Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Hen Feather Wear

Perfect. Thanks! The gap on mine is a tad under 1/8" and am shooting basically 9/32 shafts. I may open the gap just a bit and clock the feathers and see what happens. Wish my camera and/or phone do more FPS so slo-mo would catch what is happening better.

I liked the idea of electrical tape in place of the feathers to duplicate the spine effect of the fletch. Did that and matched weight to another shaft, shot a few times with each through paper, then at 5 yds, 10 yds, and 15 yards. Initially the bare shaft was flopping every which way and yielding a nock left tear in the paper. Referenced the most excellent Dynamic Spine Calculator on 3- Rivers website, and went to work. Wound up cutting off 1/4" of shaft and changing tip weight. Now both the bare shaft w/tape and flecthed shaft are shooting just almost the same. Though paper at 6-ft they yield a 3/4" horizontal tear. A multiple yardages they stick in the target nice and straigt. So I'm kind of happy how that turned out.

I have 3 arrows cut to the "new and immproved" length ready to shoot tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Would like to catch it on slo-mo for viewing the action around the shelf.

Thanks all for the input.

I don't think many stickbow shooters need to worry about fletch changing spine compared to bare shaft.

The reason for bare shaft vs fletched is to remove stabilization effect of the fletch (which may corrupt shaft data).

And to remove rest crash by the fletch, which may corrupt shaft data,

One could have the right shaft and horrible rest setup and get bad flight.

I sure do hate the old Bear rubber weather rest. Pretty much hate any rest with an ear.

Gapped Velcro shelf shot for recurve, or if using compound fingers a cushion plunger and the old GK Huntmaster 2000.
Release...........gimme a Ripcord drop away.

The paper tear is likely still showing the sting roll from off of your fingers upon release.
Also, carbons are more critical so far as dynamic spine vs length than other shafts. As ou found, even a 1/4" in length can make a difference. Aluminum, not so much. And woods are the most forgiving.
For a hunting arrow, it is hard to beat aluminums. They are the straightest and most consistent in spine. The price is good with excellent overall arrow weight. And the variations in sizes allow you to have a wide variety of spine/weight/diameter choices. Yes they bend but it takes a lot.

Aluminums could be had in a zillion sizes and the old Easton charts were pretty damn good.
.
Pick your block and hop over one for next highest spine and it was a safe bet.

Carbons are lesser in choice size wise, and the charts laughable back a few yrs ago.

Have been shooting carbons since 2002. A dozen of so diff recurves. Only had one give me a bit of trouble (req more spine than thought ).

Durability......carbon wins.

And I have access to an Easton assembly line aluminum straightener, and know how to use one very well.

Anybody that doesnt have a good straightener ...needs to not go w aluminum IMHO. Hell, such a straightener may not even be found in shops today.

I liked the old Jim Daugherty naturals. Hell my brother in law might have some of my last Supernaturals laying around.

Paper tune has worked very well for me and has shown the same data as bare shaft. I see no difference in testing.
If its good its good and if not, its not.

I do know that not seeing a target, some folks may try to peek w papertune. Thats on them, not the paper. You either make a clean release w proper followthrough or dont.

And if you dont its gonna suck bare shaft too.

Papetune for me is at 6 ft. Seems to work pretty friggin good.

Dont understand the hate for that method.

Carbons are usually smaller than aluminums in diameter and that makes arrow rest clearance a little tougher.

Proly why drop aways became popular w wheelers.
The lack of dampening rests also makes things more picky there IMHO.

And why they proly need shot w D loop.

Progress can be a PITA at times.

And that headache might be good enough reason to just say F it and go aluminum. Proven charts, decent overall arrow weights.

Like em just fine. And for the backyard archer maybe ideal.
But shooting 3d from the compound stakes.....nope.
A belly or backline skip puts a hell of a wow in aliminum.
And no, who wants to shoot from the damn kiddie stakes?

Go bowhunter to 35 or mbr to 45. Way more fun, if running carbons

Another option, turn your cock feather in towards the riser. I've had 2 recurves I could't get good paper tears no matter what I did until I turned cock feather in. I've also switched to a bear elevated rest. Night and day difference in tuning and arrow flight.

Shot some this afternoon with cock feather in. Sure feels strange, but have to admit I don't think it made much if any difference. I've got a few freshly fletched arrows I'll shoot only cock feather in and see how it works out.

I have never tried a shelf setup (or other) cock feather in.
Never needed to.
Would seem to me best to minimize contact.

Gap my rug rest, the sideplate up and bit, and the shelf out a little........gap on either side of the crease.
I also do not cover the shelf out all the way.

So with my mostly 12 oclock top feather position, the outer is angled down, and has minimal/no contact.

But I shoot a radiused shelf bow, that doesn't have a super wide shelf.
Have shot bigger flat shelf bows just fine doing the same, w a toothpick under the velcro.

Lots of people use the Bear packaged rest and cover as much of the shelf as possible.
That works OK, after you burn clearance by lots of shooting LOL

I do not use shelf/sideplate material that offers no cushion.
Regular cheap arsed Velcro has been a stellar performer for me, for decades.

My hunting buddy uses the little self stick pads you put on the bottom or chair legs. He says they last FOREVER.

Whatever works!

You use the "hook" side or "loop" side or both?

Fuzzy on shelf and sideplate

I use those also - made of felt if I recall correctly. They are usually thicker than I like so use a razor blade to thin them down. I also use velcro but it doesn't hold up as well as the felt pads.

Sounds like a lot of trouble to cut the felt pads and all. Other than not wearing out as fast, what is the advanatage for you?

The felt pad provides a bit of cushion which help correct for paradox.
An arrow bends upon release as the back of the arrow attempts to pass the front. Because the enerhy from the bow string is forcing the arrow forward from ots resting position. Newton's laws.
The arrow naturally bend then away from.the riser and out around the bow window to varying degree as a result of the release and even a bit of roll.off of your fingers. Dynamic spine.
Arrows too stiff will show hen feather wear and may even strike the bow window upon release. You can usually hear the sound of such.

They really aren't hard to cut with a sharp razor blade - they split right down the middle, thickness wise...

Velcro, w proper bow tune, is a once a yr replace.
Damn cheap too.
Hell, you should be putting a new string on every year anyway.

Record your final settings, and it should be super easy to get 'er dialed back in the following yr with a freshen up.