Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns 10mm or 45 Super

I believe the 41 has a lighter slide, thinner barrel and I have read opinions that you should not do that with the 41.

I tried the 45 Super with a Glock 41, and couldn't ever get it to run right. A Glock 21 worked fine.

Good to know.

Buy a 10mm, shoot a ton of .40 through it for practice, shoot and carry 10mm also. I've put several hundred .40 through my Glock model 40. It doesnt cycle 100%, but shoots just fine for range work.

There's a reasonably priced g40 in the classifieds with good sights on it. Jus' sayin'.

My Take for converting a 1911 to 45 Super;

1.) JRH Gunsmithing can increase the time your 1911 stays locked up. Cost around $100 and I feel worth it.

2.) "Extra Power Firing Pin Spring".

3.) "24#+- Recoil Spring"; I would not go over 20 pounds (Mine is 18.x pounds). While a heavier recoil spring will slow the rearward travel of the slide down, it will increase the the return velocity, which can result in failure to feed issues and battering.

4.) "26-30# Main Spring"; I use a heavier main spring, do not recall the weight (but it is not 30 #'s).

5.) "Flat Bottom Firing Pin Stop"; You can leave the FPS as is, or tune it by rounding the bottom a little... if needed for function.

6.) "Shock Buff is a nice addition"; I think this is a good idea... but gave me nothing but issues.

7.) Starline 45 Super Brass; It is stronger than 45 acp brass and I would not shoot 45 Super out of acp brass.

8.) I've been using Power Pistol, works great & have had no issues. Just one option.

9.) DO NOT get 45 Super load data from the guys over at Glock talk. I would not be suprised to hear that some of them have maimed themselves by now.


45 Super conversion is a tuning process. I did the first four and use 45 Super brass. If your brass is being launched into the next zip code... you need to stop and do a little more tuning.

Your gun should also be able to run 45 acp loads just fine===> for less expensive practice.

You can do all except number one yourself, it is nothing but replacing springs and maybe doing a little filing on the FPS until it fits and then slightly rounding the bottom to tune it if need be (If you do #1 you probably won't need a flat bottomed FPS)

If it is a new gun make sure it will run 45 acp before starting.

I've run somewhere between 1,200 and 1,500 rounds of 45 Super through my 1911 with no issues; no cracks, no rattle of the slide, nothing broken.


JWP &/or Oregon45,

Isn't the HK 45 USP actually warranteed by the factory for use of 45 Super?

Jerry

Or buy a 45, shoot a ton of 45 Auto through it, and use the 45 Super ammo for heavier duty work.
Plus, the whole 40 through a 10mm doesn't work so well on 1911s.

JP,

I use both the 10mm, and the .45 Super.

While the 10mm velocity is higher--for most the most part, I prefer the Super, and typically shoot either 250 grain, or 260 grain at 1050 FPS, loaded in Starline brass.

A Glock 21 works fine, but I don't have personal experience with converting a gen 4 model. Possibly there is a recoil rod/spring assembly that is already made that would work. If not, have you looked into the small bushing made by Glock Store that will fit into the recoil rod hole in the front of the slide? If it would work, this would allow you to use a non captured assembly from Wolff.

Here is a video that might help; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-gZuS2Um6o

Of course you could just shell out the scratch for a USP. I've fired 250 grain pills in one since back in 1996, though not loaded to the higher Super pressures...

edit to add this video, which is a better, longer version by Angry Dick;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4MQGY87THY&t=335s

The more I read on this subject, the more I like the idea of a 45 Super. Very interesting stuff here.

Couple thoughts. I've had both (a 6" Springfield 1911 that I ran .45 supers in, and many 10mms).

-.45 super is almost the same ballistics as .460 rowland without all the hassle, so is a better choice for most.

-HK USP is strong, but still not as strong as an all-steel 1911.

-Overall, I like 10mm more due to capacity and factory ammo availability (and more reloading data). But don't forget that you can get a RIA double-stack .45 super for less than $1K and make up for capacity somewhat. Both are excellent choices for big jobs (brownie defense), in my view.

-If you do go .45 super, I think another reason the 1911 is the best platform is that the extra weight will reduce muzzle flip, which is greater in .45 super than 10mm. Conversely, I think a polymer such as my XDM is a good match for the 10mm. Having said that, a 1911 in 10mm is also a very good choice, and will further reduce muzzle flip, making running hot / original 10mms still very fast to mag-dump; more so than a lighter polymer gun.

-Just to reiterate, in case there are beginners here, don't load .45 super loads in .45 acp brass. Brass must be marked .45 super.

-"Buy a 10mm, shoot a ton of .40 through it for practice, shoot and carry 10mm also. I've put several hundred .40 through my Glock model 40" - this is really unsafe due to ringing the cylinder and spiking pressures in 10. It's also a bad idea because you should "practice like you play", in my view.

-Don't forget the .50 GI if you like to go big. I *really* want one of those "double 1911s" but in .50 GI:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCOQf12y3kw

In what way is steel 1911 stronger than an H&K USP with regard to the use of 45 Super? Pressure handling? Recoil absorption? Long-term durability?

Any gen 4 glock can use a gen 3 recoil spring assembly with the addition of a little bushing at the front of the slide. That is very common and done by a lot of people.
It works for both captured and non-captured gen 3 assemlies, even the stock gen 3 spring (but why bother?).

you ever used a rock your glock 24 pound captured ss recoil spring assembly? Its made for the gen4.

Not that particular brand, no. I use 24 lb ISMI springs on a gen 3 captured rod with a gen 4 bushing adapter, which is nothing more than just a little stepped collar. Using a rod with that collar captured in the unit is even better, but I already have mine and haven't felt the need to buy another.

Yes.

I have a Ruger SR1911 I've converted.

Changes are:
30# mainspring
Xtra power Firing pin spring
20# Recoil spring
EGW Flat Firing pin stop.
I also added a Wilson Multi Comp. It replaces the barrel bushing but is not as efficient as a barrel mounted comp. My main objective was more slide mass. Before this addition, ejection was 8 to 10 feet, now it is about 6 feet, which tells me slide velocity is in the typical 45 ACP range. .45 ACP dribbles out.

The load is a Montana Bullet Works 250 grain LBT LFN GC at 1050 fps.

I also had the barrel done where I could lengthen OAL without jamming bullets into the rifling.

Yes you can, I called my Bud today and ask specifically, he has gen 3 and gen 4 21's in 45 Super, he said something again about a bushing for the gen 4's stainless steel guide rod.

Bob you forgot one where is the 9X25 Dillon. Cheers NC P.S. I have one

Bob you forgot one where is the 9X25 Dillon. Cheers NC P.S. I have one

9x25 is a possibility but fairly well down the list....

Just found this over on the 1911 Forums...

https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=994458

Ya'll are getting me VERY interested in .45 Super! I have three 10mm's at the moment - two EAA Witnesses and a RIA 1911, and three .45 ACP's - a Sig 220, a Para "Expert Carry", and an AMT Backup. From what I'm reading on this thread, seems I could just find a good HK 45 and shoot .45 Super in it? I once "converted" a Springfield .45 1911 to .460 Rowland, but got rid of it because it was so darn loud. Would this be a problem with .45 Super? Could Super rounds be fired in a good "stock" .45 1911, without all the spring changes?

Thanks for any help on this.

Mike