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Gettin ready for elk season, sounds like this is the shnizzle for loose powder? Anyone runnin it? Should I be trying something else? Thanks


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Best i have used. Have to use hoppes or similar to clean up. Im running barnes 250gn tmz with 110gn by volume powder at aroud 2k the one time i chronoed it. Have shot up to 10 times without cleaning just to see. Minimal accuracy lost, but those barnes do get harder to shove down barrel after 3 shots or so.


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Great stuff

I shoot 75grs by weight


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Thanks guys


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This has been discussed to death, but just in case you missed it, BH209 is great stuff, but only in guns that can use it. It needs hot 209 ignition and projectiles with good bore resistance for proper ignition. If in doubt about your setup, check with the manufacturer of your gun and the Blackhorn site. Most inlines are good to go, but there are some exceptions.


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Yep, "use enough primer."



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Originally Posted by Bearcat74

Great stuff

I shoot 75grs by weight


I weigh the charges I carry in tubes, then set a volume measure to match. I have three measures, and all are a bit different. No biggie, just like with other loose powders; a grain or two difference makes no matter. I just find it easier and neater to weigh the charges for the tubes; no waste or mess.

For the OP, BH weighed charges are 70% of weighed black powder, volume is the same, so if you're using a measure, just set it as per usual with black or 777. Just like 777, BH will likely be a bit faster than BP at the same charge level.

Best to get what you'll need early, this stuff disappears fom the shelves pretty quickly.


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Copy we can run 209’s now, gonna give the federal bor lok copper whatever they’re called a whirl


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Forgot to mention i got a different breechplug for the cva i run. Slightly bigger flash hole i believe. I also use regular winchester shotgun primers, not the 209 primers made for bp. I dont think it makes any difference out here in the desert but might in the rainforest up there.


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Originally Posted by Judman
Copy we can run 209’s now, gonna give the federal bor lok copper whatever they’re called a whirl



Cci 209m or Fed 209a light it off better.


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Originally Posted by Judman
Gettin ready for elk season, sounds like this is the shnizzle for loose powder? Anyone runnin it? Should I be trying something else? Thanks


I love the stuff Jud. You can shoot and shoot till you don’t feel like it any longer. No worrying about cleaning between shots and stuff like that. I typically weigh my charges out and fill the little plastic vials with the weighed charges. Pretty easy to put 4-5 rounds worth in a ziplock and go hunting.


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[Linked Image]

This is with the Federal Bor Loks you mentioned, the 270’s.

Those Bor Loks are hell on deer

[Linked Image]

Not sure I’d wanna run one into an elk, but man they open up and hurt stuff pretty nicely.

[Linked Image]

Plain old CCI Magnum 209’s work well for my brother using his CVA Optima as well.


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Nice brother, those are them, I’ll see how they behave on elk in a month... looks like they open up good!!


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Hornady XTP 300gr, crush rib sabot, 100gr by volume Blackhorn
Exit hole at 75 yards

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Another vote for the 300gr XTP over 100gr vol.BH. These bullets are inexpensive, accurate, and are devastating on deer!

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I also use the 300 gr. XTP with a crush rib sabot and B209 powder. I hunt in the timber and most shots are under 100 yards, usually about half that. I use 85 grs. by volume of Blackhorn. Very accurate and consistent, kills deer deader than Disco. Blackhorn is easy to work with. I don't swab between shots while sighting in and practicing, and clean up at the end of the season is a breeze. Hoppe's #9 and B209 crude wipes out easily.


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I mainly use the Speer .458 300gr but sometimes use the Barnes Original PSP .458 in the Black Harvester Crush Rib sabot in my Encore.


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Ping pong balls for the win.
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Originally Posted by Judman


Must be a Bass Pro cap. I checked it there and then went to Sportsmans Warehouse and bought it for $39


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It only costs a little bit more to go first class! Lol

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Stopped in a local gun shop yesterday, he had a few cans so I grabbed 1. Stuff is pretty rare around here


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You're gonna love it J-Man. I'm still shooting a knight disc
(Orange) from 20(?) Years ago with a Burris FF3-9x from the same time period. Its always been a good shooter with harvester crush rib and .44 240gr XTP's. But 100Gr. Of BH209 is by far the most accurate. Had trouble with regular 209's failing to ignite loads and switched to CCI 209M's. No issue since. Bought a T/C encore 209x50 for the boy and need to sight it in. Forgot to take it with me today.



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Copy I'll pick up some cci 209 mags. Thanks jack


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Will be shooting some BH209 tonite. I've played with 777 for too long (on my 3rd year) - cleaning every shot or two. Got the BH209 breech plug for the CVA Accura V2 and will use the stock plug in my T/C Omega and low charge weights.

Blackhorn recommends either the Fed 209A or CCI 209A. I've been running the Fed, so I'll start with that.

The stuff looks a lot like SR-4759 with the hollow, macaroni-like grains. Not at all like the ground-up charcoal of Triple 7.

Killed a Leupold FX-III 6x42 last range session with the Muzzleloaders in tow. I think the SWFA 6x42 switchover will handle the job. Utah hunt is only 3 weeks out.

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Someone care to give me the diameter of the CCI 209A vs the Fed 209A? Blowby has been an issue with the CVA, which I think has mostly been a headspace issue (known to CVA) rather that a tight fit of the primer. But if the CCI 209A fits tighter, I'd be inclined to switch.

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Nice kill a goodun!!


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All we had locally so I’ll give em a try..
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I’m shooting it in my Muzzleloader with 250 gr Thor’s. I shoot 110 gr by volume and it shoots pretty damn good. I did have some trouble with Winchester primers but after switching to CCI’s no issues whatsoever. I also had to swap out the breach plug on my CVA to use BH. Praying like hell I get to put one of those Thor’s in a bull after Sat morning!

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I was pleasantly surprised during my range session with BH209 last nite. I was running weighed charges and had previously determined 73.3 gr (wt) = 100 gr vol. Shot some Barnes 290 gr TMZ and TEZ's in the CVA Accura V2 and the Fed 209A using 70 and 75 gr by wieght. About 10 shots total, which included sighting in a new scope. So, 1 shot at 50 yds, 3 shots @ 100 and the rest @ 150. I did clean once after 6 shots just to see. Cleaned with T/C Bore Butter followed by a clean patch. It did come out dirty, but you don't feel the "crud ring". Last two shots with 75.o gr were right at 1" at the 150 yd line. Wish I had switched over last year - all that talk about BH209 seemed too good to be true - WELL IT ISN'T!!!

I feel the flat based TEZ shoots and loads better than the boattail designed TMZ.

Good luck on your elk hunt AlaskaCub. A Colorado elk MZ hunt is next on my list. I'm playing around with the 300 gr Thor and the 300 gr Powerbelt Aerolite for a non-saboted, CO-legal bullet.

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I use exclusively, my knight and my wife’s Impact.


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Copy just got some federal bor loks coming today, we’ll see how she does


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I wouldn't use bore butter if I were you. Hoppe's will do the trick.

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Cleaned with T/C Bore Butter followed by a clean patch.


Why in the world would you do that with BH209?

First off Bore Bummer is not a cleaner its a lubricant and second BH209 is a nitro based powder. Do you clean your centerfires with Bore Bummer too? Overall its a pretty piss poor product as far as protection goes. Any good synthetic gun oil does a better job at preventing rust. If you want to patch with something between shots use a 50/50 mix of Hoppes and 91% ISO alcohol. Its really not needed but i know some competitive shooters that do with that mix.

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I used Bore Butter because these were the cleaning patches I had with me at in my MZ shooting kit I brought to the range the first day I tried me some BH209 - that's all. I do know that i put two shots into an inch at 150 yds after cleaning, Patches were pretty dirty after the first 7 shots. I'm not a big fan of having bottles of liquid cleaner at the range. I also have some T/C T17 saturated cleaning patches that are made for cleaning 777 and BH209,

So . . . . how many shots do you guys take at the range before you clean the barrel? I based my cleaning on when I noticed a change in seating of the saboted bullets.

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You missed the point entirely. BH209 should not be cleaned up with water based solvents. Its right on the Western website. You can make up patches yourself with the mix i suggested. Store them in a similar container as the over priced pretreated patches come in. You can probably make 4 times as many patches for the same amount of money or less and it wont be a water based solvent....Use whatever centerfire solvent you normally use cut 50% with 91% ISO or ISO based fuel line deicer. Its simple and cheap. A bottle of ISO HEET is under $2 at most auto parts stores or Walmart.

When shooting sabots i almost never swab when shooting BH209. There is no need to do it. Ive loaded well over 20 shots with no problems whatsoever. When shooting sabotless it does help sometimes if the bullets are sized on the tight side.

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Originally Posted by MuskegMan

Someone care to give me the diameter of the CCI 209A vs the Fed 209A? Blowby has been an issue with the CVA, which I think has mostly been a headspace issue (known to CVA) rather that a tight fit of the primer. But if the CCI 209A fits tighter, I'd be inclined to switch.


These wont be exact but its pretty close. Lot to lot variations are somewhat large for 209 primers. If you can find them i would suggest the Nobel primers. They are called NSI 209/686 or 209/688 but the 688s can be a pain to find. The Nobels fit the CVA plugs the best and work fine. They are as long as the Win209s but larger OD. They will NOT fit some USA made breach plugs like Knights. Mag primers that belch fouling into your breach are worse than a standard primer that seals well. 90% of the time i use a standard Win209 in my plugs without a single hickup. Just keep your flash channel clean of carbon.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Do this with a 1/8" bit around every 15 shots. Better your primer seals the less carbon will build up so you might even be able to go longer. Mag primers leave more carbon.
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Quote
Minimal accuracy lost, but those barnes do get harder to shove down barrel after 3 shots or so.


The Barnes ML bullets that I use are tapered at the base. I seat the sabot on the powder with the ramrod and then drop in the bullet and seat it. Easy to do and every time that I have checked, same accuracy as seating the conventional way. miles


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I've been using BH209 for over 3 years and I love it. Good velocities and no swabbing between shots. Cleans up easily with a few patches of Hoppes #9. I'm sold!

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I run 120gr BH209, 250 gr SST's, MMP sabots and CCI 209M. = 1 tiny index finger sized hole at 100 yards. Devastating on mule deer! Thumb sized going in, first sized going out. Femur, ribs, back, it don't matter it's going all the way through like a freight train. Nose straight in the dirt!

Haven't figured out how to get muzzle velocity without destroying my chrono yet, but manufacture puts it as over 2100 FPS with loose sabots, but mine are tight.



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Originally Posted by Overkill45
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Cleaned with T/C Bore Butter followed by a clean patch.


Why in the world would you do that with BH209?

First off Bore Bummer is not a cleaner its a lubricant and second BH209 is a nitro based powder. Do you clean your centerfires with Bore Bummer too? Overall its a pretty piss poor product as far as protection goes. Any good synthetic gun oil does a better job at preventing rust. If you want to patch with something between shots use a 50/50 mix of Hoppes and 91% ISO alcohol. Its really not needed but i know some competitive shooters that do with that mix.


Okay, I read their FAQ's. Clean with "regular" centerfire sovents.

No need to grease up the breech plug either (but I still do for some reason)

Can't believe this stuff isn't considered smokeless since it's made with nitrocellulose.

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I still use oil on the plug threads too. Just a little and wipe off any excess. Some states did consider it to be smokeless. Im pretty sure most have changed that ruling now.

My favorite way to clean BH209 fouling is run a dry patch or two first all the way through the bore with the plug removed. That will push out most of it. Then use whatever centerfire solvent you like to actually clean the bore. After its clean run a couple of patches with a synthetic gun oil or CLP.

BH209 fouling is virtually non corrosive but under some conditions such as high humidity it can happen. So if you have more than one tag to fill just run a dry patch to swab most of it out after your first shot of the hunt. That should get you a couple days or more without much risk of any rust.

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Stuff is expensive, but dam it just plain works. I tried some Alliant Black MZ this weekend. Price is right, but doesn’t compare to BH209 unfortunately.


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What diameter are the 300gr XTPs you're using? 44cal or 45 cal? Are they the standard or magnum XTPs?

Thanks, Dinny


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I have been using it for a few years. It is probably the best substitute if you have the right type breechplug and priming system to take advantage of it.

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Originally Posted by Dinny
What diameter are the 300gr XTPs you're using? 44cal or 45 cal? Are they the standard or magnum XTPs?

Thanks, Dinny

45. Standard I believe. Ill check

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FWIW, my crew has used the .45s. Standards. Killer-dillers.


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BH209 SURE Doesn’t work for my Applications. I shoot mostly “Land Riding/Slip fit Bullets For Target/Bench Rest, BH209 Requires X Amount of Compression in order to Reliably ignite, I went ahead and tried it anyway. This was in my New Knight Mountaineer .45 Cal 1:20 Twist, With New Lehigh Breech Plug. I had 2 Bullets Roll out of my Barrel By the Force of the Primer Going off, They actually went a little ways 😁 Like 15 Yards or so and Rolled down the Old Road i was Setup in. I sat there at my Bench and Actually laughed, I couldn’t believe that a 209 Shotgun Primer could Go Through the Powder Charge, push the Bullet out of the Barrel and NOT set the Charge off?? I went back to Swiss Real Blackpowder, it goes off Immediately regardless of Compression. Shoot what works best for ya 👍


The best use i found for BH209, a Roadside Flare
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when it comes to inlines, blackhorn209 only! I'd say lewis had an issue with the knight breech set up in general. I can load up a powerbelt or thor, seat the projectile with 2 thumbs over the end of the ramrod and she goes bang every single time. This is with a CVA/Traditions. Even my Winchester X-150 will shoot it reliably with the hex head (enclosed) cva breech plug without a hitch.

My brother in laws new mexico buck from last week. 110gr bh209. barnes tmz 245gr, federal 209a primer. 201 yard shot.
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Originally Posted by bigblock455
when it comes to inlines, blackhorn209 only! I'd say lewis had an issue with the knight breech set up in general. I can load up a powerbelt or thor, seat the projectile with 2 thumbs over the end of the ramrod and she goes bang every single time. This is with a CVA/Traditions. Even my Winchester X-150 will shoot it reliably with the hex head (enclosed) cva breech plug without a hitch.

My brother in laws new mexico buck from last week. 110gr bh209. barnes tmz 245gr, federal 209a primer. 201 yard shot.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


That is a GIANT STUD Of a Whitetail Buck right there!! That’s a Dream Buck 👍

Me and BH209 was a Disaster!! I absolutely DESPISE that Stuff!! I obviously don’t need it, nor feel like I’m missing anything by not using it!! My Breech plug setup is designed for BH209, It is a Brand New Lehigh Bare Primer Plug and is properly Headspaced for ZERO Blow back

This is me at 600 Yards with my Knight Mountaineer and Swiss Real Blackpowder


And Here i am at 825 Yards with my Knight Mountaineer and Swiss Real Blackpowder, I need to get back for part 2 of this


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thats fine and all but you just didnt put the time and effort into shooting it IMO. If its not firing it, thats a plug problem.

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This is typical Accuracy that i get, and i FULLY EXPECT from my Knight Mountaineer and Swiss 2F Real Blackpowder. I don’t see how I could better this with BH209? Again, I don’t feel like i am missing anything by not using BH209

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I am not knocking BH209 for folks that use, and swear by it. I know it is used and LOVED By MANY! It wins Competition inline Shoots etc. etc. I am simply giving my opinion of it, from my hands on experience with it, Which wasn’t good! I have questioned if the Can of it that i got was Somehow Bad? It was on a Close out here at our North 40 Outfitters, They couldn’t hardly give this BH209 away here! It sat on the Shelf FOREVER even at the Close out price of 19-20 Bucks a Can. I went ahead and Bought a Can just in case i ended up with a Rifle someday that was designed for it. I am Glad I only bought 1 Can of it.


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IdahoLewis, I never had good results with it neither . The cost is high. I am going to go with just black powder and think I am going to stick with Old Eyensford. A bit cheaper than Swiss, a bit cleaner than Goex. I went back to goes, this weekend and noticed it makes more gunk on the patch between shots. I am only at 50 gr anyway for 2F and 45 for 3F. That Green Mountain Barrel does shoot tighter groups than the TC Hawken, however the TC Hawken barrel was bought used .


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I've shot darn near 70 POUNDS of it, so I think I have quite a bit more experience than most with bh209. Especially in so called muzzleloaders that are not even supposed to be able to shoot it. Im not a huge knight fan to begin with, never trusted the company or their product. Luckily for me I stick to my sidelocks these days. The inline stuff isn't the way to go.

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Truth is i did NOT stick with BH209 and Try to make it work, When it FAILED to ignite my TRIED AND TRUED Target Loads OVER N OVER, i was DONE with BH209 Right there.

My first outing, I had pre weighed BH209 charges (I weigh all of my powder to a 1/10 Grain) My bullets just barely touched the Rifling on the way Down, My Ramrod alone was enough weight to push them down, I was using Oversize .50 Cal 1/8” Wool Felt in my .452 Bore, I pulled the Trigger, The Cap went off, But NO Boom?? I checked the Bullet with my Ramrod to make sure it hadn’t moved (a 209 Shotgun primer ALONE can easily Push a Bullet ahead) I grabbed another REGULAR Win 209 Primer and Tried again, NOTHING?? I tried this several times, FINALLY 1 of these attempts Spit My bullet out in the Rd in front of me??? I sat at my Bench thinking to myself, Did i just see this happen? LOL! It was FRUSTRATING as hell, But at the same time it was kinda funny (if that makes sense?) I could NOT believe what i had just witnessed?? A 209 Shotgun Primer Going OFF Through a Powder Charge and Pushing my Bullet out of my Barrel. For crying out loud I just watched my Bullet go about 10-15 Yards tumbling down the Rd in front of me 😂🤣😂 I pointed my Barrel straight at the Ground and popped 2 or 3 more Primers Through it in hopes of Clearing the Wool Wad, it did.

The Reason i say Compression was my problem, is i had Brought along .060 Vegetable Fibre Wads to Try as well, They Create a MUCH Tighter seal, They go down the Bore with Fair Resistance. I loaded the Rifle back up, BUT this time i used a TIGHT fitting Vege Fibre Wad on the Powder. I Pulled the Trigger and BOOM! That shot went off IMMEDIATELY. I was DARN Lucky i had brought the Tight fitting Vege Fibre Wads along this Trip, They saved the Day, Allowing me to Fire my New Rifle. But even with the Vege Fibre Wads they were Hit & Miss, With several Fail to Fires.

That was the END of me and BH209 Powder.


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If i were to go back and Try BH209 again today with new Knowledge and understanding of it, I could make it work, BUT that would require me to Change my ENTIRE Loading procedure by using TIGHT Fitting Bullets, or Sabots. I am simply NOT willing to do that, My Stuff is TRIED AND TRUED PROVEN and I’m not about to Change it in order to make BH209 Work for me.

Simply Put, BH209 Does NOT work for my Specific Application. My feelings aren’t hurt in the least, I don’t feel that i am missing anything. My Swiss Real Blackpowder Works STELLAR for me, It goes off IMMEDIATELY regardless of Bullet Fit, Wad type, etc.

This explains my Problem, as I’ve said before It was my Own Fault that BH209 didn’t work for me, Western Powders tells you what you need to do, or at least what they Recommend that you do. Scroll down and Open No. 5

https://www.blackhorn209.com/specs/ignition-guidelines/

A muzzleloader is different than a cartridge gun, but many of the principles relative to the propellant are the same. The bullet is seated in the cartridge to create the pressure necessary to propel the bullet. A bullet in a muzzleloader needs to be compressed against the powder. The base of the bullet, or sabot needs to expand to hold the building pressure which propels the bullet. Imagine you placed a bullet 1 inch ahead of the case in a cartridge gun. The bullet most likely would not exit the barrel. This same principle works in a muzzleloader. Loose fitting bullets, like the typical Powerbelts, may be convenient to load, but lack sufficient compression to assure consistent ignition or accuracy.

Because there are no standards in muzzleloading barrels, the diameters vary between all manufacturers and at times within the same manufacturer. A Powerbelt may fit nicely in one and slide to the bottom of another. Just the simple act of carrying your gun in the field may allow the bullet to slide forward and when compression of the powder is lost the result is a misfire or poor accuracy.

We recommend a quality tight fitting sabot for the most consistent accuracy and ignition.

Last edited by Idaholewis; 10/08/19.

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I had similar partial ignition on a cold range session and I'm done with it also.
Granted my original DISC is not the ideal setup, it had worked fine in warm temps.
December 25 degrees checking zero before season, giving my uncle some loading instruction, 2" fresh snow.
I was able to follow the tracks of the skipping sabot and did find one bullet of the 5 or so misfires.
I have a feeling it was due to the temp and sabot fit of the Hornady's, maybe CCI standard 209 primers also.

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I FULLY DISAGREE with Western Powders No. 5 (Loose Bullet with inadequate seal or Compression)

They make it sound like a Tight fitting Bullet, or Sabot is NEEDED For Accuracy, BULLSH&T!!! Tell that to the World Champions that Shoot “Land Riding” Paper Patch Bullets and WIN Championship Shoots, Set Records, Etc. Etc. My most accurate loads are “Land Riding” Bullets, They slide down the Bore with Virtually no effort

I believe Western Powders say’s that CRAP to cover their @ss if Theirs BH209 Fails to ignite, They can tell you “We told you so” Either that or they really are IGNORANT! Their BH209 Requires a Tight SEAL, Compression on the Powder in order to Reliably ignite it. If you are doing less and getting away with it that’s GREAT! But when it fails, you were Warned!

Here is an example of me Loading 1 of my “Land Rider” Target Bullets, Note how EASILY this Bullet goes down my Bore. I was shooting steel here this Day at 600 Yards with this Load



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Originally Posted by JBhunter45
I had similar partial ignition on a cold range session and I'm done with it also.
Granted my original DISC is not the ideal setup, it had worked fine in warm temps.
December 25 degrees checking zero before season, giving my uncle some loading instruction, 2" fresh snow.
I was able to follow the tracks of the skipping sabot and did find one bullet of the 5 or so misfires.
I have a feeling it was due to the temp and sabot fit of the Hornady's, maybe CCI standard 209 primers also.


I meant to mention “Partial ignition” as well, BH209 WILL MOST DEFINITELY Start to ignite, and Stop! I sent Bullets to a Friend in Tennessee to Shoot in his new Knight Mountaineer, His Bore is tighter than mine, i sized the Bullets to .451-.452? Anyway they ended up loading Tighter than he felt Comfortable with, But he stil Shot Groups 1 Day while he was Waiting for his Swinglock Sizer die. He was using Oversize 1/8” Wool Felt Wads (.50 Cal Wads in his .450 Bore) The Bullets went down HARD,

After shooting, He called me and told me about a Couple of REALLY ODD things he had happen, With the Above Oversize Wool felt Wads his first Shot had Barely any Felt Recoil to it? Of course it Sounded Odd as well? The Bullet had Cleared the Barrel, But did NOT even make it to the Target, He had this happen at least 2 Different Times, SO the powder charge was DEFINITELY igniting, but also Stopping??? The only thing i can figure here is the LOSS of Pressure Through the Wool Wad, and around/Through the Rifling Grooves, it HAD TO BE THIS, Because when he Switched over to TIGHT Vegetable Fibre Wads the Problem COMPLETELY went away! He was able to Shoot Several Groups without a Hitch, But Wool Felt Wads was a NO GO!


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Pappy nailed this down earlier in the thread.

BH209 was designed for sabot/bullet or Powerbelt shooting in .50 inlines.
It is just that simple.
Western Powders does not offer load recommendations for .45's.

Correct and clean plugs with correct dimensions, hot 209 primers and tight fitting sabots/Powerbelts and never a problem here regardless of temperatures or weather conditions.

The ease of clean up, not needing to swab between shots and the ability to leave a charge in a barrel for a LONG time makes it worth using. You just have to use it as designed by Western.


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Originally Posted by WTM45
Pappy nailed this down earlier in the thread.

BH209 was designed for sabot/bullet or Powerbelt shooting in .50 inlines.
It is just that simple.
Western Powders does not offer load recommendations for .45's.

Correct and clean plugs with correct dimensions, hot 209 primers and tight fitting sabots/Powerbelts and never a problem here regardless of temperatures or weather conditions.

The ease of clean up, not needing to swab between shots and the ability to leave a charge in a barrel for a LONG time makes it worth using. You just have to use it as designed by Western.




Blackhorn works fine in a 45cal. Its been proven 1000s of times just at Friendship alone. What do you think has won the majority of times at inline matches the last 5+ years?...Give ya a hint it aint sabots and it aint a 50cal.

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I never said it did not work in .45's. Never said one HAD to use a sabot or Powerbelt.
I know it works in .40's. But those rifles are being built and shot by guys who specialize in long range muzzleloading.

Might want to re-read my post. I simply stated the facts from Western.



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And i never said that you said it NEVER worked either skippy. laugh

Might want to re-read my post too before your panties get bunched up. crazy

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I could actually hear it fizzling in the gun, loose grains all over the snow in front of the bench, sabot around 30-40 feet out.

Our muzzle loader season is only two weeks long at the end of December, I work weekdays, so I might hunt 4 days at most.
I did the research, not worth the cash to convert to primer only bolt and head spaced breach, and decided to try 777 loose.
Now my hunting area is in a CWD zone, and DNR lets us use any firearm season legal guns.

Last edited by JBhunter45; 10/09/19.
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Originally Posted by JBhunter45
I could actually hear it fizzling in the gun, loose grains all over the snow in front of the bench, sabot around 30-40 feet out.


Now there’s a REAL Confidence Booster Huh? Especially if you are getting ready for a Hunt, At least it was from a Bench and Not at Game. Just like When i had the 2 Bullets Pop out of my Barrel and Roll down the Rd in front of me, I was at my Shooting Bench, i actually laughed to myself 🤣 then thought WTF Just happened?? I couldn’t BELIEVE that a 209 Shotgun Primer could Go off Through a Charge of BH209 and Not set it off?? Or partially ignite, Start/Stop. BH209 is DEFINITELY NOT For me!! You Guy’s and Gals that use, and Love the Stuff can Have my Part of it 👍

I made a Prediction on another Forum awhile Back. WATCH And See There will be MORE N MORE of these BH209 Hangfire, Start n Stop Fire, Fail to Fire Threads Start Popping up in the Very NEAR future, as More n more Economical/Affordable BH209 Compatible Guns become available, The VAST Majority of new folks getting in the Sport of Muzzleloading, Along with Seasoned Folks seem to want the “Next best thing” A powder that is Less Corrosive, easier to Clean, Don’t have to Swab, Etc. Etc. Etc. Now I agree It’s Cool when these new things work, But it sure sucks when they Don’t!

I chose to Stick with Something that has Worked FOREVER in these Guns, Real Blackpowder, I can count on it Going off, In Fact i would trust my Life on it Going off, If i were to go on a Dangerous Game Hunt in Africa, or the BIG Bears of Alaska with a Muzzleloader, Swiss Real Blackpowder is what would be in my Rifle 👍

Last edited by Idaholewis; 10/09/19.

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I don't know boys. I found it pretty simple to shoot. Buy the breech plug ( even though the factory plug did fine for me) load it up, use a cci 209m primer and bam! 100gr bh209, 250gr powerbelt aerolite in a $180 gun at the time. One great 100 yard 3 shot group.
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Originally Posted by JBhunter45
I had similar partial ignition on a cold range session and I'm done with it also.
Granted my original DISC is not the ideal setup, it had worked fine in warm temps.
December 25 degrees checking zero before season, giving my uncle some loading instruction, 2" fresh snow.
I was able to follow the tracks of the skipping sabot and did find one bullet of the 5 or so misfires.
I have a feeling it was due to the temp and sabot fit of the Hornady's, maybe CCI standard 209 primers also.



Originally Posted by JBhunter45
I could actually hear it fizzling in the gun, loose grains all over the snow in front of the bench, sabot around 30-40 feet out.

Our muzzle loader season is only two weeks long at the end of December, I work weekdays, so I might hunt 4 days at most.
I did the research, not worth the cash to convert to primer only bolt and head spaced breach, and decided to try 777 loose.
Now my hunting area is in a CWD zone, and DNR lets us use any firearm season legal guns.


Well lets see
Original DISC
Standard CCI primer
SST with the easy loading red sabot?

Gee what else could you do to make it fail?...Not much. The orange DISC leak like mad. The red SST sabot is very small.

Correct breach plug is about $30 with 1 vent liner. I have several and never had a problem. If you know how to clean your DISC bolt its simple to swap the bolt housing. Takes 2 minutes. I know, ive done it. Its what i shoot when im smoking but if you like a filthy breach then enjoy that ancient orange DISC. I would rather spend less time cleaning regardless of powder. I would rather not have to buy stupid little plastic primer holders. A couple boxes of those pieces of junk are almost as much as the new plug.

Bare primer only bolt?...Wrong again. You can use the Extreme bolt or bolt housing. Then you can use red DISCs or a bare primer plug. Same bolt assembly or bolt housing works for both if you get the $30 Lehigh conversion. All you need is the Lehigh conversion and the Extreme/Elite bolt housing. Your firing pin assembly will screw right into it.

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As I’ve said many times before, Shoot what works for you, if YOU are Confident in a Powder that is ALL that matters. Confidence in your gear is REALLY important, especially on a Hunt, If you are not Confident in your gear, BURN IT and Switch to Something you DO have Confidence in 👍

Just Remember, BH209 is not the only Gig in Town for inline Rifles, Swiss 2F Real Blackpowder works STELLAR in them as well, as I’ve WELL proven.


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Except it has never failed in warmer temps.
Not that easy anymore. I did the research two years ago, Lehigh no longer makes the breech plugs, and finding a Extreme conversion kit is almost impossible, $150+ if you can.
If I scoured Modern Muzzleloader board I might be able to source the parts, but a lot easier to switch powders.

Last edited by JBhunter45; 10/11/19.
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Lehigh most certainly still sells the conversion kit. They quit for awhile until the Knight contract ran out.

Plug with vent liner $16.50 https://sskfirearms.lehighdefense.com/all-products?product_id=259
Adapter for the Extreme bolt $14.50 https://sskfirearms.lehighdefense.com/all-products?product_id=258

Call Knight and ask for Steven. Its $61.25 for just the Extreme bolt housing. You dont need the entire bolt. Just swap the guts. Takes 2 minutes.




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Try rio primers with blackhorn . Cleanest setup i ever shot by far in my triumph. 100 grns blackhorn,rio g-600 primer with 295 powerbelt in my 21” barrel tc triumph . Shot it 10 times last week. Last group was 1” at 100 yds. Ran a dry patch theu the barrel and it was shiny. Breechplug was black but just wiped it off clean. Breechplug canal was so clean a pipe cleaner showed no black at all .

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Are RIO primers hot enough to ignite BH 209 in cold weather?

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Yesterday I read a review of the new CVA .45 rifle that's similar to the Remington Ultimate. Uses rifle primers in a special holder. Their recommended load is a specially-designed 280gr Powetbelt over 140gr (by volume) of BH. No reason to futz around with anything else, according to them. Velocity is about 2200, IIRC.

Interesting, but at over 10lbs before you put a scope on it, not for me.

BTW, I never said BH can't work in .45s. They just didn't work up data for them because .50s are the overwhelming choice these days. Maybe that will change.

At present I have BH, 777, and regular Goex FF on hand, plus some Old Eynsford FF and FFF. Musket caps, 11s, and 209s. All have their uses for me depending on the rifle and projectile.


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My cousin has a .45 caliber Encore barrel and he called Western Powders and was told that his .50 caliber loads would work. He was using 100 grains by volume.

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Originally Posted by Judman
Gettin ready for elk season, sounds like this is the shnizzle for loose powder? Anyone runnin it? Should I be trying something else? Thanks

As others have noted, as long as you use the right breech plug/primer combination, Blackhorn 209 is an excellent black powder substitute.


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I used CCI 209M magnum primers in Iowa. Worked great in sub zero weather. I'll be using Blackhorn 209 until they invent something better!

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I'm also a Blackhorn fan. It's as accurate as anything else I've tried and much cleaner.

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[quote=LeonHitchcox]Are RIO primers hot enough to ignite BH 209 in cold weather?[/quote
Ive never had a miss fire, hang fire of any kind

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Thanks.

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