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My favorite aiming target is simply an "x" drawn at right angles with a sharpie on white paper. Size and thickness of the lines can vary with the range being shot and magnification of your scope.
Easy and precise.
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Just curious. We're you shooting from a bench, or an improvised device? Not trying to be a smart azz. Just curious. Folks like to start wrenching on rifles,before checking this very important box. Might be easier to address than changing a bunch of things on the rig. Tikkas can be challenging to assemble. Look into that first. Scopes can be a real problem also. But if you aren't shooting from a solid platform,good groups will be hard to come by.
I currently have 3 T3s. I've owned 13 over the years. The worst was an 06. Stainless synthetic. It shot right at MOA. Take a hard look at your bench and technique first. Concrete bench with sand bags on top. Pretty sturdy/stable. 👍😎
"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
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Not saying it's the shooter but when a tikka rifle with a fixed 6 SWFA won't shoot the shooter is suspect
Trystan
Good bullets properly placed always work, but not everyone knows what good bullets are, or can reliably place them in the field
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Not saying it's the shooter but when a tikka rifle with a fixed 6 SWFA won't shoot the shooter is suspect
Trystan Really?!......🙄......Hb
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Joined: Feb 2001
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I don’t shoot “groups” near as well with a 6x.... as I do a 10x or 12x.
You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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Did you try moving the front bag towards the end of the forearm? I’ve seen a few rifles shoot better with the front support about 2” off the front of the forearm.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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I’ve never seen a Tikka really care what you shot it off... bipod, front rest, sandbag, ruck, rolled up jacket off the hood of the truck.... whatever.
I tend to not baby them though... and keep a firm grip with the right hand. Often I’ll shoot them left hand atop the scope, holding the rifle down on the rest/bipod/ruck/etc.
Another thing... the 6.5 Creed bucks a lot more than most people think, especially in a lighter gun. Hell, it’s still a 140 at 2800. They kick less than a .270 (but not a lot).... they’re still more stout than a .257 Roberts, and definitely more than any of the 6’s. Shooting them free recoil, left hand on the rear bag, can be tricky and lead to larger groups.
You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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I’ve never seen a Tikka really care what you shot it off... bipod, front rest, sandbag, ruck, rolled up jacket off the hood of the truck.... whatever.
I tend to not baby them though... and keep a firm grip with the right hand. Often I’ll shoot them left hand atop the scope, holding the rifle down on the rest/bipod/ruck/etc.
Another thing... the 6.5 Creed bucks a lot more than most people think, especially in a lighter gun. Hell, it’s still a 140 at 2800. They kick less than a .270 (but not a lot).... they’re still more stout than a .257 Roberts, and definitely more than any of the 6’s. Shooting them free recoil, left hand on the rear bag, can be tricky and lead to larger groups. Yep. I usually lay my left hand on the front scope ring. Never had much luck with it at the back bag. Especially if you ever tried squeezing the back bag to fine tune the shot. The only rifle I shot free recoil was a PPC bench rifle. Everything else is controlled.
"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
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I’ve never seen a Tikka really care what you shot it off... bipod, front rest, sandbag, ruck, rolled up jacket off the hood of the truck.... whatever.
I tend to not baby them though... and keep a firm grip with the right hand. Often I’ll shoot them left hand atop the scope, holding the rifle down on the rest/bipod/ruck/etc.
Another thing... the 6.5 Creed bucks a lot more than most people think, especially in a lighter gun. Hell, it’s still a 140 at 2800. They kick less than a .270 (but not a lot).... they’re still more stout than a .257 Roberts, and definitely more than any of the 6’s. Shooting them free recoil, left hand on the rear bag, can be tricky and lead to larger groups. Agree with this 100%.!! Roy
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Joined: Jan 2019
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OP
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I’ve never seen a Tikka really care what you shot it off... bipod, front rest, sandbag, ruck, rolled up jacket off the hood of the truck.... whatever.
I tend to not baby them though... and keep a firm grip with the right hand. Often I’ll shoot them left hand atop the scope, holding the rifle down on the rest/bipod/ruck/etc.
Another thing... the 6.5 Creed bucks a lot more than most people think, especially in a lighter gun. Hell, it’s still a 140 at 2800. They kick less than a .270 (but not a lot).... they’re still more stout than a .257 Roberts, and definitely more than any of the 6’s. Shooting them free recoil, left hand on the rear bag, can be tricky and lead to larger groups. Thanks, I will try it out!
Well, we don't rent pigs, and it's better to say it right up front because a man who does like to rent pigs is — well, he's hard to stop.
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Depends on what you bough it for.
If you bought it to shoot itty bitty groups, you might be disappointed shooting groups with a 6x scope at 100 or 200 yds.
If you bought it for a hunting rifle and are going to kill stuff bigger than chipmonks, maybe not.
How many times do you shoot 3,4 or 10 times at a game animal. Usually for me it takes one, sometimes two. Very seldom more.
You did not mention whether you shoot over a chrony to develp an accuracy vs a velocity correlation.
I do, and after I make a choice on the load I will hunt with, I'm particulary concerned with first shot out of a cold barrel that has been fouled in.
One could always take and shoot one round and if he was satisfied that he did his part, wait until the barrel reached ambient temperature, then fire a second round, then do the same, ad nauseum.
Or he could go on three different occasions and shoot the same target at the same distance. That might give you a better indication of what to expect from your "hunting" rifle!
GWB
You stated this is for a hunting rifle, correct? I agree with this method, since the first shot is the one that counts. I understand shooting groups for consistency in the desired ammo, but 10/5 shot groups shouldn't be much of a consideration for your stated application. Once you have performed some of the suggestions these guys have suggested, try the cold bore method GWB stated above and post your results. For a hunting rifle, I bet you will be quite satisfied.
I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery - Thomas Jefferson
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Get rid of that SWFA and get you a Leupold.  Nobody else posted a pic of a 10 round group so how is a cherry picked 3 shot group a fair comparison?Like another poster said I am more interested in where the first bullet goes from a cold barrel.That only applies if you actually hunt,not post pics of 3 shot groups.Funny, I never shot in any competition that used 3 shot groups as a standard.I would be more than happy with that 10 shot group and would use it on any type of a large game hunt.JMHO,Huntz
Its all right to be white!!
Stupidity left unattended will run rampant
Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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Get rid of that SWFA and get you a Leupold. Nobody else posted a pic of a 10 round group so how is a cherry picked 3 shot group a fair comparison?Like another poster said I am more interested in where the first bullet goes from a cold barrel.That only applies if you actually hunt,not post pics of 3 shot groups.Funny, I never shot in any competition that used 3 shot groups as a standard.I would be more than happy with that 10 shot group and would use it on any type of a large game hunt.JMHO,Huntz If you'd be happy, why change the scope?  It's actually been pretty "bullseye" on cold bore shots. I'd still like to get this thing dialed in. The more consistent, the better right?
Well, we don't rent pigs, and it's better to say it right up front because a man who does like to rent pigs is — well, he's hard to stop.
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Get rid of that SWFA and get you a Leupold. Nobody else posted a pic of a 10 round group so how is a cherry picked 3 shot group a fair comparison?Like another poster said I am more interested in where the first bullet goes from a cold barrel.That only applies if you actually hunt,not post pics of 3 shot groups.Funny, I never shot in any competition that used 3 shot groups as a standard.I would be more than happy with that 10 shot group and would use it on any type of a large game hunt.JMHO,Huntz If you'd be happy, why change the scope? It's actually been pretty "bullseye" on cold bore shots. I'd still like to get this thing dialed in. The more consistent, the better right? Because they are fugly.  6X is plenty scope for normal hunting,but I gravitate to something lighter.I do not twirl the dial.I have had good luck with a 6X36 Leupold with LR reticle.Light,strong and once you know where the dots shoot you are good to 500 yards.Too often in the real world you do not have time to do much besides take a reading with your range finder and shoot.If I know were my bullets going to land your only variable is windage.If you have shot enough high power you should be able to read the wind through mirage or plant movement enough to get you a good Kentucky hold off for windage.These are basic shooting skills that will get you lots of game down with one shot, muy pronto.
Its all right to be white!!
Stupidity left unattended will run rampant
Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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The first Tikka (a 270) I had wasn't a great shooter until I ran some J&B through the bore and retorqued the action screws. Look for a target with bold horizontal and vertical lines in the center you can line your cross hairs up on. I have some Rangemaxx and Hoppes targets like that. Here's a link to another good one https://shop.brownells.com/shooting...msclkid=58e6bbebc92b152cdfade6e6e7d66cd5
Last edited by Bill_N; 06/21/19.
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Maybe I missed it, but did you Drexel out the speed bumps a few inches behind the front swivel stud?
I have better luck with my Tikkas shooting with a firm grip front and back.
And I may have missed this, too, but did you try different loads? Mayb your rifle just doesn't like that bullet or powder.
The never-ending flight
Of future days.
Paradise Lost. Book ii. Line 221
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Maybe I missed it, but did you Drexel out the speed bumps a few inches behind the front swivel stud?
I have better luck with my Tikkas shooting with a firm grip front and back.
And I may have missed this, too, but did you try different loads? Mayb your rifle just doesn't like that bullet or powder. No, I have not. I'm going to wait on modifying the stock. I've read many pros and cons on doing so. Some guns shoot better, some don't. Yeah, all factory stuff right now, but several different loads.
Well, we don't rent pigs, and it's better to say it right up front because a man who does like to rent pigs is — well, he's hard to stop.
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Oh, I did check my action screws. I should have stepped it up slowly, but I set it to 42lbs and got the screw to turn a good bit before clicking. I'm going to try that in the morning.
Edit: by a good bit, I mean at least a 1/4 turn on each.
Last edited by WoodrowFCall; 06/21/19.
Well, we don't rent pigs, and it's better to say it right up front because a man who does like to rent pigs is — well, he's hard to stop.
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Not saying it's the shooter but when a tikka rifle with a fixed 6 SWFA won't shoot the shooter is suspect
Trystan Really?!......🙄......Hb Yes really and there's not a thing wrong with that nor would it be anything to be ashamed of. Perhaps his eyes don't work well with a low power scope? If they don't that's the shooters eyes. It is not likely to be the scope because fixed 6 SWFA'S are fairly renowned for being dead nuts accurate. So are tikka's. The man asked for advice so instead of leading him in circles I offered it straight and did leave room that it is a possibility it may be the rifle or scope. Odds are pretty low of a faulty tikka or SWFA fixed power scope though it is not impossible
Last edited by Trystan; 06/21/19.
Good bullets properly placed always work, but not everyone knows what good bullets are, or can reliably place them in the field
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I’ve never seen a Tikka really care what you shot it off... bipod, front rest, sandbag, ruck, rolled up jacket off the hood of the truck.... whatever.
I tend to not baby them though... and keep a firm grip with the right hand. Often I’ll shoot them left hand atop the scope, holding the rifle down on the rest/bipod/ruck/etc.
Another thing... the 6.5 Creed bucks a lot more than most people think, especially in a lighter gun. Hell, it’s still a 140 at 2800. They kick less than a .270 (but not a lot).... they’re still more stout than a .257 Roberts, and definitely more than any of the 6’s. Shooting them free recoil, left hand on the rear bag, can be tricky and lead to larger groups. I agree the tikka doesn't much care what you shoot it off of. IME there also not finicky about holding perfect form. The tikka's I've owned have shown this repeatedly especially when putting a number of inexperienced shooter behind the rifle a lot more than once and watching them print a nice group.
Last edited by Trystan; 06/21/19.
Good bullets properly placed always work, but not everyone knows what good bullets are, or can reliably place them in the field
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