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Any factory rifle should shoot to a 1 1/4" out of the box with off the shelf ammo.It should NOT require anything Premimum to do so.To me,that's the largest group allowable.Any rifle built in the last ten years can/should do this. Does this rifle have any history of accurcy? New/Used?
A 100 year old,well that a different story for later...


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Originally Posted by gorskij
So it looks like this? Its not freefloated, right, that might help if its NOT a skinny barrel, skinny barrels usually like some pressure, bedding is a waste of time, INMO.
[Linked Image]


A pressure point is a waste of time if the barrel is not completely cool after every shot.


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Originally Posted by whelenndealin
Here is the other target I shot. This was about a week before with the same Superformance ammo and this target had scope adjustments during the group.

[Linked Image]



I am not trying to be a smartass, but can you shoot 1/2"-3/4" groups with rifles you own now? That eliminates a big variable real quick. If you are accurate with another rifle, you could swap scopes and eliminate the optics. In my opinion, it is probably the factory ammo.

I had an early M7 7-08, walnut and blue with an 18.5" barrel and sights. It was a booger to get to shoot and I tried a variety of powder and bullets, the last series before selling it was Nosler BT's, 120's, then 140's and finally 150's that shot the best of everything I had tried. I thought I needed another 100fps so I sold it to buy a Win FWT 7-08, like a dummy.

I float and bed every rifle and normally before I even fire a shot downrange.

Last edited by RDW; 11/26/11.

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Originally Posted by RDW
Originally Posted by gorskij
So it looks like this? Its not freefloated, right, that might help if its NOT a skinny barrel, skinny barrels usually like some pressure, bedding is a waste of time, INMO.
[Linked Image]


A pressure point is a waste of time if the barrel is not completely cool after every shot.

The barrel on the model 7 doesnt look skinny to me, not like on the Mtn rifle anyways, therefor Id freefloat that sucker pronto. And he did mention he let the barrel cool 6-10mins between shots. Id also take the action out of the stock to see if there's anything that might be taking up space in there, twig, some sort of metal shaving, etc. etc.

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Quote
I got 2 groups like that at 300yds with my new 308SPSS, that was using lapua brass & 178HPBTs, Win brass never shot groups like that, barrel never got past being warm. Only thing I can figure out is the Lapua braas is allowing higher pressure since it holds less powder.


Did you carry the same charge weight from WW to Lapua brass?

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Originally Posted by whelenndealin
Here is the other target I shot. This was about a week before with the same Superformance ammo and this target had scope adjustments during the group.

[Linked Image]


If these two 3 shot groups are totally separate, the left group is actually pretty good, the group on the upper right maybe just needs to be snugged into your shoulder a bit more, I get terrible horizontal stringing if I get lazy and dont snug the butt into my shoulder with my 708.

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Originally Posted by mathman
Quote
I got 2 groups like that at 300yds with my new 308SPSS, that was using lapua brass & 178HPBTs, Win brass never shot groups like that, barrel never got past being warm. Only thing I can figure out is the Lapua braas is allowing higher pressure since it holds less powder.


Did you carry the same charge weight from WW to Lapua brass?

Indeed I did, 47.5grs 2000MR, now I have the lapua loads seated out further to give it more space in the case. so I loaded 3 different loads at 2.905", 2.925" & 2.945" oal. The 178HPBT is kissing the lands at 2.960". Also loaded some Lapua cases with 43grs RE15 seated at 2.9"oal.

Last edited by gorskij; 11/26/11.
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I haven't used 2000MR, so no comment there. But in general, Lapua 308 brass wants a bit less powder than WW. They're close to opposite ends of the brass spectrum, the WW weighing close to 155 grains and the Lapua around 173.

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Originally Posted by mathman
I haven't used 2000MR, so no comment there. But in general, Lapua 308 brass wants a bit less powder than WW. They're close to opposite ends of the brass spectrum, the WW weighing close to 155 grains and the Lapua around 173.

Im hoping that seating the bullet out farther will help, but contemplating lowering the powder charge, which Ive done already and didnt get really good groups.

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Gorskij
Your discussion of seating the bullet further out does not pertain to this thread! Talking 2.9" only serves to pizz off model 7 owner. It's kinda like telling a tikka 223 shooter to seat his bullets to the lands. pffft.

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Like most everyone else is saying.. float it .. bed it. Or you are getting some heating issues and some crazy harmonics. The cheapest is give it 5 mins between shots.. change ammo.. or try one of those Sims vibraton dampners (rubber donut) that slides over your barrel.

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Just found a target I shot earlier this year. The date says March. This is with Winchester 140 grain powerpoints. Was gonna get some of these on Friday, but they were $39.99! Ballistic Silvertips were $44.99 and the only other thing they had were 120 grain Fusions. This load shot pretty good from 100 yards, but I did have one flyer.

[Linked Image]


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For the last time, buy some Fusions!


Originally Posted by captain seafire
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Originally Posted by Rancho_Loco
For the last time, buy some Fusions!


Ha, ok I mine as well give them a try, should I get the 120's or 140's?

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Originally Posted by whelenndealin
Originally Posted by Rancho_Loco
For the last time, buy some Fusions!


Ha, ok I mine as well give them a try, should I get the 120's or 140's?


From the looks of that target your rifle likes 140 grain bullets. MidwayUSA has 140 grain Fusion in stock for $27.99.

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It doesn't look like there is anything wrong with the rifle or the shooter, just the ammunition. I would still bed the action and float the barrel.


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Originally Posted by whelenndealin
Originally Posted by Rancho_Loco
For the last time, buy some Fusions!


Ha, ok I mine as well give them a try, should I get the 120's or 140's?


Try both or you will never know which shoot better in your rifle..


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What I did with my 20" SS/syn 7-08 was to first put it in a laminated stock I got from a CF member. The syn stock is just too weak especially in the forend, and in my experience the thin 7 bbl does not do well with a free float all the way.
I bedded just the lug with Devcon, floated the barrel, and bedded about a 3/4" strip about 2" in from the tip of the forend just to stabilize the barrel without upward pressure...and then just slightly snugged the action screws while curing. When done, I torqued the front 30 and the tang 25 (in-lbs). The result was sub MOA groups with 120BT's, 120TTSX's, and 139Horn with Fed210/H414.

So, what I did was very little and got, what I think, very good results. I also adjusted the trigger to 3 lbs. The Rem brass was just annealed and the necks turned to .013" just to true them up. With a stable stock, a tablespoon of Devcon, and some attention to detail, I turned my so so rifle into a real shooter for a hunting class rifle.

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Originally Posted by Beargrease
Originally Posted by whelenndealin
Originally Posted by Rancho_Loco
For the last time, buy some Fusions!


Ha, ok I mine as well give them a try, should I get the 120's or 140's?


From the looks of that target your rifle likes 140 grain bullets. MidwayUSA has 140 grain Fusion in stock for $27.99.

Piss on the Fusions, send me your brass and Ill load you up some 139 Hornadys, $10/box, plus whatever shipping comes to, Im serious.

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Originally Posted by Thumper358
What I did with my 20" SS/syn 7-08 was to first put it in a laminated stock I got from a CF member. The syn stock is just too weak especially in the forend, and in my experience the thin 7 bbl does not do well with a free float all the way.
I bedded just the lug with Devcon, floated the barrel, and bedded about a 3/4" strip about 2" in from the tip of the forend just to stabilize the barrel without upward pressure...and then just slightly snugged the action screws while curing. When done, I torqued the front 30 and the tang 25 (in-lbs). The result was sub MOA groups with 120BT's, 120TTSX's, and 139Horn with Fed210/H414.

So, what I did was very little and got, what I think, very good results. I also adjusted the trigger to 3 lbs. The Rem brass was just annealed and the necks turned to .013" just to true them up. With a stable stock, a tablespoon of Devcon, and some attention to detail, I turned my so so rifle into a real shooter for a hunting class rifle.

Check this out, the first Model 7 I loaded for was a bone stock Stainless/Synth, all I did was loaded 40.5grs Varget, 9 1/2 primers, Rem brass and the rifle shot a .505" group at 100yds. The stocks on those rifles are very strong, dont kid yourself.

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