Originally Posted by S99VG
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Good point, re: California-driven solvents. I don't know the answer. Like I said, I don't thin finishes except to thin spar varnish with naptha for top coating. The jugs of mineral spirits, acetone, and denatured alcohol I keep around are mainly employed as de-greasers and for mopping up epoxy squeeze out on glue joints and to de-oil oily woods such as teak and rosewood before gluing them.


Hey guys, I happen to be a "California-driven solvent" so be nice. Just kidding. The tung oil I'm using, the tung oil on which I based this thread, is identified on the label as "100% Natural Unprocessed Tung Oil." At least that'show the guys at Wood River bottled it the fine fellows at Wood Craft sold it to me. So I m assuming that I've been using the pure stuff with absolutely no added crap (geez, I wish our gas was that way). After going through the exercise of this thread I've become convinced that solvents are not necessary and that its just as well to use the pure stuff as, how they say, "straight with no chaser." And that includes both tung and, as Gary wisened me up to, refined linseed oil bought from an art supply shop and not BLO from a big box DIY center.


Sadly by some standards, but really no big deal at all... there is absolutely NO guarantee there is ANY tung oil in 100% tung oil bottles. It is no different from linseed oil in any significant respect and is legally bottled as "100% tung oil" if it is an oil that acts just like tung oil. Not long ago the label had to say "tung oil FINISH" in order to be marked as pure tung oil, but that appears to have been dropped fairly recently.

I would sure love to know how they managed to make the oil without processing it


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.