I have a 1:8 Krieger in 223AI @ 26" Rem Varmint contour that's been the most finicky aftermarket bbl I've had. In FF'd Lapua brass using 75gn A-Max it didn't like H335 or R-15 powder. Tried H380 and it's very accurate.
I don't have enough examples of any bbls factory or aftermarket to start drawing hard and fast conclusions on any of them. Couple from Brux, a Rock Creek button/production bbl, and several from Lilja. Lately I've ordered Lilja because they have so many factory duplicate contours available without any drama. Everything except the Krieger previously mentioned has shot well with pretty much anything I've tried whether it's been FF loads or "experimenting". Typically I have an idea of the projectile I want to use, just need to find preferred powder in the correct burn rate.
I've got a 700 SPS Tact. 308 factory bbl that looks like rumble-strips on the side of the highway but it shoots 155gn Scenars very well, it's an easy rifle to hand to anyone and expect them to shoot it well.
1st step on either a new rifle, new bedding/stock, or new scope mounts is to check bbl/channel clearance or mating depending on your bedding method. Make sure you're action-screw holes in the stock are clear so you're mating the lug/stock properly and not "headspacing" the whole works on the action screws and some hardened goo not meant to be there. Those are quick and easy, this next one gets skipped FAR to often. Remove every scope & stock mounting screw. Polish/lightly grind the bottom of every screw shiny. Pull out the sharpie, run every screw in, then back out and look for anywhere sharpie has been removed thus denoting contact where it ought not be. Depending on what you're working with, screws of improper length can contact the bbl tenon, bolt lugs, or the bottom of the action itself, feigning "tight" when what you've actually got is an inadvertent tuning fork from which no good will come.
Last edited by horse1; 04/01/23.
