Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Having trouble to shoot a nice group

Try a different scope and if I can see good,those are windage adjustable rear bases. I would change out the mount too.Check to see if it is floated,or if the inletting is pressing hard against the barrel anywhere. Check the action screw torque.

Do you rest it w sling stud in the front bag or put bag behind the stud every shot?

You said first 2 with the 180s were touching and the 3rd about an inch away?? Nothing wrong with that at all.

Before starting to change things -
Open the floorplate and check the center screw, it is just in front of the trigger guard - it should not be more than finger tight, if it is chances are it is binding the action. Having the center screw too tight is common and can cause the issue you are having.


Other issues I can see from the picture include -
The sling (if you are trying to shoot groups with it on the rifle) remove it.
Remove the front and rear sling swivel studs so there is no chance that they are hitting the bags during recoil.
Be sure to have the rear bag far enough away from the pistol grip that it cannot hit the bag during recoil.
Replace that rear bag with something better, shooting off of those is like trying to shoot using a baseball as a rest.

If you have a friend who is a good shot have him shoot the rifle - maybe you are getting a little "flinchy" by the third shot.

Chances are though that doing nothing more than loosening the center screw will fix the issue.

drover

Looks to me the barrel has some bottom side pressure. Bbl heating is causing rising poi.. check that first and if so, relieve..

Haven’t read but the first few posts and a couple since.
Then, was it me I would make sure the receiver was bedded in flat meaning any thing over a quarter turn on front and back screws from coming snug to tight isn’t. Middle screw if any should just come snug. Free float barrel from 2” plus\minus from receiver and go from there.

In extreme cases some forend pressure may be required. I have a Rem 700 in 243 that requires it just right to shoot 1.2 MOA. And a M98 ..3006 heavy bbl that shoots 1 in groups at 300 yards, full length bedded. I have no idea what it would do otherwise.....

WHATEVER...

While I agree that barrel heat doesn't necessarily cause shot scattering, it can cause stock material to heat up expand and push the POI one direction or another. My first bolt rifle was a 7mm RM Ruger and when I tried to sight it in the POI kept climbing up and to the left. Removed the 'speed bump' at the end of the stock to free-float the barrel and now it maintains a consistent POI. That was back in 1982 and I've been free-floating my wood-stocked barrels ever since.

The downside to free floating is that group sizes for the first few shots from a cold bore may increase slightly. I consider this an acceptable trade-off fr a barrel tht doesn't change POI due to temperature, humidity or other factors.

That said, I'm not sure that the problem experience by the OP is due to a non-free-floated barrel. Do the easy things before the harder things.
1. I think navlav8r said it first - make sure nether the pistol grip of the sling stud hit the bags during recoil.
2. Check the table for stability. Get a different table if necessary.
3. Make sure the scope and mounts are tight.
4. Make sure the action is properly torqued to the stock.
5. Start with an absolutely cold bore and stock. Shoot 3-4 shots and see if the results are the same. Do it fairly quickly to minimize stock expansion due to barrel heat.
6. Try different ammo.
7. Have someone else shoot it and see if the results are the same.
8. Free-float the barrel and reseal the stock with polyurethane. (This is typically a 20 minute job.)
9. Try a different scope.
10. Bed the action.
11. Change the barrel.

Just a quick update of this subject.

So, eventually, I get the rifle to shoot 1 moa. I had removed the sling, sling stud, unscrew the middle screw a bit, remove the rear sandbag...

There was a huge part of it was because I am not a sharpshooter. I have shot another person's Bergara HMR at the range right after he put a nice sub moa on the target...I couldn't repeat his group.

Hold the rifle real tight with both hands and squeeze the pistol grip firmly as you put pressure on the trigger

Till the skin on your knuckles turn white?

..........700 lvsf........or seven predator......223.......relax..aim.,shoot..repeat

The trick I’ve found, since I can never hold the rifle perfectly stil, is to anticipate when the crosshairs will align with the bull, and then squeeze just before it crosses..,,kind of like leading a bird with a shotgun, but in reverse? Also, I grow weary of shooting a 30-06 in short order and quickly lose my want to use all that extra brain power required to not think too much.🤯

TFF!

How the hell am I supposed to 'relax', while holding 'real tight' and 'squeezing' the fugk outta things?

SD is a good ways off.....I'm betting

Here's the cure to your shooting woes...practice, practice, practice. And then, practice some more.

Prolly wouldn't hurt

Pick up a Caldwell Rock BR front rest. You can spend more,but these are a really good value. Then call Protektor model,and ask them what you need for front and rear bags. Then do what they suggest. You won't EVER have good bench technique,if you are fighting the rifle. You CANT repeat,shot to shot,good technique with a death grip on the rifle. If you could,top bench rest shooters would be doing it. They aren't. There is an underlying myth in the sport,that hunting rifles don't deserve good equipment. Hell,when I was a kid,I'd cut a couple notches in a heavy cardboard box,and shoot off a folding card table. Got the job done,but not to the best of the rifles ability. Or mine.

If that doesn't trip your trigger. I've watched fellas shoot very well,out to 400 yards(the long berm at our club),with a short bi-pod. That comes later. You first need a good foundation and a refined bench technique. Not science,just decent equipment and some trigger time.

When I started in BR, my mentor had me get lined up on the 200 yard target. I told him I was good to go,and he told me to take my hand off the grip. I did and the crosshairs moved slightly off the mothball. He told me that whatever direction they went,the bullet would likely follow. Extreme? Maybe. But in that game "Xs" count, alot.
The point being,before you start launching expensive components take a quick check up. Relax your grip and see if the rig is lying in the rests properly. I still do,and think it's good practice.

You are trying to establish wether or not the rifle/load combination is the best it can be. NO point handicapping yourself with carp bench equipment. There will be lots of opportunities in the field for substandard conditions.

Ouch! That’s harsh, about the QD’s! Been using them for years ( around 20 years), and no problems. Though, they are for a back-up scope, and not been needed. But, when tested....did fine! “If”, and I repeat “IF”, I do my part... my old AI, can put 3 under 2” at 300 yrds.! Now.....your gonna go and give me something else to worry about! memtb


PS: You’re also pretty hard on a scope that served well for over 20 years! Why are ya “pick’n” on my rig !!

Iviax,

You asked "What are your thoughts?"

It's where the FIRST shot goes from a hunting rifle that matters to me!

Test your hunting rifles as to where the first shot goes! If it continues to hit on like those first two shots you have an outstanding hunting rifle.

If it hit's on you don't need more shots!

So what's a reliable test for that?

What ever satisfies you!

I shoot only pre'64 M/70's, my front rest is a Frankford Arsenal plastic model to which I have added a Protector leather bag. My rear rest is a cordura bag similar to the one in the pic, with this equipment I am able to shoot MOA groups most of the time.
First thing I would check is all of the scope mount screws, the ones attaching the bases to the rifle and the screws in the rings. Clean the threads on the screws and the holes with rubbing alcohol or acetone, apply removable strength Loc-tite and re-assemble securely (I don't worry about torque). After the scope is secure check the front and rear action screws, they need to be tight. The middle action screw just needs to be secure, overtightening will put the action in a bind. The screw in the barrel boss just needs to be snugged up, don't overtighten. With those things done shoot a three shot group, pay attention to the position of the forend and sling swivel stud. The rear bag should be further back than in the picture, not touching the pistol grip nor the sling swivel. Grip the rifle with a moderate, you don't have to white knuckle it. Adjust the bags until the crosshairs are centered on your target and squeeze the trigger. Keep you head down and follow thru, don't rush your shot.
Follow these suggestions and I believe you'll see your grouping ability improve. As suggested, practice, practice, practice. Breath control, sight alignment, trigger squeeze and follow thru are the elements to concentrate on here. What I call "trigger time" is the most important part of practice for me, doesn't matter if it is dry firing, shooting rimfires or centerfires the basics apply to all.