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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 304
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 304 |
No need to get fancy , a chainsaw is all you need . Stick'er through the wall and plug the gaps with old underwear and get some infant size diapers . Perfect . Use old rags soaked in diesel and there's no need for kindlin . Spark 'er off !
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Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 10,840
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 10,840 |
So simple a caveman can do it. You can cook a bit on that stove in a pinch. [bleep] yeah!
FUGK CCP
It’s time to WAKE UP GOD BLESS THE USA WWG1WGA THERE ARE NO COINCIDENCES
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,389 Likes: 6
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,389 Likes: 6 |
Ghostinthemachine is your Sensei.
Hearth.com I have been a member over there for 11 years and those guys know it all. I have had 7 wood stoves over the years, I currently have a $2500 Norwegian stove that cost another $1600 to install. I know a lot about wood stoves but the gearheads on hearth.com know more than I do. Jotul, I assume? Hearth.com is great, I read it all the time but am not a member.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 14,225 Likes: 1
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 14,225 Likes: 1 |
Yes I have a Jotul Oslo 500.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,389 Likes: 6
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,389 Likes: 6 |
That's as good as it gets. Congrats, looks great.
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5,643
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5,643 |
Most stoves go straight up thru the attic. Use the proper piping! Probably save as compared to up, bend, pipe out, bend and pipe up! Unless you have and obstruction in the attic. Roof jacks are cheaper than, metalbestos elbows, and eve hangers! As said before follow the building code, even if you forego the permit!
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,643
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 2,643 |
Yup, strait out the wall , then straight up, and I always put a cleanout in that 90 outside of the wall, but ymmv! Good little stoves, practice with the right tool for lifting the top and sliding it to the side. Makes it easy to add wood, just don't want to have a few drinks and screw that move up with a loaded stove!
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Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 2,795
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 2,795 |
Most stoves go straight up thru the attic. Use the proper piping! Probably save as compared to up, bend, pipe out, bend and pipe up! Unless you have and obstruction in the attic. Roof jacks are cheaper than, metalbestos elbows, and eve hangers! As said before follow the building code, even if you forego the permit! Wabi and this guy is right. I would add to make sure you use an insulation collar in the attic and a shingle collar with vent holes under the rain ring. Installation must be perfect. A plumb bob is your friend.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,917 Likes: 2
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,917 Likes: 2 |
a laser plumbbob is SOOOOO much easier......
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 14,225 Likes: 1
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 14,225 Likes: 1 |
With that stove that you have, you can go straight out through the wall, make another 90, and go up. And as someone said put a cleanout boot in that 90 outside the house.
These hyper efficient new stoves need to go straight up and won't burn well with a couple of 90 degree bends.
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 118
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 118 |
You can go straight up through the attic if you wanted to. In my living room have black single wall to the ceiling into a junction box rated. Then 2100 degree double wall out through the attic and roof. That 2100 degree rated pipe is expensive. She draws good straight up
Out the wall works too
Plenty of pictures out there and an easy formula to let you know how high to run the pipe so it draws correctly. Sometimes the stove instruction book has the pictures
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 60,843 Likes: 10
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 60,843 Likes: 10 |
ha! I've heard of shooting a hole with a 22 for a pilot.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o "May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,856
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,856 |
You can go straight up through the attic if you wanted to. In my living room have black single wall to the ceiling into a junction box rated. Then 2100 degree double wall out through the attic and roof. That 2100 degree rated pipe is expensive. She draws good straight up
Out the wall works too
Plenty of pictures out there and an easy formula to let you know how high to run the pipe so it draws correctly. Sometimes the stove instruction book has the pictures Straight up will draft better. Consider problems(valleys) at roof penetrations. Exterior 90s will need to be replaced as they tend to rust.(out the wall install) More pipe in the house equals more heat.(vertical install) Straight up would require a transition box at the ceiling to carry the chimney weight and switch to insulated pipe in the attic.
I retired from the Johns Manville asbestos pop tart factory in ‘59, and still never made the connection.—-Slumlord
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,221 Likes: 22
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,221 Likes: 22 |
bought a wood stove, one of those classic looking rectangular models on 4 legs, takes 19" logs. I'm going to put it in my workshop but space is tight, and I also have attic space so I just can't go straight up thru the roof. I'm going to need to go out a side wall pricing is all over the place for stove pipe. I can get a 90 degree galvanized bend for $22 or I can spend some serious money. Anything I need to know before I go with the basics? Why can’t you run insulated pipe through the attic? That would be the preferred route, IMO.
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,623
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,623 |
I guess I am going to kill myself reading all of the Do not's. I built my Wood Stove. Lined the bottom with Fire Brick. Made the Bottom a Funnel so that I can clean the ash out side instead of inside to keep the ash dust down in the 300 sq. ft cabin it is in. I used a 1/2 thick plate for the top because that is what I had on hand. It has two doors on it (1) with Mesh so I can watch the Fire and (1) solid so when I want to slow the burn or want darkness I can close it . (one is mounted on one side of the stove and the other on the other side of the stove). No need to be fumbling around swapping doors. I also used 6 in. Sch 40 pipe for the first section of my flew with a Home made Damper and another 2 ft of 6 in. Sch 40 vertical pipe and then a 6 in Sch 40 90 deg. bend the horizontal smoke pipe coming off of that is an 1/8 in. rolled Black sheet steel with a solid welded seam. This pipe has a 1 in thick Ceramic Blanket thermo break an another fabricated 16 Ga. outer pipe acting like a double wall pipe going threw the wall (heat insulated with the Ceramic Blanket) out side of the cabin I have a 6 in.16 Gage Galvanized fab'ed pipe that runs into a 1/8 in. thick Fabricated 90 deg. elbow and then back to the 16 Gage Galvanized chimney all the way up to the Home fab'ed Galvanized spark arrest er that sits on top. I would Never use Galvanized pipe for a fire place inside of the building but I see no problem using it out side. You should Never have any down draft after your stove and stove pipe is heated up. So there should be no problem with the Galvanized pipe out side of the building. Maybe I am wrong and maybe I will be dead by the end of winter. Zinc Poisoning is no fun. I have had it and I know many people that have had it. You do not want it.
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Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,386 Likes: 1
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,386 Likes: 1 |
As stated, do not EVER use galvanized pipe as a chimney. The fumes it gives off will be poisonous. First you know of it is when you end up feeling like you have the flu. Hit me when I was a young guy, welding galvanized plate on a job.
Stove like that needs to be 3 feet from any combustible surface(this includes wood framing behind a wall sheathing that is noncombustible). You can cut that distance in half by installing a noncombustible shield with a 1” minimum air gap between the shield and the wall. Shield needs to be at least 1 inch off the floor and end three to four inches below the ceiling. It should extend 18 inches past the stove on both sides. If stove is in a corner, or within 3 feet of a sidewall, both walls must be shielded or have sufficient clear space from stove. Assume shop floor is concrete? If a flammable surface, more hoops to jump through.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 170
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 170 |
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,078 Likes: 1
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,078 Likes: 1 |
I’ve got an Englander 30 with a 90 degree setup like you’re talking about. I used a double wall (black non-insulated) on the inside. Doesn’t radiate as much heat as single wall, but won’t rust up and look “ugly” as quick, either.
Stainless thimble through the wall (buy a kit), then 9 feet of double wall stainless up from there. You want about 15’ of minimum “height” (above the level of the fire) for decent drafting. Look st local code for recommendations regarding the height your chimney needs to be above your roof peak/etc.
The outside stainless doublel wall pipe is about $30 a foot ($90 for a 3’ section). I had more tied up in my chimney ($600-$800 total), than in my stove.
The cabin originally had single wall pipe inside AND outside. It’s lucky they didn’t burn the thing up. The outside pipe had tons of sticky creosote in it, which forms much easier in a single wall pipe than in an insulated double wall.
They also had a stove much like yours’ in it. The stove worked ok, but because those are pretty “leaky” (lots of areas where air can come in), they won’t last more than about 3-4 hours on a load of wood. Put a damper a couple of feet above the stove, in case you have to choke it down, so the fire doesn’t get away from you (too hot).
Spend the extra $300-$400 to do the chimney right, rather than half-azzing it. It’ll last longer, and more importantly, be safer..
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,917 Likes: 2
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,917 Likes: 2 |
first section of my flew with a Home made Damper / wall pipe going threw the wall
Zinc Poisoning is no fun. no chit.... It mainly affects the ability to spell. Flue/through....
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,800
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,800 |
Ghostinthemachine is your Sensei.
Hearth.com I have been a member over there for 11 years and those guys know it all. I have had 7 wood stoves over the years, I currently have a $2500 Norwegian stove that cost another $1600 to install. I know a lot about wood stoves but the gearheads on hearth.com know more than I do. Enabler!
Carry what you’re willing to fight with - Mackay Sagebrush
Perfect is the enemy of good enough
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