The Shilen #2 contour is still a fairly heavy contour; especially in the midsection. I doubt there would be a huge difference in accuracy. If I was looking to build a lightish rifle, I would probably lighten the #2 a bit in the midsection. I like the Sako Hunter stock. The drop at the heel is decent and the comb is at a good height. I also like the grip angle and fullness. The swell helps to position your hand. All in all, the design manages to incorporate the beneficial features and doesn't look bad doing it. It deviates from the severe classic design popularized by American makers today but it is a good, functional design. The modern classic often has insufficient drop at the heel and while it is a decent prone stock, it is not great offhand.
98 actions are great. Perceived shortcoming are just that; perceived. Lock time is a little long? Who cares? I've never seen an animal duck after the trigger tripped. Recoil lug area is small? Maybe in a 458. The action is strong, safe, and stone reliable. The original two-stage trigger, properly tuned, is a trigger which pulls three pounds and cannot fail. It consists of five parts; including pins and springs.
I put one of Jim Wisner's Winchester-style safeties on one of mine because, at that time, it was the thing to do. My other Mausers have Beuhlers or trigger safeties, if the trigger was replaced with a Timney or Sako (another popular but unnecessary alteration IMO).
If one wants to save some weight on his Mauser build, there are aluminum bottom metal/magazine parts available and they work just fine.
As far as the choice between wood and glass, for a stock, is concerned; that is personal choice. In the mid-seventies, when Chet Brown and Lee Six were producing glass stocks, those of us who had gravitated toward these stocks for benchrest rifles, were somewhat willing to try them for hunting rifles as well and they worked great. They didn't look real great; mostly because the concept of finishing them well was kind of in it's infancy and a lot of us just sprayed them with the rattle can of choice. Today, finishes by good builders are durable and attractive, Sadly, I have never gotten much past the rattlecan approach!
Although the glass stocks provided real benefits (light weight, durability, weatherproof etc.) a lot of us still liked wood for the feel and for the opportunity to show off our ability to shape, fit, and finish a piece of wood. Many of todays stockmakers produce truly remarkable pieces. Others, like myself, make extremely functional handles; much like that found on a hammer or post hole digger.
Anyway, for the OP's 33/40, the Shilen #2 would be great (I would modify the contour slightly) and the MacMillan stock, in the Sako Hunter pattern, would make a nice handle. The NECG sights are nice but I have to ask, Why in the hell would one want to saddle the rifle with Talley One-Piece mounts, in combination with the sights? Do you plan to carry a Torx wrench with you, to remove the scope for quick use of those nice iron sights? Steel Weaver bases, in combination with any one of the quickly detachable rings which fit them. An alternative, if you prefer, would be Talleys QD rings and bases. The right answer is; anything but Talley one piece LW's.
I would stick with the original trigger (most would not) and a Beuhler-style safety. GD
