Lots of good view points. I'd still like to hear more ideas if anyone has them.
Here is another method that I picked up a while back on Accurate Reloading. It is a method used by Ray Atkison. I hope he does not mind me sharring it here. HAs anyone tried this method? Any comments pro or con?
[color:"blue"] . I bed the complete forend...I do remove a very small amount of wood (just a ribbon) from the juncture where the forend butts into the frame and around the round part in the rear of the forend center..I also remove the guts out of the frame in that area to keep the glass out of it and I glass that circular area of wood as well and later releave the top to the original shape, then file it flat to the original wood giveing me a ring of glass around the wood.
2.See above, but I will add that sometimes I use a very small drill on my drimel tool and make small indents in the wood in this area to get a better purchase....
when installed I then use a paper towell to wipe off the excess glass that squeezes out of the butt juncture....wax all the wood to start with is always good advise....
3.Screw Tension, when the glass is applied I put the forend on the gun and screw it to centerling of the barrel and stop at that point.
4.I use Johnsons Wax for a release agent, and about any good glass...I prefer Marine Tex from Brownells, but if you have not used a lot of glass compounds I would suggest that you use Brownells Gel, it is just easy to use and mix.
I also bed the butt stock with a ribbon of glass, applied all the way around with a match stick...this is an easy place to get into trouble with too much glass or not enough release agent...and at best it takes a good deal of tapping an easy jiggeling to pop it loose, same on a double gun, but it is well worth the trouble to keep that wood destroying oil out of the wood...
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