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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by George_De_Vries_3rd

I’ve not known battue to embarrass himself.

Nope

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Elkslayer91,

IMO, you're embarrassing yourself...350 yard zero? Really?

Its been my experience after a lot of years of hunting, that most people, in particular the less experienced, get crap advice like you're trying to pawn off. Again, in my limited experience of 38 years of hunting MT, WY, CO, NM, AZ, etc. I've seen a metric chit ton more game shot OVER than under. IMO, the average hunter would be much better off with a 150-200 yard zero as a vast majority of your best opportunities at game come at under 200 yards.

What you're recommending is to set yourself up for the few times that a person shoots over 250 yards, which, again IME, is relatively rare in comparison to the opportunities under 250.

That makes no sense to me for the average guy.

I personally use a 250 yard zero, but I'm very aware of the highest point of trajectory and where that is...and what it means on POA/POI when near that maximum trajectory height. Anything past 300, I twist turrets.

I have my stuff set up for where shot opportunities happen the most often, not the exception.

Oh...and yesterday morning, elk number 71 for me, and my 14th with my 7-08 (all with 140 AB's) 273 yards:

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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
COW ELK KILL ZONE

TOP OF BACK
*********************************
1”
2”
3”
4”
5”
6” – TOP OF BOILER ROOM
7”
8” – ONE THIRD (1/3) FROM TOP OF BACK
9”
10”
11”
12” – MIDDLE OF BOILER ROOM
13”
14”
15”
16” – TWO THIRDS (2/3) FROM TOP OF BACK
17”
18” – BOTTOM OF BOILER ROOM
19”
20”
21”
22”
23”
24” – BOTTOM OF CHEST CAVITY
*********************************

140 gr Partition
.434 BC
2900 fps – OP said just under 2900 fps
1800 fps min for full expansion
Sight zero: 350 yds

7,000 – minimum Elk Hunting
59 degrees F

100 - +5.1
200 – +7.1 inch
300 - +3.8
350 – 0
400 - -(5.4)
450 - -(12.4)
500 - -(21.3)

500 – 2132 fps / 1413 ft lbs

Corrected ballistics. OP stated just under 2900 fps with 140g, and “realistic” Elk hunting will start around 7,000 elev.

So…don’t laugh, 5.1” high at 100 yds with a 350 yrd zero.

So what you guys, who attempted to bust my balls, are saying is you are 100% incapable of being a true marksman, being tens of thousands of hunters for years have done what I will simply state below using the above diagram for reference without having to adjust their scopes:

A 100 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs at the two thirds mark (1/3 up from the bottom of the belly), for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

A 200 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs at the BOTTOM OF BOILER ROOM, (6” FROM BOTTOM OF BELLY) for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

A 300 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs in the middle of the body for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

A 400 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs at the ONE THIRD (1/3) mark down from the TOP OF BACK for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

A 450 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs at the TOP OF BACK for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

A 500 yard shot would require just placing the crosshairs HALF A BODY HEIGHT ABOVE BACK for a dead center boiler room DRT kill.

Instead, you continually obfuscated my statements with lies about shooting at a walking animal, which I never said.

Instead, you continually obfuscated my statements with lies about making a rushed shot, which I never said.

Instead, you continually obfuscated my statements with lies, and lost the debate here, because you were never able to refute the facts I posted above, knowing how to shoot a rifle at different yardages with a certain zero.

Instead, some of you posted very irresponsible hunting actions such as taking extremely high risk shots, where the animal could be wounded, with no chance of a follow-up shot, shooting through a very small opening in heavy cover. That right there is why hunters are required to wear orange…to hopefully not get shot by someone who can not see their target or what is behind it.

Then you have the one who calls them self a “guide” and talks about only seeing a part of the animal, the top half or the head, etc. Gee, if you are really a “guide”, how come your “guide” skills won’t allow you to position yourself better for a responsible humane kill shot, instead of wounding the animal where they can go for miles?

But listen, thanks for the laughs, especially from smokepole who never even answered the OP’s question the first 7 pages while building his post count on this forum to make him self look real important. Sticking his foot in his mouth while butting in, and answering posts not even addressed to him, multiple times, shows the educated people, who read, who is who, who are fakes, and who know what they are talking about. It was fun.

P.S. Just add a little sauce to the above while some of you eat crow. It’ll taste better.






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While ignoring Elkslayer91’s nonsense, and acknowledging that MPBR is a poor way to get hits....


What he’s saying for elk is no different than MPBR for deer with an 8” zone. Elk have at least a 16 inch vital zone, deer around 8 inch. I see zeroing for a 8” MPBR offered as a great way to zero all the time on this forum (and everywhere else), and if it’s ok for deer- why not elk? And if you’re going to do it, why not maximize the range just like with deer?






Some of the posters are not being intellectually honest I think.

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LOL, wat a tool. I responded to your posts because they were bad advice for a new elk hunter. I just hate to see that kind of BS go unchallemged.

You should be asking questions, not giving advice.



A wise man is frequently humbled.

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Originally Posted by smokepole
LOL, wat a tool. I responded to your posts because they were bad advice for a new elk hunter. I just hate to see that kind of BS go unchallemged.

You should be asking questions, not giving advice.


This thread has become entertaining if not informative! 😂😂😂😂😂

Happy Trails


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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
While ignoring Elkslayer91’s nonsense, and acknowledging that MPBR is a poor way to get hits....


What he’s saying for elk is no different than MPBR for deer with an 8” zone. Elk have at least a 16 inch vital zone, deer around 8 inch. I see zeroing for a 8” MPBR offered as a great way to zero all the time on this forum (and everywhere else), and if it’s ok for deer- why not elk? And if you’re going to do it, why not maximize the range just like with deer?






Some of the posters are not being intellectually honest I think.


An 8” MPBR is still a recipe for misses, as far as I’m concerned.... it’s an old school philosophy that’s practical, but better left to Open Sights... and open sight ranges. I use a 6” MPBR on the Open Sighted Muzzleloaders.... that’s good for about 150 yards. The MPBR theory is solid, provided we don’t take it to extremes and try to cover all bases with it.

A 16” MPBR, means that for a significant portion of the bullets flight, it will be 6”-8” above the LOS.... and that +6” occurs at the ranges most elk are actually shot (125-275 yards-ish). I’m with Buzz, the vast majority of critters I miss/see missed in the field..... are shot over. 6”+ over LOS leaves a lot of room to miss with.


You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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Originally Posted by Dogshooter


An 8” MPBR is still a recipe for misses, as far as I’m concerned.... it’s an old school philosophy that’s practical, but better left to Open Sights... and open sight ranges. I use a 6” MPBR on the Open Sighted Muzzleloaders.... that’s good for about 150 yards. The MPBR theory is solid, provided we don’t take it to extremes and try to cover all bases with it.

A 16” MPBR, means that for a significant portion of the bullets flight, it will be 6”-8” above the LOS.... and that +6” occurs at the ranges most elk are actually shot (125-275 yards-ish). I’m with Buzz, the vast majority of critters I miss/see missed in the field..... are shot over. 6”+ over LOS leaves a lot of room to miss with.



Oh there’s no doubt about it- MPBR, as it is most commonly used, is a relatively poor way to approach it. Even with a rudimentary understanding of trajectory, group size, error probability, etc. it is clear why it’s not the panacea that hunters and writers push it as. However, if someone is good with a 4” max height above point of aim on a deer, they should be fine with a 8” max ordinate on an elk. It’s same/same.


Again- Maximum Point Blank Range is a “great” concept that falls on it’s face in execution, yet works just often enough to help people believe it’s a great idea.

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Isn’t that the same idea as a “combat zero” on an M4? Good from up close to 325(?) yards if you aim at the middle of the opponent’s chest?


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Originally Posted by David_Walter
Isn’t that the same idea as a “combat zero” on an M4? Good from up close to 325(?) yards if you aim at the middle of the opponent’s chest?



Yes, and just like it- not a good way to get hits.

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Elkslayer91... I’m guessing born in 1991.


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Originally Posted by Dogshooter
Originally Posted by Formidilosus
While ignoring Elkslayer91’s nonsense, and acknowledging that MPBR is a poor way to get hits....


What he’s saying for elk is no different than MPBR for deer with an 8” zone. Elk have at least a 16 inch vital zone, deer around 8 inch. I see zeroing for a 8” MPBR offered as a great way to zero all the time on this forum (and everywhere else), and if it’s ok for deer- why not elk? And if you’re going to do it, why not maximize the range just like with deer?






Some of the posters are not being intellectually honest I think.


An 8” MPBR is still a recipe for misses, as far as I’m concerned.... it’s an old school philosophy that’s practical, but better left to Open Sights... and open sight ranges. I use a 6” MPBR on the Open Sighted Muzzleloaders.... that’s good for about 150 yards. The MPBR theory is solid, provided we don’t take it to extremes and try to cover all bases with it.

A 16” MPBR, means that for a significant portion of the bullets flight, it will be 6”-8” above the LOS.... and that +6” occurs at the ranges most elk are actually shot (125-275 yards-ish). I’m with Buzz, the vast majority of critters I miss/see missed in the field..... are shot over. 6”+ over LOS leaves a lot of room to miss with.




And the 6-8" high is in the dead zone and usually non-lethal....


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Originally Posted by BuzzH
Elkslayer91,

IMO, you're embarrassing yourself...350 yard zero? Really?
Well, you know what they say about “opinions”, but my opinion is…you just humiliated yourself, for everyone to read for eternity, by admitting you are incapable of utilizing a 350 yard zero, and this is just right after I explained it in a very detailed writing…where even a sixth grader could understand. So cupcake…who’s embarrassing them self?

Originally Posted by BuzzH
Its been my experience after a lot of years of hunting, that most people, in particular the less experienced, get crap advice like you're trying to pawn off. Again, in my limited experience of 38 years of hunting MT, WY, CO, NM, AZ, etc. I've seen a metric chit ton more game shot OVER than under.
It’s been my experience, if you let someone run their “inexperienced” yap long enough, they usually do a great job of humiliating them self to the ones who are experienced…no matter how many years of experience they claim to have.

Further, they never quote “any part” of the original posting in a forum discussion/debate, and refute it with “facts”…just as you. Thirty-eight (38) years of hunting multiple states, and you can’t even figure out how to maximize a rifle’s ability without turning turrets as your crutch…even after it was spelled out to you in a write-up…How sad.


Originally Posted by BuzzH
IMO, the average hunter would be much better off with a 150-200 yard zero as a vast majority of your best opportunities at game come at under 200 yards.
This wasn’t about “you” or the average hunters cupcake. This was about the OP’s request on performance of a bullet, and “out to 400 yards and BEYOND capability”…which is “exactly” what my postings answered.

He even posted he was practicing “550 yard” shots. Did you see that cupcake? I gave him sound advice, “with facts to back it up”, to maximize his rifle. That is what “my experience”, which you obviously do not have, allows me to pass on.

Originally Posted by BuzzH
What you're recommending is to set yourself up for the few times that a person shoots over 250 yards, which, again IME, is relatively rare in comparison to the opportunities under 250.
No cupcake. This is not about “few times”…or you. The OP was practicing “550 yard shots” because the area he planned to hunt “obviously” has “400 and BEYOND” possible shots. That’s what an “experienced” hunter does cupcake. They setup their gear for all possibilities on a particular hunt.

Originally Posted by BuzzH
That makes no sense to me for the average guy.
Who says the average guy wants to stay or just be average? I’d be embarrassed to say that after you just stated above you have 38 years hunting multiple states. Reading comprehension is your friend, instead of trying to bust the balls of an experienced hunter.

Originally Posted by BuzzH
I personally use a 250 yard zero, but I'm very aware of the highest point of trajectory and where that is...and what it means on POA/POI when near that maximum trajectory height. Anything past 300, I twist turrets.
So…someone who uses a 350 yard zero, and is also “very aware of the highest point of trajectory and where that is...and what it means on POA/POI when near that maximum trajectory height” is inexperienced and their advice is crap?

Seriously cupcake…do you even realize how that statement of yours makes you a bubbling hypocrite while you attempt to bust my balls for suggesting a 350 yard zero, which is backed up with “facts”?

I see you too never answered my question on this thread as to, “What’s the difference of a 100, 200, 300, 350 yard zero?” I know why now…your “inexperience” will not allow you to.

Originally Posted by BuzzH
I have my stuff set up for where shot opportunities happen the most often, not the exception.
This thread wasn’t about your set-up. Again, reading comprehension is your friend, unless you are dyslexic.

Originally Posted by BuzzH
Oh...and yesterday morning, elk number 71 for me, and my 14th with my 7-08 (all with 140 AB's) 273 yards:
Maybe you should have just posted this to show the OP his choice will work instead of humiliating yourself with “your” crap advice, gained from 38 years hunting across multiple states.

P.S. I/we don’t shoot cows or 2 year old 4x4 5x5 rag horns. I/we like to see the bulls grow into trophy 6x6 and above, and reach their potential. That is what “experience” is grasshopper. Inexperienced hunters, such as your self, will see it as crap advice undoubtedly.


Last edited by ElkSlayer91; 09/04/18.

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My post was not about MPBR at all.

MPBR is aiming dead center, and relying on the bullet to enter any where inside the given target’s diameter, even at the edges.

The way I described allows for the shooter to place the bullet dead center on every shot, which allows for flinching, wind, etc., not around the edges at the extremes of the trajectory and risking a wounded animal getting away.

My posting addressed utilizing the knowing dimensions of an animal’s body cavity, and utilizing that for different POA to ensure POI in the “center” of the boiler room, not around the edges, while knowing the trajectory of the bullet at varied yardages.

It is really no different than using various reticles, like B& C or Mil Dot, to accomplish the same, center boiler room impact for a humane kill.

I’d encourage you to re-read to fully understand, instead of altering / misinterpreting what was written, so others are not confused.


"He is far from Stupid"

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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91
My post was not about MPBR at all.

MPBR is aiming dead center, and relying on the bullet to enter any where inside the given target’s diameter, even at the edges.

The way I described allows for the shooter to place the bullet dead center on every shot, which allows for flinching, wind, etc., not around the edges at the extremes of the trajectory and risking a wounded animal getting away.

My posting addressed utilizing the knowing dimensions of an animal’s body cavity, and utilizing that for different POA to ensure POI in the “center” of the boiler room, not around the edges, while knowing the trajectory of the bullet at varied yardages.

It is really no different than using various reticles, like B& C or Mil Dot, to accomplish the same, center boiler room impact for a humane kill.

I’d encourage you to re-read to fully understand, instead of altering / misinterpreting what was written, so others are not confused.



Wow. You've just revolutionized long range shooting, right before our eyes. You're a genius, obviously the smartest guy in the room.

Either that or an idiot.



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A 27 year old from Texas lecturing on Elk Hunting... doesn't get more impressive than that smile


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Just get a good bullet like and accubond or partition. Gonna need 1500 ft lbs for a good penetration and expansion

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Whenever your bullet goes past 1500 ft lbs. Look on the box or online on manufacture website. It's probably about 350 but check box of ammo and it should tell you

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Originally Posted by Brad
A 27 year old from Texas lecturing on Elk Hunting... doesn't get more impressive than that smile


Love of “cupcakes” gave him away...😁😎


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Originally Posted by ElkSlayer91



P.S. I/we don’t shoot cows or 2 year old 4x4 5x5 rag horns. I/we like to see the bulls grow into trophy 6x6 and above, and reach their potential. That is what “experience” is grasshopper. Inexperienced hunters, such as your self, will see it as crap advice undoubtedly.



Texas elk expert, ya got to love it.



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