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Swift makes a 348 Aframe. That should be a great choice.

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Looks like the A-Frame is only in 200-gr. Would think maybe more better than the earlier Hornady FPs, but I wonder if the 250-gr Woodleigh Weldcore wouldn't be better for thread topic?

I've thought HCLs would be decent, too, but maybe only if even heavier -- 275? 300? -- given they'd likely be at lower velocity anyway. No experience with HCLs in rifles, though.

And no experience with coastal brown bears, for that matter.

I wonder if T.R. might have thought an M71 chambered for something like .411 (??) Winchester -- same case as the .348 -- was the bee's knees if Winchester had intro'd both at the same time (and if T.R. was still alive then), perhaps as a legit successor to the 1895 .405 for those who didn't gravitate toward a Model 70. I don't have lots of hands-on with the M1895, but they've seemed kinda clunky compared to my M71.

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Mythical situation: Hiking out for a bear watch in coastal AK or Kodiak Island, etc... and carrying a Winchester Model 71 in the original .348 Winchester chambering. IOW, not hunting, just thinking to keep Br'er Bear from chewing parts off attendant personages.

Which bullets better, and (ideally) why: Woodleigh 250-grain Weldcore, Hawk 270-grain or 250-grain FP, Barnes Original 250-grain "Solid", or even the Swift 200-grain A-Frame?

(I've already assumed the original Winchester 200-grain Silvertips, the original Hornady 200-grain FPs, and the Hornady 200-grain FTXs would be non-starters in this role.)

-Chris

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Originally Posted by 1Akshooter
I worked with a guy long ago that had a .300 Win. Mag. made up for a Dall sheep hunt. It had a heavy 27 inch barrel and a big scope and weighed right at 12 pounds. .

Now, here's a sheep rifle... smirk

Bet it'll top 12#'s.

Posted this one before.

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Bears move fast and have to be anchored. I have shot bull elk with an original 1895 in.405 WCF. Its a good cartridge
and many bears have been killed with it. I also have a few Model 71s, including a 348 Ack Imp which will handle a 270 gr Hawk bullet. And a 450 AK on a pre-war Deluxe Model 71.
But for coastal big brownies, its a early M-70 in 338WM-375 H&H . Backed up by a 450 Alaskan. Always a good idea to bring two rifles
on a guided hunt up here.

If your rifle goes south-where is the closest gunsmith? Another heavy rifle is the answer.
If you are fishing and an irritated brownie shows up in the alders and its getting late on the trail,
I would prefer a 450 AK with 400 gr bullets and fast reloading of a smooth Winchester M-71 any day. Maybe even a 50-100-450 1886 Winchester if he squares over 10 ft. and is all teeth and claws- & mad.

Bolt actions are SLOW for repeat shots compared to a slick Winchester or Marlin lever action rifle.


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Originally Posted by 450Fuller

I also have a few Model 71s, including a 348 Ack Imp which will handle a 270 gr Hawk bullet. And a 450 AK on a pre-war Deluxe Model 71.
But for coastal big brownies, its a early M-70 in 338WM-375 H&H . Backed up by a 450 Alaskan. Always a good idea to bring two rifles
on a guided hunt up here.

I would prefer a 450 AK with 400 gr bullets and fast reloading of a smooth Winchester M-71 any day. Maybe even a 50-100-450 1886 Winchester if he squares over 10 ft. and is all teeth and claws- & mad.

Bolt actions are SLOW for repeat shots compared to a slick Winchester or Marlin lever action rifle.



Yeah, from reading, I get the .45+ thing. I have a .338 WM Model 70, too... but imagine the slowest person you know with a bolt-rifle... and I'm twice as slow.

If I were buying for an actual bear hunt, I'd probably look at one of the Browning M71s... and then maybe have some fun picking a cartridge to rebarrel to. But that's not gonna happen; I never really had much desire to go shoot a bear in the first place...

And my Winchester Model 71 is a family pass-down, '37 serial number, all the "DeLuxe" features, etc... so I don't want to modify it.

Are you saying the Hawk 270 would be better than the Woodleigh bonded 250, for a "bear watch" M71/.348?

-Chris





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That is a good question. Its nip and tuck, but I have used most available 348 bullets including the defunct North Forks.

Would probably go with the bonded core Woodleighs or AK Kodiak 250s . But -given that you want to keep the rifle
unaltered in the original 348 WCF, I would look at the Swift A-frames. They are like a bonded core Nosler.
The weight of 200 grs is good, I believe. If you use a Premium quality bullet, you don't necessarily need
a 348 Ack IMP. Mine worked really well on AK moose. I would carry it as a bear protective measure.

Different story if you are hunting a coastal brownie in the alders. A Model 71 or 1886
is really a point blank to 125 yard rifle. Range is further, but the FP bullets shed velocity really fast.
You need tough bullets that hang together.

Two rifles on a hunt. One rifle, a 348 with the best bullets- on a hiking or fishing trip in AK. (A 30-30 or a 243 will not get it done.)


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Fair enough, thanks. I've got the Wodleigh 250ss, and I have some A-Frame 200s inbound... plus my older supply of Hornady FPs and Barnes 250 Solids.... and some FTX inbound. Sounds like no huge need to order any Hawk 270s, at least for the time being.

This will likely turn into a very slow handloading project: Check sights (mostly for point of aim) with factory 200-grain Silvertips, call it good, think about the others and work up loads at my leisure.

I want to make sure I can reliably slay one of our paper targets at 100 yards... given we don't have too many great bears here on the Chesapeake. Might go on a hog hunt sometime, though. I'd guess almost anything out of a .348 would work for that.

-Chris

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Originally Posted by Ranger4444
Originally Posted by 450Fuller

I also have a few Model 71s, including a 348 Ack Imp which will handle a 270 gr Hawk bullet. And a 450 AK on a pre-war Deluxe Model 71.
But for coastal big brownies, its a early M-70 in 338WM-375 H&H . Backed up by a 450 Alaskan. Always a good idea to bring two rifles
on a guided hunt up here.

I would prefer a 450 AK with 400 gr bullets and fast reloading of a smooth Winchester M-71 any day. Maybe even a 50-100-450 1886 Winchester if he squares over 10 ft. and is all teeth and claws- & mad.

Bolt actions are SLOW for repeat shots compared to a slick Winchester or Marlin lever action rifle.



Yeah, from reading, I get the .45+ thing. I have a .338 WM Model 70, too... but imagine the slowest person you know with a bolt-rifle... and I'm twice as slow.

If I were buying for an actual bear hunt, I'd probably look at one of the Browning M71s... and then maybe have some fun picking a cartridge to rebarrel to. But that's not gonna happen; I never really had much desire to go shoot a bear in the first place...

And my Winchester Model 71 is a family pass-down, '37 serial number, all the "DeLuxe" features, etc... so I don't want to modify it.

Are you saying the Hawk 270 would be better than the Woodleigh bonded 250, for a "bear watch" M71/.348?

-Chris




After another few nano-seconds worth of thought... and a quick glance at citations in the J.J. Donnelly manual... if I were really going to try an actual real-life bear hunt, I bet I could talk myself into a Browning M71 rechambered to .416-348. Not an AI version; just the original .348 necked up to accept 400-grain .416 bullets. LOTS of those to choose from.

I'm thinking the more original shape may better retain the original's smooth feeding, and there's at least one thread around here where somebody made up a .416-348 AI and reported afterwards that it doesn't feed as smoothly as he'd hoped... afterwards thinking the original could have been better.

So... M71 with aperture sights... maybe even a scout mount for a choice of IER scopes and/or RDS options. (I see Browning is offering an optional scout mount for their BLRs; maybe the concept could work here, too.)

Anyway, I could do a LOT to keep from learning how to run a bolt rifle very well. I've actually been practicing that recently; not good. Completely unnatural after almost 60 years of hunting and later also competing with lever rifles.

-Chris

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The 375 H&H will get you there just fine with a lot less fuss...


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And that'd most likely be in a bolt action? I may have mentioned I could probably walk to Alaska and back faster than cycling a bolt rifle... Molasses got nuthin' on me.

And I've already got a .338WM Model 70... so I could continue to be just as slow with that as with a new .375.

Actually, for less fuss, I guess a Marlin or Henry .45-70 lever rifle could be OK, too... just not as attractive to me as a (another) Model 71.

-Chris

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I think you overestimate the need for ultimate speed. Make the first shot properly and it reduces the need for each and every shot that follows.


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I'm certainly willing to believe you're correct... given no bear experience and only armchair analysis.

I'm not thinking about hunting bears, though; instead I'm thinking about protection from being hunted. I'm not entirely used to making that "first shot properly" on teeth approaching me at freight-train speed.

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It's a fast learning curve. "Fast" in both (three?) senses.

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Heh... I think not much attraction to finishing second, either.

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I barreled a handful of BLRs in 375 Ruger. Did one up in 416 Ruger too.
Built a bunch of custom 86s and 71s in 450 and 50 AK

A gadzillion Marlin 95s, a bunch of them in 50AK

Could get a magazine full of .510” 450gr Aframes or Kodiaks in the air as fast as most guys could 30/30s. Still when it came time for hunting and guiding I always reached for a good bolt rifle with a good scope. Most times a 35 Whelen stuffed with 250s, occasionally a 458 pushing 350s at 2550.

I like lever rifles don’t get me wrong. But when the chips, or in a guided hunter’s case the $$$, are down I want things as bombproof as possible. Leverguns inherently aren’t.

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Originally Posted by TheKid


I like lever rifles don’t get me wrong. But when the chips, or in a guided hunter’s case the $$$, are down I want things as bombproof as possible. Leverguns inherently aren’t.


I'm interested in these statements, and I'd like you to elaborate. What do you mean by "Leverguns inherently aren't [bombproof]"?


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Originally Posted by TheKid
I barreled a handful of BLRs in 375 Ruger. Did one up in 416 Ruger too.
Built a bunch of custom 86s and 71s in 450 and 50 AK

A gadzillion Marlin 95s, a bunch of them in 50AK

Could get a magazine full of .510” 450gr Aframes or Kodiaks in the air as fast as most guys could 30/30s. Still when it came time for hunting and guiding I always reached for a good bolt rifle with a good scope. Most times a 35 Whelen stuffed with 250s, occasionally a 458 pushing 350s at 2550.

I like lever rifles don’t get me wrong. But when the chips, or in a guided hunter’s case the $$$, are down I want things as bombproof as possible. Leverguns inherently aren’t.


I always felt like a stainless Remington 7600 "Guide Gun" in 338 Fed would make a good closer quarters brown bear rifle.

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Originally Posted by HuntnShoot
Originally Posted by TheKid


I like lever rifles don’t get me wrong. But when the chips, or in a guided hunter’s case the $$$, are down I want things as bombproof as possible. Leverguns inherently aren’t.


I'm interested in these statements, and I'd like you to elaborate. What do you mean by "Leverguns inherently aren't [bombproof]"?

They have an extra hole, the loading gate, for “stuff” to get in, IE dirt, mud, leaves and whatnot. And are not as easily field stripable in the case of the Marlin and nearly not field stripable in the case of the 1886/71.

The entire repeating function of all centerfire Marlin lever aside from the Levermatics in 30 Carbine and 256Win rely on a part called the carrier rocker or dog to function. This tiny part is about 3/32 thick with a built in stress riser in the bottom of the hook. One round hung up on a feed ramp or halfway out of the mag tube when the follower seizes because the tube has sand in it and that hook will pop right off the carrier. Leaving you with a jammed rifle that will be a slow loading single shot when you get the stoppage cleared. I bet I replaced a couple hundred of those dogs over the years. The extractor is a little square of sheet metal about 3/16x3/16x.020” brazed onto a piece of spring steel. It generally makes contact with a spot on the case rim about 1/16”wide.

Talked with lots of guys who were dead set on “reliable” iron sights on their hunting rifles. I would guess I replaced 2 dozen front blades every fall and 50 of the factory Marlin rear leaves a year. Can’t remember the last time I heard of someone with a decent quality scope of somewhat recent manufacture fogging up. I personally broke the front sight off of my rifle 3 times during my decade hunting AK, some broken when I took a fall or a rifle slid off where it was leaning. Never had a scope lose zero or fog during that time, including hunting in coastal rainforest and once taking a tumble almost 30 feet off a rock face and landing on my scope with the rifle slung across my back.

There’s a reason no military used lever rifles in any meaningful capacity. They just aren’t as tough as a good bolt rifle as well as being more difficult to keep running in the field under poor conditions.

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Originally Posted by TheKid
Originally Posted by HuntnShoot
Originally Posted by TheKid


I like lever rifles don’t get me wrong. But when the chips, or in a guided hunter’s case the $$$, are down I want things as bombproof as possible. Leverguns inherently aren’t.


I'm interested in these statements, and I'd like you to elaborate. What do you mean by "Leverguns inherently aren't [bombproof]"?

They have an extra hole, the loading gate, for “stuff” to get in, IE dirt, mud, leaves and whatnot. And are not as easily field stripable in the case of the Marlin and nearly not field stripable in the case of the 1886/71.

The entire repeating function of all centerfire Marlin lever aside from the Levermatics in 30 Carbine and 256Win rely on a part called the carrier rocker or dog to function. This tiny part is about 3/32 thick with a built in stress riser in the bottom of the hook. One round hung up on a feed ramp or halfway out of the mag tube when the follower seizes because the tube has sand in it and that hook will pop right off the carrier. Leaving you with a jammed rifle that will be a slow loading single shot when you get the stoppage cleared. I bet I replaced a couple hundred of those dogs over the years. The extractor is a little square of sheet metal about 3/16x3/16x.020” brazed onto a piece of spring steel. It generally makes contact with a spot on the case rim about 1/16”wide.

Talked with lots of guys who were dead set on “reliable” iron sights on their hunting rifles. I would guess I replaced 2 dozen front blades every fall and 50 of the factory Marlin rear leaves a year. Can’t remember the last time I heard of someone with a decent quality scope of somewhat recent manufacture fogging up. I personally broke the front sight off of my rifle 3 times during my decade hunting AK, some broken when I took a fall or a rifle slid off where it was leaning. Never had a scope lose zero or fog during that time, including hunting in coastal rainforest and once taking a tumble almost 30 feet off a rock face and landing on my scope with the rifle slung across my back.

There’s a reason no military used lever rifles in any meaningful capacity. They just aren’t as tough as a good bolt rifle as well as being more difficult to keep running in the field under poor conditions.


Thanks for the information. I can see what you mean. I've certainly had my share of functional issues with lever actions in hunting scenarios that caused problems at exactly the wrong time.


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