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The latest issue of Rifle has a write up on the Ruger Hawkeye Hunter. John Haviland quoted the action screw torques and tried the mid screw set at snug and then set to 60 in/lb and the rifle shot better. I'm not doubting Mr Haviland but has anyone else here found their 77s shoot better with the mid screw tight?
The Karma bus always has an empty seat when it comes around.- High Brass
There's battle lines being drawn Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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No, usually the middle screw should just be snug. Not real tight per se. Similar to the model 70. This is on my glass bedded 77's. I also don't torque to the suggested 90 inch pounds on the front action screw either. When they are properly glass bedded, you don't need to torque them that tight. Front about 60 inch pounds and rear about 45...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Campfire Tracker
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Middle screw just barely touching in all mine, front at 65 and rear at 50 post bedding.
When I die I hope I don't start voting democrat.
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Campfire Tracker
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With MkII’s and Hawkeyes, front angled screw farmer tight (my torque driver only goes to 60), rear screw set at 40, middle screw barely snug. Tightened in that order. Has worked on all such rifles I have owned and I’ve never needed to bed one set up in this manner. I’m a big fan of Ruger Mk II’s, and this works for me.
If we live long enough, we all have regrets. But the ones that nag at us the most are the ones in which we know we had a choice.
Doug
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I do the same with my Rugers. 60-55 in/lbs front and 45 rear, Barely snug for the middle screw and the mag box free floating.
The Karma bus always has an empty seat when it comes around.- High Brass
There's battle lines being drawn Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,088 Likes: 6 |
I do the same with my Rugers. 60-55 in/lbs front and 45 rear, Barely snug for the middle screw and the mag box free floating. With MkII’s and Hawkeyes, front angled screw farmer tight (my torque driver only goes to 60), rear screw set at 40, middle screw barely snug. Tightened in that order. Has worked on all such rifles I have owned and I’ve never needed to bed one set up in this manner. I’m a big fan of Ruger Mk II’s, and this works for me. You may not "have to" bed them, but once you start, you'll find your rifles shoot more accurately, more consistently and don't change poi over time. I'll generally cut the group size in half after properly glass bedding a 77... Also, you are risking cracking your stock, if you do not glass bed them. Especially the heavy kickers...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Campfire Tracker
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Dave, You are right on with the free floating mag box.
BSA, Thanks for the tips, but all my Rugers have had and currently have Ruger synthetic stocks so I haven’t worried too much about cracking the stock. And I no longer shoot “hard kickers”. I don’t have the need for anything bigger than .308 Winchester or 7mm-08.
Last edited by lastround; 05/26/20.
If we live long enough, we all have regrets. But the ones that nag at us the most are the ones in which we know we had a choice.
Doug
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Good info....thx for sharing.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I had a 77 that came from Ruger whose front screw was set to either a gazillion pounds or loctited Red. I had to send it back. Last few synthetics were just tightened normally and all shot well.
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Loose front screw will act as a slide hammer and break stock. Which is why I glass bed my Ruger 77,s, and keep the front screw tight. Had several that quit shooting well and front screw had loosened. Noticed some Ruger 77,s had a dimple on screw threads, perhaps to keep them tight?
kk alaska
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