I run synthetic motor oil for cold starting because of the VI modifiers and the high film pressure. Buy the cheap walmart synthetic oil that has the right API grade and change out at 3K instead of the 6K my chevrolet manual says.
Run Fram higher grade oil filters because of the convenient sticky stuff on the end. Fram is tied in with Cummins so they know their filtration.
Don't believe the pictures of construction on filters pointing out plastic parts because they are percieved as poor quality. Its all about media performance and integrity.
Don't use K&N air filter - low restirction for "power", but poor filtration. Just because you see stickers on "race cars" doesn't mean they are "good". They just market to the sheeple and its stupid thinking you can clean a air filter and "save money" doing it. Use air filters the Ag & heavy construction people spec on their $100K+ machinery because they warrant their engines and need to hit perfrmance targets (think Mann, Donaldson, Cummins or quality suppliers)
Oil filters are trivial - its quality fuel and air filters really matter. Engine oil filters are pretty "loose" compared to hydraulic filters and keeping oil in the proper TBN range is more important.
I wasn't impressed with my Napa gold air filters I bought on "sale" during my last maintence interval. Some are better built than others and its their manufacturer variances.
I wasn't impressed with the WIX salesman and business model when he was in my office trying to get my filter designs. Seems like a will fitter and thats all. Baldwin doesn't impress me much, but they make a passable filter.
Yea... I'm opinionated, but I know a lot more about filtration than most people. The problem is consumers can't get the performance data to make good choices so you have to fall back to using API standards and buying product from reputable manufacturers.
