Originally Posted by iskra
I think in Supergrades, the best buys are ones you can live with that aren't collectible. As noted above such as non-original recoil pads, actually common on rifles typically fifty-eighty years old! Determine whether pad, if any, is yet supple and Just watch for any significant undesired alteration of length of pull! The other thing is of course prewar's with scope holes since they weren't D&T from the factory. The caution is that such rifles prior to about 47 or so not "factory tapped" is that often the whole spacing is weird. May work or not! The 3-=-6 chambering is most common and thus typically least valuable simply based on availability. I believe it was about '48 as the intermediate "Tilden Safety" was factory. No big deal for most folks. On the prewar, the so-called "flag safety" weren't "scope compatible".
As noted, the Monte Carlo stock arrived in early fifties and if you want such Supergrade, just be aware that the Stock receiver tang had gone from so-called "cloverleaf" to late model in latter forties. Not interchangeable! A matter of recent note, large caveat re any rifle with receiver sights. Typically stock inletted and unless your plan to keep such, an ugly large scar the residual receiver area wood!

For your purposes, any residual items which may have resulted in stock alterations need to be accounted. Those SG rifles were pricey for a reason. One that 'damaged goods' may be worse than an unadorned specimen.
The more good photos you can get in reference to any purchase possibilities of rifles not subject to hands-on inspection, the better!

There are yet a host of 'other modification possibilities' but such are the most common fatal flaws to a collector or points of negotiation to such as handsome rifle buyers.
Good luck & best!
John

The problem with supergrades is they are always going to be expensive. When at the gunshops, they hold them in high regard, even if they don't know what they have. They could have a lot of work done to them, but the shop owners think because its a supergrade, it's got to be worth 3 times as much as a standard grade. Even one that has been faked. A lot of shop owners don't know what they have. Generally one of the reasons buying a supergrade can be a real challenge. It's best to have it in hand and be sure you know what you are looking at. Even if you have to consult a book or professional. Check everything and be sure it is exactly what it's supposed to be. I had an opportunity to buy a real nice 220 swift supergrade a few/5 years ago. It belonged to the original owner and he told me the barrel had been changed out by Winchester, it had also been glass bedded. The rifle was beautiful, but obviously well worn. He said he would take $1,000.00 for it, but I wasn't sure if I wanted one in 220 Swift. Now I'm kicking myself in the azz because even though it was re-barreled, it would have been worth the money. One thing I always think about when it comes to the supergrade model is something my smith told me a few times. He always warned me, that "supergrades are easy to fake". He said, if he could do it, "anybody can". Just something to think about.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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