Get a Lyman reloading manual and go from there. It is the most complete reloading manual. Different bullets, different powders shown for each caliber. Front of book tells you how to do things and get started.
I just found this video looking for something else, and thought of this thread. It is how I have removed the military primer crimp for years, Except I have the drill mounted horizontal, the cutting tool off the bench and over an elevated bucket to catch the brass trimmings. Also, I now use a Hornady primer pocket reamer, but the setup is the same
Properly executed in two steps the case is sized on the up stroke and the neck expanded in same fashion. Do not use a full stroke with the expander. Just enough to pass through then withdraw. Doing so minimizes case distortion the asymmetric forces associated with the shell holder geometry cause.
I'm sure that works fine. But I've found that lubing the inside of the neck of a case greatly reduces the drag as it's pulled back over the expander. I usually scratch the case against the lube pad every 5 or 6 cases to scoop a little dab of case lube into the neck. One application of lube to the inside of the case neck will deposit enough lube on the expander to keep it slick for 5 or 6 cases and prevents the case from stretching as much as it's pulled over the expander.
All well and good B but removing the expander ball on resizing the case eliminates the possibility of canting the neck (the bullets steering wheel) as on the way out (as normal operation one pass sizing ), very possible to do as the press is at the top of its stroke and press tolerance could cause a canted neck. By just expanding in a separate operation the expander ball sizes on the down stroke and only needs to just pass through the neck . A dial indicated run out gauge lets you know if your equipment needs this or not. This and consistent neck thickness can make a significant difference .
If you are scratching the mouth of a few cases across the pad to get lube on the expander ball is the lube getting on the ball? the ball will not touch the case on entry but will on exit in normal one step sizing and may not get on the top (leading edge ) of the ball at all.
wow.42 years.lets say there are a few.from my uncle to some of the top benchrest shooters.all i know is it is relaxing and when shooting with top components in quality builds extremely rewarding with accuracy.
Reloading doesn't save you any money. You spend way more on ammo than people who don't reload but you shoot a lot more. Ann Armstrong, the older lady that ran the Reloading Center in Burley told me that when I was 11 and bought my Lee load all shot shell loader from her.
She was right I have tens of thousands of dollars in reloading equipment and supplies. My brother that doesn't load probably spends $200/year on ammo. He might buy a box or two of rifle ammo, a brick of 22, and a case of steel shot because he duck hunts a lot. His 2 boxes of rifle ammo might last him 3 years. He shoots a few before the hunt to make sure he's on and maybe 1 or 2 rounds hunting. I should clarify that $200 was at the old prices.
Good thread. Several good tips. I might have to buy a handful of those Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges.
I started reloading (in the '70's) when most of us relied on pressure indicators like flattened primers and ejector marks on the case head. It scares me to think of some of the loads I used to shoot in my 308 and 25-06 that were wayyyy too hot. The chronograph is probably the best pressure indicator available to the majority of us. I like primer pockets to remain tight after multiple loadings.
ttpoz
in silvam ne ligna feras (don't carry logs into the forest)
Good thread. Several good tips. I might have to buy a handful of those Sinclair Chamber Length Gauges.
I started reloading (in the '70's) when most of us relied on pressure indicators like flattened primers and ejector marks on the case head. It scares me to think of some of the loads I used to shoot in my 308 and 25-06 that were wayyyy too hot. The chronograph is probably the best pressure indicator available to the majority of us. I like primer pockets to remain tight after multiple loadings.
Yes, finding the chamber length can save a lot of time and cost. I'll bet most folks trimming .223 for their own rifles would never need to trim at all.
Your reloading bench can't have enough light. Start loading at the low end of the recipe, work your way up - shoot the same way and pay attention to your firearm before moving up the power scale.
