LAUGHING!................






dumbdog,

You Magnificently CLUELESS Fhuqk,I'm VERY "surprised" that a camera is so far beyond your "means"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

The query was thus: "Do tell about your "cutting edge" Crooked Gooped Ring Cap "results" and the inclination amount it "yields". I fhuqking DARE you to post a picture of same. Don't "forget" to cite the blueprint,base,ring and scope particulars. Hint. LAUGHING!" HINT.

Give 'er another whirl,as you wipe more drool from your bib and put trembling finger to keyboard,you AMAZINGLY Stupid Fhuqk. Hint.

Bless your heart and Retardation.

Hint.

Laughing!!!

WOW +P+++!.....................

Agree all bases aren't equal, I use Seekins and NF bases

You sad, sorry, brainless, twit. I should have known that a description was beyond any chance for you to understand. Once again, dickweed, the goop does not go on the cap.
The glassbedding of the ring, as a substitute for lapping was done with various combinations just to ensure a decent fit. The first I saw of this was on rifles used by a couple of hillbillies from southern BC (the Forslund brothers), in the mid seventies, and, I'll confess, I copied them. Altering the technique to achieve some elevation enhancement was something I did on my own although I doubt I was the only one. I was trying to get enough elevation to sight a 24x Leupold in at 300m and be able to reach 900 with a 308. By doing this, I was able to get on at 300m with the scope at the bottom of it's adjustment and reach 900 with room to spare. The rings were, and are, any horizontally split ring. Rings like the Burris and Leupold are good. Rings which use angled screws to attach the cap are kind of limited since they can't tolerate much inclination. This was long before Burris was offering their rings with the inserts to accomplish the same thing.
I have to point out, this is something I only do to get more range out of rifles and scopes for F class or high power rifles. For hunting rifles, I don't need to shoot that far and am more in the "set and forget" camp.
I asked myself, before I wrote this, Do I want to go through the trouble of diggin out the old Polaroid so I can make some pictures for this mental midget, in hopes that he will be able to understand. My decision was, hell no, he's not worth the trouble and , even with pictures, he's still stupid so there is no guarantee. Maybe I should put some stuff on You Tube. I mean, if you can do it, how hard can it be. Just on looks alone, I've already got an edge. Add in personality and intelligence and I can't see how it could miss! GD

I think Big Stick is the Donald Trump of 24HCF: egotistical and obnoxious, but directionally correct.
At one time he was "NOBODY" at SH.


At one time I posted at AR. Those guys want scope bases soldered on thier Mausers.
At SH those guys want their scope bases epoxied on their round bottomed receivers.

At 24HCF there are so many posters and types of posters, I don't see a scope base consensus.

There was once a video by NOBODY that compared lapping rings to lap dancing:)

'475,

I've seen me use both,less issue(s). I ASSURE you,VarmintGal has never even "seen" same,let alone come close to shooting a platform so equipped.

Hint..............(grin)





dumbdog,

I'll feign my GREAT "surprise",that a coupla tries for you,ain't nearly enough...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

The query was thus: "Do tell about your "cutting edge" Crooked Gooped Ring Cap "results" and the inclination amount it "yields". I fhuqking DARE you to post a picture of same. Don't "forget" to cite the blueprint,base,ring and scope particulars. Hint. LAUGHING!" HINT.

If only to add more Delusion(s) to your Fantasy and bolster your Imagination and Pretend,how much erector travel is there in a Reupold 24x? What bullet and at what speed? What receiver? What base/rings? How were you staying supersonic at 900M? How high at 100,didja' gotta be,to "thread the needle with a 300M zero and have the erector bottomed out"? What sorta come-ups are requisite with same,from a 300M zero to 900M? If it helps,you are doing "GREAT" and really "know" your "stuff". You poor poor(literally) Clueless Fhuqktard. HINT. LAUGHING!

Might I add that "The rings were, and are, any horizontally split ring." was an EXCEPTIONALLY Fhuqking Hilarious touch too. now off you go,to try again. Read that again. Now one more time sloooowwwllllyyyyyyyyyyy. HINT. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart,for talking out your ass,you Delusional Fhuqktard.

Hint.

LAUGHING!..................










Bark'n,


Bases/rings are far more square on the average,than receivers are and I rather enjoy your Imagination and it's Pretend...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You Drooling CLUELESS Fhuqktards are a hoot! Hint. LAUGHING!

1000 Words. HINT.




Bless your heart for crying.

Hint.

Laughing!.....................

Has anyone heard from Big Stick ? I was told to avoid him , but never have even seen him.

Boob,

I rather enjoy how your Melting Snowflake Routine and STUPIDITY are no fhuqking "act",as you wax eloquent with your Vagina Monologue...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

1000 words.



1000 more and pardon,the welds,epoxy,thread locker,copious inclination,huge erector travel and the fact...that all is wellllllll beyond your "means","abilities" and "comprehension". HINT. Laughing!



bless your heart,for doing your best.

Hint.

LAUGHING!..................

I've used scope bases without issue my entire life except for once when the receiver on a M70 was under sized

700's like to have the rear bridge "located" all over the place and it's standard fare to chase same. One can shim,bed or go 'Horn's...if not a melding of same. Though I'm rather enjoy Dumbdog's Crooked Ring Delusions and "uncanny" ballistic "knowledge". Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!................

No trouble staying super sonic with 155 Scenars, starting out at 2960. I don't recall what the total travel was on that particular 24 but it was enough. I never shot that rifle at 100 so couldn't tell you how high it was but I reckon about 5.5 or 6 inches. I had a little cushion. Oh, steel Weaver bases and Buuris Zee rings (high). That rifle was a short action Model 70 with a 29 inch Krieger barrel. It has since been rebarreled to 6.5 CM and set up for M-S. Another one using the gooped ring system is a long Model 70, 308, 26 inch Swiss Arms barrel, 20X Leupold in a Leupold std mount (I don't really like those mounts but I had it in the drawer). Another is a PGW action barreled in 30/40 Krag and using a 20x Lyman BR scope. Steel Weaver, Burris rings. Another is a CIL 950T with a 28in, 8twist barrel in 22-250. Weaver T25, Weaver bases, gooped Leupold rings. A pre-war Model 70 with 28 inch barrel in 30/06 uses another Leupold 24. Weaver bases, Weaver rings, gooped. A Ruger 77 in 30/40 Krag uses Ruger rings, gooped, to hold it's 24x Leupold. A sleeved 40x in 308 uses weaver quad-lock ring, gooped for fit only, to hold the 36X weaver. This rifle was built to shoot 300 to 600 meters only so no inclination required.
I can push the 30/40's a little harder than a 308 and start the 155's at 3000+. 190's can be started at 2650+ with no problems. Rimmed cases are strong.
The truth is, Limp Stick, I use a bunch of old stuff that still works for me. Some of these scopes, I've had for over forty years. If I can hit center, it's working well enough to suit me. I don't like variables and only have a couple. The hunting rifles all use fixed power scopes, from 2 1/2X to 6X and have no need for any inclination to shoot to the 400 yards or so to which I limit myself on game.
Here's a confession for you, although I think some of my hunting rigs are pretty rugged, I still haven't been able to bring myself to toss one over the bank on purpose. Keep it up. I like the videos but you have to work on your narration a bit. For those times when you are in the picture, you may want to consider the use of a stand-in.
To get back to the original question; yes, epoxy is your friend. GD

dumbdog,

I've never heard of a 155 Skinner,so admittedly,you "got" me there...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

I VERY much enjoy,that besides being a CLUELESS Fhuqk,that you just also "happen" to be a Lying Piece Of Fhuqking Schit. Hint.

HILARIOUS Delusions! Hint.



First you were wayyyyyyy back in History,as you "discovered" your Crooked Ring Delusion and then suddenly it's Skinners for the "win",after an atmospheric query and a little more slack on the rope,for you to attempt to "handle". Your ballistic "knowledge" is absolute fhuqking HILARITY! Hint. LAUGHING!

1000 words. Hint.



Kudos on almost discovering what a paragraph is,in "all" of those years of "R&D". ALMOST. You Drooling DUMB Fhuqks never disappoint,by doing your "best" and Sweetie...you are on fire(liar,liar). Rest assured,that I'm as at ease in sandbagging,as you are in talking out your ass. Hint. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart for TRYING though.

PLEASE "tell" me "more"!

Hint.

LAUGHING!

WOW +P++++!!!!!.................

I didn't discover anything, dumass, I just came up with an expedient way to accomplish some inclination. I have no doubt that others did the same though I didn't see it. Most, like you, simply buy their answers. Need some elevation, buy some signature rings or an inclined base. That is the easy way and the way you, with your plethora of damaged brain cells, have to use. That's OK. You are what you are. GD

dumbdog,

The only things you "shoot" are your mouth and Imagination...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Your Delusional Dumbfhuqktitude is HILARIOUS and your replies yet shorter,you Lying Piece Of Fhuqking Schit. I very MUCH enjoy how "real" your Imagination and Pretend are to you! Hint. LAUGHING!

Sadly,I've never seen a base with inclination either. Hint.

LAUGHING! Pardon only 60MO/MO's on the 'doo. Google it all. Hint.




PLEASE "tell" me "more",because you REALLY are doing "great"! Hint. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart for TRYING,you Drooling Fhuqktard.

Hint.

Laughing!.............

Ugly Stick,


Are you here? Oh well. I hear you are a annoying sumbit...ch
anyway. I’m not missing anything I’m sure. I would like to see your ugly rifles though just to see for myself how ugly they are.


Happy Trails


Bob

Boob,

Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so you can "afford" to "contribute"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

At least you "get" to gawk Splendid Pixels of Exceptional Wares as you "live" vicariously. Hint. LAUGHING!








You Drooling Fhuqktards are a HOOT! Hint. Laughing!

Bless your heart for trying though.

Hint.

Laughing!....................

I have to admit, that is a decent fish. I'd have to do some serious photoshopping to get any of our little mountain trouts to show that well. I need a half dozen to make a meal!
Recent? GD

dumbdog,

You are sucking the wrong ass. Hint. Congratulations?!?

I've not been fishing in 25yrs+. Hint. LAUGHING!




Bless your heart.

Hint.

Laughing!...................

where are the pics of sis, how is she doing these days.

I be she's hang in there.(grin) Prolly should go Bear Hunting this evening,in the rain.

Hint..................

I wouldn't be surprised to learn it's been years since you could lever your sorry ass off the couch and down to the river but was curious. With photoshop and stuff, it's hard to believe a photo. Especially one from a world class source of make-believe BS. Really entertaining but I've had enough of your crap for now. If you should ever have something to say, other than your same old tired shidt, go ahead and post it. Something I don't already know would be good. I know, I know, forgive you for having pretended to do it all. GD

dumbdog,

It's your Imagination,simply Pretend with it as you MUST...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You are simply devoid the faculties,to begin to have an inkling to the magnitude and rest ASSURED,that is the funniest fhuqking part! Hint. LAUGHING!

It'll only come as a "surprise" to you,that you were DONE,long before you even "thought" you had "started". Read that again. now one more time. Hint.

Pardon Facts overloading your pointy head and crossed eyes,in such reliable fashion. Hint. Laughing!



Now you can say you've actually "seen" a shim,which makes it a VERY big day for you. Hint.

LAUGHING!



Bless your heart for doing your best,with what INCREDIBLY fhuqking little you "have" to "work" with.

Hint.

Laughing!...................

Ugly Stick,

When you get a real job and can afford quality equipment of your own (social media influencer exempt) , I will teach ya' a thang or two.


Happy Trails


Bob

Boob,

It's your Imagination,simply Pretend with it as you MUST. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You'd need a co-signer for the tape. Hint. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart for trying though.

Hint.

Laughing!.................

You poor stupid fuuck, how the fuuck do you roll outta bed every mornin? You stupid tacticool flatbill fuucks are funny, that’s for sure!! Make sure to loc tite, bed weld wtf makes you feel warm and fuzzy!!! 😂😂😂

Sorry Ma'm...I couldn't hear your Whine,through your mask. Hint. Congratulations?!?



Bless your heart for Crying.

Hint.

LAUGHING!..............

Hey pard, turn my flat bill sideways, hold the light, and watch this!!! Haha

You stupid kelpbed and spotlight dummy....

Now that you guys have settled down a bit.

You can “bed” the bottom of your scope base so that it conforms exactly to the receiver when tightened up... just like you do with your stock, but you put the bedding on the bottom of the base “AFTER” you sand blast the bottom of the base so the bedding material adheres well.

If you do it make sure the action is upside down when you let it cure... be sure to have the threads coated well.

NotShooter,

Now who woulda' thunk. Hint. Congratulations?!? LAUGHING!

You gals are a hoot! I am gonna try me some of them 'Horn Rings though! Hint.



Bless your heart for trying.

Hint.

LAUGHING!............

Wait! What would Stick do??? God bless him...

I don’t shoot heavy recoilers. I do A couple of .308 Win and a .270.
I put the bases and bottom halves of the rings on. Put the rear top half ring on and tighten 15 inch/lbs.
If scope touches bottom half of front ring, I remove the back top half ring and put on the front top half and tighten it.
If there is a discrepancy in height I measure it with a feeler gauge and apply shims of that thickness Under the Required base.
I use later lock tire 242 and tighten the base screws with it.