Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Best suppressed hunting rifle set up

I send my barrels to Ecco machine in Elizabeth, Co for threading. Nick, the owner can cut, thread, and then mount a threaded collar to the barrel to provide a nice wide shoulder for the can to lock against. According to him the minimum barrel barrel diameters for each thread pattern with this method are .510" for 1/2-28, .573" for 9/16-24 and .635" for 5/8-24.

I don't have any Tikkas on hand, but I measured one of my last copies and I think you'd be able to do your Tikka lite in 5/8x24 at most any length.

On the topic of length, shorter is better for a suppressed rifle, 16" - 20", the velocity you give up is well worth the shorter length with a can installed. If you really need more velocity, I'd go with a bigger cartridge over a longer barrel, cans knock down blast a huge amount and recoil quite a bit, so the main cost is the extra powder.

I have a .30-06 X-Bolt chopped to 18.5" and threaded 5/8x24, and a 6.5 CM Kimber Montana chopped to 20" (probably could have gone shorter) and threaded 1/2x28 as my main hunting rifles:

The X-Bolt while out hunting yesterday (the elk were not cooperative).



Another virtue for suppressed hunting rifles is lightweight, Kimbers are great for this, my copy comes in at 7lb 1.1oz with scope and can.



This is what the muzzles with collars look like



Bonus pic of a Ruger 77/44 I had done the same way in 5/8x24.

Good stuff Scotty👍

Heck, I've been sending my stuff to Thunderbeast in Cheyenne lol. Guess I need to check out the local guy soon.

I've heard short barreled 6.5 rigs can work pretty well. These both go 8 pounds 10 ounces. Barrels cut at 18 and 19, both at .710 at muzzle.

5/8-24 needs 0.623" and that is barely there (IIRC 0.628 was the measurement) on the Tikka T3X Light 6.5 the OP has cut to 21". The smith that threaded it wanted a damned shoulder and insisted it needed to be done 1/2-28" because of that. Once a (3/4" long) shoulderless 5/8-24 adapter was screwed on, there was the same RCH shoulder as it would had been cut 5/8-24 direct. Damned much ado about nothing. Thread them 5/8-24 and throw a locknut behind it. But, Thunderbeasts says minimum 0.725" barrel. Exactly why is that much shoulder "required"? BS, it's not, but then, what would there be to post about...

I run std M700 sporters at 20" threaded 1/2UNF in 243 and7-08. My 308 M700 mk1 ti is 1/2UNF with a collar. I have a BRNO ZG in 30-06 at 21" and 1/2UNF.

No issues with bulging over thousands of rounds.

perfect?

I shoot a 30-06 browning boss a-bolt 20" barrel, 165g sst Hornady superformance factory ammo

I screwed off the BOSS and put on a titianium deadair suppressor

adjusted it like the BOSS and get easy 3/4' groups

2900fps, 0.447 BC

virtually no noticeable kick

what could be wrong with this set up?

I can't tell if you're being serious or sarcastic.

A suppressor needs a decent shoulder to stop against because that's what aligns it to the bore. Relying on a tight thread alone for alignment is not enough, especially if/when fouling builds up in the threads (mostly an issue when swapping between different thread lengths). A locknut is OK for a brake, not good enough for a suppressor IMO.

On a sporter weight 30 cal barrel I personally always choose and recommend 9/16"-24 rather than 1/2"-28 if possible. A larger thread is almost always better when it can be done right.

If a guy is having special adapters or collars made, you can have an adapter made to shoulder on the muzzle instead of a barrel shoulder; this lets you go with a larger thread size. I've done more than a couple barrels this way myself and machined adapters to match.

Can you post examples of your work?
Thx, R

If you're referring to my comment about shouldering an adapter on the muzzle, I don't have any pics handy of that, sorry. I'll try to remember next time I do one.

I looked at having my barrels set up to index the can of the muzzle, TBAC will thread your barrel specifically so that their brake indexes off the muzzle. The downside is that it is fairly specific to a certain type of muzzle device, limiting your use of different cans, and direct thread mounts (which I prefer). For my uses a locked on threaded collar, turned square is a superior solution, I can use any can or muzzle device with that thread pattern. POI is very repeatable out to the 400 yds I practice at with these rifles. The wide shoulders (in my case on the collars) are critical too a good lockup, something factory threading jobs often skimp on. I've hiked many, many miles in rough country with my hunting rifles (even fell off a log onto my rifle on a frozen pond the other day) and I've never had a can come loose. In contrast, my Tikka CTR, incredibly accurate hammer that it was, had an inadequately small shoulder and my DT cans, including my hunting can, would constantly walk loose just while shooting during range trips.

Very nice rigs! Our rifles have probably been passing each other in the mail mine going south, yours going north. TBAC is right down the road from me, the guys often shoot at my range, testing new stuff, they are all really cool. If I standardized on their cans, I'd send my stuff to them as well. I have a few different .30 cal cans though, and more on the way, so I needed a thin barrel solution that would work for all of them.

Scotty,
That is really interesting and helpful information. Thanks for sharing.
R

Different than a brake? You need clearance for your bullet to exit, no more, certainly not less.

But sure sure, shoulders are great. You're right. And I suppose that's what the smith's reasoning was. But, you absolutely don't need 0.750" to make 5/8-24" threads and you certainly don't need a 0.050 shoulder to align anything. Screw it on, if you're aligned, you're aligned. If you're not, your threads suck balz. If you're not sucking balz, a locknut would be just fabulous, if you are aligned ehh?

That looks handy as heck!!

Interesting. Thread 1/2-28", get a quality shouldered adapter, locktight the bugger on, and rockon. Or use a 1/2-28" brake. EZ peasy. Don't need a bunch of custom chit. Back to what the guys said before, no issues, no problems.

No. Pretty much everything you said there is wrong. You clearly don't know much about suppressor mounting or barrel threading, and don't seem interested in learning. Good luck on that, you're going to need it.

So - what makes your suppressor so much different than a brake? Do tell. The bullet flies through there. For example, my Omega 30 has an exit of 0.408" roughly. Sure as hell got clearance for the .264 and .224 bullets to pass, ehh? If your threads are crooked as chit, sure, you're screwed.

Suppressor mounting. LOL Fugging screw it on .

Lefty loosy, righty tighty?

Righty tighty... Wow, it's mounted.... Didn't even need custom adapters that shoulder on the muzzle. LOL

When you righty tighty.... what does the can bottom out on?

End of the threads on the barrel.....

End of the threads in the can....

End of the barrel....

By bottoming out on a shoulder... you’re protecting all three of the above.