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Kroil for me.

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WipeOut is what I use.


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Montana Xtream, I use it outside the smell isn't that big of a deal since it works. In revolvers I mostly shoot cast bullets and hoppes works fine and I might dabb a little behind the boss lady's ear.

Last edited by SEdge; 07/02/12.

Originally Posted By: P_Weed

I never met a gun I didn't like.

SEdge,

I have an AMT Hardballer I can fix you up with.
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MD,

I have taken to use MPro-7, have you given this a try.

I believe it works the best of all the ones I have tried.

Thanks for your input


T


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I don't remember if I have or not, but there's a big box of cleaning supplies out in my shop that various manufacturers have sent for testing. I'll check and see if there's any out there. If not I'll give it a try.


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Mule Deer, your comments about fire lapping and Dyna Bore coat are very interesting. Is this something you do as a two-step process, fire-lapping followed by Dyna Bore?

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Sometimes I just do the fire-lapping, but often also DBC, especially on varmint rifles that get shot a lot.


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Robertc.

I have experience with one badly pitted barrel using Dyna Bore Coat. This rifle is a 1941 Sav-99 with a very worn throat and pits large and small the entire length of the slow-twist barrel.

I learned early on that it didn't shoot very well with a clean barrel, and velocities were somewhat low.

It shot considerably better after at least a dozen rounds were put through it to build up a layer of powder fouling, and velocities increased by 50 to 100 fps over the first several shots.

I was actually pleased that a barrel as pitted as this one shot as well as it did, just under 2" groups with shorter bullets. Certainly well enough for deer hunting at reasonable ranges. But then it would soon also start building a lot of copper fouling, as noted with a bore-scope, and I felt compelled to do a major cleaning.

Since doing the Dyna Bore Coat treatment the copper fouling has been greatly reduced and accuracy improved. I haven't used any copper solvent in this barrel since I treated it over two years ago. I pretty much leave the barrel alone, to maintain the base level of powder fouling it does best with. About every fifty rounds I make one pass with a dry Bore-Snake. That doesn't seem to hurt anything and the barrel is back to normal with just one or two fouling shots.

I just reviewed this rifle's 100 yard groups with its best load since the DBC treatment. This is the 87 gr Speer Hot-Cor SP, with the Hornady Manual max load of 34.8 gr of H-4895 at 3000 to 3050 fps in a Sav-99 with a 24" barrel, the same length and twist as mine.

Since the treatment, 4 and 5-shot groups average 1 1/4" within a range of 3/4" to 1 3/4".

Before the treatment, and the suspension of frequent cleaning, groups ran from 1 1/4" to 2 1/4". (Most other short bullets shoot into this range, now, except the 75 gr V-Max, which does as well as the 87 gr Speer).

In this slow-twist barrel, any bullets longer than this 87 gr Speer make groups of 3 to 5". That includes the 80 and 85 gr Barnes bullets, due to length.

I have used two orders of DBC to treat eight rifles (four each time). There was enough magic solution to do more barrels, but within a few weeks/months(?) the solution got unusably thick or hardened. Getting four barrels super clean, with the help of a bore-scope, in preparation for the treatment is a lot of work. It put me out of the mood for a while, and by then the remaining solution was unusable.

I tried Dyna Bore Coat based on JB's recommendation here on the forum and in an article in GUNS magazine, I believe. I have been very pleased with it and plan to use more of it in the future.

I believe it is just as useful in a pitted barrel as in a good one. Maybe even more so. As this opinion is based on just one barrel, I would like to hear others experience. Good luck.



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nifty-two-fifty,

Very interesting post!

A question: How did you store the DBC between using it?


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I just resealed the bottle and put it back on the shelf in my shop. The temp in the shop is always between 60 and 80 degrees, year round.


Nifty-250

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Several years ago, back when it was Ultra Bore Coat and hadn't become Dyna yet, the guy who introduced me to it suggested keeping it in the refrigerator after the bottle had been opened. I always have ever since, and never had a bottle go bad on me that I can recall.


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Thanks. I'll try that next time.


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Originally Posted by nifty-two-fifty
I just resealed the bottle and put it back on the shelf in my shop. The temp in the shop is always between 60 and 80 degrees, year round.

I had the same issue with the early poly bottle. Since the change to metal containers the issue no longer exists. Bear


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^ Yup.

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My own modified version of Ed's Red is what I use, consisting of John Deere Low-viscosity Hy-Gard ATF, MEK, kerosene, mineral spirits, toluene or xylene, some Lube Control LC-20, and about 1.5-2 ounces of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer per quart (for added lubricity and to use up my existing stock of it). It works for me.


If a label lacks a skull and crossed bones, the product cannot be very effective.
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How does that compare to Dyna Bore Coat--or is it a bore cleaner?


“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.”
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It's just a bore/cylinder/et cetera cleaner.

One possible drawback is the vapor, it can put you on a flight if inhaled excessively. Not advisable to use around polymer stuff due to the methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) in it.

But it does seem to work well for me, and it is quite inexpensive.


If a label lacks a skull and crossed bones, the product cannot be very effective.
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Is there some advantage to these home brewed concoction's besides saving a couple of bucks ?

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Versus manufactured cleaners, I doubt it. But I enjoy mixing my own, it tends to satisfy the boy chemist in me smile


If a label lacks a skull and crossed bones, the product cannot be very effective.
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Makes sense to me.

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