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Here is the test done way back when ULSD was introduced, and I use a combination of TCW-3 2 stroke oil, and Powerservice DK+CB with every tank. I'm sure a new test could be conducted to update the results to current, but so far I haven't seen anyone attempt it.

https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf


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In October I start filling my transfer tank with #1 and blend in a double shot of Stanadyne. That mixture gets blended into the remaining #2 that's in the various tractor fuel tanks.

By this time of year the #2 is long gone from the tanks and they're running on winter fuel.


Last few 100 gallon loads I've been adding Stanadyne every other fill up. Same for the pickups, add a jug at fill up.


I don't like dealing with fuel issues and see no reason to fiddle fuuck around and worry about things gelling up.

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Originally Posted by SamOlson
In October I start filling my transfer tank with #1 and blend in a double shot of Stanadyne. That mixture gets blended into the remaining #2 that's in the various tractor fuel tanks.

By this time of year the #2 is long gone from the tanks and they're running on winter fuel.


Last few 100 gallon loads I've been adding Stanadyne every other fill up. Same for the pickups, add a jug at fill up.


I don't like dealing with fuel issues and see no reason to fiddle fuuck around and worry about things gelling up.
Stanadyne is what we use year-round more so here for the extra lubrication in the newer fuels in older fuel pumps. maybe a different type under the same company that you all use up there where it's really freaking cold way too often. we have had zero fuel issues in years... use Howes if there's ever a sign of the algae in a fuel system somewhere..

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I've always have use Stanadyne Performance in my 2006 F250. Not had any problems.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
To some degree it depends on the purpose - antigelling, water dispersal, lubrication.

And also the type of engine. What works and is helpful in a non-DPF engine may not be appropriate for a DPF engine.


I use it year round mostly for lubrication on my older diesel engines. When I have engines that won't run at full throttle in the winter because of frozen fuel lines I use Power Service to open them up.



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I prefer Power Service to Howes, We try to stay away from Bio diesel as that usually causes more problems than its worth.


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I used Howe's in my skid steer with heating fuel. Smoother and quieter running.

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Cummins recommends Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost and Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost

https://www.cummins.com/news/releas...ds-power-service-diesel-kleen-cetane-and

I always use something... and buy 50 Cetane whenever possible (Southern States).

Stanadyne, F-BOMB, Hot Shot...


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Fuel filters last longer with a good fuel additive

Last edited by jwp475; 12/26/22.


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Originally Posted by jwp475
Fuel filters last longer with s good fuel additive

+1

Good fuel, good air and good oil... and most well built diesels will run damn near forever.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by ihookem
Originally Posted by JGRaider
I was in the wholesale fuel business for 27 years. I'm a big believer in diesel fuel additives, as today's ULS diesel fuels are worse than ever.

Would you recommend Mobil, or BP diesel ? If not, what would you recommend?

Most probably won't like to hear this but it's all the same, no difference. Whether it's a fuel terminal or refinery, once refined, diesel is stored in huge storage tanks. Whether we pulled diesel under suppliers like Shell, Pride, Flint Hills, Magellan, etc you will get a manifest showing exactly what you loaded, and regardless of the supplier the manifest shows the exact same specs. You can get data sheets for the batch of fuel in storage and its all the same. Minimum Cetane specs are State specific, and every batch of fuel sold after Oct 1 (around her anyway) is "winter spec" fuel.


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Stanadyne is great.


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it works great for freeing up rusty tools.


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FPPF Total Power for me. Buddy owns a busy independent diesel service/parts shop and that's what he tells me to use.

I'm pretty vigilant about fuel and filters as well. Fuel-filter swaps every 10K Mi. Once we're steadily below freezing, I'll add a glug or 2 of additive with each fill, Sort of depends on how much fuel I need. More often than not, I'm filling with 1/2 to not less than 1/3 tank when it's cold out. If temps are going to be single-digits or below zero, I run #1 with additive. Current '11 F250 6.7L w/215K Mi hasn't ever gelled/stalled and I bought it brand-new.

I gelled my '06 6.0L Ford PSD once in -20F ambient weather when I got caught w/straight untreated #2 during an unforecast cold-snap in early Dec. and decided I was going to do whatever I could to avoid that goat-rope in the future.


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