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Joined: Oct 2010
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Have it recrowned.

I had a problem rifle that I just couldn't get any consistency out of, tried everything. When I got to look at the bore with a bore scope I knew what the problem was. Firelapped the barrel and now it is a consistent 0.6" 3-shot with factory ammo.

Firelapping doesn't fix everything, but it will fix a rough bore.

Aaron

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by aheider
I am a model 70 guy and usually have really good luck. I am apt to rebarrel and march on before I sell.


Good man, that's what I like to hear. Do you have any pics of your bedding and is it bedded tight? How much compound is under the chamber area?


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

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[Linked Image]

The bedding is tight. The crown looks good. I can't see any imperfections although I am looking at it with my naked eye. In the photo the light spots are just that, reflection from the overhead can lights.

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Bedding looks good but I'd remove the compound under the chamber. Leave about 1/4" or so under so it looks like this:
[Linked Image] (sorry it's a synthetic stock so the representation isn't as good as what it would be for a wood stocked rifle but you get the point)

....... and re free-float it just for chits and giggles. Also make sure you have clearance around the action screws (open up the holes after bedding).....Make sure the action isn't stressed when you tighten up the action screws too. My New Haven 30-06 classic sporter didn't like that much bedding material under the chamber so I did the above and also did the same with my 7mm rem mag (pictured) and they both shoot lights out...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Bedding looks good but I'd remove the compound under the chamber. Leave about 1/4" or so under so it looks like this:
[Linked Image] (sorry it's a synthetic stock so the representation isn't as good as what it would be for a wood stocked rifle but you get the point)

....... and re free-float it just for chits and giggles....Make sure the action isn't stressed when you tighten up the action screws too. My New Haven 30-06 classic sporter didn't like that much bedding material under the chamber so I did the above and also did the same with my 7mm rem mag (pictured) and they both shoot lights out...


I will give it a try. Thanks.

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This is purely anecdotal, but I've had a couple of Featherweights that just would not shoot. They were free-floated, bedded, etc, and like you I tried all of the standard accurizing measures.

Both of these rifles ultimately did start shooting well, however, after I shot the heck out of them and let their barrels get good and HOT, followed by a thorough bore cleaning. I call it a "redneck barrel break-in". If you're going to sell or rebarrel anyway, it might be worth a try.




Originally Posted by RED53
Some shooting knowledge: Don't stand in front of the muzzle. Some hunting knowledge: Too much noise ruins the hunt.
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One suggestion I can pass on when the 'fire was trying to help me diagnose flyers with my re-barreled 70; make sure you have the correct length front scope base screws. If they bottom out on the barrel threads, the front base may be loose.

The other suggestion was to make sure the action screws were not touching the stock.


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Originally Posted by taylorce1
First id run a bore scope down it. If the bore checks out I'd touch up the crown and see what happens. I would want a sub MOA rifle as well since it is doubtful your daughter will be able to shoot it as well as you can. Give her every advantage possible to make sure her hunt is a success. I sure wouldn't hesitate to rebarrel either.


I, too would get it crowned and float the barrel.

You May well know this but with M70's the stock screws should be ightened roughly as follows;
1. tighten front action screw very tight. Tighten the middle screw until the head just touches and tighen the back screw tight. Makes a big difference in accuracy with mine.

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