For what it's worth:
Look, I was a PC newbie and found Yondering's thread over a year ago. I was just about ready to buy a whole lot of equipment in order to spray PC. This shake and bake method seemed easy, and I gave it a try. In fact, you can see where I asked some questions early on.
I don't know what is the "best" method. I'm not even sure there is a "best" method for putting paint on bullets. All I know is Yondering was nice enough to document his method. It worked for him. It sure worked for me, and having his thread here saved me a whole lot of trouble. I've now casted and coated a couple thousand rounds using Shake and Bake. I've also turned two friends onto it, after giving them a demonstration over the winter.
The good thing about Yondering's Shake and Bake method is it produces excellent, repeatable results without anything more than an empty plastic tub with a cover. As it is, it is a fantastic simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem. I've shown it to a PHD in Chemistry who's adopted it for his 458 SOCOM project. He's fairly convinced the reason the green paint works over the others is due to some relationship between the titanium in the paint and the lead in the bullet. He's currently trying to analyze it to better understand what Yondering has stumbled into. Who knows? Maybe he'll be able to come up with a more generalized understanding of why the green paint works where other's don't. We'll see.
Until it this chemistry wonk gets back with the answers, I'm perfectly happy to cast green bullets.
BTW: Until I turned him onto Yondering's thread, he'd been using Harbor Freight powder and having a really bad time of it. There's now three of us using Shake and Bake and loving it.
