Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Remington Triggers........Now I'm A Believer

I have two 700s that I have been shooting for over thirty years. I've never had any issues with either trigger but I keep hearing all these horror stories about the Walker trigger. About a year ago I installed Trigger Tech triggers in both rifles just so I can sleep better at night.

I also watched that CBS story on Remington and they had John Walker himself the guy that designed the 700 saying in his own words that the trigger is defective. I did not notice anybody holding a gun to his head.

Finally for good measure I had Redneck here on the Fire resecure the bolt handles on both rifles. Yes I am paranoid.

I had an out of the box

How is it that Sako,Tikka, Winchester, Ruger and a host of others never had this problem?

Yes, I bought a 660 350 mag from a neighbor. He pulled it out of his gun cabinet to show me worked the bolt, put the safety on, and the trigger released when he put the safety to fire. He contacted Remington and they gave him a shipping label to a repair center. He had Remington fix the trigger before he sold it to me.

Can't remember the last time I actually used a safety on any of my Remingtons.

Keep em clean and you'll have no problems. So simple and like the Leupold lies impossible to get across to haters.

If you can' shoot with a 3 lb trigger, you need training.

Read and learn:

Adjusting a Remington 700 trigger is quite simple. Be careful as too light a trigger pull can be quite dangerous. Do not adjust a 700 trigger so low that it will go off when you do not intend it to. Remember, you do not have as much control with gloves on. After adjusting a trigger, you want to slam the but of the rifle down on the ground several times while c0cked with the safety off (and no round in the chamber) to make sure that the trigger the sear will not release, allowing the pin to fall and set off a round. Most will want a trigger to be three pounds or more for safety.

Now if you've still decided to tackle adjusting your 700 trigger here is how you do it. Check to make sure the chamber is empty before anything else. You'll want to gather some penetrating oil, an Allen wrench set, precision screwdriver, and Elmer's glue. I also recommend a trigger scale to make things as accurate and safe as possible.

First thing, remove your barreled action from the stock. Use a 5/32" Allen/hex wrench. Remove the front screw three-fourths of the way. Then remove the rear screw all the way. Make sure you remember that the long screw goes in the tang area, and the short one goes in front of the receiver.

After the barreled action is out, use a penetrating oil to soak the three trigger screws. If the trigger has never been touched before, there will be a sealant on the screws. Simply scrape it off before applying the oil. Let the oil soak 10 minutes or so. You'll then want to turn the screws in and out three or four times so that you make sure there is no binding.

You will then want to back out all three trigger screws two or three turns, careful not to back them out so far the springs fall out of place. You simply want to take the tension off the internal springs. You will then work the bolt. Slowly start turning the sear engagement screw, located on the back side of the trigger, in until the sear releases and the firing pin drops. Back it out exactly one half a turn.

Next, the over-travel will need adjusted. This screw is located on the top front of the trigger above the pull-weight screw. Do not rec0ck the rifle. You will want to turn it inward until you feel resistance. When properly adjusted, the slop will be taken out of the trigger and it will move back and forth very little. Do not over tighten. Though the travel will be reduced, the pull weight will not be able to be adjusted. If not turned in enough, the pull can be adjusted lighter, but it will be very sloppy and unpredictable.

You are now ready to rec0ck the gun. Use the trigger scale and see how heavy the weight is and if its to your liking. If not you will have to adjust the pull-weight screw, below the over-travel screw. Inward increases the weight and outward lightens it. Trial and error will get it to the point that is to your liking. As soon as its to your liking, you will want to try it approximately 20 times. Work the bolt quickly as if you were going to in the field. This will show you if the sear will accidentally release or not. This could be disastrous. You'll want to make sure the pull-weight is consistent and without slop or excessive over/under-travel. You'll shoot better groups with a 3 lb trigger that is consistent rather than a 1 lb trigger that isn't.

After you are convinced everything is set where it should be, take the Elmer's glue and put a few drops over the screws. I use Elmer's because it will stop them from creeping out of adjustment over time but will be easy to remove if you so wish to change your weight for a different application later on. Finger nail polish and lock-tight compounds are more difficult to remove, but effective. Allow the glue to dry fifteen minutes.

You'll then want to put the thing back together. Slide the barreled action back into the stock. Put in the front (short) screw first and turn in half way. Then put in the tang screw and turn in all the way tightly. Then turn the front screw the rest of the way. If you have an HS stock, you'll want to put them in 65 in-lbs. If you have a wooden stock, many have different ideas on how tight to turn them, but that is not a discussion for here and now. After all is tight, check the trigger pull for safety against ADs. I slam the butt stock of the c0cked rifle down on the floor 10 times or so to make sure it won't go off.

Jeez, you are a little slow on the uptake. Fortunately, no one was hurt.

I have never had a problem with a Remington trigger but I have never adjusted one either. I did put a Timney trigger on one and it has been good.

Post means nothing since you adjusted the trigger.

This is the kind of post that has ruined the campfire. A guy writes to share his good experience and it takes just a few replies for someone to post a smart aleck insult “you are a little slow”. Completely uncalled for and added nothing to the discussion.

Keep em clean and you'll have no problems. So simple and like the Leupold lies impossible to get across to haters.

If you can' shoot with a 3 lb trigger, you need training.

Read and learn:

Adjusting a Remington 700 trigger is quite simple. Be careful as too light a trigger pull can be quite dangerous. Do not adjust a 700 trigger so low that it will go off when you do not intend it to. Remember, you do not have as much control with gloves on. After adjusting a trigger, you want to slam the but of the rifle down on the ground several times while c0cked with the safety off (and no round in the chamber) to make sure that the trigger the sear will not release, allowing the pin to fall and set off a round. Most will want a trigger to be three pounds or more for safety.

Now if you've still decided to tackle adjusting your 700 trigger here is how you do it. Check to make sure the chamber is empty before anything else. You'll want to gather some penetrating oil, an Allen wrench set, precision screwdriver, and Elmer's glue. I also recommend a trigger scale to make things as accurate and safe as possible.

First thing, remove your barreled action from the stock. Use a 5/32" Allen/hex wrench. Remove the front screw three-fourths of the way. Then remove the rear screw all the way. Make sure you remember that the long screw goes in the tang area, and the short one goes in front of the receiver.

After the barreled action is out, use a penetrating oil to soak the three trigger screws. If the trigger has never been touched before, there will be a sealant on the screws. Simply scrape it off before applying the oil. Let the oil soak 10 minutes or so. You'll then want to turn the screws in and out three or four times so that you make sure there is no binding.

You will then want to back out all three trigger screws two or three turns, careful not to back them out so far the springs fall out of place. You simply want to take the tension off the internal springs. You will then work the bolt. Slowly start turning the sear engagement screw, located on the back side of the trigger, in until the sear releases and the firing pin drops. Back it out exactly one half a turn.

Next, the over-travel will need adjusted. This screw is located on the top front of the trigger above the pull-weight screw. Do not rec0ck the rifle. You will want to turn it inward until you feel resistance. When properly adjusted, the slop will be taken out of the trigger and it will move back and forth very little. Do not over tighten. Though the travel will be reduced, the pull weight will not be able to be adjusted. If not turned in enough, the pull can be adjusted lighter, but it will be very sloppy and unpredictable.

You are now ready to rec0ck the gun. Use the trigger scale and see how heavy the weight is and if its to your liking. If not you will have to adjust the pull-weight screw, below the over-travel screw. Inward increases the weight and outward lightens it. Trial and error will get it to the point that is to your liking. As soon as its to your liking, you will want to try it approximately 20 times. Work the bolt quickly as if you were going to in the field. This will show you if the sear will accidentally release or not. This could be disastrous. You'll want to make sure the pull-weight is consistent and without slop or excessive over/under-travel. You'll shoot better groups with a 3 lb trigger that is consistent rather than a 1 lb trigger that isn't.

After you are convinced everything is set where it should be, take the Elmer's glue and put a few drops over the screws. I use Elmer's because it will stop them from creeping out of adjustment over time but will be easy to remove if you so wish to change your weight for a different application later on. Finger nail polish and lock-tight compounds are more difficult to remove, but effective. Allow the glue to dry fifteen minutes.

You'll then want to put the thing back together. Slide the barreled action back into the stock. Put in the front (short) screw first and turn in half way. Then put in the tang screw and turn in all the way tightly. Then turn the front screw the rest of the way. If you have an HS stock, you'll want to put them in 65 in-lbs. If you have a wooden stock, many have different ideas on how tight to turn them, but that is not a discussion for here and now. After all is tight, check the trigger pull for safety against ADs. I slam the butt stock of the c0cked rifle down on the floor 10 times or so to make sure it won't go off.