My Harbor Freight titanium coated drill bits aren't cutting it. In fact, they fail miserably whenever I try to drill through any type of steel. I need a set of drill bits that will drill through SS and other tough metals. I have been looking at the Drill Hog sets that have the split point, in molybdenum and cobalt.
What are the main differences between the molybdenum and cobalt drill bits and which would you get?
But whatever you get, stainless steel is the enemy of drill bits.
Run it slow and keep everything saturated with dark thread cutting oil. Most types of stainless will work harden in a heartbeat. Once that happens you're going to have trouble getting through it.
Good quality high speed steel or Tungsten Carbide are the only drills worth buying for serious drilling of anything tougher than mild steel. Try shopping with Victor Machinery Company. www.victornet.com I've been buying drills, milling cutters, and other tooling from them for several years. Their prices are reasonable, and they have several different choices of drill bits available, including some very high quality USA-made stuff.
The trick to drilling tough metal is to use the right speed, feed rate, and lubricant. Once a drill starts to "skate" without producing chips, it dulls quickly. Jerry
Hotrod: Are you recommending high speed bits that are cobalt? What brand set do you recommend - the Drill Hog sets have a lifetime warranty, for whatever that's worth.
Slow down drilling. More pressure is better. Use a water soluble oil. Cutting oil doesn’t cool like the water does. Heat is your enemy. Cobalt drills are maybe 3 points harder on RC than regular HSS. Worth it. The titanium nitrate coating only helps if you have a good steel under it. You can coat carbon steel. 135 with a split point. 135 deg is less tool interface. Split point takes less tool pressure. Run a fine stone across the the cutting edge. Crates works best. Sandpaper is fine. So it’s smooth when you run your finger along it. That very sharp edge breaks down quicker. And then you are dull. The stoned edge is much tougher. I’ll drill thru 4’ of parts of 410 or 316 SS without having to sharpen the drill. 2” drill. Regular HSS not cobalt.
I’m too lazy not to do it right. Some guys will go and hand sharpen 5-7 times for the same job.
Any other questions. Just ask. And slowdown and keep the pressure up.
You're just paying extra for the name when you buy Drill Hog- - - - -sort of like buying a gussied-up Suburban and calling it an Escalade. Stick with US-made Cobalt alloy drills and forget paying the premium for the name brand stuff. Most jobber-type drills come with a 110 degree angle to the cutting flutes. If you sharpen your own bits, flatten the angle a little and use a drill press with lots of speed reduction and plenty of down pressure. With a slow enough speed and lots of downforce, I can drill a hole in a spring leaf. For the really tough stuff, use a solid carbide bit, but remember that stuff shatters like glass with the slightest bit of side load. Jerry
My Harbor Freight titanium coated drill bits aren't cutting it. In fact, they fail miserably whenever I try to drill through any type of steel. I need a set of drill bits that will drill through SS and other tough metals. I have been looking at the Drill Hog sets that have the split point, in molybdenum and cobalt.
What are the main differences between the molybdenum and cobalt drill bits and which would you get?
Stovepipe AKA Marginless is what you want for Stainless.
Hotrod: I found 21 piece Drill Hog sets in both cobalt and molybdenum for $47.00 $37.00 respectively. I haven't been able to find US-made Cobalt sets for any less than ~ $87.00. The Drill Hog sets seems a much better value - am I overlooking something?
Victor part number DSCO 29- - - - -29 piece Cobalt, 1/16"-1/2" for $65.00. Maybe the Drill Hog sets are on sale? I buy drills individually, not in sets, and I keep several of the sizes I use a lot on hand. That way, when one gets dull, I can swap to a sharp one and keep on working, then resharpen a bunch of them at one time. I've usually got a dozen or so of the common sizes ready to go.
Titanium nitride coating is just a way to get a couple of good holes drilled with a piece of crap soft Chinese drill bit. Once the coating wears away, most of the drill bits sold by Harbor Freight have a hard time cutting soft butter. Resharpening doesn't help if the metal underneath the plating is too soft to hold an edge. I mix up a spritz bottle of water and soluble cutting oil and mist the solution onto the drill bit to keep it cool and also lubricate the cutting flutes. Jerry
Someone once told me just because your drill can turn at 15,000 rpm doesn't mean it should.
Quote
Cutting oil doesn’t cool like the water does. Heat is your enemy.
I recall this from high school shop class commercial drilling operations often use water jets for cooling.
Quote
The titanium nitrate coating only helps if you have a good steel under it. You can coat carbon steel
Pardon my French but your titanium coated Drill bits may be titanium coated pieces of....
Electroplated pig iron doesn't have improved strength when the coating is microns thick.
Good bits, right speed for material (there are charts on most good presses), cooling if needed or breaks mid hole, or between holes?
Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Originally Posted by 257_X_50
Slow down drilling
Someone once told me just because your drill can turn at 15,000 rpm doesn't mean it should.
Quote
Cutting oil doesn’t cool like the water does. Heat is your enemy.
I recall this from high school shop class commercial drilling operations often use water jets for cooling.
Quote
The titanium nitrate coating only helps if you have a good steel under it. You can coat carbon steel
Pardon my French but your titanium coated Drill bits may be titanium coated pieces of....
Electroplated pig iron doesn't have improved strength when the coating is microns thick.
Good bits, right speed for material (there are charts on most good presses), cooling if needed or breaks mid hole, or between holes?
It isn't pure water. It's either has water soluble oil added to it or water with a synthetic lube added. Great for cooling but depending on the material being drilled it might not have the proper lubricity. As B said, resulfurized oil (RIGID pipe threading oil) works well, have also used tap magic. The lubricity of either reduces heat build up.
I always forget, is stainless soft or brittle? I just recall problems with previous owner aftermarket hardware kits...fully believe hex key ones are better than Phillips or slotted (more surface area)
Never realized Stainless work hardened. It explains a few things though..
There are all sorts of alloys called "stainless" with different machining characteristics. Some are "hard", while others are "tough". There is a difference when drilling or machining is concerned, and different lubricants and procedures need to be used. Some chrome-moly steels are actually harder to machine than stainless. I've even worked on Hypereutectic alloy aluminum racing engine pistons that would dull a high speed steel lathe cutter bit. Had to use a carbide-tipped bit! Jerry
Some stainless will work harden to the point you better have carbide to drill the hole afterwards. Like glass.
I like soluble oil better than cutting oil not only for cooling......but on a drill press or a lathe you can keep it on the cutting edge. It is so much thinner it runs down easier.
Sometimes I’ll evaporate 5 gallons of water out of the soluble oil in a shift. The oil doesn’t evaporate. If you keep adding a mixed coolant it get thicker and thicker. Big holes and a 60 hp lathe. Steam all over the place.
For a regular cutting fluid......Boelube......yup Boeing. Developed it. A 747 has something like 4,000,000 rivets. They know about drilling. Using it on a Gemcor riveting machine drilling Titanium we put some in the lid of the bottle and dipped the drill in it every third piece. Maybe 1/4” thick. After that it would heat up. Boelube Coates like nothing I’ve ever used. And I’ve done a lot of exotics.
You can buy it most places. Great stuff. I’ve drilled from .003 to 3” holes. Screwed up a lot years back, less now. I’m lazy. Don’t wanna fix my mistakes anymore. If you learn from your mistakes........I’m a frickin genius.
Stainless machinability is all over the place. Some cuts like butter. 416 is a joy.
Some take a good bit of pressure to keep the chip.
Thanks HRL and 257x I was forgetting about grade(?) Formulation numbers
Cr-steell vs.stainless makes sense ... wait, crap, I thought stainless had chromium in it... I swear, I hate it when my brain leaks data. I'm gonna have to look it up now...
I ran into a piece of Inconel the other day. Had to break through it with carbide. Ordered a new piece to replace the bad one. No pecking around on that stuff....
I ran into a piece of Inconel the other day. Had to break through it with carbide. Ordered a new piece to replace the bad one. No pecking around on that stuff....
Try 16” diameter.......cast.......interrupted cut......lol......getting thru the scale eats so many inserts.
Or cutting out a Stelite bearing.
Or Super Duplex Stainless.
Repair parts are always a challenge.
But watching the CNC boys tapping 60 RC material......wow.
I've been machining a forged steel 1956 Chevy 6 cylinder crankshaft recently, reducing the radius of the counterweights about 1/2" so it can turn inside a different engine block. That sucker is hard as woodpecker lips! The chips come off the cutting tool BLACK, and hot enough to cauterize the cut if one gets imbedded in my forearm. Since it's an interrupted cut, the only way to do it and get a smooth finish is at about 450 RPM and take very light cuts. Getting a 100-lb. chunk of metal 3 feet long turning that fast is an adventure- - - - -I'm glad inline six crankshafts don't need bobweights to keep them from vibrating! Jerry
I've been machining a forged steel 1956 Chevy 6 cylinder crankshaft recently, reducing the radius of the counterweights about 1/2" so it can turn inside a different engine block. That sucker is hard as woodpecker lips! The chips come off the cutting tool BLACK, and hot enough to cauterize the cut if one gets imbedded in my forearm. Since it's an interrupted cut, the only way to do it and get a smooth finish is at about 450 RPM and take very light cuts. Getting a 100-lb. chunk of metal 3 feet long turning that fast is an adventure- - - - -I'm glad inline six crankshafts don't need bobweights to keep them from vibrating! Jerry
Try a zero radius tool and slow it down. The zero radius keeps the tool from pushing away.
Other than a little deburring, this one's done. I'll try a steady rest on the next one I do. I'm stuffing 40-something extra cubic inches into a stock-appearing 216 cubic inch engine that can't be identified as being different from an original from the outside. It's a "sleeper" hotrod engine for antique Chevy truck restorers. Jerry
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
But whatever you get, stainless steel is the enemy of drill bits.
Run it slow and keep everything saturated with dark thread cutting oil. Most types of stainless will work harden in a heartbeat. Once that happens you're going to have trouble getting through it.
Good information here. Colbalt 8% min up to 12%. Good drills arent cheap! Industrial supply houses usually carry , or can get you good HSS jobber bits. Drilling isnt milling, cutting oil for drilling, coolent for milling is what i was taught. Im not a machinest! Just a lowly millwright! Carbide drill will also cut stainless well, but get you wallet out if going to buy carbide drill indexs!
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.
Another thing, when we machined forged cranks we ran them separately from cast iron. A different grade of carbide inserts were used in the crankshaft lathes, setup men had to switch tooling for the changeover.
reading all this explains why i have a pile of useless bits and pieces of metal with shiny dimples. maybe i'll use some of my 'rona money to get a good set. designing my new shop and plan on getting a decent press for the first time in my life.
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.
Sharpening a drill is a muscle memory skill that is deeply embedded in my soul.
Over the course of the past 34 years I've probably ground away several feet worth of twist drills.
Stuff under .5 and I don't even get a gauge out of my box
Big stuff I use a point gauge if it isn't a clearance hole
My favorite tool to sharpen is a 6" belt sander
My favorite tool to split a point and or thin the web is by hand with a hard sharp 90º wheel on a surface grinder with the gaurd rotated up out of my way
I virtually never use lubricant when milling aluminum. Two flute endmills stay cooler and not as prone to load up as multi flute endmills,...so I only use 2 flute endmills on aluminum.
Also, I usually save .002" for a clean up cut then climb mill it off. In fact, that's a habit of mine with pretty much any material I mill. Climb milling the final .002" or so causes the endmill to throw the chip behind it instead of pushing them off in front of the flute,....turn the spindle speed up and creep across it slow,...leaves a very fine finish.
Some of the best drilling lube I've used is unsalted lard, with just enough 30 weight motor oil mixed in to make it easy to apply with a small fiber-bristle brush like sheet metal workers use for tinner's flux. When the bit warms up a little, it smells like bacon cooking! Jerry
I virtually never use lubricant when milling aluminum. Two flute endmills stay cooler and not as prone to load up as multi flute endmills,...so I only use 2 flute endmills on aluminum.
Also, I usually save .002" for a clean up cut then climb mill it off. In fact, that's a habit of mine with pretty much any material I mill. Climb milling the final .002" or so causes the endmill to throw the chip behind it instead of pushing them off in front of the flute,....turn the spindle speed up and creep across it slow,...leaves a very fine finish.
That will work on a Bridgeport...
Running a CNC mill I'm pushing 150~200 surface feet with a good cobalt four flute endmill at .02"~.024" per rev feed rate. That would be running a 1/2" endmill 1200rpm @ 29" of feed, 75% depth of cut, 75% side engagement. All climb milling, .005" finish stock on the side and .01" on the floor. I've got to get those chips out of the way using coolant blast. Recutting chips kills a cutting edge.
Jet A works good for cutting aluminium. Heavy high-sulfur cutting oil mixed 55-50 with trichloroethylene works really good on mild gummy steel. I really like Boelube when drilling with small diameter cobalt drills ( I mostly use #40, 30 and 21)
Sharpening a drill is a muscle memory skill that is deeply embedded in my soul.
Over the course of the past 34 years I've probably ground away several feet worth of twist drills.
Stuff under .5 and I don't even get a gauge out of my box
Big stuff I use a point gauge if it isn't a clearance hole
My favorite tool to sharpen is a 6" belt sander
My favorite tool to split a point and or thin the web is by hand with a hard sharp 90º wheel on a surface grinder with the gaurd rotated up out of my way
In the field I've had good success with a cutoff wheel on a 4" grinder. I'll clamp the grinder and go to town. The cool part of a thin disc is the ability to split the point cleanly.
I virtually never use lubricant when milling aluminum. Two flute endmills stay cooler and not as prone to load up as multi flute endmills,...so I only use 2 flute endmills on aluminum.
Also, I usually save .002" for a clean up cut then climb mill it off. In fact, that's a habit of mine with pretty much any material I mill. Climb milling the final .002" or so causes the endmill to throw the chip behind it instead of pushing them off in front of the flute,....turn the spindle speed up and creep across it slow,...leaves a very fine finish.
That will work on a Bridgeport...
Running a CNC mill I'm pushing 150~200 surface feet with a good cobalt four flute endmill at .02"~.024" per rev feed rate. That would be running a 1/2" endmill 1200rpm @ 29" of feed, 75% depth of cut, 75% side engagement. All climb milling, .005" finish stock on the side and .01" on the floor. I've got to get those chips out of the way using coolant blast. Recutting chips kills a cutting edge.
Yeah,...the CNC milling centers I've ran are flooded with coolant continuously.
All the answers are here, Slow, steady pressure, lubricate, and use the right drill bit which is a Marginless bit.
If you are stuck on using standard Margin bits well wrong tool for the job.
For home or most industries a margin less drill isn’t needed. Drags the hole, creates more heat in a home drill press
Don’t have the rigidity and straightness of a CNC.
Larger drills all have margins. Drag and lock a lot easier with out the margin.
That is complete BS. We hand drill C/T holes all the time!
Not total BS. Why do all large twist drills have margins?
They don't! Why does every aircraft manufacturer and their engineers call out for Marginless drills on stainless C/T holes? I guess you know more then they all do!
Please educate me on Margin/Marginless drills (bits) - I'm not sure what this term refer to - is it the little barbs that are sometimes found on the edges of the cutting face? & what are they useful for? Thanks.
Marginless bits AKA Stovepipe, Gun barrel bits are drill bits with out Margins, Margins are the fluted part of the drill bit and are sharpened. Marginless are not sharpened. They also have a very shallow cutting angle. They cut stainless like a normal bit cuts T6. They also do not grab so they are also used in drilling holes on or near existing holes when doing repairs. They ain't cheap!
Hey, feeling your pain. I phucqked through a 29pc set of those Ti Warrior (HF) bits the other day to simply drill five 1/2" holes in some 1/4" iron. Good gawd it was not fun! Got my $13 worth of misery! Que Kingston....
Tight quarters would be one. They don't preform well on 90 and 45 degree terry drills. They require a pilot. In and around existing holes. On a drill press, or in a machine they work best.
For the money, I couldn't beat the Moly Drill Hog index I just purchased, so I obviously think Drill Hogs are also a good choice, but I've yet to use them.
Who would have thought that drill bits would excite such a fervor.
They piss me off when they don't work!
Researching has led me to conclude that IF I were to spend some money on this it'd be Viking/Norseman....
I like em.
“Word on the street” is the drill hog are bulk unbranded Norseman, thst drill hog puts in sets. Yea or nea? I dunno. Garage journal has their conspiracy theorist just like here on the fire.
Harry J Epstein online store has deals on Norseman sets.
Drill bits work best for me in good old high speed steel.. Secret to bits is keep them cutting...use only cutting oil ..never motor oil or wd40... No need for Cobalt or any.fancy crap.. Split points are great but can chop as the cutter is ledd supported. But American made bits in HSS and they will way outperform any juiced up imports..
I'm not sure this is correct, the Drill Hog label shows USA in fairly big letters. I'll be pretty pissed if this is not the case.
I do think Pal is correct. They are a re-labeler, or sourcer, not a manufacturer. There's some really really negative reviews to be found. They have a warranty but getting them to do anything about it seems to be non-existent. They may be the best Chicom?
I do think Pal is correct. They are a re-labeler, or sourcer, not a manufacturer. There's some really really negative reviews to be found. They have a warranty but getting them to do anything about it seems to be non-existent. They may be the best Chicom?
^&*$@%!
I just went to the Drill Hog website and, of course, there is no way to contact them. No address, no e-mail address and no phone number - a tale tell sign that they're trying to hide something, namely that they're products are MIC.
Misleading, false advertising. Apparently, I got screwed.
I sent a message to the seller asking about the country of manufacture. We'll see what he says in his reply. If they're made anywhere other than USA, he'll be sending me a return shipping label for a full refund, since the ad was misleading - featuring a label with "USA" prominently displayed.
I think I'm gonna' give the Drill Hogs to my Dad. He's got about a thousand drill bits in the shop, but all of 'em suck. He needs a decent set and the Drill Hogs should suffice.
Then, I will decide which American made HS bit index to get - probably Norseman.
I received the Drill Hogs today and I think they might be American made. Embossed on the front cover of the index, are the words "MADE IN USA." Also embossed is "Huot," which I believe is a company that just makes indexes. These Molybdenum bits sure look like Norseman bits, but I guess there's no telling where they were manufactured. Drill Hog is probably just rebranding them and selling them under their own name. If these bits are not Made in USA, Drill Hog is unquestionably engaging in deceptive trade practices. The Drill Hog bits definitely look like quality bits, but the proof will be in the cutting. It's not worth the hassle of returning them.
I just heard back from Mike at Drill Hog. He stated that "Drill Hog is made in America."
He also offered to send me a free small bottle of their cutting oil.
Good news.
These Drill Hogs bits certainly look better made than any of Chinese bits I have looked at closely. But as I stated, the proof will be in the cutting ability.
I asked Mike at Drill Hog if Norseman is their supplier, but I doubt he will answer that particular question.
I received the Drill Hogs today and I think they might be American made. Embossed on the front cover of the index, are the words "MADE IN USA." Also embossed is "Huot," which I believe is a company that just makes indexes. These Molybdenum bits sure look like Norseman bits, but I guess there's no telling where they were manufactured. Drill Hog is probably just rebranding them and selling them under their own name. If these bits are not Made in USA, Drill Hog is unquestionably engaging in deceptive trade practices. The Drill Hog bits definitely look like quality bits, but the proof will be in the cutting. It's not worth the hassle of returning them.
Um, the Huot index is readily available to purchase. Drill Hog are slimy phucqkers I have concluded.
Um, the Huot index is readily available to purchase. Drill Hog are slimy phucqkers I have concluded.
Thanks. Yes, I am aware that Huot makes drill indexes available for purchase, as I stated in my post that you quoted.
Mike at Drill Hog told me, in writing, that they are made in America.
Drill Hog may indeed be a shady company, and it may be difficult to get them to honor the warranty, but the bits themselves should be perfectly adequate if they are indeed made in America. I only paid $31.00. I suspect that the bits they sell were supplied by Norseman. We'll see if Mike at Drill Hog confirms that suspicion.
I have a bunch of loose Co bits. All that have room for text say USA. I think they're blowing smoke.
They just might be, but for him to say, in writing, that the bits are made in America, makes the company liable if he's lying, wouldn't you think? Why would he lie and put his company at risk? Do you have any evidence that Drill Hog bits are MIC?
On their site it says, "Made by Drill Hog USA." There is no such thing as a Drill Hog Factory is there? Where on their tools does it say Made in USA? It damned well would. But, there's fans out there. I am curious. Some indicate they look just like Norseman bits.... Maybe. Their business address is like a UPS mail box in CA. WTF is that? LOL
Viking is made in St Paul MN. Easy to find. No BS. You can apply for a job and everything.
I received the Drill Hogs today and I think they might be American made. Embossed on the front cover of the index, are the words "MADE IN USA." Also embossed is "Huot," which I believe is a company that just makes indexes...
Please!!!
The Huot index is made in USA. Nowhere on Drill Hog USA's site does it say "made in USA".
On their site it says, "Made by Drill Hog USA." There is no such thing as a Drill Hog Factory is there? Where on their tools does it say Made in USA? It damned well would. But, there's fans out there. I am curious. Some indicate they look just like Norseman bits.... Maybe. Their business address is like a UPS mail box in CA. WTF is that? LOL
Viking is made in St Paul MN. Easy to find. No BS. You can apply for a job and everything.
I don’t dispute anything you stated.
Originally Posted by pal
Please!!!
The Huot index is made in USA. Nowhere on Drill Hog USA's site does it say "made in USA".
Look fellers, I’ve stated several times that I am aware the Huot index alone is made in USA.
I am also aware that the Drill Hog website does not state anywhere that their products are Made in USA. What I did state, is that I received an e-mail from Mike at Drill Hog who stated, in writing, that “Drill Hog is made in America.” I don’t have any actual evidence that contradicts his claim. Whether or not he’s lying, I cannot say.
Also, as I’ve stated, I only paid $31.00, including shipping. It would not be worth the hassle to return them. I can always order a set of Norseman or Viking bits for not that much more cash.
Maybe I got screwed, but at least it wasn't a Royal Screwing. After all, I did receive the bits I ordered and they certainly look like decent bits.
I received the Drill Hogs today and I think they might be American made. Embossed on the front cover of the index, are the words "MADE IN USA." Also embossed is "Huot," which I believe is a company that just makes indexes...
Please!!!
The Huot index is made in USA. Nowhere on Drill Hog USA's site does it say "made in USA".
There are lots of specific items that state MADE IN USA on Drill Hog’s site.
I received the Drill Hogs today and I think they might be American made. Embossed on the front cover of the index, are the words "MADE IN USA." Also embossed is "Huot," which I believe is a company that just makes indexes...
Please!!!
The Huot index is made in USA. Nowhere on Drill Hog USA's site does it say "made in USA".
There are lots of specific items that state MADE IN USA on Drill Hog’s site.
Also says Drill Hog is from Montana. More bullchit. Left hand bits do say Proudly made in the USA. US Made by Drill Hog. Drill Hog® is a professional manufacture of Drill Bits and cutting tools based in Montana USA LOL Hole saws too. Pretty damned sleazy.
I'm not defending Drill Hog, as I'd really like to know if they are indeed made in America, but no one has been able to post any evidence whatsoever that Drill Hog bits are made in Chiner.
Somebody with computer skills should be able to find out if the company is based in California. Calif has a "supply chain disclosure law" that requires companies to make available: components, parts and assembly origins. I don't think there is much compliance though in the real world. RCBS has a page that says they are compliant and participating...but it seems to be a dead end.
Obviously they source select items from US manufacturers, such as the left hand drills and hole saws And flaunt the flag and US made indexes to make it appear other items are US manufactured which are not. Are they COO Chinky? I would presume so.
Would Mike fib a little? Are the non domestic items usable? Is it sleazy a phucqk to say they're a manufacturer? Any evidence of a factory or any other presence in Montana? What business that is up and up has only a UPS box in California? No physical address. No telephone number provided? No FACTORY?
My only experience with this was after HN mentioned the company I got on Ebay and was like hell yes I am sold... Then got concerns and started digging. If you look, you will see the reason for the doubts listed. I intentionally buy China chit, sometimes directly, but, I damned well want the information to decide. Ten years ago Amazon listed COO on all items. No more. It's gotten so bad. Phucqk Drill Hog.
Well I didn't read all this & had never heard of Drill Hog. So I looked them up & first thing I read was, the newest technology in drill bit material, molly. "M7" steel.
M7 was developed by the Cleveland Twist Drill Corp. prior to 1972, & if memory serves it was even a registered trade mark for them.. I don't when exactly, but they hired me in 72 & M7 was present. The drill rod was color coded green buy the inspector, me.
So, right out of the gate, I get BS from a company I just looked up. I'll second or third the motion, fugg DH.
Oh Mighty Keyboard Warriors! I am but a lowly knave in this realm, and though my drill bit knowledge be small, I prostrate myself before your vast knowledge and world-renowned drill bit expertise:
Again, y'all may indeed be correct, but you still have not posted any evidence.
While I'm not disputing anything any of you have stated, until I see definitive proof to the contrary, y'all are just bloviating.
I was asked to post evidence that Drill Hog is made in USA. Not sure why I would need to do this. The onus is on you since y'all are the ones claiming the contrary. This be the only 'evidence' I have:
This entire 'argument' is absolutely ridiculous. We're talking about a $31.00 purchase. Were y'all aware of this fact?
I think I'll print out this thread, grind it up, and apply it liberally to my garden. Jerry
I'm with Hotrod.
As a lowely knave, I can only advise that you use a shredder rather than a grinder - GoodGod Man! Use the right tool for the job! Isn't that what this thread is all about?
Also and FYI, Drill Hog has 100% Positive Feedback based upon 46,546 sales on flea-bay. I don't believe this would be the case if they sold Chinese crap.
I think I'll print out this thread, grind it up, and apply it liberally to my garden. Jerry
I'm with Hotrod.
As a lowely knave, I can only advise that you use a shredder rather than a grinder - GoodGod Man! Use the right tool for the job! Isn't that what this thread is all about?
Please include specifications on shredder and how many decades’ experience one has with it. 🤣
Also and FYI, Drill Hog has 100% Positive Feedback based upon 46,546 sales on flea-bay. I don't believe this would be the case if they sold Chinese crap.
Who said they sell Chinese crap? They sell the best Chinese chit so as to appear as US manufactured. LOL
OK then fellers, I bow in deference to your experience. At this point, I believe the only possible way to satiate the drill bit gods is to inquire at the source. Below is a letter I just penned to Mike at Drill Hog, which I am planning to send later this afternoon:
Mike:
I have done considerable research on your company and your products. I do not like what I have uncovered:
1) Drill Hog has no physical address. 2) Drill Hog does not have a manufacturing facility in the US. 3) Drill Hog has no e-mail address or phone number. 4) Drill Hog’s “location” is a P.O. Box in Rancho Cucamonga, CA. 5) No one that I have found so far, has had any success w/ Drill Hog’s warranty. 6) Drill Hog's LLC was created on 4/19/17 by a Chinese company. 7) The bits I received are not stamped Made in USA. 8) Drill Hog has deceptively encased the bits I received in a Huot index, which is an index that is made in America and is readily available for purchase from a real American company with a real address and real contact information. 9) In my initial inquiry to you, I asked you where the Drill Bits were manufactured. In your reply, you stated that “Drill Hog is made in America!” You did not state that the specific drill bits I ordered and inquired about were Made in America. This is a sleight-of-hand maneuver. 10) On your website, you tout the newest technology in drill bit material, Moly M7 steel, but M7 steel was developed by the Cleveland Twist Drill Corp prior to 1972! 11) CA has a supply chain disclosure law. Drill Hog does not appear to be in compliance with this law.
Please address each of these concerns; otherwise, it will be abundantly clear that Drill Hog is engaging in Deceptive Trade Practices. You sold me a drill bit set under the guise of American manufacture, which is clearly not the case. If you are unwilling to address all of these concerns, please e-mail me a return shipping label so that I can return these bits for a full refund. Thank you.
Noon, you'd think you were a new guy the way they pile on. Good luck drilling a few holes.
Agreed. As I stated before, who knew that drill bits could excite such a heated debate.
I was unaware just how critical drill bits were for the average slob. I'm thankful I've been edumicated. Once I have ordered and received my new Made in America HSS bit set, I will be able to drill holes with full confidence and aplomb; whereas, before I was merely a pretender and a poser.
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.
So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.
So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?
I don't consider myself a machinist but I have done quite a bit of machining on lathes, drill presses and milling machines. I have machined mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, delrin, pvc and several other materials. It seems to me when cutting something the last thing you want is lubrication. Cutting fluid is designed to cool the cutting tool not lubricate it. I have seen people use motor oil, WD40, grease and other lubricants when trying to cut metal. This seems counterproductive to me. The reason I bring this up is to emphasize you need to use a coolant designed for the material you are machining. Am I missing something here?
Lubricity helps the chip flow over the cutting edge of the tool. It also helps prevent a built up edge just behind the cutting edge of the tool. Try single point threading stainless steel on a lathe using water for coolant and then use the dark resulfurized oil. You'll see how the chip tears and destroys the flank of the thread. Or you can try to machine aluminum without using lubricant. The endmill will become impacted with aluminum almost instantly.
So what about drilling holes through steel in awkward positions? I.E., not on a bench machine drilling straight down. Say you're using a hand drill on a truck frame drilling sideways or a vertical steel column, or through a steel plate from below lying on your back where gravity works against keeping lube or coolant on the bit. Do you guys still use a cutting oil/coolant or something more like a paste or grease that can stay on the bit? Anyone use a stream of compressed air to cool the bit while drilling? What are your techniques for these kinds of situations?
Improvise and over come!
In such situations a strong dosing of swear words will suffice for lubricant....
Jobber length or Mechanic? That's really the important question.
Lots of different applications, lots of different solutions. Run the proper rpm and try to maintain even pressure. Frames aren't that thick. Columns, steel plate, porta-mag drills work. Drills or roto-broaches. Millwrights usually weren't too concerned with using oil/coolant when drilling. I'd sharpen drill bits for them, they weren't allowed access to my drill cabinet. Some people will have a small container of cutting oil to dip the bit, others use an acid brush to paint some lube on the bit. We also had the plastic squirt bottles filled with the brown cutting oil while other people would use the water soluble synthetic coolant that we ran in our machine shop machines. If we ran an air blast it was generally a mister with either coolant or a synthetic oil like Cool-Tool. But that was generally reserved for machine shop equipment that didn't have flood coolant.
Oh Mighty Keyboard Warriors! I am but a lowly knave in this realm, and though my drill bit knowledge be small, I prostrate myself before your vast knowledge and world-renowned drill bit expertise:
Again, y'all may indeed be correct, but you still have not posted any evidence.
While I'm not disputing anything any of you have stated, until I see definitive proof to the contrary, y'all are just bloviating.
I was asked to post evidence that Drill Hog is made in USA. Not sure why I would need to do this. The onus is on you since y'all are the ones claiming the contrary. This be the only 'evidence' I have:
This entire 'argument' is absolutely ridiculous. We're talking about a $31.00 purchase. Were y'all aware of this fact?
The email surely doesn’t look like it was written by a Chinamen holed up in a City of Industry, CA basement. In fact, Mike writes better than most of our members from Tennessee.
Lots of different applications, lots of different solutions. Run the proper rpm and try to maintain even pressure. Frames aren't that thick. Columns, steel plate, porta-mag drills work. Drills or roto-broaches. Millwrights usually weren't too concerned with using oil/coolant when drilling. I'd sharpen drill bits for them, they weren't allowed access to my drill cabinet. Some people will have a small container of cutting oil to dip the bit, others use an acid brush to paint some lube on the bit. We also had the plastic squirt bottles filled with the brown cutting oil while other people would use the water soluble synthetic coolant that we ran in our machine shop machines. If we ran an air blast it was generally a mister with either coolant or a synthetic oil like Cool-Tool. But that was generally reserved for machine shop equipment that didn't have flood coolant.
I don't know where they're made these days. But Cleveland Twist Drill and Chicago Latrobe products are frequently found around places that need quality metalworking tools.
A quality 115 piece number, letter, and fractional set made by either of those manufacturers will set you back north of $300,...probably significantly more of they contain 8% cobalt.
I don't know for sure. I haven't checked prices in a while.
wheelnut: I need bits that will drill through hardened steel, stainless and mild steel. These bits are not for professional use, they are for my own personal use at the home and ranch and they will not be used daily. I just need bits that will work when I need them to - I'm tired of using schitty bits that don't work worth a crap in various types of steels.
High Noon I would check with Graingers it is a big Catalog for industrial tools. Brownells has a big catalog full of gunsmithing tools and they handle drills and taps for small holes. When you said hand held that told me you do not need carbide. If you say stainless there are about 30 different kinds of alloys and I was a CNC machinist and we always used water based coolants unless it was heat treated then we used cutting oil. Very messy and noisy.
What I am trying to say is that you will need different tools for different materials. Save your cheap Chinese drills for wood or mild steel. Break out your good stuff for stainless steel or other alloys like inconel. The harder the material is the shorter the tool life will be. Sometimes you'll need to change tools in the middle of a hole.
Slow down drilling. More pressure is better. Use a water soluble oil. Cutting oil doesn’t cool like the water does. Heat is your enemy. Cobalt drills are maybe 3 points harder on RC than regular HSS. Worth it. The titanium nitrate coating only helps if you have a good steel under it. You can coat carbon steel. 135 with a split point. 135 deg is less tool interface. Split point takes less tool pressure. Run a fine stone across the the cutting edge. Crates works best. Sandpaper is fine. So it’s smooth when you run your finger along it. That very sharp edge breaks down quicker. And then you are dull. The stoned edge is much tougher. I’ll drill thru 4’ of parts of 410 or 316 SS without having to sharpen the drill. 2” drill. Regular HSS not cobalt.
I’m too lazy not to do it right. Some guys will go and hand sharpen 5-7 times for the same job.
Any other questions. Just ask. And slowdown and keep the pressure up.
This is the answer. I live stainless steel, working maintenance in the food industry.
wheelnut: Thanks. Yes, I’m very familiar w/ Graingers, but they tend to charge top dollar, so I usually look elsewhere unless it’s an obscure part. I don’t often drill stainless steel, but when I do, I definitely need the correct type of bit as my Chiner-crap bits won’t get the job done. I understand that different materials (hardened steels, etc.) require different type of bits, but I was thinking that a quality American made HSS set or Moly set would be adequate for my needs and cover most, if not all, the materials I work with.
nemotheangler: Thanks. I don’t think I need Cobalt bits at this time. Perhaps I’ll get a set to use exclusively on my drill press.
I ran into a piece of Inconel the other day. Had to break through it with carbide. Ordered a new piece to replace the bad one. No pecking around on that stuff....
I worked at a nuclear place once that was making heat exchangers out of inconel. Nastiest material I ever came across
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/8PWT9kFd/8-E2-A1-A43-072-A-4-EDC-96-D9-DC6-A2-B7-ABAAD.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/6pXBXsRk/DED52-BCC-B83-E-412-A-ABAD-F717-A4246920.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/SAefNJw.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/ww5p7DV.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/62r2uLF.png)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/aZSk2jm.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/P4wAAOSw2PpfzlOZ/s-l1600.jpg)