Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Point of Impact Shifting

I just went and watched the video to which you referred. The rifle he is bedding is very unlike your model 70 FWT, and unless you had some extra clues on how to do a rifle like yours it is likely following his techniques might induce problems.
Did you place a couple layers of masking tape on the front, bottom, and sides of your recoil lug, and relive the wood around these points, so that after your epoxy cured you had perfect contact on the bottom of the action and the back of the recoil lug, and just a tiny bit of clearance on the sides, bottom, and front of the lug? The bottom is particularly important.
Did you float the whole barrel or provide some support for the first inch or more? I used to always provide support but lately have learned that with a rifle like your M70, where the front action screw is well aft of the recoil lug, no support forward of the receiver may be required, and I am in the process of testing this with mine. Rifles like Mausers and Springfields where the front screw goes into the recoil lug apparently are better served with an inch or two of support beyond the receiver.

Standing by,
Rex

If you are getting two good shots and then a flyer, then cool the rifle down and it repeats, the two good shots then a flyer. I believe the problem is your barrel is heating up and walking. As was mentioned earlier, try waiting five minutes between shots and see what happens. You probably did a good job bedding so at some point you might try putting some upward pressure on the barrel by inserting something between the barrel and forearm tip.(paper, cardboard etc.)

Rex, I did put a layer of tape on the front of the lug but not the bottom. The barrel came free-floated by Winchester and it remains so after I bedded it. my bedding job looks almost exactly like what came from Winchester except without the large bubbles that were in the factory job. I'd say the first 3/4" of the barrel in front of the reciver are supported by the bedding compound. Sounds to me, though, like I may have made a critical error by not putting tape on the bottom of the lug(?).

Thanks for your help.

Remove the bedding under the barrel. Obviously rex didnt read my earlier post. There are ways to check your bedding job and make sure your receiver isn't stressed/torqued. I dont know how some of these guys' fwt rifles shoot, but i do know how mine do. It would be wise to read through the posts of members that are known for having extremely accurate model 70's. Some of us aren't just guessing. Hint.

bsa, Sorry if I missed something I shouldn't have in your post. I will indeed study it more. So I understand, are you and advocate of the bottom of the recoil lug bearing some of the weight when the front screw is torqued down, or do you relive the area underneath the lug itself so that all the down force is on the flat of the recoil lug under the action, and the round part of the receiver directly in front of the lug?
I much appreciate your expertise and appreciate the input.

Thanks,
Rex

I think your on the right track in looking at the bedding. Sorry to say but there is a lot more bad bedding jobs than good. Removing the material supporting the first couple of inches of barrel I would do first. Also make sure your screw holes are a bit larger than the action screws. A rat tail file or chain saw file is perfect for this.

I’ve seen where M70’s have preferred a single contact point for recoil. In other words, they didn’t like the area under the tang acting as a mini-recoil lug. If you bedded this area, I would remove some material that would normally absorb the backward thrust as the sides of the stock where the mag well is will flex under recoil.

If that doesn’t fix, remove a very thin layer of material under the lug. I’ve seen some not care about this, while others preferred that the only bottom contact point be the flat surface behind the lug. Keep tinkering you will figure it out and learn a lot in the process.

Replace the tally’s with steel bases and mounts before you start grubbing out the bedding job...... Then run a tracking test on your glass.

Good post!

I would remove some bedding under the bottom of the recoil lug. Just enough to have clearance. A small chisel or even a screw driver used as a scraper would be enough. This in addition to the other checks.

It was mentioned but I’ll mention it again. Along with the other advice given, make sure the barrel is clean. I’ve found the the Barnes t shock or lrx shoot best with a clean bore as well.

It’s easy to diagnose a bedding problem. Its unlikely you have a mag base and clock gauge but the tip of your finger can tell you a lot. Loosen and tighten the front action screw while holding your finger in the crook between where the fore stock ends and the barrel extends beyond. You are trying to detect movement between the stock and barrel when you loosen the action screws. ( one at a time )

Of no movement is detected, your bedding is good. If movement is detected , the bedding needs improving.

Is the third shot always the flyer?

The Cure is too fhuqking easy and too fhuqking obvious,but it's funnier than fhuqk to watch these Droolers,do their best. Hint.

Funny schit and I mean fhuqking FUNNY!

Bless their hearts for trying though.

Hint.

Laughing!...............

Help the man out, Big Stick. Be the hero.

Already did...

Well yeah, but not in English 😀

Clean the damned bore.
Relieve the front,sides and bottom of the lug.
Make sure the bolt is not touching the stock when closed.
Make sure the box magazine has a little wiggle when in place.
Check all mounting screws.
Shoot it again and let us know.

Salvage,

Please cite any/all words I've used,that were "too big" or "too Technical" for you to follow and I'll happily grant you the opportunity,to extoill your Dumbfhuqktitude even more. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You'd do well to read thangs multiple times,take notes and apply same. Hint.

Bless your heart,for doing your best.

Hint.

Laughing!.............







bitchigainchodeswill,

You are in soooooooooo fhuqking far over your pointy head and crossed-eyes,that it's simply a fhuqking shame,that you haven't the (3) IQ Points requisite,to savvy same. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Gals with your versions of "knowledge","experience" and "results",will ALWAYS be best served by asking questions,rather than giving "answers". Not that I don't enjoy the innate HILARITY of a Jerry Lewis Telethon...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Laughing!

PM an addy and I'll shoot you $20,to procure a video of you trying to put water into your own glass. Thanks in advance,for the unequalled laughs! Hint.

Bless your heart,for thinking you "have" a clue.

Hint.

LAUGHING!....................

The OP is new to this game. I believe he is hoping to find a few tweaks he can do himself to
get a reasonably affordable hunting rifle to perform consistently at minute of deer or less.

So hopefully some of the common sense and useful things suggested here will help him along.

Of course both the OP, myself and some others identified here should just Stick around and be amazed at what we find at
the foot end of the bell curve. IF we can remotely understand the dialect.
We should do is just start out by spending a pile of money up front and then let the world know how great we are
and how pathetic the rest of the world is.

WallyWhitetail
Just do the common sense things suggested here before going off the deep end. It ain't rocket science or magic.

Since you have to remove your scope to check the ring mounting screws, stand the scope on a hand mirror on the lowest magnification and look into the scope. You will see two reticles. Adjust the scope reticle until you see one imposed over the other. Hold the rear of the scope in one hand and whack it into the open palm of your other hand and check the reticle alignment with the mirror. Check it more than once if the reticle didn't move. If the reticle did move, recenter the reticle and see if it moves again. If the reticle moved your scope is bad.

It could be lots of things, and you've gotten good advice on this thread. I would:
1. Clean the bore. There are many threads here about the best ways to do that. Not sure how YouTube guy formed his opinion, but he’d be laughed out of any group of serious precision shooters for suggesting that it's OK to ignore copper fouling.
2. There’s way more to mounting a scope than “nice and tight.” In fact, being too tight can cause major issues and damage your scope. Mount your scope as described here https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/13980311/1
3. Torque the action screws to the recommended tension and double check that the barrel is free floated.
4. Try some different loads.

I’d start to look at the bedding IF none of those help.

And definitely keep us posted as to how things go.


Okie John