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If anything, this thread has encouraged me to study up on points of inspection for wear and breakage... Oh, and knowledgeable guys range from Goodguys to dicks, per Campfire usual. LOL.


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Originally Posted by shootem
Originally Posted by antelope_sniper
Originally Posted by shootem
So what parts on a full BCA upper are the biggest kink in reliability? Everything? BCG? Hand guard? If you had one and wanted to make it reliable to your standards would that be possible?


Shoot,

The most frequent issues I've seen, and seen reported, revolve around the most important parts, the barrel and bolt, specifically improperly cut chambers, rough chambers, bad head spacing, and improper heat treating of the bolts.

This is why BCA's the most debated brand on the internet. Some people get lucky and have no issues with these major parts. A large percentage don't shoot 'em enough to realize they have problems. Those who do have problems, and properly diagnose them are into them for a new barrel, BCG components, or both, hence, Tyrone's numbers above.

I have a Midway "Stoner" upper (it's complete blasphemous to put his name on this collection of parts), that's rumored to be made buy, or at least contain parts from BCA. The BGC looks identical to the BCA one's I've seen. It's a 16" barrel with carbine gas, so I wasn't surprised when it was over gassed out of the gate. For the first 100 rounds it seemed fine, but I don't think it made it past 200 before it it started have ejection and extraction issues. The extractor tears the rim off the case, so it's not a small issue, probably barrel related, and give me a good excuse to replace the barrel with something from Criterion. The bolt is still within spec, but it hasn't seen 500 rounds yet, and with the current ammo situation, I'll spend my primers in better ways. This barrel will join an Anderson barrel in the Bin of Shame.

But I know the risks when I bought it. As I recall it was a really good sale which made for a reasonable risk/reward ratio, but after subtracting out the price of the bad barrel, and assuming the BCG doesn't disappoint, I will still have over paid for the usable parts, but I'll get that back in experience (or at least that's what I'm going to tell myself. wink )


I'm asking because I have a dog in the fight. Just bought a pistol upper with carbine gas system from them. Side charging. Never had an AR before. Pinned it to an Aero Precision full lower and everything's tight but that's just what I can see. Since it's a side charger I'm not sure how easy it'll be to upgrade the BCG but I'm asking out of ignorance. If there's a reasonable way to preempt a bolt issue I'd be interested. Really like the side charging concept, biggest reason I went BCA. Barrel shouldn't be much trouble or overly expensive. But not being familiar, how do I begin to recognize over gassing before case rims start tearing? 20 foot ejection distance? If I go to another barrel should I look at adjustable gassing? And a new barrel is possible because I really wanted a 12 or 12 1/2" rather than the 10 1/2" I got.


Shoot,

Most of the significant BCG issues seem to be with the bolt itself. Like many manufacturers, BCA bolts are made of 9310 and NOT Carpenter 158. Although on paper 9310 is a good material, it's not near as forgiving on the heat treatment process. Under treat them and the bolts with be soft and stretchy. Over treat them and they become brittle and crack. It's likely radical has similar issues, or maybe even used BCA bolts, hence the sub-200 round count snapped bolts that Blue witnessed. The best thing you can do is tear them apart every couple hundred rounds, or every time you clean your rifle and check the bolt for cracks and egging. Check your pivot pin for unusual and premature wear patterns. Check hole fit to insure it's tight an has no unusual movement. Check the pivot pin hole with your calipers to insure it remains round and uniform.

As for gassing, mine has a 16" barrel and carbine length gas. The vast majority of uppers so configured, especially from low end manufacturers, are over gassed from the factory. Now since your is a pistol upper and your dwell time will be significantly shorter, it's less likely you'll have a similar issue. Of course, if BCA over drilled the gas port "to make it run better", it's still possible.

As for diagnosis, watch your ejection. A properly gassed gun with a properly functioning extractor and ejector should throw the brass at 4 o'clock. If it's throwing it forward of that, something suboptimal. The typical solution is more spring, and/or more weight. I like to run with a Sprinco co. Blue spring, and an H1 buffer, so a little more spring, and a little more weight. On average this works well, but is not required or any of my carbine length pistol builds, so you may be fine. After you've been building AR for a while, you tend to keep different buffer weights and springs on hand for tuning. Another solution for an over gassed upper is an adjustable gas block, but I'm not going to throw that kind of money at this upper.

But your first step is to shoot it and see what happens. You might be one of the lucky one and everything may function flawlessly for your purposes. If not, come back and post about it. There will be plenty of advise waiting.


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Thanks sniper et al. I’m being educated. While I still have a few flat rifles left I may go ahead with a bolt exchange depending on availability and maybe carrier assy too. Will be looking at barrels to educate myself on something besides Mauser offshoots. Don’t know enough yet to say if gas tubes and assembly hardware should be tied in at this time. When/if I start replacements I’ll start a Help! Thread. This pistol is to be a fun shooter but also a travel concealed carry pistol. If I ever use it things will be really bad with no room for mistakes. Who knows where things are headed. In Daddy’s time a good 6 shot Smith was being well armed. Today it wouldn’t surprise me to hear of someone required to expend multiple AR mags in defense of self and family.


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$475 plus Magpul hand guards and a $150 BCG.

$650ish? Send me a stamped envelope and I’ll give you a charging handle.

https://www.rooftopdefense.com/prod...ter-kit-16-midlength-fsb-upper-receiver/


Originally Posted by SBTCO
your flippant remarks which you so adeptly sling
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I'll throw in a flash hider!


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Originally Posted by plainsman456
So far the only thing to break is on one rifle had a gas key screw shear.

If they are taken care of as all tools should be they work when they are needed.


Was it not taken care of before the gas key broke in half?


Originally Posted by SBTCO
your flippant remarks which you so adeptly sling
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Friend needs recommendations for a 5.56 10.5-12" pistol build. He has a stripped lower, says cheap, LOL


Go!




Seen prices for a Ruger AR-556 pistol! Mine was $580 iirc! Now $300 more a year later. Oh for phucqk's sake Ruger, it's got a 9130 bolt!

My PSA EPT moe Shockwave full kit was $380 4/28/20. The upper alone is $450 now.

Last edited by MtnBoomer; 12/15/20. Reason: Edit

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Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
Originally Posted by plainsman456
So far the only thing to break is on one rifle had a gas key screw shear.

If they are taken care of as all tools should be they work when they are needed.


Was it not taken care of before the gas key broke in half?


Yer wastin' yer keyboard's breath, Blue.....................just sayin'.

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Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
Originally Posted by plainsman456
So far the only thing to break is on one rifle had a gas key screw shear.

If they are taken care of as all tools should be they work when they are needed.


Was it not taken care of before the gas key broke in half?


Yer wastin' yer keyboard's breath, Blue.....................just sayin'.

MM


There are Snap On tools and Chin’s tool emporium, you pick...

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Thing is, he did pick, and indicated the failure experienced was ok for his investment, or some such and such.

smile


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Never said they were the best nor did i say they will last forever.

This rifle that had the screw shear had about 8000 rounds with a suppressor on it.

Some were shot at targets but most were shot at pigs and coyotes.

It is still in service today and has not missed a beat.

All companies produce rifles that have problems and maybe this one was one.

If folks don't want to buy one of these and have the funds to buy the others good on them.

I am working on a Palmetto Arms rifle that won't shoot more than 7 or 8 times before just denting the primer.

Makes no difference 223 or 556 ammo.

Mags makes no difference as well.

Is this 11 inch rifle a dud?

We will see if it can be made to run with the big dogs. whistle

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Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
$475 plus Magpul hand guards and a $150 BCG.

$650ish? Send me a stamped envelope and I’ll give you a charging handle.

https://www.rooftopdefense.com/prod...ter-kit-16-midlength-fsb-upper-receiver/



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The majority of 8,000 rounds were on game?

Glad to see your reckoning is consistent across all of your internet conversations.


Originally Posted by SBTCO
your flippant remarks which you so adeptly sling
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Originally Posted by plainsman456

This rifle that had the screw shear had about 8000 rounds with a suppressor on it.

Some were shot at targets but most were shot at pigs and coyotes.



Well, sir, that is one big schitt pile of hogs & coyotes, then, just sayin'.

But on the truthful side of the equation, I guess I'd also say that if the gun truly has that many suppressed rounds through it, that gas key screw failure might not be unrealistic.

But on the other hand, most companies do not install gas keys & screws the right way anyway, even if the screw was to spec.

So who really knows.

MM



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The population in Goodenoughville is growing at an alarming rate.

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Originally Posted by Bluedreaux
The majority of 8,000 rounds were on game?

Glad to see your reckoning is consistent across all of your internet conversations.

I couldn't even afford the ammo.

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Originally Posted by TWR
The population in Goodenoughville is growing at an alarming rate.


How's the view up there from your high horse? Not everyone needs or even wants a $2000 AR. For me its a piss poor waste of money and I'd much rather spend that money on a nice double shotgun or bolt rifle. Surely one can piece together or buy a reliable AR for under $1k even in these times.



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So, six or eight months from now what GOOD parts are going to be the hardest to find?

Cumbaya...


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Originally Posted by UNCCGrad
Originally Posted by TWR
The population in Goodenoughville is growing at an alarming rate.


How's the view up there from your high horse? Not everyone needs or even wants a $2000 AR. For me its a piss poor waste of money and I'd much rather spend that money on a nice double shotgun or bolt rifle. Surely one can piece together or buy a reliable AR for under $1k even in these times.

Who said anything about a $2000 AR. A $900-1200 one should do just fine. Do you own any RARs, Axis or XPR rifles?

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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
So, six or eight months from now what GOOD parts are going to be the hardest to find?

Cumbaya...


If we get screwed on braces, it will be light weight barrels 14.5" (for those who like pinned and welded) and 16" and over.

Last edited by antelope_sniper; 12/15/20.

You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

You cannot over estimate the unimportance of nearly everything. John Maxwell
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