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Now I get it........thanks for that. My first can is still in jail so I'm trying to learn all I can before hand.

Shoulder on my adapter. Which is bottomed out on the shoulder of the barrel. Pretty simple chit. Main point being, that 0.750" barrel is not needed. What complete F'ing nonsense.

So, riddle me this, anyone. As indicated previously, the OPs 6.5 CM T3X Lite could achieve a 5/8-24 thread at 21" with just a tiny amount of what could be called shoulder, but, let's say it's just threads on the barrel terminating (on the end toward the receiver, no 0.050" shoulder....) If screwed on snug, righty tighty, (LOL) AND of course - if and only if - alignment is good to avoid any strike - what's the problem? The end of the barrel threads are inside the can's threads, the extra threads inside the can are just there per usual, and the crown is not touched, again per usual. What's the perceived problem?

Well, the fact that most rifle suppressors are 8"-10" long compared to a 1"-2" brake, for starters. Alignment is more critical for a longer suppressor.

This stuff isn't that hard to understand, but it's not so stupid simple that you can ignore the important details.

It's always amazing to me that some guys form such a strong opinion on something they know so little about. If you never learned this stuff, what makes you think you know it? Are you just so awesome that you automatically know things the rest of us have to actually learn?

Good grief man. If it doesn't have a shoulder, what is it tightening against? Do you have any concept of tolerance in threaded applications?

Instead of making up your own ideas, take some time to actually learn this stuff. There's a whole industry involved in suppressors and suppressor mounting, and lots of well established principles and knowledge that are freely available if you're willing to learn.

It would bottom out on the termination of the thread, tighter than chit. Like anything else. If you want to hurl insults PISS OFF.

Rephrase question above, anyone want to answer besides Yonderprick? Recall, alignment is good, not bad. Duhh.

Couldn't one use a jam nut?

No, Yonderprick says that'd be all F'd up. But, if you got alignment, then WTF not ehh? Recall he suggests having adapters custom made to shoulder on the muzzle. Yah, that's the ticket.

But, my question posed today is solely for discussion as the proper solution has been offered many times, thread 1/2-28 and use a good enough adapter. Then no whining is required.

I am also trying to learn all I can about suppressors and suppressor mounting also. Great information being shared here.
Thx, R

I can put up with using a thread adapter if I have to, but I'd rather just have the barrel threaded to the final desired pattern if I can. My X-Bolt was easily threaded 5/8x24, the cost to have a good collar permanently installed as a nice, wide shoulder was negligible, so there was no reason to settle for 1/2x28 thread and then adapt up.

I have discussed 1/2x28 threads on .30 cals with TBAC's engineers, and the concern is not hoop stress or belling of the muzzle during firing, it's that with such a small thickness between the thread root and the groove, there's a concern that if you fell or otherwise smacked the can really hard, the high bending moment could cause a fracture through that small thickness. I'm not sure how much of a concern that should be, it's been a while since I did any fracture mechanics calculations like that, but I can see where they are coming from. Using a tightened adapter changes, but doesn't necessarily improve the forces the thread root closest to the shoulder would see in a situation like that.

I don't mind the 1/2x28 thread on my 6.5, it gives nearly 0.1" root to groove thickness, which is an often recommend practical minimum. 9/16x24 gives a similar thickness on .30 cal, and is what I would personally use on something like a Kimber with a bore over 6.5mm. If someone wants to chamber everything 1/2x28 and adapt up, that's fine, it's not what I do, but they'll probably be fine.



It is quite handy, it's not my most practical rifle, but it sure is fun, and that was the point. I'll be working on more coated, heavy bullet loads after hunting season, but I have a few good loads already with 305gr cast HPs over CFE Pistol, and 300gr XTPs over Longshot. Shooting some of the XTPs into jugs at 100 yds, I was actually pretty impressed with how much damage those slow, fat slugs did, and the fact that there were bullet fragments in the bottom of the jug (must have opened up fairly well).

The sound level is very tolerable with the can in short configuration, and surprisingly quiet in long configuration.

Are you saying in your first paragraph, that something like a threaded disc was installed up against a minimal shoulder present after the 5/8-24 theading? Welded, soldered, or pinned or such? Potentially trimmed on a lathe to be very concentric with the bore? Appreciate it as in your pics before, it just looked like a shouldered adapter.

What is this magic alignment that just happens without a shoulder? There is so much you don't understand about this, your ideas just make everyone dumber for hearing them. You already said your own suppressor threads up to a shoulder, but you're insisting it doesn't need it? Why don't you have that shoulder removed and see how it works? LOL

I only suggested an adapter to shoulder on the muzzle for cases where a barrel is too thin for an external shoulder. There has to be a shoulder (either square or tapered) in the system one way or another. A traditional external shoulder is the easiest way most of the time, but there are exceptions where an internal shoulder makes more sense.

Whackem - a jam nut can be OK for a brake but generally isn't adequate for suppressor alignment. Keep in mind that small amounts of misalignment in a suppressor can cause accuracy problems even without being bad enough to cause baffle strikes. It can be done if the jam nut is fairly long, like 1.5-2x thread diameter, to avoid canting. The collars on Gtscotty's rifles in the pics above work in a similar way; they are long enough to hold square on the threads. Difference with those of course is they are probably loctited to the barrel and then the shoulder trued in the lathe after installation.

Yep, that is the concern with small threads that leave a thin muzzle. I've tested that a bit myself, threading scrap barrels and applying some bending load; the concern of fracturing a 1/2"-28 30 cal at the thread root is valid and doesn't take as much load as some might think. It's one of those things, IMO, that's fine right up until it breaks.

The other concern about accuracy is more for precision rifles, a slightly expanded bore from turning the muzzle too thin is not helpful to accuracy, and that's why TB and some others offer 3/4" threads or even larger for some precision rifle stuff. For hunting rifle accuracy though I haven't seen it make enough difference to matter.

Fact is you act like a prick, here and elsewhere, and that's nothing new.

I just took mine, loosened the adapter up. There is nowheres near enough slop to not be adequately aligned. It'd be aok with a lock washer, even unspec'd Ebay threads on this adapter. Get it? If there was 0.010 shoulder and alignment was ok, it would be ok. No shoulder, big f'ing deal, if it is aligned. You know, it's alinged, all 10" then WTF would the problem be? None. Right Yonderprick? Remove the shoulder, you mean have the barrel turned down to 1/2"? Now why the hell would I do that? Prick.

Example. The cut thread protector (black with flats) represents a lock nut. Theaded adapter (SS with flats) is doing nothing here but reducing thread size. Snugged up, righty tighty, there's zero play and it's damned well aligned with the bore. There's zero problem. On this barrel a 1/2" endplate would forclude an adapter, or forgoe the demo locknut and use the 1/2 to 5/8 adapter of course. But, obviously on a rig barley over what's needed to thread 5/8-24 a simple nut may sufice, if and only if, alignment with the bore proves satisfactory which don't take no rocket surgery to figure out prior to firing ammo. To claim a barrel must be 0.750" in order to use a 5/8-24 threaded muzzle device is ludicrous. To assume alignment with the bore is, or is not, achieved from across cyberspace is likewise absurd.


For the T3X Lite, surely threading 1/2 or 9/16 is F'ing simple. No custom horsechit necessary.

Just to blowhards who have big opinions with very little knowledge; I've got very little patience for that kind of willful ignorance. You know almost nothing about this stuff, but are convinced you know better than an entire industry of suppressor manufacturers and gunsmiths. You must be a pretty amazing dude.

BTW nobody said .750" is minimum for a 5/8-24 thread. You're not even doing your math right on a point you keep bring up over and over, and that's just the most basic thing you've gotten wrong here.

You're a prick. Earlier in the thread it was reported, and can be seen on their website, that Thunder Beast declares just that. Prick. They, certainly expurts, declare 3/4 f'ing inch is needed to mount their 5/8" F'ing muzzle device. So take your ignorance and shove it. You're a blowhard. This is easy chit and does not have to be your way, it just has to work. Adapter shoulder on the muzzle, LOL.. A lockwasher can indeed work just like with a damned brake. Prick. Which earlier you claimed it can't. So, piss off, Prick. Never said it's best or will always. Prick.

TBAC actually states 0.725 min for 5/8x24

Thanks for the correction. Calling for 0.050" shoulder is sure nice. It'd help keep yahoots from shooting their suppressors. Anyone care to speculate on minimum acceptable actual shoulder desirable, unless 0.050 is truly it? I'd guess, in my ignorant fog, that about 0.030" or even a little less would do the trick. Why wouldn't it? Thus a T3X Lite, threaded 9/16-28 would have enough shoulder to satisfy... (Going off memory of the 0.630" (or 0.628") measurement at 21") to align a 9/16-28 (or - 24) to 5/8-24 shouldered adapter. It would satisfy the shoulder fan, the more material fan, compared to 1/2-28" threads, and still not require any custom expenditure or proprietary BS.