ok. I will put it on the concrete floor in the garage w/ several runners and weight on top for a few a few months - or as long as it takes me to begin the project. But I draw the line at fat chicks. [/quote]
Just don't put it directly on the concrete. Put down some stickers to keep it off the floor.
Just don't put it directly on the concrete. Put down some stickers to keep it off the floor.
I was planning on using several runners between the slab and concrete.
Last edited by High_Noon; 04/06/20.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
I still haven't made it up to OR to pick up the slabs, what with all this ridiculous Kung Flu crap, but I have another question for another project:
What is a good type of planer to use on edges, i.e. the edges of a red oak plank .75" thick. I guess the old Stanley planers are some of the best.
Also, can anyone recommend a plane blade sharpening jig that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? While I was in Big D, I was working on a project for my folks that required a ~ 1" - 1.5" wood chisel and Dad's chisels are all beat to hell, so I had to sharpen one by hand. I started with "0" grit, b/c the edge was pretty beat up and the bevel was concave for some reason. I worked my way up to 1500 wet on a slab of glass, but it was all hand sharpening, which took well over an hour. I did a respectable job as it was shaving sharp, but it certainly could have been easier and faster with a jig of some sort. Near wore my thumb clean off trying to hold the angle steady.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
For a "one off" project, I will stick with my original suggestion. Find a cabinet shop. Have them run in through their power drum sander(s) until suitably flat and smooth. Will be MUCH easier and less cost to boot...
I still haven't made it up to OR to pick up the slabs, what with all this ridiculous Kung Flu crap, but I have another question for another project:
What is a good type of planer to use on edges, i.e. the edges of a red oak plank .75" thick. I guess the old Stanley planers are some of the best.
Also, can anyone recommend a plane blade sharpening jig that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? While I was in Big D, I was working on a project for my folks that required a ~ 1" - 1.5" wood chisel and Dad's chisels are all beat to hell, so I had to sharpen one by hand. I started with "0" grit, b/c the edge was pretty beat up and the bevel was concave for some reason. I worked my way up to 1500 wet on a slab of glass, but it was all hand sharpening, which took well over an hour. I did a respectable job as it was shaving sharp, but it certainly could have been easier and faster with a jig of some sort. Near wore my thumb clean off trying to hold the angle steady.
Jointer.
Paul
"I'd rather see a sermon than hear a sermon".... D.A.D.
Trump Won!, Sandmann Won!, Rittenhouse Won!, Suck it Liberal Fuuktards.
I still haven't made it up to OR to pick up the slabs, what with all this ridiculous Kung Flu crap, but I have another question for another project:
What is a good type of planer to use on edges, i.e. the edges of a red oak plank .75" thick. I guess the old Stanley planers are some of the best.
Also, can anyone recommend a plane blade sharpening jig that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? While I was in Big D, I was working on a project for my folks that required a ~ 1" - 1.5" wood chisel and Dad's chisels are all beat to hell, so I had to sharpen one by hand. I started with "0" grit, b/c the edge was pretty beat up and the bevel was concave for some reason. I worked my way up to 1500 wet on a slab of glass, but it was all hand sharpening, which took well over an hour. I did a respectable job as it was shaving sharp, but it certainly could have been easier and faster with a jig of some sort. Near wore my thumb clean off trying to hold the angle steady.
High Noon, If you were going to come through Wyoming a friend of mine has a planer that would do that job for ya.
That Veritas guide is good to go if you don't want to freehand. However, if you're not making a hobby of this pick up an Eclipse knock off for about $15, it'll get you where you need to go.
Figured maple requires a VERY sharp blade to avoid tear out if using a planer- hand or powered... I use a number of different planes on my wood projects but a good Stanley #7 and a Smoothing or Jointer plane would do what you want to do... For doing edges, especially on figured wood, I use a Stanley low angle block plane to start with and decide which of my planes will work best for the finish work.... I have a pretty good collection of planes that I use regularly ...
If you are going to continue doing projects like this it will be worthwhile to invest in some Japanese waterstones for sharpening them and a Veritas angle tool or something similar to get them really sharp. With the Veritas, you start at one angle to get the bevel formed on several different grits, then you turn a knob and add a few degrees to the bevel tool to create the secondary bevel (edge). With the good King stones or equal quality stones, your edge will look like a mirror when you get done and be shaving sharp...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
What I’m looking for now is a recommendation on the type of plane used for dressing the edge of a red oak board, ~ ¾” thick. My knowledge regarding different plane types and their specific usage is limited. For example, I understand that there are bevel up and bevel down planes, knuckle planes, edge trimmers, low-angle bock planes, thumb planes, jack planes, roughing, flattening and smoothing planes, etc., but I am not sure what type of plane I should find for my intended usage. Perhaps a Stanley 60 ½ would be a good choice.
hookeye: Thanks.
Rem141r: Yes, I have considered several power planes but it will be awhile until I’m able to make it up to OR, so I don’t really need one at the moment. Shipping is cost-prohibitive anyway.
Wabi: slabs have been air-dried for several years, but my latest inquiry is does not involve the big slabs. I’m looking for advice on a smaller plane I can use for dressing the edges of boards, & sharpening jig recommendations.
Orion2000: ditto
bryon: Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind.
kingston: Thanks. The 220 might be just the thing I need. & the Veritas guide looks good.
hillestadj: Thanks, looks good as well.
Kellywk: Thanks. That jig looks good.
Sheister: Your low-angle block plane recommendation is what I determined I probably need, hence my Stanley 60 ½ idea. I do have a good collection of stones, but I have been meaning to find a few Jap water stones. I have looked at the King stones. Thanks.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
So, right now, it's between a Stanley 60 ½ or a 220. Gotta' figure out which one would be best.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
I rigged up something similar to this but not as nice when I made a "farm house table" a few years ago. I'm not a real wood worker and it got way better results than I could have with hand tools.....
"Men must be governed by God or they will be ruled by tyrants". --- William Penn
