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TRexF16 Offline OP
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BTW, Bugger, I should address the second half of your question about CRF actions. First off, I'll tell you my Springfield feeds slicker than owl snot out of the magazine.
But I learned a new fact about the '03 Springfield during this project. Unlike the Mauser and the CRF M70, the Springfield is designed to be able to single load and close the bolt over a cartridge being pushed ahead of the bolt. This is because in the early days when the '03 was fielded, the idea was soldiers would single feed each round while keeping the magazine full. This is what the magazine cut-off switch is all about. When the bad guys charged, then the switch would be pushed up to the vertical "ON" position and the soldier could run his magazine out and the keep loading it via stripper clips.

Cheers,
Rex

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I’ve never had a problem single loading any Model 70 classic, and I’ve owned a few…

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Originally Posted by bigswede358
What does the barrel diameter need to be to make a 9.3x62?
Originally Posted by dennisinaz
35 Whelen is as big as i can go.
.575" muzzle

Hey bigswede358, The general number that I've seen recommended for a rebore is an extra .125 on either side of the bore for the larger calibers. So in dennisinaz's example above:

.575 - .35 = .225 (muzzle diameter - caliber = remainder on both sides of the bore)
.225 / 2 = .1125" remaining on each side of the bore.
He's a little bit below the "recommended" .125 thickness on either side but it's up to the person doing the rebore to decide the threshold they're willing to tolerate.

Another way to look at dennisinaz's situation is to calculate:

.575 muzzle - .250 recommended thickness (.125 * 2) = .325 maximum ideal caliber rebore for this barrel based on general recommendations. So a .338 or a .35 might depend on whether the person doing the rebore thinks that's advisable.

In your case:

9.3 / 25. 4 = .366 (mm / mm per inch = caliber)
.366 + (.125 * 2) = .616" ideal muzzle diameter (caliber + 2x the recommended barrel thickness).

So you need 15.6 mm or a little less than 5/8" (.625") to have the recommended .616" muzzle diameter.

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Originally Posted by TRexF16
Originally Posted by Bugger
Trex

I’d be interested in hearing how you 9.3x62 Springfield re-bore comes out. I have a “sporterized” 03-A3 that has an over size chamber that I’m thinking might be better.
In particular I’d be interested in how the modification works in a controlled feed action.
Bugger, at the risk of looking like "that guy" that only posts his best groups on 24HCF, I'll share the story of my JES 9.3x62 rebored Springfield, which was a 1932 receiver (per online records) with a 1934 dated barrel. Plenty of beef in that barrel for the rebore. I got my barreled action back from JES and took it to the range. I had mounted a Leupold 4x Compact (which JB has taught me is actually about a 3.3X) in vintage Buehler mounts, and bedded the action and an inch or so of the barrel shank. I did a rough boresight and shot my very first group out of this rifle with Lapua 285 Mega factory ammo:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
Nice! So I went right to my ladder I had loaded up to sneak up on Mule Deer's "250 AB, 60.5 Varget" load. These were the "dirt-cheap" SPS 250 AB seconds that they had a couple years ago. I had loaded three each of 58, 59, and 60 Varget, and four of 60.5. Keep in mind that between each of these groups, I was cranking on the friction dials of the old Leopold compact to get 'er dialed in.
58 Gr.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
59 gr and 60 gr
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
So then I tried "the load"
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
But note that I am almost 100 FPS below John's velocities, and I reckon my lot of Varget is a little slower in this chambering than John's. So I ended up bumping it up to 62.5 before I got to John's velocity numbers. In the interim, I had done a bit of work with RL-15.5 and had loaded up a batch of 250 AB to the low 2600s for my 2022 elk hunt. They worked:
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
But after that, SPS loaded up a ton of the 250 E-Tips on their site and I grabbed a bunch, for those situations when a 250 AB "just might not be enough, LOL" I ran them up to the low 2600s with Varget, and they were easily giving me "minute of moose"
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
but at the end of the test string, I also shot three of my leftover 250 AB/RL-15.5 loads from last year's elk hunt (left target in the pic). The right target is the first of the three 250 E-Tip groups as I was dialing in the 4X compact to the new load.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
So how did my JES rebore come out?
Good.

Cheers,
Rex

To answer the question then, no modifications were needed to the action.


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TRexF16 Offline OP
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Sorry Bugger...correct...no action mods. Sorry for getting a little carried away with answering how my rebore "came out."

In what way is your chamber oversized? Headspace? Or a bit big in diameter?

Cheers,
Rex

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Odonata,

Thanks. I have a message into JES but haven’t received a call back yet.
I’m either going to use an Interarms or Remington 700 for the rebore. I want to use the Interarms Mauser, but the barrel is pencil thin. The barrel is 24”, so I have some wiggle room. I want to finish out at 22” if possible.

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My only experience with JES has been a great one. Bought an older Marlin 336 30-30 that had a rusted bore and sent it to be bored out to 38-55. I've only used cast bullets in it, but it's been a good one and have taken several whitetails with it.

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Just got off the phone with JES. He needs a muzzle diameter of .560 for a 9.3x62.

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Originally Posted by TRexF16
Sorry Bugger...correct...no action mods. Sorry for getting a little carried away with answering how my rebore "came out."

In what way is your chamber oversized? Headspace? Or a bit big in diameter?

Cheers,
Rex

The reamer went in a little deep is all. I have a set of brass that’s for that rifle only. Options, leave it as is or I could just have the barrel set back. But it’s probably a $500 rifle and doing that would not increase its value to anyone but me. I’m thinking 9.3x62 chamber/bore would increase the value a bit and give me something new to play with.

Bugger


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Sent a 700 with a pitted barrel in 7-08 to him to have it reamed to 358 and the barrel chopped to 20" and recrowned. 3 groove barrel shoots great. My only issue is its a little rough and like to be shot fouled. Im used to having to clean barrels often. It shoots many different powders into moa. Overall very happy with it. My best group has been a couple of .3's with H4895 and 200 gr Hornady sp.

Last edited by DoeDumper; 03/11/24.
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Originally Posted by bigswede358
Just got off the phone with JES. He needs a muzzle diameter of .560 for a 9.3x62.

That's 0.056 smaller than my more robust estimate. I guess what is acceptable must have a bit to do with the power of the cartridge as well. My advice is to go with what Jesse says and not what some random guy on the internet (that would be me grin) thought might be the right answer.

Last edited by odonata; 03/11/24.
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Originally Posted by odonata
Originally Posted by bigswede358
Just got off the phone with JES. He needs a muzzle diameter of .560 for a 9.3x62.

That's 0.056 smaller than my more robust estimate. I guess what is acceptable must have a bit to do with the power of the cartridge as well. My advice is to go with what Jesse says and not what some random guy on the internet (that would be me grin) thought might be the right answer.
Appreciate the info, anyways.

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Cliff LaBounty (I have three of his rebores) required .10" a side at the muzzle. My factory Ruger M77 RS in 35 Whelen measures .560" at the muzzle.


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Originally Posted by DoeDumper
Sent a 700 with a pitted barrel in 7-08 to him to have it reamed to 358 and the barrel chopped to 20" and recrowned. 3 groove barrel shoots great. My only issue is its a little rough and like to be shot fouled. Im used to having to clean barrels often. It shoots many different powders into moa. Overall very happy with it. My best group has been a couple of .3's with H4895 and 200 gr Hornady sp.
Yeah, my .358 Win JES 3 groove bore is a bit rough thru the Hawkeye, shows some tool marks. When you recut an older barrel, you take a chance on what the steel is like, not that uncommon to have some flaws and inclusions.

It did foul a good bit at first, but after a DBC treatment and a number of rounds down the spout, it seemed to foul less and less, sorta leveled out.

And, it shoots pretty good as per the target I posted. Of course, a 3 shot group, but it'll shoot almost that good most of the time, just hard to duplicate those trophy 3 shot bragging targets.

But, if you look at Salvage factory barrels thru the Hawkeye, they can be pretty rough, but they tend to shoot a lot better than they look. The acid test is at the range and they pass.

A little fouling doesn't usually hurt accuracy. I don't do an OCD cleaning down to raw steel every time I shoot. Good way to wear out a bore. With DBC, you don't want to do that anyway, just use solvents and a patch, no harsh brushing.

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[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

Ruger rebored from a 280 to 9.3. First 6 rounds through the gun.

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

P64 300 Wby to a 375 Imp

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

M70 SS Classic 30-06 to 338-06

[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

M700 SS Classic 338 Win to 35 Newton

Overall I’ve had a few and I tend to put 50 rounds through them cleaning to steel about every 10 and have had pretty good luck with them shooting well.

DF’s description of them is about spot on.


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Just out of curiosity, I put a caliper on the factory barrel of my Ruger No. 1S in 9.3x74r and it was a hair over 17mm so about .670 which gives it .150 on each side. That doesn't mean anything. I just thought it might be an interesting number for comparison for the guys who are thinking of reboring to a 9.3.

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My .358 Win FWT M-70 is .560” and it was evidently enough for JES to take it to .35 cal.

I measure .107” barrel thickness. Taking .560” and subtracting .35 cal leaves .210”, divided by two gives .105”.

So maybe I lost .002” somewhere.

Still pretty close.

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I have several rebores and I have spent countless hours on the phone mentoring under Wayne York, Jesse O, Al Siegrist, Gene Pratka, Mike Bellm, Danny Pederson, Randy Selby, and Norm Johnson. I'm still no expert. .100" wall thickness at the muzzle is the general rule of thumb as there's alot less pressure there than anywhere else in the barrel. I've also learned from those men and first hand that every barrel I get rebored will get at least .700" cut off the end and recrowned. My best shooting rebores have 1" less barrel length and are truly the most accurate rifles I own.

Last edited by Dinny; 03/11/24.

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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by DoeDumper
Sent a 700 with a pitted barrel in 7-08 to him to have it reamed to 358 and the barrel chopped to 20" and recrowned. 3 groove barrel shoots great. My only issue is its a little rough and like to be shot fouled. Im used to having to clean barrels often. It shoots many different powders into moa. Overall very happy with it. My best group has been a couple of .3's with H4895 and 200 gr Hornady sp.
Yeah, my .358 Win JES 3 groove bore is a bit rough thru the Hawkeye, shows some tool marks. When you recut an older barrel, you take a chance on what the steel is like, not that uncommon to have some flaws and inclusions.

It did foul a good bit at first, but after a DBC treatment and a number of rounds down the spout, it seemed to foul less and less, sorta leveled out.

And, it shoots pretty good as per the target I posted. Of course, a 3 shot group, but it'll shoot almost that good most of the time, just hard to duplicate those trophy 3 shot bragging targets.

But, if you look at Salvage factory barrels thru the Hawkeye, they can be pretty rough, but they tend to shoot a lot better than they look. The acid test is at the range and they pass.

A little fouling doesn't usually hurt accuracy. I don't do an OCD cleaning down to raw steel every time I shoot. Good way to wear out a bore. With DBC, you don't want to do that anyway, just use solvents and a patch, no harsh brushing.

DF


Thats definitely something I need to look into.

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As usual I'm a little late getting to a thread but I'll have to echo everyone's sentiments towards Jes's work. I've had two rifles done by him and the first was a great shooter. It was a Marlin 336 30/30 rebored to 38/55. It shot great with Barnes Originals and cast as well. The second rifle is a Glenfield model 30 with the half mag that also started life as a 30/30 but is now a 356 Winchester. Regrettably I've never got around to shooting it yet. I have some test loads made up just have yet to get it to the range. I went with the 3 groove rifling on both.

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