Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Favorite Gun Oil

I submit that the deer are gonna smell you anyway if they're downwind of you.

I thought this would be brought up. They might, but why give them such a heavy scent stream if you can avoid it? To my way of thinking if I clean up real well, they might get a faint Windfall whiff, but they won't know if it is a human at 200 yards or 50 yards in which case it would be too late I hope. Give them a nose full of something as foreign smelling as a strong oil based Break Free or the like and you wouldn't even know they were there. Just a theory, but my trophy room is't half bad doing what I do. It probably depends on where you hunt too. I can get away with a lot more when I'm hunting farm land deer that are use to people than I can hunting deep woods deer.

All in good fun. I actually shot the biggest buck of my life while I had a cigar butt clamped in my mouth.

My father used to drink coffee and eat Pop Tarts (pre plastic envelope) that he warmed against his Jon-e hand warmer. He got plenty of deer too.

Since someone mentioned ATF was developed as a substitute for sperm oil I'll say that RIG gun grease was developed as a substitute for cosmoline during WWII. Just as effective in long term storage and shipment but easy to wipe off the excess and get the weapon in service in short order.

But not for lubrication. Over years RIG will turn waxy and gum stuff up. Also stiffens in cold weather. Finally not much film strength. For lubrication I like Break Free in a needle oiler or Valvoline SynPower moly fortified synthetic grease where I want high film strength. It's a lot like the expensive stuff Brownell's sells in the little jar, Action Lube II IIRC. Just the thing for snow blowers too. Firearms made with modern steel need little lubrication

And for internal corrosion protection I like Brownell's Rust Preventive No.2. Spray the stuff on after a deep cleaning, blow off the excess, and it dries to a thin film adhering to the metal. Which is all you need for where the film can't be disturbed by your sweaty little fingers.

Buy a quart of syn ATF. It will outlast your grandkids

Snowwolfe,

And cost a lot less--though you can spend the money saved on grandchildren!

Depends on what I’m using it for.

Rem Oil
G96 Gun Treatment
Breakfree CLP
Pro Gold Lubricant

Mike,

Short version: Breakfree CLP

Reasons:
1) It's commonly available. You can find it nearly anywhere guns are sold.
2) It's not outrageously priced. $6-7 for a 4oz can isn't bad as far as gun specific oils are concerned.
3) It's been proven over time to work decently at what it claims to do (I find it's weakest attribute is as a cleaner). It may not be the best lube or protectant out there, but it's still good at both.
4) While it does thicken a bit in very cold weather (sub-zero temps) it still is fairly thin and shouldn't impede firearm function (not a consideration for Florida).

The biggest downside is the smell is a bit strong.

I also like Ballistol and find it a better cleaner than Breakfree CLP but maybe it trails a bit as a lube or protectant. Still good enough on both counts for my uses. It is safe on wood, plastics, leather, etc and is non-toxic which I like. It can also be used to clean up fouling from black powder if you dabble in that area as well. Some people claim it smells like wet socks and to others it smells faintly of licorice. I have the non-aerosol can and I think it smells faintly of licorice. It's also not commonly available, except perhaps on-line.

But I also don't have to deal with a humid or salt-water environment. If looking for a top protectant I'd look at:
Guardian LP
Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner w/ DynaGlide
Corrosion X
Eesox
Frog Lube (may gum in cold weather. Again, not a consideration for Florida).

Since 2007, the only gun "oil" I use is prolix. It goes on wet like water, dries completely dry like water, and I have never had better protection. I highly recommend people take a look at it. You can google prolix lubricant. You can literally dunk your equipment in it, let it drip dry, and your stuff is protected. It is not oily but dries to an invisible barrier over the metal. Love it and only use it. Even in the high humidity of Houston, I never get rust of any kind. I run a wet patch of it through my barrels at the end of the season and it is good to go. They also sell a thicker "grease" that is great for slides.

Yah think?

The best way to mask scent is to follow Rover's system and go roll around in some manure.

Whatever you use, it didn't cost enough. Everyone knows gun oils work better the more you spend.

I heard my buddy's friend got some of the cleaner/lubricant that they used in the space shuttle. Apparently, it's worth something like $800 an ounce, but don't quote me on that.

Anyway, my buddy's friend swears that when he used a single patch of it on his tiller that had been sitting out all winter, it not only removed the dirt and rust, but it bonded with the metal, filling in the cracks and pitting. Oddly, it also restored the red paint that was applied new at the factory. Amazing.

He said he was gonna clean his wife with it. They've been married for 35 years and he said she's in bad shape.

Steve
Please post the final results when your buddy uses it on his wife.
(If your buddy is still alive and capable of speech)

I just got off the phone with him. Here are the before and after pictures. I think this should prove, beyond all doubt, that the more you spend on gun oil, the better the result.

Before



After a single NASA Gun Oil treatment

Ah, yes, that tired old line dreamed up by some huckster and blindly accepted by too many: "You get what you pay for."

It's a slippery slope that you're walking. A person could go off on a tangent about spending more than they can afford on rifle scopes, rifles, binoculars, bullets, etc.

Wait a minute! Isn't that happening on other parts of this board?

I wonder, has anyone got into a discussion about not going hunting with a domestic truck or 4x4? I'm thinking that you cannot be a successful hunter if you drive a Ford or a Chevy! I think the minimum would be a Mercedes 4x4 or a Range Rover. One's gun oil should not be transported in a North American made vehicle.

For quick wipe down I use whatever I have on hand.....a silicon cloth, Remoil, or Breakfree CLP. For lube in tight places I do like Gun Butter with the needle tip....puts lube right where you want it with no waste.

Damn have only hunted out of the Mercedes sedan or coups, need to upgrade.

So if anyone knows, do the polarizing and other additives make any difference? Is Teflon good bad or indifferent?

After this thread it will be ATF or Ed's Red for clean up, Mobil 1 for lube, Axle grease (cup grease?) for storage and a variation of the Samuri plant based oils for knives and hunting when scent might matter. I am still looking for ways to make Ed's Red have that auh de parfum of Hoppes #9 getting darn close with some banana oil, plant based benzene and a little orange oil. Bought some mil surplus bore cleaner that I think was 50% Benzene, gives you PTSD after one use.

Was at an auto parts store a few months ago and saw a small bottle of Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. Bought it and began using it with excellent results. It stays put, is very slippery and doesn't burn off.

It isn't a CLP, nor AFIK a rust preventative, but it is a superior lubricant for everything I've tried it on. Comes in a neat, well made container with a pinpoint metal applicator tip.