Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Spray Foam Insulation on Metal Building (or others)

I got back from WV late last night on spray foaming. 

40 Degrees and warmer. 30' x 48' x 12' buildings (each) including ceilings at $1.50 per SF (that is CONTRACTOR PRICE... $5,200 per building... expect to pay more as a NON-Contractor .

A total badass solution.

Closed Cell Spray Foam 1" thick R-7 insulation value VERY STRUCTURAL

Please ask me questions anyone... If you have them...

Video and pics









After... the work... zipped up to "Mama Bear" (2022 summer cabin build... HOPEFULLY!)

How long did it take? As in how many hours to spray the building.

Top building... 5 hours... rolling scaffolding on a smooth concrete slab.

2nd pic... 6.5 hours VERY ROUGH DIRT floor with rocks... building has 2' riser footing... lots of my crap lumber in the way.

Is that floor square footage or inside surface square footage? I have a 25x28’ steel building in the quanset corrugated style. I would like to have it insulated for condensation issues more than anything.
Like this;
https://www.steelmasterusa.com/quonset-huts/models/a-models/

I wish my whole friggin house was spray foamed

Awesome

I assume it’s FR. Is that a finished surface or will/should it get paint?

That’s really great stuff. Wish I could’ve afforded to do my 40x50 shop with the closed cell foam.

Is your arr tired? R7 and only 1" think. That's good. When that dries how much does it weigh compared to fiberglass insulation?

Spray foam is great but can be expensive.

For those who can't do it all at once, Rockwool is great. Adding it a bit at a time and it's amazing how quiet it is. The soundproofing qualities are superb.

Per SF of foam applied. Basic math on mine.

Walls 48 + 48 + 30 + 30 x 12' tall = 1,720 SF

PLUS

30 x 48 roof (add 5% because of 3/12 pitch) = 1,512 SF

Plus add gable SF

3,465 SF x $1.5 = $5,200 +/-. I am satisfied.

The 29 gauge sheet metal is NOT a good product, but with an inch of closed cell... it is VERY VERY TOUGH... no wind rattle. R7 insulation. Structural integrity is 25% increase (not done the math yet so just a guess).

The cost delta from 29 gauge to 26 gauge is almost the cost of the foam.

Each building turn-key (slab/footing, double certified build construction and foam about $29k... That is around $20 per SF).

In 2022 you can't build a doghouse at $20 SF.

What if you have tyvek binder the tin?

Specs... https://www.carlislesfi.com/products/closed-cell-closed-cell/

Foam in a can from HD is Open Cell. It is cheaper and goes on thicker and faster. It weighs almost nothing.

Closed sell is basically 2 part "Gorilla Glue"... kinda the density of Salt Water Taffy (not quite... maybe half that dense, but I was trying to think of a metaphor).

I brought back samples of each (Open and Closed). If you step on 3" of Open it will go flat 95%+. 3" Closed cell does not collapse at all under my body weight.

This would do the exact same thing as Tyvek but better... plus insulation.

If you question is could you OVER SPRAY the Tyvek... I would think yes, but it would be a very bad idea (i.e. bonding straight to the metal would be WAY BETTER IMHO). Cut out the Tyvek?

I am going to some real world testing with fire and chemicals etc. I have samples.

As for finish... I may run high hat furring strips (R-13 batt under) and drywall in certain areas, OSB or 5' x 5' Russian Plywood in certain other areas. I did buy 200' linear feet of pallet racking last month... 12' tall... so the short answer is a combo on uses of three of these buildings...

$2,500 on the pallet racking, beams and shelves. $12.50 per liner foot for three shelf fork lift rated Home Depot pallet racking. A pretty good deal. It will be attached to the building's framing. Lateral load is well over Cat 5 Hurricance (i.e. 250 mph winds +/-).

I did an inch of spray home in my house when I built it about 4 years ago. It really tied tge framing and sheeting together. I also sprayed the joist ends and inside of the rimboards and the truss ends on my raised heel energy trusses.

I was told I could have gone a full 6" of spray foam in the walls but I was warned it doesn't cure as well when thick and could potentially off gas if thick. I just did 1" and then 5"s of wet set cellulose over the top.

My home is 5200 square feet and doesn't feel drafty and seems easy to heat. I has worried my heating guy put in too small of furnace but it has been fine even when 20 below zero. Our gas bill used to never go over $100/ month even in the winter and we cook with gas and have 2 gas water heaters and a gas fireplace that always has a huge pilot light burning.

I do have a pretty efficient variable speed gas furnace but I think the spare foam really helped our efficiency and ID use it again. My last home was 3900 Sq ft and my gad bills were about double the new one because it had real basic cellulose only insulation.

Bb

Everything I read, spray foam insulation is the way to go for metal buildings.

One little tip. If your building has been subject to a period of use, like cold diesel engine start ups and welding smoke, then you got it foamed a year or two later...the foam will not adhere like it should and will start falling off within a year or two. Washing it and degreasing would have solved that if I had known.

No you don't. I would be concerned about off gases from the product. I would use rock wool in the walls and spray foam in the attic. I would also have an air to air exchanger(s) for the house.

Spray foam is great--it's even better if covered with something--especially the lower 4-8 ft. Foam does deteriorate over time and becomes brittle, and anything that touches it will make it "shed" bits of foam. Keeping it covered prolongs its life.