Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Remington 700 Bolt doesnt cam or time properly

Dan has done a 1/2 dozen Rem 700 bolts for me, all of different vintages, the worst ones being the newer ones. Two of the RR prefixed ones I sent were just like yours--they did not extract *at all.* They all work perfectly now. It's a no brainer to send it to him. Pull the firing pin assembly (prob have to buy the tool to do this), measure the gap with a feeler gauge as per his instructions (not hard), and send it to him USPS.

Your bolt will come back 2 weeks later extracting perfectly.

I have also had gunsmiths do the same work who demanded I send the action along with the bolt. I did this; the result was identical to Dan's work. So now I just use Dan.

Hello 35 West.
I don't have the tool to pull the firing pin assembly and I didn't measure the gap. I assumed he had a jig for this. I guess I need to rethink this. I can maybe run to Brownells tomorrow afternoon if they list the tool in stock.

kwg

If you have a string and a coin you can remove the FP assembly. It’s easy to get the measurements with feeler gauges.

https://youtu.be/VVacK49mjDc

RH f/pin assy removal-
Remove bolt from receiver.
Hold bolt body in left hand w/ handle facing to 9 o'clock.

Place the shank of an 1/8" inch pocket screw driver to aft hook of the striker.

Hold the screw driver w/ index & middle to use thumb to slightly cock f/pin assy while rotating f/pin ccw to jump striker over pin/striker cocking cam surface in aft end of bolt body

repeat above 4 360 degree ccwise revolutions.
5th rotation f/pin assy will be removed from bolt body
(pin assy is captive....no loose flying objects)

F/Pin Installation-
Thread f/pin assy into aft end of bolt body 1 turn.
Reverse the above operation for 4 more 360 degree clock wiserevolutions.
Ensure finger of cocking piece is in detent/radius @ 12o'clock position 180degree from your hand held position.

Done

Time involved to remove & reinstall....15 seconds.

Thanks 805. That makes it simple.

kwg

Thanks Dan.

kwg

Very true. Until you’ve experienced both poorly and properly timed, it’s impossible to know.

Easiest way to get the firing pin assembly out is just hook it in your shoe lace and unscrew

Dan40X
I put 2 bolts (with the firing pins removed) in the mail today. I measured the gap and the numbers are taped to each bolt.

kwg

The G codes are the worst in my experience. I have one when it was new when the bolt handle was opened all the way the handle was hitting the edge of the receiver, just barely. A small flat file with fine teeth to just "break" the sharp edge on the receiver gave it enough clearance though. The edges on the G models are much sharper than my A, B or C prefixes. The cro-moly actions were buffed less and less in each successive era. The RR's are better.

I found the opposite. The gap on the G code was smaller than the gap on the RR. Of course, we are only talking in thousands.

kwg

alpionecrick & kwg020,

FYI-
The bolt handles from 2006(G prefix) to present(RR prefix) serial numbered receivers are identical.
Short "CAM" as I've coined them.

The largest variable is the length of the bolt body "TUBE"in the equation.