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Originally Posted by 79S
Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by 79S
Rule of thumb in the 2 in, 1 out seat bullet further out. I would seat that 101 lrx out in .005 increments. I almost guarantee you, you will bring that 3rd bullet in with the other two. How far off the lands are you with that 101 lrx?


So you seat closer to the rifling when you have two close and one out some?


I do especially with rifles with a bunch of freebore. My model 70 in a 375 H&H is one. I have buddies who will increase the powder charge to tighten up the group. The 6.5 Swede I have is another with a ton of freebore. I’m probably doing it wrong but it’s worked for me so far.

John, you may have it backwards buddy. I've heard you say seat them further from the lands. That is the general rule of thumb. However, I bet that is not the issue with this rifle. GSSP is a pretty good hand loader. I'd bet he's tried a lot of the trick moves already, that's the reason he's asking us.... Deep down, he knows what he really needs to do..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.

Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.
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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by 79S
Originally Posted by beretzs
Originally Posted by 79S
Rule of thumb in the 2 in, 1 out seat bullet further out. I would seat that 101 lrx out in .005 increments. I almost guarantee you, you will bring that 3rd bullet in with the other two. How far off the lands are you with that 101 lrx?


So you seat closer to the rifling when you have two close and one out some?


I do especially with rifles with a bunch of freebore. My model 70 in a 375 H&H is one. I have buddies who will increase the powder charge to tighten up the group. The 6.5 Swede I have is another with a ton of freebore. I’m probably doing it wrong but it’s worked for me so far.

John, you may have it backwards buddy. I've heard you say seat them further from the lands. That is the general rule of thumb. However, I bet that is not the issue with this rifle. GSSP is a pretty good hand loader. I'd bet he's tried a lot of the trick moves already, that's the reason he's asking us.... Deep down, he knows what he really needs to do..


I probably do, with cup and core I start off close to the lands.005-.010 i for the most part get a triangle group so I usually end up seating deeper (That’s what she said) because I can’t go further out. Only time I had 2 in 1 out was with mono bullets. Which I very rarely mess with. So that’s why I’m probably all kinds of ph ucked up. But I know switching primers can bring that straggler in as well. Or upping the charge by few tenths of a grain.


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.
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I've followed this thread all the way through so will add my $0.02. We have some givens here: 1. The rifle is a beautifully crafted rifle. I seriously doubt that a builder gets that far along in the trade without knowing how to build a rifle that shoots as good as it looks. 2. The OP is known to several here as a serious competitive shooter and, as well, works for Barnes which doesn't guarantee, but would strongly suggest, that he is pretty much immersed in the world of shooting/accuracy and rifles in general. 3. The preceding facts almost guarantee that there's a problem that's not going to be one of the common and very obvious problems that keep a rifle from shooting well. I strongly suspect that somewhere in the barrel-making process, something untoward happened that induced internal stresses in the barrel so that, as a couple of shots warm it up, it starts to distort. I have a rifle that demonstrates the same problem. It will put the first two on top of each other and, after that, the shots start walking off and spreading out, same direction every time. It's a production rifle, not on the same planet with the OP's rifle. What makes me pretty certain that, in the case of my rifle, it's induced stresses, is the fact that, under the forearm there is an area of about 60 degrees width and 3" of length that faintly shows what I clearly recognize as centerless grinding chatter. I'm sure the manufacturer used centerless grinding to put the final finish on the barrel before bluing. Someone goofed but the only (visible) damage was the very faint chatter marks so the barrel was sent on to the final operations, blued, and put on the rifle. I suspect that, somewhere in the barrel manufacturing process, stresses were induced. It could have been some small, seemingly insignificant glitch in any one of the machining operations that did no apparent harm and left no apparent mark that couldn't have been eliminated in subsequent finishing operations. I suspect that this is often the reason behind rifles that experienced shooters just can't seem to get to shoot.

If I were the OP, I would look for a synthetic stock that I could drop the barreled action into without much fuss, bother or expense, make sure the barrel is free-floated, and see what happens. If there is indeed thermal-induced distortion from internal stresses in the barrel, it will show. It probably won't be of the magnitude or in the same direction as when a tight bedding job is in the mix, but it will be there. Another thought is, if the OP, through his employment, has access to a shooting facility and a CNC coordinate measuring machine in close proximity to each other, he could set the barreled action up in the CMM, program it to check the straighness of the barrel, run it once at ambient temperature, shoot it a little to warm it up, then run it back to the CMM and run the program again to check for any distortion.

Just my thoughts on the matter.



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I think it’s time to admit that rifle needs a limbsaver barrel donut

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Originally Posted by Petro
I think it’s time to admit that rifle needs a limbsaver barrel donut


I neded a laugh today!

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So, I don't drink regular milk any longer so I asked my son to save me his next empty plastic gallon milk jug to use the plastic under the action where the action screws go to give a little clearance between metal and wood.

Yes, I do work at Barnes Bullets in the Ballistic Lab and Consumer Services. I've been reloading and casting lead bullets since 1966. Still learning too!

BSA, thank you for the assist!

Alan

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A little plastic bread tab will work well, too.

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Yeah, saw a recent post on the 127 IIRC, on a Group page the other day and read you are at the lab, congrats. Btw, didn't Rem buy them?

On the topic - I always prefer an accurate grouping rifle, but also am confident if the 1st round CONSISTENTLY hits to POA, for a hunting rifle. As most probably would agree, the first opportunity is often your best, after you let the first fly you are often watching an animal run.....no doubt things happen so it's nice to have a 2nd or 3rd you can count on. That said, with your skill...........I would not sweat a rifle that starts walking after the 2nd shot.

Made some of my best shots afield with Ruger #1s and TC Contender handguns when I was younger. Now one of those Rugers happened to be a 6BR, and I shot a sub 1/2" group for 3 shots one morning.,,,, at 330 yds. Now my longest deer kill at 400 yds only needed one shot.....though that buck dropped seconds after a Doe dropped at 200.............so I did get off 2 rounds that day smile

Use and enjoy the Bob.

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Remington owned Barnes Bullets until 14 months ago. Through Remington's bankruptcy Barnes Bullets and the other companies under the Remington umbrella were auctioned off. We are now owned by Clarus. A Salt Lake City company who also owns Sierra Bullets. It's been an awesome thing for us. We are making more bullet and ammo than ever. We have workers in the building 24/7 making bullets and ammo. Folks are getting lots of overtime, let me tell you.

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For Loonies like us, your dream job........Lol.

Congrats, I know they are glad to have you Alan.

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Such a beautiful rifle pard! Have you considered having it Cryo Treated? $100 at "300 Below" isn't much of a financial gamble, and sure wont hurt it. I had my little Kimber 84L Classic .270 done and it is a Gem now. Just asking? I myself would also be very reluctant to have "just anybody" mess with that beautiful bedding! smile I will add that I have always had good results with the stress relieving benefit, I never worried about whether the rifle didn't foul as much as before freezing.

Last edited by Jim_Knight; 12/08/21.
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Originally Posted by Jim_Knight
Such a beautiful rifle pard! Have you considered having it Cryo Treated? $100 at "300 Below" isn't much of a financial gamble, and sure wont hurt it. I had my little Kimber 84L Classic .270 done and it is a Gem now. Just asking? I myself would also be very reluctant to have "just anybody" mess with that beautiful bedding! smile I will add that I have always had good results with the stress relieving benefit, I never worried about whether the rifle didn't foul as much as before freezing.


Jim,

Will certainly keep it in mind. Thank you for the info.

Alan

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I think you will be pleased with the results sir, just send in the barreled action (they will tell you how/where to send it) to 300 Below. About a month or less later, back in your sweaty, loving hands my friend! ha Good luck to you Pard. My gun savvy Uncle who passed when I was 16, always told me the .257 Roberts was "perfect". ha Being a Looney, I have only owned a few, had one reamed to the Ackley and then had to go on and experiment with the 25-06, 257 wby. I never ,ever , killed anything with them I could not have with my very first 257 Bob! Ain't it great? lol

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