They all do their thing IF you don't idle them a bunch, AND you get them up to full operating temp on virtually every start-up. Short-trip/stop-and-go is problematic for all of them. I'd not have a diesel from anyone unless I had a 20-30Min highway speed w/cruise set commute every day, or had a trailer hooked up daily with a 15-20Min highway speed commute.
@ 0F ambient, my '11 6.7L Ford takes 20-25min of 70+mph highway driving to come up to full temp in the engine and transmission. I do almost 0 "around town" driving with mine, but, when I have in the cold weather, I could drive around town stop and go, 45MPH and less for 90min and not get the engine up to full temp, which also means I'm not going to get a re-gen in the DPF even if it needs one. A plugged DPF due to long run times @ low engine temps means that the "plugging" continues forward from the DPF, next probably plugging the EGR or the SCR injector, or both.
Full-temp operation with full-length DPF regen cycles and using fresh-fuel from a trusted source will mostly keep you trouble free. Oct-Apr I use FPPF Total Power additive at every fill-up. May-Sept I rarely run any additive.
I have ~185K on my F250. Ford replaced my EGR valve under warrantee between 95 and 100K Mi when the CEL came on. I had to replaced the DEF tank heater in Oct of '20. The 1st in line water separator/fuel filter sits below the frame rail and I've replaced that housing 3X and the water in fuel sensor 2x more when they've been damaged off-road.
I'm not advocating for or against any of the big-3, merely trying to give a picture of what's allowed me to run a diesel pickup with all the modern emissions features mostly trouble-free.
In today's "diesel pickup world" my absolute #1 concern would be buying from the dealer with the most competent diesel service/repair staff. If you're not going to use the dealer, then find out what the repair shop you're going to use is good at and stays current on.
