Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters DYNA-TEK Bore Coat instructions revised

Nope, it's not a problem at all. I typically do nothing to clean up any DBC that gets in my chambers, and it always comes out with the first few rounds fired, as white residue on the brass that easily wipes off.

Doesn't need to seal, it just needs to prevent the majority from entering the chamber. A little bit in there won't hurt at all. I've done it many times and never an issue.

DBC in the chamber won't "cure" hard, like it does in the bore due to the powder heat and pressure of the passing bullet. If it bothers somebody, a shotgun bore brush of the appropriate diameter will easily remove it.

You put it in from the barrel side and run it down - I did it to my Lyman GPR and WOW !

What i did was to make sure it was "wet" with a damp mop, and worked it back and forth from the chamber on up, then I did it again but to make sure it was damp I poured a bit more down the bore onto the mop when it was at the bottom of the barrel, then I worked it up the bore again.

With my GPR I used to get a hard 3rd shot seated without swabbing, #4 was just plain dangerous.

Now that pattern occurs at the 8th shot - in fact if I leave the cap on after firing and seat the ball too fast sometimes it will move the bullet up the bore from the air pressure. Pretty wild.

I just cleaned all my shotgun barrels so I can coat them as well - some of the duck hunters found out that you get better patterns when the wads aren't getting yanked by fouling. If it's anything like my experience with my GPR ... I'm all over it.

Spot

Never thought of shotguns. Makes sense.

DF

DBC really helps screw-in chokes, especially tighter chokes.

Oh thanks - now I have to coat all my chokes too... not sure why I didn't already to it.

Hadn't thought of that, either.

Thank, JB.

DF

tag.

tag

Is there any reason not to coat a new barrel? I'm waiting on a new Tikka 6.5 Creedmore.... Does the factory test fire each new rifle?

No reason not to coat a new barrel, though you'll still need to thoroughly clean it to bare steel. It's usually much easier when they're new and only have a couple of proof shots fired through them.

Thanks.... I have mostly been using foaming bore cleaners the past several years. I'm thinking a more aggressive copper solvent might be called for to be sure I get to bare steel.... Suggestions?

Great! Tagged

Depends on how bad it is. It can take a LOT of work to get a heavily fouled barrel clean down to the steel. And, a borescope really helps.

With a heavily fouled barrel, I'd do a series of soaks with Wipe Out or Patch Out, may even need the Accelerator, but IIRC, they don't recommend over night with that one. JB Paste may be needed. Lots of work, but it's gotta be really clean, not just no blue patches.

After treatment and a few shoot and clean cycles, cleaning seems to get easier.

As far as new barrels are concerned, mine all get it, even top end premium tubes.

Can't hurt, can only help. I have premium barrels that after extended range time, clean perfectly with a patch or two of Patch Out. And that's borescope clean with no fouling in sight. They won't all do that. Others may take a bit more effort, but are much easier to clean post treatment than before.

DF

Thanks again, the DYNA-TEK kit got here today..... When the Tikka 6.5 Creedmore gets here I'll clean it and coat it first thing....

Dropped by Amazon, Brownells, and Midway, I had to buy it direct.
I just ordered 3 more ounces of Bore Coat... cost me ~$100 shipped

https://shop.dyna-tek.com/shop/

I build a number of rifles every year.
This year they will copy Jordan Smith in using both Moly and Bore Coat.

This year I know I am building an M70 7mmSTW and a Defiance Hunter 7mmSTW.

But there may also be a 30-30, 30/40, and a 257 Roberts.... gotta see how many tags I draw.

I would follow proper break in, then clean to to bare metal and coat

MD's write up in the latest Rifle magazine is a very worthwhile read. Buy the magazine just for that article.

Tag