Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Is there a scope for my needs?

One thing I did discover is that the scope is mounted too far forward.... makes it harder to keep my eyes on target and shoulder it.

I was in a similar situation as you. I hunt thick timber and it usually gets dark about 30 min before legal shooting times when compared to an open field. After talking to Bobby Tomek, I decided to spend the money on a SB polar 4-16x56. It has the #4 reticle and illuminated dot. Last night to I sat on my stand 20 min after legal time and watched does in my soybeans about 70 yards away with the illuminated dot on lowest setting. I could still make out horns at that time, but no rack bucks walked out. I hated spending the money, but everytime I use this scope, it never fails to impress me.

Jevrod,

Your custom Mauser is a thing of beauty and the .358 win. caliber icing on the cake.

If that were my rifle, and based on direct experience, I would choose a S&B 1.5 x 6 x 42 or Swarovski 1.5 x 6 x 42 to solve your problem. Set on 6 power, and in low light, much better setup than the Z3 in 3x9x36.

I have a S&B 8x56 I have been using the last two seasons which is outstanding in low light, but not great to use at less than 100 yards or times when I need a larger field of view. Last weekend I spent a morning hunt comparing the 8x56 and the Swaro 1.5x6x42 in low light, and while the S&B 8x56 was clearly the best, the Swaro was certainly very useable and more flexible hunting scope.

try a zeiss v4 3-12x56 with #60 ret,my fav ret out there,or a meopta meostar 3-12x56 with 4c or 4k ret of your choice.i prefer the 4k as meopta's 4c dot is a touch too big for my taste.
Big Ed

If you want a dedicated evening scope a S&B Classic 3-12x50 with the L3 reticle is all you need even if your state hunting times don't end 1/2 hour after sunset.

The thing I am struggling with is I am afraid that large an objective will look like crap on that rifle....oh well, function over looks but...

Good point. I'd go ahead and buy a new rifle too.

yep bro there ain't no free lunch. thats why all the euro "twilight" scopes are 56mm. to let more light in. i'd personally rather see 5 min longer and kill a monsta buck vs admiring my svelte rifle while on stand.....................personally.
Big Ed

+100

GReat tool for the job or point of pride(look at me, look at me, look at me)? Pick!

It will look fine, will look better then the Z3 it will replace.

A moving target that's essentially backlit is pretty tough to pick up. Yes, 6x would've focused more of the light upon your eye and still given you a 6MM exit pupil but it also reduces your FOV. The scope being too far forward is an issue as well. If you've chosen a "landmark" and your quarry passes it before you pick it up in the scope, it's much more difficult to hunt down your target with the scope so you're back to the binos again. After you get the scope in it's proper place, you might try some practice picking up moving targets of some sort during the off-season.

Did you try to stop the deer?

Should have but nope. Thought about it later but happened too fast. A simple grunt may have kept him interested enough to hang around a bit. Oh well, not mad. At least my brother was able to shoot it! Here is a pic of the buck..

Good advice, Thanks!

So took the scope out this eve and played with it. First I moved it back about an inch...no longer climbing the stock. Second, 5x seems to be the sweet spot as far as forgiving eye box. Also in seeing detail at dusk, 5x beat 3x. Third, my focus eyepiece was not quite focused totally right, focusing it made a sharper image. With all that, maybe it was more my fault than the scope!

That's what I said.

And that's why I tried it! Thanks for the info

Here is my 4-16x56 Polar on my Tikka T3 .308. You tend to not worry about what it looks like and rather HOW it works. For me, it's really balanced and handles well.

Use what works - for you and how you use it.

Good hunting.