Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Competitive Shooting National Match legal AR

The mid-length upper (16" barrel, right?) is NOT legal for CMP NM competitions - it must be the 20" to be legal.
Also, the grip cannot be modified in any way - the one you've got is legal.

Thanks trigger. My current upper is just my toy for shooting on the range and home defense, etc. Eventually I'll be picking up a 20" Nm upper but the wait for them is quite a long time so I decided that for now I would blow my gun budget on instant gratification.

In the meantime, my next purchase will be a 2 stage trigger. The stock trigger SUCKS!

AlaskaFE
Ditto on the stock trigger...
I have the RR two stage in a couple of AR's. I bought it to install in my "Service Rifle Competition" gun, and it made me such a good shot I got one for my old Colt SP1 beater. The Colt had about a 4500 lb trigger pull (OK, so it was 7lbs or so), and the RR was a dream at 4.5 lbs compared to that!

I installed them myself. They were drop in parts so to speak, and if you've got the AR-15 manual for disassembly it's no sweat. I had forgotten how to do that part, but no problem with the instructions I had! I can't remember if the instructions came with the trigger, from the gun manual, the Army manual or the internet, but it wasn't really hard. IF you have any manual dexterity, give it a try. HINT: If you think you have to file anything, or get a bigger hammer, you should take everything to the local smitthy immediately!

I don't know if they're still out there, but I had an upper built by White Oak Armament to service rifle specs. It fits the requirement of service profile, no flash hider, 20 inch bbl with full heavy profile, weighs a ton. I should sell it, I've not been able to get time to compete and don't know when I will. Anyway, I would give WWA a thumbs up for service and quality if you start shopping for that match upper.

Best of luck.

Hey Alaska, Enjoy!!!

I, too, use the RRA 2-stage trigger in my AR. It's not nearly as good as a Geiselle, but costs almost 2/3 less. I'm knocking on Master scores with my RRA trigger.

Tuned up the RRAs are even better...

I went from a WOA NM upper to a CLE NM with a Krieger. Could just be the barrel, but I almost [bleep] my pants when I saw the difference. Not saying that CLE is better than WOA, but that when you spend more $$ to get a better barrel, you'll be amazed once you know what it can do.

I'm waiting right now to see what Santa brings. I doubt he'll have a RRA NM upper in his bag but heck, even if he only has some spare mags and a few reloading accessories I'll still be a happy camper. If I don't get the 2 stage trigger I'll be ordering it right away anyhow.

If you'd compare same barrels it would be same basically... How does I know... cause WOA uses CLE to do their Wilson tubes. But their Kriegers are done in house... well lets just say John has won a few national civilian titles with his guns and more than a few have been used by others to do similar feats.. one of his that I drove beat David Tubb.... says a bit.

Also not saying Frank and Theresa don't do a super job too.

Jeff

Both WOA is good stuff, I got a 204 Ruger upper, and had John make me a match upper for high power.

Both setups were awsome and shot very well

If you go either way WOA/WOP or CLE, definitely step up the barrel from the Wilson.

I"ve gone through a LOT of Wilson tubes for NTIT and practice guns. What they are.... cheap. THey are reasonable tubes but along the way the last fairly well, generally 4000 rounds or so which isn't bad for a cheaper buttoned tube, AND they are solid MOA tubes, truth be told I haven't had one that wasn't right at .75 moa and I"ve seen better...

I wouldn't use them if I was at the top of my game but for practice and short range tubes they are not bad and I've been snubbed by them a few times in matches cause the driver of the wilson just drove it better than I did mine....

Bottom line to that I thought when I started this game I could buy points too and you can to a certain extent, but was continually told until I was shooting a solid 90% plus that I should shoot cheap barrels and spend the extra money on practice ammo... WOW there was a gem of info in that statement....

Jeff, I like that rule; solid 90% then get a good barrel. When I look back in my scores in F-class, I found that I plateaued at around 87-88% and then I got a new barrel and climbed into the mid to high 90s at midrange. I broke into the 90% in LR and after switching over to the 308, I'm hoping to get to a consistent 95%+.

Definitely a very good guideline.

I'd say that might not be so solid for F class as you take human movement out of the picture sooner.. but I'd think by the time you hit 85% but 90% might be right due to target size discrepancy....

Here's a list of the things I did to mine back in the 1990's.

1. Krieger 1-7.75 twist barrel
2. Jewell trigger, although today I would get a Geisselle
3. Krieger/Millazzo float tube, although there are others today
4. Bykowski front and rear sights (http://www.hpirifles.com/) Don't know if he still makes them.
5. Weights inside the float tube and the buttstock to get weight up to about 12 lbs.
6. Biothane Sling from Turner Saddlery set up in Jim Owen's no-pulse method. (Takes 10 seconds to attach instead of 45 seconds.)

I would suggest floating the barrel first, then getting a new trigger. Your barrel may shoot already. I shot for a year before the factory Colt barrel became the limiting factor in my scores. You almost have to float the barrel because as soon as you put sling tension on, the barrel will move if not floated.

Have fun. Service rifle is fun. I have since built a full race match rifle, but haven't competed with it yet.

Fast Ed