Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters which oil for bore protection

Well, maybe not.

I have found the link to the original test:

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/141077-Results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation

Thanks for posting the link, that was very informative.

I have had a change of heart as far as using the Dyna Bore Coat.
I dont want to take a chance of putting JB Bore paste in the bore .
From what I can tell it is about a 1200 grit abrasive and can harm a barrel .
Best I can tell If JB bore paste is not used then the Dyna bore coat wont work,so its back to looking for a good oil for inside the barrel to keep the corrosion out.

I Hope Remington takes care of the bore as I sent it back to them to look at and repair as only one lug was making contact on a brand new rifle and I did not want to lap the lugs and increase the headspace.We will see what they do .
Probably be a couple of months(hope sooner)before I get the rifle back.

Thanks for the info so far guys.

Well, you're wrong about JB harming a bore, and also having to to use it to install DBC. But it's your barrel.

FWIW, take the post with a big grain of salt. It was posted on the 'Fire as well.

Rancid 'was' on here as "DIYguy" before Rick did something to keep him away. You can find his list of crap and make your own decision.

He started out with some interesting posts, but turned in an uber ass hole.

I find I can't trust anything he says.

I dont know as I have never used the stuff . I was just repeating what several barrel manufactures have said.
To the effect that a patch around a brush wit JB can act as a lap and change barrel dimensions.

About the install of DBC I asked you and you never responded but I found several old threads and your instructions on the website. Dyna-Tek
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Home > Firearm Products > Firearm Application Instructions > Cleaning a Barrel to Bare Steel

Cleaning a Barrel to Bare Steel



NEEDED SUPPLIES:

1. Cleaning Solvent

2. Properly sized cleaning patches

3. Brass Bore Brush

4. JB Bore Cleaner

5. Chemical copper solvent

6. DYNA-TEK Alcohol Cleaner, Denatured Alcohol, or Acetone

7. Cleaning Rod

8. Disposable, absorbent towels

9. Safety glasses and disposable gloves recommended



The proper installation of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat involves first cleaning the bore down to bare, dry steel. Otherwise the coating won�t be sticking to the steel, but to the powder, lead or copper fouling.



1. Ensure firearm is unloaded and free of any ammunition

2. Clean out all loose powder fouling using a cleaning solvent and clean patch. Soak patch with solvent and push through bore and pull back 6 to 8 times. Change patch and repeat this 6 to 8 times or until patch comes out clear of any powder fouling.

3. Using a clean or new (this is critical) correctly sized brass bore brush, wrap it with a clean, thick cotton patch and liberally soak with JB Bore Cleaner. This has a fine abrasive that will remove fouling but not affect the base metal.

4. Run this brush/patch combination back and forth inside the barrel 30 times reapplying fresh JB to the patch every 10 strokes. The brush/patch must fit the barrel tight and should take considerable force to move it and to insure the cleaning compound is working. If it is at all loose, wrap another patch around the brush and reload it with fresh JB and continue.

5. Clean the bore again with a cleaning solvent and several patches to remove the abrasive bore cleaner.

6. Use a chemical copper solvent to remove any remaining trace amounts of copper fouling, following the manufacturer�s instructions. Normally this requires 3 cycles to complete.

7. Degrease the bore with 3-6 patches and either DYNA-TEK Alcohol Cleaner, denatured alcohol or acetone and allow to dry.

8. The bore is now completely clean to bare metal and ready for the application of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat.
We would like to thank John Barsness for the excellent bore cleaning instructions detailed above.


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My understanding from reading these articles and threads is that the coating wont stick unless the bore is super clean and that JB bore paste is required,anywhere from 30 to 100 or more strokes through the bore

The only place I found that JB was not required is on youtube where a guy was talking about just using alcohol to clean the bore.
Whats the real skinny on this stuff?
Does it require using JB paste or not ?

I think you would have to lap like a banshee for no telling how long to change the diameter of a barrel. Properly used JB is a non-issue.

You'd have to use JB a LOT to result in any dimensional differences. The 30 back-and-forth strokes recommended in the DBC directions are not a lot, and in fact only 20 strokes will normally do the job. I suggested 30 to make sure, especially for people who don't have access to a bore-scope--and most don't.

Dan Lilja is one barrel-maker I've discussed JB with. He recommends against using it FREQUENTLY, because then it can make them a little too smooth, increasing contact with the bullet and causing the barrel to foul quicker. (I've seen this myself in one bore, and DBC cured the fouling.) This is why most barrelmakers who lap bores only use a grit of around 500 for the final finish, since it allows the bullet to essentially ride on top of the tiny striations.

Using JB for 30 strokes will not do the slightest harm to the larger-grit lapping. Instead it will just take the softer stuff off the top of the steel, whether copper or powder fouling.

You can also get a bore clean enough for DBC by reapplying carbon and copper solvents, alternating each for a day or more. JB just accelerates the process, and believe me you'll never have to use it again after DBC is installed.

Thanks for the warning. Must be a strange fellow to go through all that pain just to come with some crappola.

Narcisism.

Thank you John for taking the time to explain this in further detail.I appreciate it.
Thank everyone else for your input as well.

JB-

I don't know if it was addressed in this thread or perhaps elsewhere, Have you used DBC in pistols and/or revolvers?

Yeah, a little bit, and it not only works in revolver barrels but cylinders. Have also used it in shotguns and black powder rifles, whether cartridge or muzzleloader. It makes clean-up a lot easier in any of them, partly because it reduces build-up of fouling, whether copper, lead, powder or plastic from shot-cups, and partly because the fouling that does occur comes out far easier.

Thanks!

Recently a post on the Fire showed the results of an in depth study comparing different products as to best in the parameters of rust preventive and lubrication. Alas, my old favorite Corrosion X is great at stopping rust but leaves a lot to be desired as far as a lubricant.

Has anyone tried Frog Lube?

Eezox has worked for me in wet places like Wisconsin and South Texas. Some published comparison test with other products back up my experience.

This was a great source of info.. I was just going to ask the same q. about oils.. Sounds like DB. is the way to go.. A couple questions, that I don't think were discussed.. If a guy were going to do say 20 rifles, how much of this should I order??


Mule Deer, I have several varmint rifles and a couple of my favorite big game rifles that have well over 1000 rounds thru them.. The varminters well over 2000.. Will the DBC still work with a barrel that has been used this much.. The varminters are .22-250's and the big game a couple of .300's and 7mm Mag.s.