I have Remington 760, 81 or 83 30-06. The brass has been coming out very hot. I don't remember it doing that before.
Imr4350 54.5,. With partions. Remington brass with wlr. I don't recall the hot brass in past

And then last time,and this may be indication, it split 2 brass out of 25. Brass had been sized years ago,and tumbled after. Someone though cases seemed like they had lube split on neck length of body.brass was only fired twice.

I did remove barrel in 2016 to replace oring. Shot maybe 200 times since

I picked up box factory ammo this weekend, and when I get home will see if the brass is hot . If not hot, I am going to clean my brass to see if lube is issue

I also stuck a mop in barrel from chamber. I do clean barrel a lot,but not chamber.

I've gotten this rifle to 1" with cold shots.

Opinions on hot brass? Thanks

Fired brass is very hot from everything 22lr and up.

Bolts are not hot. 300 win mag, same load in 30-06, cold. Maybe doing lots of shooting to heat barrel it is possible.

I think semi autos may be hot due to gas. But not a bolt.

Zerk, my experience is that brass is hot coming out of the chamber. Just get a few down your neck. Your 4350 load is very moderate and shouldn’t cause case neck splitting. I regularly load 56.5 gr for my 30-06 and it’s still below max. I’m thinking it’s brittle brass. Just a bad batch. I had a box of that some years ago and threw it away. Remember that you’ve set off a (hopefully) controlled explosion in that case - that means a lot of heat. If the chamber (and I’d be surprised if your chamber damaged) is OK then just use a different batch of brass.

Go shoot a round in backyard from a bolt. I have been doing lots of shooting lately. 300 win mag and 30-06 yesterday. Brass is not hot from a bolt.

I am not sure if pump is exact same as bolt if there is a way for gas to blow back. I don't have pump with me.

What is your experience with bullet impact on split case? I am getting ready for hunt and concerned about shot placement if brass cracks

I have never had a bolt operated rifle through brass down my neck,that I recall. Again I suspect the difference is gas operated guns.

Years ago I had a BAR in 243. The ejected brass was always too hot to pick up as soon as it was ejected. Never figured out why. A bolt doesn’t eject hot brass. Why the little Browning did, I never figured out.

It's a gas gun, brass will be hot. BAR, Remington or whatever other semis are all the same.

If you could operate a bolt gun extremely fast you would get some pretty warm brass. Not as hot as brass from an auto but pretty warm. With a bolt you're probably 2-3 seconds or more after firing before you spit that brass out in your hand, it's already cooled a bunch.

No surprise brass heats up as it just had a hell of an explosion go off inside of it.

Did the brass that split put shots in the same place as non split loads on the range?

One of shots was low. Not sure about other.

I ordered some starline brass. I got tons of Remington. But I got trip coming up and I want this as back up

I hope sleeping dog ammo is legit. It came up on ammo seek.


Back to pump does some of the gas blow open slide? Some people saw their slide opens. I always wondered if that is some kind of wear. Of course I don't think about it when shooting

If they open easy a lot of times they come part way open on firing. At least 1 of mine was that way.

Would gas then exit back,heating brass?

I am going to have to go buy one just to find out

Yup

You're overthinking this. 10 gauge answered your question. No other action ejects brass as quickly as an auto. That's the difference

Yep

On a 760 it's not gas, it's mechanical and it's only because you're shooting off the bench. Upon firing it disengages your action lock. It's all happening in milliseconds and it would be like after firing if your bolt was all the way up on a bolt gun ready to be pulled back. Difference is the forearm is being utilized as your bolt handle and it is setting on a front support. The rifle recoils back into your shoulder then front again pushing the pump (bolt) slightly open, or sometimes very open. Very hot brass is not uncommon as it had no chance to cool in the chamber.

Shoot it normal and not off the bench and you will notice the brass isn't near as hot, or not at all, because your action will stay closed immediately after firing.

Again, do pump's brass get hot or not? Bolts do not I was shooting different times with hot brass. Same brass in bolt, not hot or splitting.

I bolt I shot 75 or so, no splitting.
I have ejected brass fast and slow on bolts, it is not hot. With pump it is not warm, it is hot.

I have my doubts it has anything to do with how long in chamber. The rifle is cold. Slow shooting.

Maybe slide is opening and allowing gas to heat brass. Odd I never thought about this before. It is very hot.

With a bolt action the fired case stays in the chamber long enough for the chamber/barrel to act as a heat sink, drawing a lot of the heat from the case.

direct impingement gas gun equals hot
piston driven gas gun equals slightly cooler
bolt gun equals nice and cool...

Of course they get hot. Just had an explosion in there. Your brass from a bolt action does too.

You cannot open a bolt that fast after firing otherwise that brass would be hot too.

Try shooting an M249 with a short-sleeved shirt. Knowledge will come from that experience!

Go shoot one off in backyard, so you know

Quoting on this forum sucks on phone.

Some of you need to shoot more.

👍🏻👍🏻

The faster the cyclic action of your gun, the hotter the brass is when it exits the chamber.

Sitting in the chamber sucks heat from the brass. Brass from a bolt gun is cooler simply because the contact with the barrel has cooled it. Wait a second to cycle the action on your pump, and that brass will come out cool also.

ALL brass gets hot as the cartridge is fired. The flame temp is hot enough to erode and micro crack steel.

Again, the difference is how long the brass maintains contact with cool barrel steel, and how much heat is extracted from the brass before you touch it.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/65925/view/posts/page/1

Where you been for the last six years?

LOL. In reading your original inquiry, we have a pretty good idea on how much you actually shoot.

It's a gas-operated auto, brass gets hot - every time.

I have probably shoot 300+ 30-06 and 300 win mag this summer and 100 243.
It has nothing to do with sitting in chamber. I am shooting on a bench. I have left bolt brass into see. Nope cold

I am doing cold barrel shooting also.

Go shoot one off in backyard you will see. Bolt is cold, nothing to do with cycle time. Gas rifles the gas is blowing back.

Go shoot and report back.

I do not have any gas operated hunting rifles. Other than 22. Got a good idea how well you know guns. 760 is a pump

Apparently reading comprehension is not a strong suit of mine this morning.

740 is semi auto. But I get if not your gun,you don't keep track of numbers.

The reason I mentioned semi auto is because they are common, and bar was mentioned

This is the answer

Is this about you talking yourself into buying another gun?! Lol!

Seriously though, I've had a couple cracked cases in my shooting past, I remember them sounding differently and impact was not the same. I might suspect your brass here, and try another brand to compare and see you've got different brass coming. Does the hot/cracked brass look any different at all? Other than the crack of course. Any "blowback" or discoloration at the neck? Please post your findings after using the different brass.

300 win mag this morning. Cold brass.

🙄

I've got a 100 yard range. So I do a bit of shooting at times

Yes, the gas is blowing back, into a gas tube, and pushing on a piston.

WOW! Many of us shoot that in a weekend. Weekend after weekend. ETA: Heck I thought that was 300 each of 30-06 and 300 mag. Scratch that weekend crap. Make it a day.

STOP and read again what everyone is trying to tell you. Sitting in the chamber does not heat the brass. Sitting in the chamber cools the brass.

AGAIN! A gas operated gun cycles the action faster than a pump, which is faster than a bolt. The gas from a gas gun does not flow into the chamber. It pushes upon a piston which operates the action. Just exactly like the forearm operates the action on the 760.

This is true whether it is a 742, an 1100, an AR, Garand, M 14. The gas does not re-enter the chamber to re-heat the brass.

A caveat, I have never had my hands on a DI AR. I think the gas pushes against a piston which is part of the bolt. But I may be wrong about that.

All of the others listed have a gas chamber, and a piston, to drive the bolt. Many of them have an op-rod separating the piston from the bolt.

Bottom line, gas operation does nothing to make brass hotter at exit. It does something to prevent cooling of the brass before it is ejected. There is a significant difference.

I once (ONCE) shot gophers out the car window with a BA-22 while wearing shorts. ONCE!!! My teen-aged inner thigh was branded by Remington.......

I'm thinking that 55+gn of smokeless might-could heat up a piece of brass pretty good. I know that ~25-27gn of powder, an AR-15, and a naive prairie-dog town can make for some mighty hot 223 brass.

Once again, just like the recently resurrected "Onothergun" we have an old account brought back to life.

Just like the first few threads recently started by "Anothergun" it is a silly assed question with an easy answer provided from several knowledgeable shooters which the OP incessantly argues against. He denies the simple laws of Physics.

A different sock from the same keyboard?

I was originally sure "Anothergun" was "Maser" screwing around. But more recent posts have indicated knowledge which "Maser" has never shown in the past.

I have a different suspect in mind as originator of these socks. Someone who mysteriously has been absent some three weeks now. Someone who announced exciting things to come before his absence.

Because no one who has actually pulled the trigger on a rifle without blowing his leg off, or killing a bystander could be as obtuse as this sock is pretending to be.

Bolt action??

No surprise like I have said.

Why I didn't engage any farther past my one post. What's the point?? Explained in detail what was happening and why, trying to be helpful. It's normal, and even stated it was because he was shooting off the bench. Even though he never stated he was shooting off the bench I knew he was. Explained it wouldn't happen if he shot it in a normal field position and kept the pump closed momentarily same as a bolt.

Very next post was by him......."Again, do pump's brass get hot or not? Bolts do not"

One of my buds and I were taking turns shooting our Garands and when he shot, one of the cases came close enough to me that, without thinking, I caught it. It stuck to my palm and a gave me a couple of blisters reminding me that I probably shouldn’t do that again. 🔥😳

I’m thinking he’s a troll. For real.

No I am from the UP.

Go shoot bolt action 300 win mag today, stone cold brass. Yesterday 30-06 bolt, 56 grains and cold. Before you call me a troll, go fire off a round in the back yard. You will feel stupid for running your mouth.

Garand is a semi auto rifle, that operates off gas. It is not a bolt rifle. So has nothing to do with this discussion at all.

But the reason I came here is talk about pumps. Does any in this discussion own one?

Yes, 760 in 30-06. Since 1965. The 742 was slightly earlier.

I never fired more than 200 rnds of 30-06 in a day, along with, 100 25-06, and 100 22-250, plus a few 12 ga, and a schit pile of rimfire. A typical Saturday after payday 2x/month May through July.

If you are real, you should get out and shoot a little bit, and maybe learn something.

But, most likely a troll sock. I find it amuzing to play along.

I never said 200 in a day, I said this summer. What is with people not being able to read? People accuse me of not shooting, when it is obvious they don't, don't pay attention, or are not up to learn. I challenge someone to get a hot brass from a bolt.

I came here because when googling, I came across a discussion on 760s. My theory with the pump is when you press the trigger it releases the slide. Maybe gas blows back at the same time. Which is different than a bolt.

I also put a punch on it to see if I could tighten barrel. I didnt try real hard, just in my lap. But not grossly loose. I drilled mine to fit 1/4 punch. Factory hole is for 3/16, and they kept bending



Funny thing about the people calling me a troll here, is they cannot read, and do not know there rifles. And they don't shoot. But they do excel at being _________, if not helpul in the least.

The 742 predates the 740, hence the 4. The 740 and 742 is a semi auto, which is operated by gas. The 760 is a pump.

When you want to be a dick, you need to be right, and you need to be able to read atleast.

First post of the thread. Can anyone help? Maybe I just don't remember the brass being hot ejecting from pump rifle. This weekend, I shot bolts and 4570 lever, they do not eject hot. I am doing cold barrel shots, so I can't say what happens if you heat the barrel up.

My theory is when the pump is released after pulling the trigger gas is blowing back. But I do not know if that is correct, if there is an issue with gun, or just how a pump rifle is.

I am shooting on a bench, so this is not a matter of how long it stays in the chamber.

Back to the split brass. I did put a drop of rem lube on bolt. I have not lubed with anything other than rem oil in past. I watched a youtube video about lubing metal on metal. Ya what you will hear. I wonder if I got lube where it should not. Respected friend mentioned lube as cause , and though case seemed like it might have be slippery, or just handled alot. It was in my pocket.


The reason I am so pressed on this is I am getting ready for first elk/mule deer hunt, and I need a back up rifle. Hopefully if it does not reain today will shoot pump

Why tighten barrel??

If you tighten the barrel you would change headspace.

I am not so sure the bolt would lock into the barrel if loose either as the lugs may not line up and rotate to lock into the barrel every single time you shut the action.

I answered the question in one post.

LOL! What the Holy phucghk are you talking about?????? You are not even doing a good job of trolling. Your question was "Does any one own a 760?"

Who even mentioned the 740??????????

Yes we acquired a 742 in 30-06 as (a semi-auto) as Mom's deer rifle. Six months or so later we acquired a 760 (pump) in 30-06 as Dad's deer rifle.

They handed the 141 and the 14 down to me and my brother.

Wrong. The 740 was first. The 742 was an improvement

It has nothing to do with time in chamber. The bolt and pump are shot off bench.

Other people brought of 742. I then tried to explain to them those are gas operated and not the same.

I am not trying to troll. Just trying to see if Anyone knows what they are talking about. Should the brass be hot on a pump? Nothing to do with cycle time.

Reason I showed up after years is a thread came up when googling.

I left the site because a lot of a holes that want to talk guns and the software was the worse I ever saw a few years ago.

I've been on forums over 20 years, and it was awful.

Again same time in chamber, should brass be hot out of pump? If you think it comes out of bolt hot, you should be quite

..

People calling me troll need to go shoot , and not talk until then

Once again, it will be hot if shot off of the bench and forearm slides partway back upon firing.

If you know the answer why quiz others?

And yes, it would come out of a bolt hot if you could get it out in less than 1/4 second.

Maybe not, in light of recent news.

You are exhibiting less than 1/10 the firearms knowledge compared to several who correctly answered your question.

Perhaps you are a knowledgeable shooter, and are only pretending to be stupid. The fact is, temperature of brass exiting the chamber is purely dependent upon cyclic rate.

AGAIN.....the tenths of a second it takes to reach up and open the bolt on a rifle allows the barrel to extract heat from the brass.

If you exert pressure on the forearm of your 760 before and as you pull the trigger, you can open the bolt almost as fast as a gas gun.......while the brass is STILL hot.

BUT, if you leave the bolt locked on the 760 for even a second, the brass will exit as cool as it does from a bolt rifle. TRY IT!

The brass in the bolt rifle gets just as hot as it does in a pump or in a semiauto. The brass from the bolt gun just gets cooled down before you get a chance to touch it.

AGAIN.....this has all been said several times on this thread.

It can not be put any more simply than this. If you refuse to admit the truth of these answers, that is on you.

If you actually believe the things you state on this thread, you should pick up and READ a few reference materials on internal ballistics. Rounds sent down range would not hurt anything either.

My 760 always ejects hotter than normal brass. Even if you let it sit in the chamber for a minute before ejecting. I have noticed that if the chamber has a light coat of oil, it’s worse. I try to keep the chamber dry on that gun.

NO. The brass shouldn't be hot. I'd advise you to stop shooting it until a gunsmith can repair the ejector timing.

Thank, someone who has shot a pump. I hope the members seeing the emperor's new clothes don't turn on you for stepping forward. You are a brave man.

Yes, letting it sit in the chamber does nothing. It would cool a lot faster in open air, than it would in the chamber. And yet it is hot, after I get up, look around for it and grab it.

The rest of you who believe with a bolt it makes a difference leaving it in the chamber need to shoot your rifle. You are not correct.

Today I also found a thread on PAhunting forum about this. No answer but the guy noticing it with his pump. Those guys are big into pumps because 100 hear old semi autos scare them.

On my 760, you stick a bunch into the slide tighen the barrel to the body. I had it off in 2016 to change the o-ring. So I tried to turn it to prove it wasn't grossly loose. Just checking the gun is in proper order, especially since I had it apart at one time.

The 760 is similar to a shotgun in how it goes together.

They vary in years on how the barrel comes off. some years you do not have to remove the barrel to replace oring.

I am not sure how the headspace is actually set. This is to make sure the barrel is physically attached.

So we got some guys saying of course it is hot, and some saying it isn't. Have you shot a pump rifle lately?

Well HELL!

The answer is obvious. Remington 760 barrels are built of a magic steel with insulating properties. The barrel must be laminated of two layers of steel with a fiberglass mat between.

Nothing else could possibly explain the (apparently) observed low coefficient of conductivity of Rem 760 barrels.

Good thing I never owned or shot any of the 3 or 4 I owned.

I will move on now.

So do you believe the brass should or should not be hot when ejected from a bolt? Do you believe time makes a difference?

When is the last time you shot your pump, and when is the last time you shot a bolt?

You believe the brass is shedding a 100 degrees in 1-3 seconds?

I was reading on another forum, where I guy called to ask about slide open after shot. They said yes. So I sent them an email asking. After bankrupcy I don't know what to expect. Not in their current line up. But can't hurt

I'll put it this way. Even when hunting, my ejected brass does not touch the ground.

I partially open the bolt and pluck the brass out of the action/eject it into my hand, and put it in my pocket. Yes, with the 760 as well. I hunted with the 760 several years. Doubtful???? I detest digging through snow for empties. I hate searching through the grass and weeds almost as much. It is an ingrained habit forty years old.

Ain't never been burned yet!

My ammunition consumption has slowed from some years ago. I have only fired three hundred rounds over the last three weeks through seven rifles.
4 260 Rem, 2 7-08 Rem, 1 264 Win, 1 6mm Rem, 1 244 Rem, 1 7mm RM

How hot do you think the flame temp is inside a 65,000 PSI chamber?????????

Probably much more than 100 degrees in much less than 3 seconds. Though I have never seen recordings or documentation.

So you are disagreeing with people who say brass is hot when fired?

We have three possibilities, which bring me here. I know bolt brass is cold. What I don't know is the 760 always been hot, and I forgot.

All brass is hot because it went boom. A bolt would be hot if you could operate the bolt 2 seconds faster.
Bolt brass is cold, 760 brass is hot
Bolt and pump should have cold brass. 760 brass should not be hot and something is wrong with the rifle

A number of people are making this argument. I do not agree. The reason being, the brass is hot after I get up, and go pick up the brass. I do not believe it is going to cool super fast in the chamber of a bolt, as opposed being in the air.

maybe because it does not lock up as tight as bolt? It opens as soon as it shot. More lube, easier it will open.



When the trigger is pulled the locking mechanism is disengaged on the bolt, allowing you to slide it back. Some of this may happen naturally with recoil.

My theory is, this is what allows the gas to blow back towards brass, heating it up. But again, I just can't remember if it was hot last year. It has been hot the times I shot this year, but now I am focusing on it.

My rifle was my grandfathers only deer rifle. He was an avid beagle/rabbit hunter. When deer season came, he put down the 870 and picked up the 760. I drooled over that rifle as a kid. I doubt he ever stopped to pick up a piece of brass so never noted it. Me coming from bolts noticed it right away. I believe there is something to the action lock up being released so fast. On this one the action is partially open after firing. It only gets very mild loads, 56 grains of IMR4350 and 165 interlock is tops.

IIRC Remington changed something with the lock up when they went to the 7600. I know there are more locking lugs, but I recall there was something else as well. Lee (Redneck) on here might know the details.

Barrel steel is a much better conductor of heat than is air.

Unlike the older 14 and 141, the 760 uses an artillery style interrupted thread to lock the bolt. The forearm does not actually lock the bolt. The threads on the front of the bolt lock into threads in the barrel.

Subtle difference!

Pulling back on the forearm rotates the bolt, allowing it to disengage the threads in the barrel. If the bolt comes out of battery (unlocks) without pulling back on the forearm (incidentally, the opposite direction the forearm would be driven by dragging on a bench during recoil) You have a very serious problem which should be addressed by a competent gunsmith.

As I said earlier, if you pull hard on the forearm before pulling the trigger. You can cycle the bolt quite rapidly and eject brass that is fairly warm, but still not as hot as an autoloader.

Again, gases do not blow back and heat the brass. If it did, it would burn hell out of your face, and blind you without proper eye protection. Possibly even with.

In order for gas to flow, it must have an exit. Remember you are working with 60,000 psi enclosed a few inches from your face.

My Uncle had an example of a 760 which allowed gas to flow back in the late 60s. It destroyed the forearm, buttstock, and action. It also put him in the Hospital for several days. He replaced the rifle with a Rem 700. The rifle, after the catastrophe was left hanging in the basement rafters over the reloading bench for several decades.

No, & I doubt that you have either. I'm just trying to shut you up in hopes you'll go away. I think you're related to Another Chihuahua.

On mine it release when you pull the trigger. Nothing to do with pulling on forearm. it will not release unless you pull trigger or or hit release button.

I do not believe leaving brass in battery for a second in a bolt is what cools it. Not long enough time. On the bench I am not ejecting fast, so about same as bolt.

Semi autos blow gas back and they don't hurt you. So why would it if some goes back as bolt comes slightly out of battery? Not like your face is right up the chamber. I am not sure I am right, but I don't think you are either.

Also reading about them relasing when fired, people tend to say it does it more with hotter loads. So factory might not do it,

Every 760/7600 the bolt is disengaged from its lock lug abutments by pulling the forend rearward. The bolt lock lever is just a wedge that sits behind the action bar preventing the forend from being pulled rearward until you trip the button or the connector trips it after the hammer falls when the trigger is pulled. The bolt head is rotated and disengaged by two cams on the action bar assembly that the bolt head is controlled by.

Locking lugs on the 760 are an interrupted thread type and there are a bunch of small lugs and corresponding lug abutments in the barrel extension. 7600s use the same system but with 4 locking lugs instead of nearly 2 dozen.

Neither of them unlock before pressure has dropped and the bullet has left the barrel. Same for the auto loading 740/742/7400/750.

NO! Semiautos do not blow gas back. Not in the way you are describing. Semis direct a small amount of gas into a cylinder where it pushes upon a piston. After the piston drives the bolt open, that gas is bled off.

It does not flow over or into the brass.

If you do not believe how serious the effects of leaking gas can be, just wrap your hand around the barrel-cylinder gap on a revolver.

Even a 22lr will hurt you.

If the bolt on a centerfire rifle including a Rem 760 is coming unlocked under pressure, some coroner would be extracting said bolt from your brain.

The 740s have a port that lets gas out. I do not know the path. But it is going back, and gas was in barrel.

No ,pulling on the forarm does not release forearm. You need to hit the button, or pull the trigger. Mine is sitting in my living room, I 100% know this no debate on it.

Pretty simple to prove, rack it, and try racking it back. Will not budge on my year, I doubt it will on yours either. Just like a shotgun, you need to release it.

You know what one of the problems with America today is, if you don't back slap, 100 % agree, slob their knob, you are called a troll. You can't have your own opinion. I think these people are bi-political, not sure rules on politics here, so I won't say there bi-tendcies. But they are in the closet for the party they say they are not. It is tendency of those people not to allow other people to have an opinion. They may be pro gun, so they think they are that type of person. But they really have tendencies of the other.

You may find this slightly trolling, but I think it is just a fact. If you get offended decide why. Maybe you have some deep seeded feelings.

Also find it sad, on site about guns, hunting, ect, people call you a troll for disagreeing. These people need to get permission from their wife to go deer camp. Get in a good arguement of best deer cartidge, best time to hunt, ect. Its not trolling, its being a man with your own opinion.


Then when you are doing yourself reflection on your beliefs, you need to admit if you are wrong. If you are and don't you are farther in the closet than you still can admit.

Everybody is entitled to their opinion. But if you make it public and it's shaky on the facts or simply plain bullshit then you can expect to be called on it.

You can google this debate on many gun forums. Some say gas some say it is not in the chamber long enough to cool down. I think this people can be easily confused with semi autos. With the pump it is no ejected at a fraction of second on the bench like a semi auto would be, by design.

While air is not a great conducter, I think when you consider 5-10 seconds after you shoot, to pick up brass, more time that the 1 second it remains in bolt to cool, I find this theory difficult.

I think that is what you have to think about. Do you believe all the heat is bled off in 1-2 seconds versus 5-10+ seconds on ground. I am not convinced. Plus I am shooting this pump of a bench, which makes chamber times similar to pump.

You don't have to rack it out of pump, just cause you fired shot.

Would you rather be right in the future, or feel good, by having me not talk about it? Come out of the closet.

Go shoot a pump, and do not eject. Than you will releazie the theory that an extra 1-2 seconds in the chamber transfers the heat, as opposed to 10-15 seconds on the ground. Think about those numbers.

I left this forum cause full of a holes and software was awful. The software is better. But the quoting function is still awful. You quote a person and you end up 5 quotes, so you can't see what is being discussed.

I don't know of another forum with this bad of software, Which is what I was saying about you guys 5-7 years ago. Can't you find some free ware software that is better?

I started out on BB in the 80s, and I just don't remember them being so bad. But time is funny

There are people on here that think bolt rifles have hot brass too. So what is it?

You guys need to go shoot some guns. All I can say. Don't post until you shoot a rifle.

Lets keep in mind all these opinions have been expressed in this thread.

AGAIN! Pulling the trigger does NOT release the BOLT. Which is a different thing entirely from releasing the forearm. That is the point many of us have been trying to make.

Pulling the trigger releases the lock which prevents racking the slide. Racking the slide releases the bolt!!

Pull the trigger without touching the forearm. The bolt will remain in battery.

If it does not work this way. Get the gun to a gunsmith right now! Or else cut it in half with a torch.

The problem today in America is when people develop unfounded beliefs they hold with religious conviction, even while those beliefs are contrary to any reality, and contrary to the laws of Physics.

I can not find any discussion of gas venting from the gas tube on the 742. It MAY vent into the forearm as the gas piston is driven backwards. I had a shotgun which was vented that way.

Or the gas may simply flow back into the barrel at the gas port and then out the muzzle as the barrel achieves atmospheric pressure.

What we do know with certainty, operating gas does not flow back into the barrel at or around the chamber. There are no ports there for it to do so.And there are certainly no ports in the barrel of the 760.


Obviously, operating gas is bled off somewhere. Find a schematic which shows this release port.


What makes you think so? How did you measure this "gas going back"?

As long as you hold to this mythical belief that barrel steel can not act as a heat sink to cool the brass before ejection. There is nothing more we can do to elucidate this subject to you.

Note this pressure trace graph of a typical high velocity rifle cartridge. Time for the chamber to return to atmospheric pressure is one Millisecond.

https://www.quora.com/External-Ballistics-Does-a-bullet-accelerate-after-leaving-the-barrel

That is, if you are actually interested in learning something.

Ok I phrased that wrong. Pulling the trigger releases the forearm, which when you then pull back with your hand releases bolt. But you cannot pull bolt back until trigger is pulled or release button is pressed. But I was wrong about my wording and the order.


If I do not rack the shell out for 2 seconds, it should than be cold as bolt, because the heat will transfer to the steel? Bench shooting I don't typically rack out when I shoot, because of my posistion, bolts I do. It may actually stay in the chamber longer, with the pump.

So, if you know the answer, why are even asking?

I stated earlier. It is all due to the magic insulated steel Remington used in the barrel of the 760.

I will jump back in.

What does the fired brass from the pump look like??

Already asked... without an answer...

LOL Even a Troll has entertainment value. You just have to go in with the proper attitude. AND a good sense of humor.

Momma has Jim Gaffigan on Netfix on TV.

Between a celebrated stand up comedian and this thread........this is funnier.

Must still be too hot to pick up and inspect.

Where the Hell is Stick when we need him? If anyone could use a good stick beating it's this genius.

Sorry I have a job. I am stilling wanting you to agree that brass shot from a bolt, and brass shot from a pump, both from a bench will have different temps, because pumps are ejected quick. But I am, shooting from a bench, and maybe the pumped brass is in the chamber longer than bolt.

This is where we left off before I went to work. Please agree or disagree to above statement.

Then there is you who can't agree if bolt shot brass is cooler. Some say it is hot, some say it is cold because it takes one second longer to eject.

I am waiting for you to turn on each other. I don't really consider this part trolling, because you pretend the other is not in the room.

At first you guys said bolts and pumps were same.

Which is it??

Lets not turn on each other.

half to two seconds makes a difference, even though brass is hot to the touch 10-15 seconds later on ground.

I just want to make sure we all agree.

Does anybody still think this site still has some of the worse software on the internet? When I first came here it was just awful useless. Never seen a worse forum. Now it is ok, but the quoting sucks.

Mostly I think it has awful functionality. But animated ads suck to. Usually you only have to put up with that on site you are lurker on, and not logged in. I guess this is just a site full of city boys with high speed internet.


I bet some of you agree with me this site sucks, with regard to this, but won't say anything. This can't be the only forum you are on.

No problems quoting here.

Another quote.

I have never seen a site qoute like this. The embeded quotes are unique this site. Ever other forum I have been on, when you hit the quote button you just quote the post that you hit the quote button.

If we don't agree on this, I am going to accuse you of not being honest. I hate doing that to people I don't know. But this is unique.

Another quote unique to this site.

Same here, just hit the quote button.

So again, what does the "hot" brass look like??

You don't think this is unique to this site???????

Have you been on any other forum with software like this?

Like I said I am not sure why this site is so awful. 2017 it was just backwards and barely useable. Now it is modernish, but the quoting is unique to this site.

Be honest.

I don't expect you to be honest, but I think even if you don't admit to me or yourself, you know.

I guess I don't get what you're saying. I hit the quote button and it quotes the post.

Don’t know why you keep asking. You obviously know why there’s a difference in temperatures of ejected brass because you called 🐃💩, and have rejected everyone’s ideas and theories so what is it oh Exalted and Omniscient One ?

You gotta be smarter than the equipment you (try to) operate. Yip yip yip. Just like another chihuahua.

I am not convinced with the theory held by some, not all here, that the pumps brass is ejected faster, so it is hotter. Because as I have stated many times I am shooting off a bench, it may be in the chamber longer than a bolt. Not sure how many times I can write this. I am on a bench, I am not ejecting a pump quickly like I would if I was standing.

Ok it is the best software out there. But you can at least be honest and admit it is different than every other forum out there that i am aware of, by the way it embeds quotes? Can you be honest about that?

Most forums when you quote someone, it does not include the quote they quoted. You can be honest and admit that is what makes this site special?

I am working more on this theory.
Maybe because the bolt opens. People also discuss heavier loads opening the bolt more.
On a PA forum they were discussing the 760 being hot and brass size and how the brass chambers.. Some people suggest small base sizing dies for 760.

I think what is going on is more a function of the design of the rifle. Shooting off a bench like I am, tends to disprove the theory that bolt brass sits in the chamber longer and that is why it is cooler.

5 pages?


My head hurt before finishing 2.

I will quote my quote asking the question of what does the fired brass look like?

Many of us would have no idea. We participate in this site.

We do not spend our lives trolling a myriad of sites, so that we can bitch and moan over a service provided for free.

If you don't like the way Rick runs the 'Fire, find a site you do like.

I am not disagreeing it is a free site, don't like it leave. Which is what I did for years. Then when googling I came across a discussion 760s, but I repeat myself.

I am not sure I really believe, you think this software is typical.


But why do you think the brass is still hot, if I leave it in the chamber as longer or longer than a bolt, which is cold? I am waiting for your theory on this.

Typical, I have no idea. I have not visited any other discussion group, or Forum in about twenty years. Inexplicably, about the time I joined this one.

My theory is: You are as full of schitt as a Christmas Goose. Unless you can explain your variance from the Laws of Physics.

I already stated that when target shooting or hunting with the 760 in 30-06, I ejected the brass into my hand. It was not hot.

You said it hotter with a pump because it ejects so fast. Which is it?

But the whole reason I came here is to find out, if it is hot for other people, or is something wrong. Because I do not recall it being hot in the past. But I may simply not remember.


When hunting, you eject it into your hands, which would make a being ready for a second shot really slow. Even though only shooting once, I rack one to be ready. I find it odd a hunter would not. Also find it bad muscle memory, when hunting one should be racked and ready to go as soon as you pull the trigger. In my opinion.

I really don't know what I believe with you.

But you said your brass is cold when shooting pump.

Duh, exactly!

You CAN cycle the bolt fairly rapidly with a pump. You don't have to. I do not.

Why? Are you a poacher? Do you intend to kill a second deer?

Bad muscle memory? It is much worse to take your eyes off of the game to search the ground for that piece of brass you just tossed across the field. I really, really do not like to lose brass in the field.


Yes, If standing, I dismount the rifle from my shoulder, place the but against my groin. Pull the forearm with my left hand and catch the brass with my right hand. If prone, the rifle remains on the ground and butt against my shoulder while I move my right hand into a position to catch and pocket the brass before reloading.

If you had ever killed any game, you would realize there is no need to worry over a second shot after properly hitting a deer with a 165 gr ballistic tip from a 30-06. They either collapse on the spot with a CNS hit. Or they grunt, hump up in the middle, and dash 40 to 50 yds before falling over. I have never put more than one bullet into a deer.

Here, I will give you a little lesson on how it is done. First you have to buy an extremely accurate rifle. One capable of sub MOA accuracy. Then you put a scope on it good enough to let you hit two inch targets at 300 yds. Mine was a Weaver V7 2.5-7x32. Next: zero the rifle dead on exactly at 300 yds.

Then, find yourself a place to shoot. Someplace where you can burn 400 rnds of ammo in a day, at ranges up to 300 yds. Someplace where you can target one of these little guys with every shot. NO benches. No rests. Field positions just like deer hunting. Note- photo stolen from Dick. I have none depicting our squirrels. apologies if necessary.


Repeat this 400 rnds per day shooting ground squirrels out to 300 yds, six to eight times each spring for several years. When you can easily target a ground squirrel at 300 yds, deer are no challenge. They are just a massive, easy target. You will never again worry about needing a second shot on a deer. Heck your pulse will not race, there will be no stress, or excitement. It is just another target. A damned big and easy one at that. And if he is 400, 450 yds, no big deal. You just look at the drop chart taped to the butt stock and hold over the appropriate amount. Assuming no issues with wind. We really do not have wind issues in this terrain during big game seasons. If the weather is that bad, we wait for a better day.

You will have to intimately learn the trajectory of your bullet. How far to hold under at 100 yds, 150 yds, 200 yds, 250 yds. Again, range card taped to the butt stock. You are allowed to cheat today with a laser range finder. They did not exist when we were learning to shoot. Carlos Hathcock had no turrets and neither did we. I still have no use for them. But have somehow manged to get five or six into my safe.

Has that brass cooled off enough you can look at it and get back with us telling us how it looks or better yet post a pic of the hot brass?

Either I posted it, or the software here is to old to resize it for you, so I could not.

IMO even if the deer falls over from the first shot, you should always rack another in as soon as you pull the trigger. A rifle should be loaded and ready. But I don't have your ego.

I have probably wrote that in 75% of my posts. I am not sure if you are not paying attention, dumb, or screwing with me.

Even when in the saddle scabbard?

This is filling the freezer, not combat, nor "Call of Duty".

EGO???? LOL!!!!

If you can not tell if your shot was true, even before the bullet impacts. You need a lot more practice. It is known as "calling your shot". Of course, to do so, your eyes must be open when the gun fires.

I don't care if I see the animal fall over legs up, I am racking one in. I really didn't know there were people like you that would argue that.

What I don't like about bench shooting, it hinders that muscle memory.

I am starting to realize who you are, and the value of your input. Not about the racking one in, but in general. You contradict. Have not brough value to this conversation.

You should try hunting with a single shot, or black powder.

Value....I apprised you of many facts the last couple days. My public service.

Did you learn anything?

How old is that son now? Perhaps he would like to buy a real firearm some day and learn to shoot? Too bad about those ownership and registration laws in Cali.

What are you talking about?????

Son ?? CA?????? WTF are you babbling about?

I do hunt black powder. What public facts have you shared with me? I constantly tell you what I am seeing, and you don't even read it. You does ramble on with dumb ______.

I see.

My 760, a .35 Remington, throws the hottest brass I've ever felt and it's a very low pressured round ( 35,000 psi) compared to the .30-1906.

Did you finish 8'th grade? Your reading comprehension indicates not.

My public service was to offer you information about the subject of Physics and the laws of Thermodynamics in particular.

Heat travels from hot to cold.

Steel is a pretty good conductor of heat.

And then there is the science of internal ballistics.

The inside of a cartridge case is subjected to tremendous heat and pressure as the cartridge fires. The brass gets very hot, and is then subsequently cooled by contact with cold barrel steel. Steel with which the cartridge is in contact due to having been fireformed to fit the chamber.

It appears that your Zerk personality is adopting portions of your Slavek personality.

I've had at least half a dozen 760 rifles. I can't remember ever noticing hot brass. I've had one 742 and I was shocked how I couldn't even pick the brass up until it cooled off. I know I never had that with a 760

So did some shooting today. Interesting 165 grain factory corlockt cold. Hand loaded 180 partion/interlock 54.5 grains IMR4350 warm. Same load in bolt, cold. Not a physics tests, because both shooting off bench, and not racking rapidly.

7400 factory ammo, damn that is hot.

Now for something interesting. I bought some starline 30-06. Full length sized it. Would not shoot, dented primers. Tried multiple times could not get the primer to go off. Three rounds dented primers. Fired remington brass after that.

One of the things I don't like about pumps is you have to rack them hard. You can't sneak one in like you can a bolt. I have read to use small base sizing dies. IMO it is a flaw in the gun if you can't shoot ammo out of it.

All my shooting from this rifle has been remington brass, factory loaded or hand loaded


Another interesting thing remington factory brass has cold and silver primers.

You have more important worries than warm brass if your rifle only dented the primers on recent handloads.

Which is why I asked what brass looked like or pics long ago.

If there is a problem the heat could be a symptom. So yes, you should pay attention.
Shoots remington brass just fine.

Starline mics .004 bigger. is that enough? I don't know, isn't much. but pumps can be annoying. I have never used small sizing dies, I wonder id that makes a difference.


Shoots remmington factory and remington brass hand loaded, but dents star line. Yes, I expect some comments.

One theory is, thicker brass, not chambering.

It doesn't need a small base die.

I have loaded for at least 4 of them. Standard full length dies used in all applications.

Only difference is I usually ran a little bit more mild load in a pump.

Starline and Remington brass sized using the same die and die adjustment?

Same primers used in both handload?

Primer seated deeper in Starline brass??

I told myself I was not going to reply to you, cause I can't figure out if you are an idiot or just talking dumb.
Yes same primers, dumb question

Same sizing die, dumb question

Same load works in remington brass, dumb question.

I think I answered my own question, with you again.

Once again.

Primer depth?

What does fired brass look like for about the 4th time??

Actually forget it. Don't answer.

It doesn't matter what someone tells you if it isn't what you want to hear they are the idiot.

Don't forget, you're the one slinging schitt here, others are just trying to help yet you want to criticize them and call them names because they won't tell you what you want to hear.

I could call you a lot of different things but I will take the high road.

Move on, and go shoot a chipmunk with a revolver.

I get tired of repeating myself with you.

I think the moral of this thread is Zerk is a [bleep] idiot..

My theory is the starline is heavier premium brass. I have never used small base dies. But they are made for this it. Talks about them in reloading manuals for pumps. I also wonder about starline being semi new to bottle neck cartidges

One of the things I don't like about pumps is you have to rack it hard into battery. With a bolt, if the bolt is closed you are good.

I retired this gun for a few years, the rattle drove me nuts too. Replaced the oring. I like the stock on this rifle, it feels good. I was going to cut it down to 20". But now with Remington, I don't know. Though there are a ton of these out there. Which makes me laugh when people pay dumb money for them

I email starline, to see if they share an opinion.

I have considered in past getting small base die, so this racked nicer. But it works as is. If I did I would probably settle on brand of brass, and just stay with it, to make sorting easier. I have a ton of remington.

If you want help/ideas about an issue with brass, why not post photos so people can see what's going on?

Do you want a picture of a brand new starline?
The forum software is old here, I would have to send it to my computer resize it, and then post. It won't accept pics from a phone. I posted that a week ago.

I also feel like it is a waste of time with some here.

Reloading manuals talk about small base sizing dies. And some act like it is made up because they never did it. I never did it either, until I bought starline. I suspect it is a premium thicker brass. I would not be surprised if I bought other premium brass I encountered this too.

Then what's the issue??

Exactly what can one learn about a firearm from unfired brass?

Yet you call me an idiot?

I think 10mag is leading you in the right direction. let's forget about the hot brass for a minute. but some of the other issues you have mentioned you do need to check headspace. take it to someone and have it checked or at the very least get you a set of go/no-go gauges. start there.

I meant of the fired that had primer issues and stuff. You know, what you'd take to a gunsmith when you asked them about it. But no worries... I'm sure you'll figure it out on your own.

Now who lead you to that possible diagnosis??😎😎

The gunsmith will be called an idiot too.

And to think, this cat reloads and owns firearms.

Talk about a dangerous combination.

I tried to ask questions and help but only to be called an idiot.

I think that's like the pot calling the kettle black.

I will make it easy for you. See if these folks at Starline are idiots.

Read it all but pay attention once you get down to where it says "Splits and excessive headspace"

I really shouldn't continue to help you but I would feel bad if you hurt yourself or ruined what may be a nice rifle.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/artic...-Determine-the-Performance-of-Your-Load/

Clue #1 and you never even had to fire a round.

Pretty sure I already posted that I did.

I am also not the first person here to say they have seen that.


It is only hot on handloads, below max load. Maybe burn rate.

That is not why.

I can write something and you pretend you didn't read it. Like bolt vs pump temps, and time in chamber being the same.

Also firing one shot hunting, and then catching your round in your hand, is just weird to me.

Talk to people who own pumps, this a common thing. Hard may be over stating, but you can't rack it in slow and gentle like a pump.

Reloading manuals talk about small base dies, maybe that would help. I realize you don't acknowledge manuals.

I have owned 4, also stated multiple times. Never had to slam one to get bolt to lock up.

.. 👍

Keep overworking your brass. Hopefully you really don't have a headspace issue if you go this route.

He’s either a fecking troll or simply too stupid to be trusted with a weapon of any kind. Or both. That was apparent by the time this thread was on page 2. Just flush this azzhat.

Can he be both??

Have you ever read a reloading manual? This might part of the gulf between me and you.

Own several and have read through em all.

You? Maybe see if there is a section on headspace. Maybe see if it tells you anything case splits, hard chambering, light primer strikes etc.

Also see if anything is mentioned about primer seating depth.

If the manual has all of the answers why are you here?

I'm out. No need to try to teach someone who already has all of the answers.

So you don't believe them?

As for this, if a gun shoots one brass, and not the other, easiest thing to do is probably shoot the brass it likes.

But I will repeat myself, because that is what I do with you. Same primers, same press, same seating device. Only variable is the brass.

what have you taught me? How to kill squirels with a revolver? what answer have you had that I have not listened to?

And I repeat to you.

Depth is the keyword.

WTF does shooting squirrels with a revolver have to do with anything??

Sounds fun but I have never done it.

I sincerely doubt he does reload or own firearms, because with every post he sounds more and more like Elkslayer and Glockdoofus, and Slavek, and half a dozen other Maser sock puppets..

Except maybe he still owns those airsofts he proudly displayed pics of back when he was doing diaper and bottle pics.

But hell! It has been fun playing.

If it is not Maser, someone is doing a very great job or duplicating his performances.

When I reloaded for my 760's I used small based dies. I tried standard dies and had chambering issues

I'm in trouble now.

Discussing this on another forum, and someone said that same thing. Manual mentions for a reason. One of these days I should try it.

All the other components was the same, except the brand of brass. Mic in a few spots I came up with .004 difference. Not sure if that would actually be enough.

What I have wanted to do for awhile is have a dedicated brass for this pump. I carry extra rounds in my bag, and this gun shoots different bullets than others. I sharpie them, but different brass would make it easier.

I may use the small base dies on star line, or maybe try winchester. I've got a lot of remington too

My mistake wrong person.

I've shot deer in 3 foot deep snow. It slows them down enough to shoot again.

I just believe you should rack another one to be ready. Not sure the point in arguing this. Not sure the point of most of your posts, other than you want to ramble on.

I've shot many deer more than once. Even when using a 30-06. I shoot until they are off their feet or out of sight.

While I agree they typically go down or run so fast, you don't have time to shoot again, I have had a chance a handful of times. But I am not comparing myself to Carlos Hathcock.

The interesting one to see, was the 3 feet deep snow. We got 40+ inches days before the season opened. I missed the second shot. But it was like watching it drown in snow.

People could not get into many camps.

My phone doesn't have app to resize. Most forums don't need it. I would have to send to computer, resize and post or use a hosting site. Which I don't have. The pic above is a link to another site.

Did it help with split necks?

Link to another site yet has it as being quoted from here?? Got it.

This post confuses me.

The OP talks about having a 760 in opening post then we say we need to buy one to see if brass gets hot.


Can someone else line me out??

Starline replied back asking about if I bumped the shoulder back causing it to go to far forward. I suppose it is to far forward if if the primers dent but don't go off. I asked them if need to set my dies up just for their brass. They have not got back.

I really don't feel like setting my dies up just for one rifle.

I'll probably buy a small base die, after reading enough people using them, to see how it goes. I may buy brass I don't currently have in this caliber to make it easier to seperate. Not sure if it will be starline or not. I may save that for other projects.

As I wrote, but I am getting used to repeating myself with you, that pic with the dead rodents is from a file sharing site. I don't have an account with one. Most forums these days resize for you. It was common years ago to need to resize on computer.

I constantly repeat myself for you. I don't know if you have dementia, ignorant, or just a [bleep] disturber.


Go quote the the same pic, you will see the pic is a website. Normally I'd like to educate someone, but I really think you are just an _______. So I am an idiot for trying.

If your die doesn’t push the shoulder back far enough to make the once fired brass have excessive headspace and misfire it can’t push the shoulder of the Starline brass back any further.

Get out a reloading manual and read the chapter on sizing brass to fit your chamber. I don’t think you have as good a grasp on this as you think you do.

Don't have to have an account, 90% that post pics here probably dont, but keep trying.

The link is from imgur, the site he used to post the pic here. The quote is still from here.

anytime you start squeezing brass down it pushes up. unless your dye is screwed down far enough to limit the shoulder it will push up in the shoulder region. that's why properly adjusted dies always squeeze up and make the neck longer and that is why the trimming factor is in effect... if this statement goes above your head you need to quit reloading and start reading and understanding a lot more

Never claimed to. But the question I raise is why won't starline work on the same dies remington does. That is a good question, to me.

Been reloading for awhile, but have not advanced to annealing or bumping shoulder. Never needed to, for what I do.

But I am just simple handloader.

Most likely bumping the shoulder if you're full length sizing and die is set up properly.

My thoughts on the Starline brass are possibly too deep of a primer pocket. Pin just pushing the primer in once it hits it and not igniting it. Could be wrong there too.

Could be a die set up issue as well.

Nothing has been said about the split necks which were any issue in the OP.

Split necks, misfires and possibly hard chambering in the pump lead me to think of headspace issues or some other bolt to chamber issue.

Same die have loaded many rounds, many in this pump. 2 splits. I think the starline is different issue, but I don't know.

As some of said, is it anything to do with lube in the pump? I lubed the bolt, don't recall ever doing that before. brass would have been tumbled, Since then I have cleaned brass with alcohol or contact cleaner.


exact same primers, same primer, same die same bullet for starline.

I said I checked barrel being tight and met with opposistion.

I too have wondered primer pocket was deeper.

More to headspace than barrel tightness.

Yet I asked about that multiple times.

10gauge.
In the 760, the bolt rotates into abutments in a barrel extension, rather than into the receiver. As long as the bolt locks into the abutments properly; headspace must be as set at factory. UNLESS
The barrel extension has come unscrewed from the barrel. But then the barrel would be out of time.
Or the bolt lugs have been "set back" by firing excessive pressure loads.

Someone please correct me if I have this wrong.

I mentioned primer depth here and was told that was a dumb question. Keep trolling.

TheKid will be able to answer this pretty good.

Another question.

Even on a 700 your locking the bolt into the ass end of the barrel correct??

Another mention of depth yet I am an idiot.

And I am the one who needs to read a loading manual??

Another mention of primer depth.

And you say you have wondered about primer seating depth being the issue.

Get your lies straight dude.

Nah, couldn't be.

Or the recesses in the barrel extension have been hammered to fugg too.

I have wondered about primer depth. But as I said orginally the only difference is the brass. So if the depth is different it is because of the brass. so not exactly a breakthrough

You are a victim.

I just think you are an ____ who likes saying dumb stuff to muck things up. Not sure how I can make it clearer. Do you need a picture?

How many times have you said you are done? But I am guilty of that one too.

I am not here for answers anymore. I am just here to tell the tale.

Nah, you couldn't figure out how to post it.

Most here have given nothing but solid answers to you and all of them were met with resistance.

Keep digging.

10ga been trying to help you the whole time I did give up a long time ago if I was him but he's still trying and you're too ignorant to take the advice. I'll let you in the right direction also earlier back for a start and you're too damn dumb to take this. people like you are just [bleep] helpless I hope you blow yourself up become crippled and brain dead..

What does the brass look like on a piece of 1x fired factory loaded ammo?

Bright ring where brass meets case head?

Same ring or maybe brighter on a handload?

No.

👍🏻

No. Most typical bolt actions, the bolt lugs lock into a recess in the receiver. The barrel ends at the base of the chamber. On some, re:Rem 788, the bolt lugs are at the rear of the action.

The only thing determining headspace, or for that matter, containing the pressure of the cartridge is the barrel thread/action thread interface.

I have a couple Remington barrels in the safe if you would like to see pics of the chamber area.

It's all good.

Maybe a brain fart on my end. Have done a couple barrel swaps on Savages so I should remember what the interface looks like.

Nah, he is just pretending to be stupid for schitts and giggles. Classic troll. He has been floating around here for a long, long time.
now.
It is either our classic eternal troll, or a missing somebody doing a fantastic job of emulation. Who ever it is, he is running at least two old but newly reintroduced socks.

Anothergun??

Remingtons look exactly like a Savage. With the appropriate barrel you can even buy the threaded locking collar and set the Remington up as a switch barrel like a Savage. Called Remage. There are some minor variations among other brands like the extractor cut in the back of a Win 70 Classic or pre 64, etc.

I think it would be money safely bet.

I haven't posted since I joined, because the software was so awful, and lots of a holes. As I said when googling this I came across a thread on problems with 760, so I thought I would post. But as always, I am just repeating myself.

It baffles me why, I would be called a troll on this thread. I've come here with a problem. Refuse help? I am still not sure what help was given or refused.

The word troll is thrown around to much these days, by people when someone doesn't 100% agree, has their own opinion, or doesn't slob on their knob.

I have not taken any stance on what is going on with this rifle, if anything is.

Not sure why we are going on and on about the pics. As said I do not have a picture hosting account, and the software doesn't resize pics from my phone. As I have said over and over again. If I was going to call people a troll, i would call people here a troll for this.

I'll prime some starline, without sizing and see if primer goes off. That should tell if it is my die or not. I full length size new brass, because you get dented case from shipping.

I'll look at file sharing site. I can't really tell any differences in factory and handloads.

Despite accusations, I have never claimed to be an expert. I have loaded a bit. But never did anything other than set dies according to instructions.

I thought maybe the factory cases opened up more, but mic didn't really support this. But I was rushing, I got to go to work.

I can't tell difference. I'll look again after work. How big of ring?

There's a saying around the 'Fire: "When everyone you meet is an ass hole......maybe it ain't them."

Another saying, birds of feather flock together.

Could it be…?

..no, that’s not the answer.

Could it be…?

…no, that’s not the answer.

Could it be?

no, that’s not the answer.

Could it be…?

…no, that’s not the answer.

So, it you know that everyone else’s guess is wrong, you must know what the real answer is.

Well, what is it?

Primed virgin starline, no bullet, and it fired.

So I sized it, primed it, and it fired.
So I got one of the ones that didnt go off. Weighed same as other rounds.
So I put it in a savage, and it did not fire. That savage is on injured reserve, because it has had fail to fires.

So I go get a 700, and it doesn't fire.
So I pull the bullet and it has poweder.

I have never had a primer not go off.
So then I put one that has not been fired in another rifle, and it goes off.

Maybe hitting that primer lightly over and over again, killed it??

Another interesting thing on of the duds, the spitzer tip was mangled. I read on another forum about guy having issues with this. Suggestions were polymer tips or file feed ramps.

Maybe tomorrow I'll try a dud batch back in 760.

I forgot I had lymann rifle case headspace gauge and hornady comparator. Been pretty much on auto pilot, have not tried anything new in years. I typically hunt at archery distances.

Starline has been helpful too.

I put starline and loaded remington in lyman headspace gauge, I could tell with a magnifying glass.

So I fired the starline in a different bolt no problem.

One thing I thought about this, is the smaller base would have the round chambering deeper into battery. The issue is light hammer strikes, so I would think it would be worse if primer farther away.

I do remember one time, not slamming it home, when going to my stand in the morning trying to be quite. It didn't go off. But in that case, I remember the trigger didn't even fire. But that was over 20 years ago.

Hunting season now, will work on it later. I'll report if I find anything to help who ever may discover this on google in the years to come. If they make to page 12.

I did try measuring primer pockets, maybe .001 deeper, I was doing it quick, so not most accuarte, with end of calibers. Dial indicator in jig would be the way to go, same with he head space gauge.

Guys, this wanker was transparently a troll 11 pages back.

Because I want to fill in a future reader who may google this? That is how I ended up here, a discussion on 760 problems. Why don't you just stay out of the thread? Then I can't troll? Though they have read through the great squirel shooting posts.


So please don't post in this thread, so no one can troll.