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Originally Posted by wabigoon
Noon, you'd think you were a new guy the way they pile on. Good luck drilling a few holes.

Agreed. As I stated before, who knew that drill bits could excite such a heated debate.

I was unaware just how critical drill bits were for the average slob. I'm thankful I've been edumicated. Once I have ordered and received my new Made in America HSS bit set, I will be able to drill holes with full confidence and aplomb; whereas, before I was merely a pretender and a poser.

Last edited by High_Noon; 04/04/20.

l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
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Originally Posted by High_Noon
6) Drill Hog's LLC was created on 4/19/17 by a Chinese company.


I had given up on this old thread and could not modify my old post to change notification.

But High Noon's post turned the whole thing around.

This story is now real to me.


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About as real as it gets.


l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by 45_100
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?

Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.

So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?

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One might think, one might, think we were talking chain saws, or--------------------, toilet paper. laugh


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Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by 45_100
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?

Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.

So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?

Improvise and over come!

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Originally Posted by Heym06
Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by 45_100
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?

Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.

So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?

Improvise and over come!

In such situations a strong dosing of swear words will suffice for lubricant....

Jobber length or Mechanic? That's really the important question.


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Lots of different applications, lots of different solutions. Run the proper rpm and try to maintain even pressure. Frames aren't that thick. Columns, steel plate, porta-mag drills work. Drills or roto-broaches. Millwrights usually weren't too concerned with using oil/coolant when drilling. I'd sharpen drill bits for them, they weren't allowed access to my drill cabinet. Some people will have a small container of cutting oil to dip the bit, others use an acid brush to paint some lube on the bit. We also had the plastic squirt bottles filled with the brown cutting oil while other people would use the water soluble synthetic coolant that we ran in our machine shop machines. If we ran an air blast it was generally a mister with either coolant or a synthetic oil like Cool-Tool. But that was generally reserved for machine shop equipment that didn't have flood coolant.

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Originally Posted by High_Noon
Oh Mighty Keyboard Warriors! I am but a lowly knave in this realm, and though my drill bit knowledge be small, I prostrate myself before your vast knowledge and world-renowned drill bit expertise:

Again, y'all may indeed be correct, but you still have not posted any evidence.

While I'm not disputing anything any of you have stated, until I see definitive proof to the contrary, y'all are just bloviating.

I was asked to post evidence that Drill Hog is made in USA. Not sure why I would need to do this. The onus is on you since y'all are the ones claiming the contrary. This be the only 'evidence' I have:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

This entire 'argument' is absolutely ridiculous. We're talking about a $31.00 purchase. Were y'all aware of this fact?


The email surely doesn’t look like it was written by a Chinamen holed up in a City of Industry, CA basement. In fact, Mike writes better than most of our members from Tennessee.


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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LOL


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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
LOL



Double that (LLOOLL?)

I haven't read through the whole thread,

8 pages on drill bits seems a bit revolutionary.

A hole new twist on boring.

Geno


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In it is contentment
In it is death and all you seek
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My mother was from Tennessee.
She seemed very educated for just a high school diploma. Her father, a farmer, had a first grade education.


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Originally Posted by Clarkm
My mother was from Tennessee.
She seemed very educated for just a high school diploma. Her father, a farmer, had a first grade education.


Is she now selling drill bits in Montana?


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Clarkm
My mother was from Tennessee.
She seemed very educated for just a high school diploma. Her father, a farmer, had a first grade education.


Is she now selling drill bits in Montana?


She is buried next to Seattle's founding fathers. My aunt married into some great grave sites.

The graves my mother showed me next to the farm in Bristol VA were just mounds of dirt, and she kept saying, "Don't step on them"


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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Clarkm
My mother was from Tennessee.
She seemed very educated for just a high school diploma. Her father, a farmer, had a first grade education.


Is she now selling drill bits in Montana?


Is that your drill, just skip, chatter and run out?


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This turned into a " my drill is longer than you drill" pages ago. And they still call them bits. Ha Ha Ha

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It turned into, hey I work at a lawn mower repair shop with Karl Childers, so please refer to me as a Tool and Die Maker.

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Originally Posted by Heym06
This turned into a " my drill is longer than you drill" pages ago. And they still call them bits. Ha Ha Ha

Perhaps, but my girth is rather impressive .

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by High_Noon; 04/05/20.

l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
- Del Gue
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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Lots of different applications, lots of different solutions. Run the proper rpm and try to maintain even pressure. Frames aren't that thick. Columns, steel plate, porta-mag drills work. Drills or roto-broaches. Millwrights usually weren't too concerned with using oil/coolant when drilling. I'd sharpen drill bits for them, they weren't allowed access to my drill cabinet. Some people will have a small container of cutting oil to dip the bit, others use an acid brush to paint some lube on the bit. We also had the plastic squirt bottles filled with the brown cutting oil while other people would use the water soluble synthetic coolant that we ran in our machine shop machines. If we ran an air blast it was generally a mister with either coolant or a synthetic oil like Cool-Tool. But that was generally reserved for machine shop equipment that didn't have flood coolant.

Thanks for weighing in.

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